Larry,
We have a Mitsu 62525 with the lamp abnormality issue. We managed to take off the back panels but are perplexed on how to get to the dm board. We believe that the board is behind a metal case that has some jacks. We unscrewed all the logical screws but the case will not budge. How do we get to the dm board. We have a service manual but it is not clear on this issue.
Well, we managed to get the chassis out and found 2 caps (3300's)on the pwr bd shot. We are trying to get to the dm board. Any tricks out there? We are attempting to separate the cases to get to the dm board but there lots of wire harnesses in the way. Any idea of the values on the caps on the dm bd that typically go?
I have a question. I recently received the green light of death, so after reading the posts deceided to remove the boards and replace the capacitors that were bad..about 10 of them were replaced. I'm in the middle of reassembly, but I've run across a plug that I marked, but cant find the wire that plugs into it. Can you tell me if "PA" is used or should I start over again..
I have a question. I recently received the green light of death, so after reading the posts deceided to remove the boards and replace the capacitors that were bad..about 10 of them were replaced. I'm in the middle of reassembly, but I've run across a plug that I marked, but cant find the wire that plugs into it. Can you tell me if "PA" is used or should I start over again..
Is there any way someone can post an answer to our question above?
"Well, we managed to get the chassis out and found 2 caps (3300's)on the pwr bd shot. We are trying to get to the dm board. Any tricks out there? We are attempting to separate the cases to get to the dm board but there lots of wire harnesses in the way. Any idea of the values on the caps on the dm bd that typically go?"
Is there possibly an "expert" available to answer this? We just want to be able to take it apart w/o creating further damage.
Larry, are you there? You seem to have the most answers to questions like this.
Hi. You are right, there is a fair amount of cabling involved. What you want to do first after p/s is loose and out of the way is to undo the screws down low and to left and low to right of card rack. A little at a time and you will feel it loosening. Leave jack panel in place. Enough screws out, then you can separate the DM and Formatter boards from Tuner board. At this point, you will find screws holding DM and Formatter boards together. Be careful undoing the ribbon cables at bottom of Formatter board. Unhook the bunch going down side of DM board, and ones on top. At this point you should be real close to having DM board free. Look for 4 1000uF 16 volt caps. These are the ones likely to go bad on DM board.
After replacing caps, you can splay the boards out and run the tv to see if you fixed it before piecing back together. Look at the same caps on Formatter and Tuner boards while you are in there.
It looks much worse than it actually is. Just be careful with the bottom ribbon cables as they pass through some metal cutouts. They are easy to tear up.
Larry, thanks for all your information. I'm still having another problem. I replaced about 10 capacitors and put everything back together, but the green light still blinks.
Do you have any ideas what could be causing this? I tried the plug in/hold down the power trick, but nothing helped.
Larry Dillon said: joeyben, I am sending you the service manual as well as the DM board repair, as this type of projection set is not the exact one that is being used in the DM board repair guide. You can still use the directions in the guide to repair the DM board and to get the parts, but you will need to use the disassembly instructions on how to get to the DM board, and to take it out of your model of set. If the capacitors are not bad, you have the service manual so you or someone who knows how to troubleshoot solid state circuits can go from there. Good Luck with this repair, and let us know how you make out!
Could I also get a copy of the instructions and service manual? We are having the same problem with our 62525 model. My email is [email protected] Thanks!!
I would like to receive a copy of the instructions and service manual also...almost the identical problem with my WD52725....My e-mail is [email protected]..
Larry;
I also have changed the bulb and have 30, or so seconds before the solid red light appears. No pic, no sound.
Would you please e-mail me your tech data?
Thank you for your dedicated service to this matter. [email protected]
Chuck
Larry,
I've got the red light on my WD-62525 after replacing the bulb.
Please forward the docs to me. While I haven't read of any success with the cap replacement, I thought it couldn't hurt to try, since I'm wary of "repairmen". [email protected]
This is a very generous thing you are doing...
Larry,
I've got the red light on my WD-62525 after replacing the bulb.
Please forward the docs to me. While I haven't read of any success with the cap replacement, I thought it couldn't hurt to try, since I'm wary of "repairmen". [email protected]
This is a very generous thing you are doing...
Larry,
I have a Mitsubishi WD-62525 with the blinking problem. Could you send me all the service manuals. I will really appreciate it.
Thank you
Daniel [email protected]
Larry Dillon said: Thats an indication of a DM board problem. There may be four capacitors inside the DM board assembly that need replacement. If you can solder and follow directions, I have a DM board fix for this TV set with pictures as well.. Just request the directions and leave an e-mail address, and I will send these directions to you. If you are not handy and are not mehcanicly inclinded, do not attempt the repair yourself. A repair person will most likely charge you 700 to 1000 bucks for a repair such as this. Good Luck
Hi Larry (or anybody that can help)-I have a Mits 62725 as well and I heard sound fluctuations coming from a fan in the tv. I think there are two or more fans and this fluctuating noise does not apear to be coming from the large fan that cools the bulb, but a smaller fan over the circuit board that is on all the time. I'm thinking of opening the back and replacing the small fan and bulb while I'm at it (over 5 yrs in use). My service center wants $155 to show up at the house and won't sell me parts. My questions:
What do you recommend? Should I replace other parts as well since I'm in the neighborhood.
Do you have any instructions/suggestions on replacing the smaller fan?
Do you know a reasonable place to get these fans and other parts?
djnoble35209 said:
Hi. You are right, there is a fair amount of cabling involved. What you want to do first after p/s is loose and out of the way is to undo the screws down low and to left and low to right of card rack. A little at a time and you will feel it loosening. Leave jack panel in place. Enough screws out, then you can separate the DM and Formatter boards from Tuner board. At this point, you will find screws holding DM and Formatter boards together. Be careful undoing the ribbon cables at bottom of Formatter board. Unhook the bunch going down side of DM board, and ones on top. At this point you should be real close to having DM board free. Look for 4 1000uF 16 volt caps. These are the ones likely to go bad on DM board.
After replacing caps, you can splay the boards out and run the tv to see if you fixed it before piecing back together. Look at the same caps on Formatter and Tuner boards while you are in there.
It looks much worse than it actually is. Just be careful with the bottom ribbon cables as they pass through some metal cutouts. They are easy to tear up.
Well, we managed to get it all apart and replaced several caps. Some on the DM bd, some on the pwr bd, and several others. We pc'd the bds back together (outside the unit) and powered it up. After several attempts, we got a blue screen (much more than we had before the fix) and a question on whether we changed the bulb, which we had already done. We answered yes, but we still have a yellow lamplight indicator. We pressed the reset button but still have the yellow light. Do you think it is safe to put it all back together? Another question is why the caps went bad in the 1st place. Was it because we delayed in replacing the lamp therefore the lamp burned out and took some caps out with it or is it just the way it goes with these sets.
Mits lowballs the voltage rating. Take the 2 3300X10 caps in the power board for example. I bump them up to 16 or 25 volt, whichever I have to hand. Much more reliable.
Your yellow Lamp light, is it solid or blinking? According to the book, solid yellow means bulb has run longer than 4000 hours, and Mits thinks you may wish to consider replacing it. Flashing yellow means lamp door is open or bulb is not in tight. Seeing as you have a blue screen I would guess solid, yes? There is a deeper way to clear the lamp hours I believe, and someone may have insight on that here.
Seeing as it took several tries to get it started, look for more dodgy caps before putting back together. When it is right, it will happily start every time and run fine strung open like that.
Larry,
I think you doing a great service to all of us who purchased the Mits WD-62525. Out TV went out today. It unexpectedly went to the blue screen. The device menu icons were visible, but after turning off and then on again the TV just gave use a solid red lamp light. I had a spare bulb, which I replace, but that did not help. Reset does not help. What do you think the problem could be? Capacitors? The status lights show a 34.
Also, could you please send me the manuals at [email protected]. I would really appreciate the help.
Thanks, davisojm
Just a quick request if anyone SUCCESSFULLY SOLVES THIS PROBLEM PLEASE SHARE HOW IT WAS DONE.
After a few month and several attempts at switchng out components on the DM board the TV has been relegated to the dungeon. In fact some smart ass cat burgular tried to break it to get it.... I would have loved to see them try to carry it off.
In any event, we have given up for now and purchased a flatscreen Panasonic for a third of the price. Given the cost of the WD and the months of aggrevation trying to address the manfacturer's defect in its design/operation, we are through for now.
As for our experience, my suggestion is to save yourself the frustration. Buy something else because the warranty is not worth the paper it is printed on. Smells like class action to me as this is a major failure of these systems.
Larry - I finally got around to working on my 62725. I got the chassis out and found a few bad capacitors. I need to order a few of the 1000uf capacitors as well as the 3300uf capacitors. I remember reading on this forum that you said higher volts is okay. What voltage should I order for each capacitor and is there a certain brand you recommend?
You all seem to have the most active discussion about broken Mitsubishi televisions. I cannot believe the shoddy workmanship behind this very expensive product! Yesterday I picked up three Mits sets, all less than four years old, all with various problems that caused their owners to write them off and purchase new televisions. At any rate, I have two 60" Mits tvs, both the exact same model number (I can get that if you want, but my question seems to be rather generic). One TV (my old one) was diagnosed with a cracked convergence board. Other than that (if one can actually say this), the set worked fine. :) One of the ones I picked up yesterday returns the error 2 3 code with symptoms mentioned often in this forum: The set plays beautifully with no sign of a convergence problem for about 15 minutes and then shuts off and won't come back on until time has passed or the set is unplugged for 5 to 10 minutes. According to the owner, the set will sometimes come back on spontaneously.
I thought to perhaps take whole parts or boards from the set with the bad convergence board and put them into the error 2 3 set to make one good tv. I chose this method because the set with the 2 3 error is cleaner and has a non-reflective screen while the other set does not. My questions for you here are:
Is this feasible and am I likely to have success?
What part or board should I start with first? In other words, what part is the most likely causing the error 2 3?
Or, should I just remove the convergence board from the error 2 3 set and put it in my old tv (the one with the reportedly cracked convergence board)?
Or, finally, should I abandon this effort and haul both TVs to the trash dump?
Larry hasn't replied since July 2nd to my request. He probably took a well deserved break, however, I still need the service manual and info for my Mits 62525. Status codes 12, 33 and 34, depending on when you request them. I changed the bulb and double checked connections, but get no sound or Pic. The bulb and fan does cycle on, then off after several seconds.
Once, during initial failure, I had a slight (green) image showing the Net Command menu. It did not last long.
Please, someone send the data and manual to [email protected] ?
Chuck
hi evey1, who can help me again? i have th wd 62525. the pic is just showing an honeycomb like picture, plss help....
repair docs on their way to you. Good luck!
Larry,
We have a Mitsu 62525 with the lamp abnormality issue. We managed to take off the back panels but are perplexed on how to get to the dm board. We believe that the board is behind a metal case that has some jacks. We unscrewed all the logical screws but the case will not budge. How do we get to the dm board. We have a service manual but it is not clear on this issue.
Thanks,
Jim
[email protected]
i replace all the bad capacitors,but still have the same result,is there anything i miss?
probably more capacitors on the power supply board that also go bad. I just recently found several more bad ones but I did not write them down yet!
Well, we managed to get the chassis out and found 2 caps (3300's)on the pwr bd shot. We are trying to get to the dm board. Any tricks out there? We are attempting to separate the cases to get to the dm board but there lots of wire harnesses in the way. Any idea of the values on the caps on the dm bd that typically go?
Thanks,
Jim
I have a question. I recently received the green light of death, so after reading the posts deceided to remove the boards and replace the capacitors that were bad..about 10 of them were replaced. I'm in the middle of reassembly, but I've run across a plug that I marked, but cant find the wire that plugs into it. Can you tell me if "PA" is used or should I start over again..
I have a question. I recently received the green light of death, so after reading the posts deceided to remove the boards and replace the capacitors that were bad..about 10 of them were replaced. I'm in the middle of reassembly, but I've run across a plug that I marked, but cant find the wire that plugs into it. Can you tell me if "PA" is used or should I start over again..
Pa, is not used on this set, it is a factory test connector.
Is there any way someone can post an answer to our question above?
"Well, we managed to get the chassis out and found 2 caps (3300's)on the pwr bd shot. We are trying to get to the dm board. Any tricks out there? We are attempting to separate the cases to get to the dm board but there lots of wire harnesses in the way. Any idea of the values on the caps on the dm bd that typically go?"
Is there possibly an "expert" available to answer this? We just want to be able to take it apart w/o creating further damage.
Larry, are you there? You seem to have the most answers to questions like this.
Please advise.
Hi. You are right, there is a fair amount of cabling involved. What you want to do first after p/s is loose and out of the way is to undo the screws down low and to left and low to right of card rack. A little at a time and you will feel it loosening. Leave jack panel in place. Enough screws out, then you can separate the DM and Formatter boards from Tuner board. At this point, you will find screws holding DM and Formatter boards together. Be careful undoing the ribbon cables at bottom of Formatter board. Unhook the bunch going down side of DM board, and ones on top. At this point you should be real close to having DM board free. Look for 4 1000uF 16 volt caps. These are the ones likely to go bad on DM board.
After replacing caps, you can splay the boards out and run the tv to see if you fixed it before piecing back together. Look at the same caps on Formatter and Tuner boards while you are in there.
It looks much worse than it actually is. Just be careful with the bottom ribbon cables as they pass through some metal cutouts. They are easy to tear up.
Larry, thanks for all your information. I'm still having another problem. I replaced about 10 capacitors and put everything back together, but the green light still blinks.
Do you have any ideas what could be causing this? I tried the plug in/hold down the power trick, but nothing helped.
The fan is also working fine.
I'm having the same problems with my WD-62525 after replacing the lamp, I still have a solid red light no picture sound etc.
could someone please send me repai or service manual.
THANK YOU!
I would like to receive a copy of the instructions and service manual also...almost the identical problem with my WD52725....My e-mail is [email protected]..
thanks for the help...steve
Dave, you forgot your E-MAIL, so NO I cannot send it to you.
Larry;
I also have changed the bulb and have 30, or so seconds before the solid red light appears. No pic, no sound.
Would you please e-mail me your tech data?
Thank you for your dedicated service to this matter.
[email protected]
Chuck
sorry I didn't include email. [email protected] in regards to repair or service manual for WD-62525 red light
Larry,
I've got the red light on my WD-62525 after replacing the bulb.
Please forward the docs to me. While I haven't read of any success with the cap replacement, I thought it couldn't hurt to try, since I'm wary of "repairmen".
[email protected]
This is a very generous thing you are doing...
Larry,
I've got the red light on my WD-62525 after replacing the bulb.
Please forward the docs to me. While I haven't read of any success with the cap replacement, I thought it couldn't hurt to try, since I'm wary of "repairmen".
[email protected]
This is a very generous thing you are doing...
Larry,
I have a Mitsubishi WD-62525 with the blinking problem. Could you send me all the service manuals. I will really appreciate it.
Thank you
Daniel
[email protected]
Hi Larry (or anybody that can help)-I have a Mits 62725 as well and I heard sound fluctuations coming from a fan in the tv. I think there are two or more fans and this fluctuating noise does not apear to be coming from the large fan that cools the bulb, but a smaller fan over the circuit board that is on all the time. I'm thinking of opening the back and replacing the small fan and bulb while I'm at it (over 5 yrs in use). My service center wants $155 to show up at the house and won't sell me parts. My questions:
Thank you!
Well, we managed to get it all apart and replaced several caps. Some on the DM bd, some on the pwr bd, and several others. We pc'd the bds back together (outside the unit) and powered it up. After several attempts, we got a blue screen (much more than we had before the fix) and a question on whether we changed the bulb, which we had already done. We answered yes, but we still have a yellow lamplight indicator. We pressed the reset button but still have the yellow light. Do you think it is safe to put it all back together? Another question is why the caps went bad in the 1st place. Was it because we delayed in replacing the lamp therefore the lamp burned out and took some caps out with it or is it just the way it goes with these sets.
Thanks for your help so far.
Fran and Jim
Mits lowballs the voltage rating. Take the 2 3300X10 caps in the power board for example. I bump them up to 16 or 25 volt, whichever I have to hand. Much more reliable.
Your yellow Lamp light, is it solid or blinking? According to the book, solid yellow means bulb has run longer than 4000 hours, and Mits thinks you may wish to consider replacing it. Flashing yellow means lamp door is open or bulb is not in tight. Seeing as you have a blue screen I would guess solid, yes? There is a deeper way to clear the lamp hours I believe, and someone may have insight on that here.
Seeing as it took several tries to get it started, look for more dodgy caps before putting back together. When it is right, it will happily start every time and run fine strung open like that.
Larry,
I think you doing a great service to all of us who purchased the Mits WD-62525. Out TV went out today. It unexpectedly went to the blue screen. The device menu icons were visible, but after turning off and then on again the TV just gave use a solid red lamp light. I had a spare bulb, which I replace, but that did not help. Reset does not help. What do you think the problem could be? Capacitors? The status lights show a 34.
Also, could you please send me the manuals at [email protected]. I would really appreciate the help.
Thanks, davisojm
Just a quick request if anyone SUCCESSFULLY SOLVES THIS PROBLEM PLEASE SHARE HOW IT WAS DONE.
After a few month and several attempts at switchng out components on the DM board the TV has been relegated to the dungeon. In fact some smart ass cat burgular tried to break it to get it.... I would have loved to see them try to carry it off.
In any event, we have given up for now and purchased a flatscreen Panasonic for a third of the price. Given the cost of the WD and the months of aggrevation trying to address the manfacturer's defect in its design/operation, we are through for now.
As for our experience, my suggestion is to save yourself the frustration. Buy something else because the warranty is not worth the paper it is printed on. Smells like class action to me as this is a major failure of these systems.
Larry - I finally got around to working on my 62725. I got the chassis out and found a few bad capacitors. I need to order a few of the 1000uf capacitors as well as the 3300uf capacitors. I remember reading on this forum that you said higher volts is okay. What voltage should I order for each capacitor and is there a certain brand you recommend?
Thanks
Doug
Hello...
You all seem to have the most active discussion about broken Mitsubishi televisions. I cannot believe the shoddy workmanship behind this very expensive product! Yesterday I picked up three Mits sets, all less than four years old, all with various problems that caused their owners to write them off and purchase new televisions. At any rate, I have two 60" Mits tvs, both the exact same model number (I can get that if you want, but my question seems to be rather generic). One TV (my old one) was diagnosed with a cracked convergence board. Other than that (if one can actually say this), the set worked fine. :) One of the ones I picked up yesterday returns the error 2 3 code with symptoms mentioned often in this forum: The set plays beautifully with no sign of a convergence problem for about 15 minutes and then shuts off and won't come back on until time has passed or the set is unplugged for 5 to 10 minutes. According to the owner, the set will sometimes come back on spontaneously.
I thought to perhaps take whole parts or boards from the set with the bad convergence board and put them into the error 2 3 set to make one good tv. I chose this method because the set with the 2 3 error is cleaner and has a non-reflective screen while the other set does not. My questions for you here are:
Is this feasible and am I likely to have success?
What part or board should I start with first? In other words, what part is the most likely causing the error 2 3?
Or, should I just remove the convergence board from the error 2 3 set and put it in my old tv (the one with the reportedly cracked convergence board)?
Or, finally, should I abandon this effort and haul both TVs to the trash dump?
Thanks for any input you might have...
Whitecrow
hey guys im in the same boat,will one of you guys that has the service manual please email it to me at [email protected] much appreicated
Larry hasn't replied since July 2nd to my request. He probably took a well deserved break, however, I still need the service manual and info for my Mits 62525. Status codes 12, 33 and 34, depending on when you request them. I changed the bulb and double checked connections, but get no sound or Pic. The bulb and fan does cycle on, then off after several seconds.
Once, during initial failure, I had a slight (green) image showing the Net Command menu. It did not last long.
Please, someone send the data and manual to [email protected] ?
Chuck
I know there are lots of people on here besides Larry that have the manual
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