Danny, take out the DM board and look at the capacitors. There should be 4 of them or on some there are seven. Make sure they are not swollen on the tops, and that they all check within spec.
I don't know if you saw my first post, the long one. I did check the caps, none bad or swollen, and did replace them anyway for good measure, on DM, FMT and power supply boards. These were 1000uf 16V high temps.
The long post tells what all I have done to this time.
Well it seems that we've fallen victim to a problem with our Mitsubishi WD-62525. We've searched and read on this forum and others and my husband has taken the whole TV apart. So, I would feel much better if we acutally had a service manual to go off of. Larry Dillon would you be able to send a copy of the manual to us at We had a constant red light, and a code 34, it looks like so far that there might be two bad (bulging) caps and he's still working to take things apart. Thanks for your help. (btw the bulb looked fine and was just replaced about 3 mos ago).
I think I have mine solved. Mits WD-52725. This morning, having let it sit cold all night, I started. Soon as I saw a picture, I took the remote and pushed MENU 2 4 7 0 ENTER It said Reinitializing Settings..... for a short time. Then I pushed the tiny Reset button on the front.
After about a minute of blinking it stopped blinking. I let it sit a minute or so to see if blinking would come back. It did not. I then went into the menu and memorized the channels. Let it sit and run most of the day. Turned off for a while, then turned back on later. Unplugged upon leaving work, Will retry tomorrow. If works good again, then I will reassemble and try again.
dj, typical fault when the capacitors are getting leaky. You should change them now so the caps will not cayse any other problems with the DM board. I have sent out the repair docs to everyone who has left a good e-mail address. Good Luck
That's the thing, I already had, on DM, FMT and PS. Dunno why this remote sequence finished the job but I will be making good notes. Am putting back together now. That takes a while in itself.
In the service manual it says to do the sequence, if the chassis is messed with.
My hubby soldered on new caps and put it back together, to get a flashing green light that won't shut off. So, I'm just wishing we could get to a picture to enter the sequence...
It's being disassembled again, to recheck all the wires and what not.
**edit**
Just an update - I guess the caps that my hubby replaced were 2 on the power supply, and 4 on another board that was not the DM board. He finally found "the" DM board and the caps look fine. He's going to go ahead and replace them tomorrow anyway, just in case. We moved on to checking voltages on the power board and I guess there is no voltage a couple areas, so I think we are stuck there for the moment....
Nydia, where are you missing voltage, and make sure the Caps you replaced were installed correctly. There is a plus and a minus side to these capacitors. Also sometimes the 4 caps in the DM will look good, but will be bad. Aso do not forget to check the 3 surface mounted fuses on the solder side of the DM board.
He lined up the polarity on the caps so the strips matched the lines on the board. He will replace those 4 caps on the DM board, since we did read that sometimes they may not show that they are bulged but still be bad.
He checked the fuses and they seemed to be fine.
Here are the voltage readings that he got - this on the WD-62525 mitsubishi TV :
Power board -
tp12v 0 volts
tp10v 0 volts
tp 3.3v 0 volts
tp -15v -16.7 volts
tp +15v 16.7 volts
tp 12vs 12.1 volts
tp 30vs 30.2 volts
tp 6vs 6.9 volts
tp 5v .8 volts
So he said we were not getting voltage to F9A07 and F9A09 - He said that these areas aren't open, just no voltage.
You have 12vs but no voltage to the light engine power supply. Check F9A07 for continuity as without the 12vs on that fuse, there will be no power going to the DM board. That's why the light is blinking. The light blinks while the DM communicates with the TV sets microprocessor. You could have a bad ballast or possibly a bad light engine assay. causing this part of the power supply not to work.
You should have 12 volts on it then. That is connected to the 12vs. maybe a plug came out somewhere? The caps on the DM board can be checked with a capacitor meter or an ESR meter but I simply replace them. They are cheap.
Ok going to get the caps in a few, won't be able to get back to the set until later today.
We thought we checked and re checked all the plugs. Although it's all apart again now.
My husband has another question, but we are in the middle of doing something else. I'll have him post it up later, something to do with whether the volts should be before the caps or after in that section (this is my summary of what he asked, and doesn't make much sense to me, so I'm sure it's not accurate and it may not make sense to you).
nydia's hubby here, I replaced the 4 caps on the DM board. The problem seems to be on the power board. Its not creating any power in the upper right side of it at all.
Does anyone have a detailed schematic of the power board? We have a copy of the service manual but its not that detailed. its more of just a block diagram. I'm guessing one of the diodes might be bad on the board????
My wife mentioned the light engine.... but what doesn't make sense is... the power board should make all the power reguardless of what is plugged into it. So I unplugged the top connectors and powered plugged the board in by itself.... still no power on all the test points in the upper right side of the board.
This TV is about to just end up in the trash. Man this stinks right before christmas.
I started this thread originally sometime ago & it seems to have gone off in different directions. My Mitsubishi WD-62525 that failed with the complete loss of screen display & sound. Status Light blinks a code in an endless RED light flashes in a series of one long then 3 short, then repeating that same series over & over.
Could you please forward me the pictures & instructions for repair as well as the tech manual that i have seen mentioned. My email address is [email protected].
Well crud. The WD52725 ran fine long as its guts were strung out across the bench, for 2 or 3 days. Once reassembled, it ran a short time then went back to its' old tricks, the endless blinking timer light. At this point it about has to be a cooling problem or dying DM board. Hate to throw money at a DM board unless I know for sure.
It is unpluged for the night. This should allow enough cooling for resumed testing tomorrow. I have picked up 2 cans of freeze spray, which will be liberally used. My next plan of troubleshooting is to allow it to screw up, then cool what I can without gutting it, to isolate the board at least, then proceed to narrow it down to chip, cap or whatever component is giving me grief.
George, have you held in the device and menu buttons down together for about 5 seconds? That should make the power light begin flashing in a 2 group sequence, like 3 then 3 and repeats. If not, try that and say what code is returned, if any. That may help run your problem down. I don't know if that has been posted or not. If so, I apologise, if not, see what it tells you. I have a list of error codes here. For example, mine returns 1-2 which is no error detected, check power supply. Doesn't help me any, but you may have better results.
Repalce the caps inside the DM board man. This is a typical problem, or if you already have replaced the caps, add a fan to the set. It explains very clearly in the directions how to do this. George, your problem is not the DM board if the light is red with a code of 13. as you described. There is no code 13, there is a code of 12, means no trouble set booting normally.
Larry Dillon, please respond or contact me, i need you allow me to send you my email address re: the DM capacitors on the Mitsubishi Medallion TV. I am capable of the replacement, but need instruction. Thankyou.
I'm not sure if anyone has use for or wants any parts from our Mitsubishi WD-62525. Our Power board seems to be bad, and we aren't able to get our hands on another, without paying a tech to trouble shoot what we have already done and then pay for the part. We've decided it's just easier to invest our time and money elsewhere. If your interested in any items from our set, I guess PM me and we can work something out (we'll hold on to the set for a little bit and if there is no response, we'll be getting rid of it.)
Thanks for all the help and sorry for hi-jacking the thread.
I got a WD-Y57 that just went out. Unfortunately, I did not see the incident, my wife did. She described it as a pop, the picture blinked off, then back on breifly, then out for good. Did the whole unplug and reset dance, still no go. I can't hear the fan running. The timer light flashes green for about a minute then the status light goes solid red. The local shop said it was a bad lamp. Despite not believing them, I bought one anyway. I was right. Same problem with the new lamp. The Menu/Input button trick says 12, which tells me nothing is wrong, right?. But there is, obviously. Reading the forums tells me the most common problems are bad cap on the DM board. I am going to take a look, but the engineers at work don't believe caps should blow after only a year. I am really hoping it is not a light engine, since I dont see many posts on how to fix that and I REALLY dont want to drop a grand this close to xmas on repairs. Anyone know how to get a service manual so I check out all the circuit boards for blown parts? Or anyone have severe problems on the WD-XX732/Y57/Y65 similar to this?
Edit
Actually at startup, the timer light is solid green for about a minute, then the red status light comes on. I did discover a new error code while pushing Menu/Input. 61?
More on the WD52725 story. Been running fine the last three days, no blinks, nothing. Just like a new set. Hard to troubleshoot that way. Am buying the DM board from another member to see how it does, just as an experiment.
When the set gets in another of its moods I can do some more with it, but right now I just let it sit and run till it chooses to act up. Wish it was more consistant.
Again, I have changed the DM board caps, checked fuses and solder connections. Same with PS, FMT, Term and tuner boards.
When running it is never hot feeling coming out of DM board vents, course that doesn't mean much....
I started off with the dreaded red light. I replace the bulb which did look bad but nothing changed. After lurking for the last 2 weeks and getting the guts to open her up I found 2 bad caps. Replaced those and this is where I am at.
The TV will now power up but the picture is very degraded. Kinda like its missing a color or something. It almost looks like Safe mode on a PC. It is internal and does this on setups and with any input used.
The repair shop that took a week to get a hold of wanted $800 if they guessed right over the phone.
That was last week
Today:
After cleaning out all 3 Radio Shacks in town I have replace all 12 1000s
Same exact problem.
Also to get to all the boards the whole chasis was taken apart and everthing reseated.
Any other ideas guys.
When the bulb went it did get discolored in a spot. Any thing I can do to check the LE?
With no input conected the menus are all at a low resolution and lacking a few colors.
Danny, take out the DM board and look at the capacitors. There should be 4 of them or on some there are seven. Make sure they are not swollen on the tops, and that they all check within spec.
I don't know if you saw my first post, the long one. I did check the caps, none bad or swollen, and did replace them anyway for good measure, on DM, FMT and power supply boards. These were 1000uf 16V high temps.
The long post tells what all I have done to this time.
Cheers, Danny
Well it seems that we've fallen victim to a problem with our Mitsubishi WD-62525. We've searched and read on this forum and others and my husband has taken the whole TV apart. So, I would feel much better if we acutally had a service manual to go off of. Larry Dillon would you be able to send a copy of the manual to us at We had a constant red light, and a code 34, it looks like so far that there might be two bad (bulging) caps and he's still working to take things apart. Thanks for your help. (btw the bulb looked fine and was just replaced about 3 mos ago).
I also have the blinking light problem. Could I please have the instruction to fix the problem?
[email protected]
I think I have mine solved. Mits WD-52725. This morning, having let it sit cold all night, I started. Soon as I saw a picture, I took the remote and pushed MENU 2 4 7 0 ENTER It said Reinitializing Settings..... for a short time. Then I pushed the tiny Reset button on the front.
After about a minute of blinking it stopped blinking. I let it sit a minute or so to see if blinking would come back. It did not. I then went into the menu and memorized the channels. Let it sit and run most of the day. Turned off for a while, then turned back on later. Unplugged upon leaving work, Will retry tomorrow. If works good again, then I will reassemble and try again.
Danny
dj, typical fault when the capacitors are getting leaky. You should change them now so the caps will not cayse any other problems with the DM board. I have sent out the repair docs to everyone who has left a good e-mail address. Good Luck
That's the thing, I already had, on DM, FMT and PS. Dunno why this remote sequence finished the job but I will be making good notes. Am putting back together now. That takes a while in itself.
Danny
In the service manual it says to do the sequence, if the chassis is messed with.
My hubby soldered on new caps and put it back together, to get a flashing green light that won't shut off. So, I'm just wishing we could get to a picture to enter the sequence...
It's being disassembled again, to recheck all the wires and what not.
**edit**
Just an update - I guess the caps that my hubby replaced were 2 on the power supply, and 4 on another board that was not the DM board. He finally found "the" DM board and the caps look fine. He's going to go ahead and replace them tomorrow anyway, just in case. We moved on to checking voltages on the power board and I guess there is no voltage a couple areas, so I think we are stuck there for the moment....
Thank you Larry for sending the items....
Nydia, where are you missing voltage, and make sure the Caps you replaced were installed correctly. There is a plus and a minus side to these capacitors. Also sometimes the 4 caps in the DM will look good, but will be bad. Aso do not forget to check the 3 surface mounted fuses on the solder side of the DM board.
I'm certainly not a techie - but here I go:
He lined up the polarity on the caps so the strips matched the lines on the board. He will replace those 4 caps on the DM board, since we did read that sometimes they may not show that they are bulged but still be bad.
He checked the fuses and they seemed to be fine.
Here are the voltage readings that he got - this on the WD-62525 mitsubishi TV :
Power board -
tp12v 0 volts
tp10v 0 volts
tp 3.3v 0 volts
tp -15v -16.7 volts
tp +15v 16.7 volts
tp 12vs 12.1 volts
tp 30vs 30.2 volts
tp 6vs 6.9 volts
tp 5v .8 volts
So he said we were not getting voltage to F9A07 and F9A09 - He said that these areas aren't open, just no voltage.
Haven't made any more progress yet....
You have 12vs but no voltage to the light engine power supply. Check F9A07 for continuity as without the 12vs on that fuse, there will be no power going to the DM board. That's why the light is blinking. The light blinks while the DM communicates with the TV sets microprocessor. You could have a bad ballast or possibly a bad light engine assay. causing this part of the power supply not to work.
Ugh yeah I read a little last night on this (going to be some
if it's any of those - unless there are DIY fixes for those too..)
When we get time we'll check the F9A07
Thanks for the help
The F9A07 has continuity
Is there a way to check out (verify if they are good) the caps on the DM board?
You should have 12 volts on it then. That is connected to the 12vs. maybe a plug came out somewhere? The caps on the DM board can be checked with a capacitor meter or an ESR meter but I simply replace them. They are cheap.
Ok going to get the caps in a few, won't be able to get back to the set until later today.
We thought we checked and re checked all the plugs. Although it's all apart again now.
My husband has another question, but we are in the middle of doing something else. I'll have him post it up later, something to do with whether the volts should be before the caps or after in that section (this is my summary of what he asked, and doesn't make much sense to me, so I'm sure it's not accurate and it may not make sense to you).
nydia's hubby here, I replaced the 4 caps on the DM board. The problem seems to be on the power board. Its not creating any power in the upper right side of it at all.
Does anyone have a detailed schematic of the power board? We have a copy of the service manual but its not that detailed. its more of just a block diagram. I'm guessing one of the diodes might be bad on the board????
My wife mentioned the light engine.... but what doesn't make sense is... the power board should make all the power reguardless of what is plugged into it. So I unplugged the top connectors and powered plugged the board in by itself.... still no power on all the test points in the upper right side of the board.
This TV is about to just end up in the trash. Man this stinks right before christmas.
Larry,
I started this thread originally sometime ago & it seems to have gone off in different directions. My Mitsubishi WD-62525 that failed with the complete loss of screen display & sound. Status Light blinks a code in an endless RED light flashes in a series of one long then 3 short, then repeating that same series over & over.
Could you please forward me the pictures & instructions for repair as well as the tech manual that i have seen mentioned. My email address is [email protected].
Thanks, GeorgeS
Well crud. The WD52725 ran fine long as its guts were strung out across the bench, for 2 or 3 days. Once reassembled, it ran a short time then went back to its' old tricks, the endless blinking timer light. At this point it about has to be a cooling problem or dying DM board. Hate to throw money at a DM board unless I know for sure.
It is unpluged for the night. This should allow enough cooling for resumed testing tomorrow. I have picked up 2 cans of freeze spray, which will be liberally used. My next plan of troubleshooting is to allow it to screw up, then cool what I can without gutting it, to isolate the board at least, then proceed to narrow it down to chip, cap or whatever component is giving me grief.
I refuse to be beaten by an inanimate object.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
George, have you held in the device and menu buttons down together for about 5 seconds? That should make the power light begin flashing in a 2 group sequence, like 3 then 3 and repeats. If not, try that and say what code is returned, if any. That may help run your problem down. I don't know if that has been posted or not. If so, I apologise, if not, see what it tells you. I have a list of error codes here. For example, mine returns 1-2 which is no error detected, check power supply. Doesn't help me any, but you may have better results.
Danny
Repalce the caps inside the DM board man. This is a typical problem, or if you already have replaced the caps, add a fan to the set. It explains very clearly in the directions how to do this. George, your problem is not the DM board if the light is red with a code of 13. as you described. There is no code 13, there is a code of 12, means no trouble set booting normally.
Okay, I'll bite. Where would I find these directions you speak of? I have already replaced the caps.
Danny
Here is my email address
[email protected]
Cheers, Danny
They will go out tonight on the next mailing.
Coolness, I appreciate it. great pic but it has been an interesting problem to figure out.
Danny
Larry Dillon, please respond or contact me, i need you allow me to send you my email address re: the DM capacitors on the Mitsubishi Medallion TV. I am capable of the replacement, but need instruction. Thankyou.
Okay, we give up....
I'm not sure if anyone has use for or wants any parts from our Mitsubishi WD-62525. Our Power board seems to be bad, and we aren't able to get our hands on another, without paying a tech to trouble shoot what we have already done and then pay for the part. We've decided it's just easier to invest our time and money elsewhere. If your interested in any items from our set, I guess PM me and we can work something out (we'll hold on to the set for a little bit and if there is no response, we'll be getting rid of it.)
Thanks for all the help and sorry for hi-jacking the thread.
I could use the DM board. Here is my email address
[email protected]
Thanks, Danny
I got a WD-Y57 that just went out. Unfortunately, I did not see the incident, my wife did. She described it as a pop, the picture blinked off, then back on breifly, then out for good. Did the whole unplug and reset dance, still no go. I can't hear the fan running. The timer light flashes green for about a minute then the status light goes solid red. The local shop said it was a bad lamp. Despite not believing them, I bought one anyway. I was right. Same problem with the new lamp. The Menu/Input button trick says 12, which tells me nothing is wrong, right?. But there is, obviously. Reading the forums tells me the most common problems are bad cap on the DM board. I am going to take a look, but the engineers at work don't believe caps should blow after only a year. I am really hoping it is not a light engine, since I dont see many posts on how to fix that and I REALLY dont want to drop a grand this close to xmas on repairs. Anyone know how to get a service manual so I check out all the circuit boards for blown parts? Or anyone have severe problems on the WD-XX732/Y57/Y65 similar to this?
Edit
Actually at startup, the timer light is solid green for about a minute, then the red status light comes on. I did discover a new error code while pushing Menu/Input. 61?
More on the WD52725 story. Been running fine the last three days, no blinks, nothing. Just like a new set. Hard to troubleshoot that way. Am buying the DM board from another member to see how it does, just as an experiment.
When the set gets in another of its moods I can do some more with it, but right now I just let it sit and run till it chooses to act up. Wish it was more consistant.
Again, I have changed the DM board caps, checked fuses and solder connections. Same with PS, FMT, Term and tuner boards.
When running it is never hot feeling coming out of DM board vents, course that doesn't mean much....
I continue
Here is were I am at
I started off with the dreaded red light. I replace the bulb which did look bad but nothing changed.
After lurking for the last 2 weeks and getting the guts to open her up I found 2 bad caps.
Replaced those and this is where I am at.
The TV will now power up but the picture is very degraded. Kinda like its missing a color or something. It almost looks like Safe mode on a PC. It is internal and does this on setups and with any input used.
The repair shop that took a week to get a hold of wanted $800 if they guessed right over the phone.
That was last week
Today:
After cleaning out all 3 Radio Shacks in town I have replace all 12 1000s
Same exact problem.
Also to get to all the boards the whole chasis was taken apart and everthing reseated.
Any other ideas guys.
When the bulb went it did get discolored in a spot. Any thing I can do to check the LE?
With no input conected the menus are all at a low resolution and lacking a few colors.
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