KP-46WT520 9 Blinks

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Alnp
Alnp's picture
pepsigerry said:

pepsigerry said:
I'm still hoping for an answer to my question. Can I unplug and remove the G board safely? If I can I can send it out to be repaired. Everyone wants at least $100 just to look at it! Thanks, Gerry

Gerry, what model do you have and what is wrong with the set.

If ac has been unplugged for a while you can safely pull the chassis to access the boards.

 

 

 

pepsigerry
pepsigerry's picture
I have a Sony KP-46WT520 with

I have a Sony KP-46WT520 with the dreaded 10 blinks then 9 blinks. I want to know if I can safely unplug and remove the G board without getting zapped? If I can then I can have it fixed. Thanks for your help, Gerry

Bobby P
Bobby P's picture
Hi! I have a Sony KDS

Hi! I have a Sony KDS-55A2000 and have the dreaded 9 blinks. The info. on this thread is GREAT! I know exactly what to do. I found D6301 but for the life of me, can't find D6116...can anyone tell me where to look exactly on the G board, or at least a diagram of where it is??? PLEASE!
Thanks, Bobby

ableswh
ableswh's picture
I have a model KD-28HR500

I have a model KD-28HR500 with the power failure problem and the 9 red blinks code.  I understand about changing the two diaodes on the G board, but since this is a Japenese model TV that operates on a 100 volt transformer, I wanted to make sure that the values of the diaodes qouted in this thread are the same for my set.  It sounds like these components are on the power supply board, so I thought there might be a difference in the values for a 100 volt system vs a 120 volt system.

I do not have any schematics or service manuals, so I don't have any way to verify this.  The link for service manuals could not provide a manual for my system.

 Thanks,

Wallace

phototakinfool
phototakinfool's picture
Link said: So my problem is

Link said: So my problem is more compared to 9-blink diagnostic for the G board and not the 10-blink diagnostic for the D board ? Just making sure before I buy parts. Thank you I value your help!

HI

WERE U ABLE TO FIX THE PROBLEM OF 10 BLINKS WITH REPLACEMENT OF DIODES, MY TV HAS EXACTLY SAME PROBLEM, BLINKS 10 TIME, I HAVE ALREADY REPLACED IC 8005, BUT NO LUCK.

PLS HELP.

[email protected]

phototakinfool
phototakinfool's picture
LARY.

LARY.

MY SONY TV MODEL IS KP-FX432M91. IT IS AVAILBLE ONLY IN MIDDLE EAST/UK, its stby lt blinks 10 time and set would not switch on.I have bought the service manual. If u want I can send u.

I have Replaced Q8013,Q8014, IC8005 and resistor R8051 in D board , no luck. One thing very strange, If I keep the power off more than 8 hours, TV starts working normal, it comes on at first attempt and even with repeated on/ off, tv works normal but  if tv is kept off more than 15 minutes. Then problem starts and TV does not come on and to switch it On as earlier said you will have to wait for 8 hours. Next plan is to replace Driver IC8002, which is not availble in middle east.

Pls Pls Comment.

[email protected]

 

phototakinfool
phototakinfool's picture
OK IC 8002 has fixed the

OK IC 8002 has fixed the problem
[email protected]

Oranom
Oranom's picture
I think I'll Follow Arinc429

I think I'll Follow Arinc429 avenue to fix my 10 blink problem. Does anyone have the service manual for KV-HX32, I can only find the first 59 pages but need the wiring or block diagrams. Cheers

phototakinfool
phototakinfool's picture
Oranom Please do note that

Oranom Please do note that IC8002 is a 18 pins driver/Oscillator IC, which drives two transistors Q8013 and Q8014. These are located on D board also known as HV Power supply Board.
Before that pls do Chk that Resistance 8051 is in tact as it is a fusible resistor and supply DC voltage to both above mentioned transistors.By the way sony asked me 300 dollars to fix this problem and IC cost me only 15 dollars.Its equivallent IC from sharp is also availble which is much cheaper.I am quoting the numbers as I understand in most of sony TV numbering is same, wish u good luck.
I have one spare IC with me, I wish if I could send it to u, I am in middle East.

Oranom
Oranom's picture
Thanks Arinc429. I will check

Thanks Arinc429. I will check 8051.
My plan was to replace IC8002 with MCZ3001D (meant to be same as MCZ3001DB), soldering in an 18 pin socket first. Maybe even replace IC6501 with the same. I have found IC & socket on EBAY for US $5.00.
I'm in Australia

Oranom
Oranom's picture
Good News, Just completed the

Good News, Just completed the replacement of IC8002 and the TV works fine (1 hour ago) so will keep an eye on it, but hadn't worked for over a week.
This is what we did:
1.Bought 2 x MCZ3001D from WES components in Ashfield Sydney Australia for $11.20.
2.Friend had an 18 pin machine spun socket (not the crappy ones on EBAY).
3.Took back off TV
4.Put the 'D' board in service position
5.Noted which way IC8002 chip sat (Where position 1 is), also noted which 2 legs are not soldered.
6.Cut the black plastic that was covering this chip underneath (where D board screws into) as this is easier than removing the 'D' board.
7.De-soldered the IC8002 chip with a proper de-soldering iron.
8.Soldered in the 18 pin socket.
9. Set the chip into the socket.
10.Tested TV, worked fine.
11. Put it all back together, plugged in Tivo, DVD etc etc etc and all bloody good stuff.
12. I now also have a spare MCZ3001D which is taped to the back of the TV for future replacement, which is now easier since its now in a socket.

Overall this took about 20 mins. I had a quote by a Sony Certified repairer who said Google had served me well, and quoted FROM $250 to replace same chip only !!!!

Happy as Larry.
Thanks guys for this forum and your input. Special thanks to arinc429 for your valuable input. Q8013 and Q8014 were fine, but I did find the part number for them, both are 2SK2842.

phototakinfool
phototakinfool's picture
Oranom

Oranom
Great. Happy to know that u fixed the problem.
Arinc429 at Dubai.

boyd_dave
boyd_dave's picture
The 10 blink then continuous

The 10 blink then continuous 9 blink (10-9-9-9-9-9-9-9...) is fundamentally the same as the 9-9-9-9-9-9... blink.  You should follow the same procedure outlined by larry and replace the diodes.  Just remember to get the polarity right.  6301 shows the proper direction on the board itself.  6116 should have the cathode end (the side with the line on it) facing the simialr diode right next to it.

 I had the 10-9-9-9-9-9 and this fixed my set.  Thanks alot Larry!!!!!!

BIG-MRV
BIG-MRV's picture
10ERB20-TB5 for the D6301 - I

10ERB20-TB5 for the D6301 - I need to buy one of these in Canada and can't seem to get a hold of one anywhere? Anyone with any ideas? My board doesn't have a D6116? I know the reason it's doing this is because it's been sold and my new TV is hung on the wall at the new house!

Gary Johnson
Gary Johnson's picture
Hi

Hi

I too have the 10 flash then 9 flash issue and believe I know which two diodes I need, thanks to this forum.

I would be greatly interested in seeing a copy of the service manual though if at all possible (or even just the pages pertaining to this issue...if anyone can help, thanks!

Gary

Gfunk999
Gfunk999's picture
Hi All,

Hi All,

I have the same problem as described in this thread. However, I only see the D6301 diode, I cannot find D6116??? I have a capacitor that reads C6116 could this be it? Any help is appreciated.

Make and Model: Sony KP-57WS520

Thank you.

Gary

Gfunk999
Gfunk999's picture
Gfunk999

Gfunk999
sorry for the double post
Member Hi All,

I have the same problem as described in this thread. However, I only see the D6301 diode, I cannot find D6116??? I have a capacitor that reads C6116 could this be it? Any help is appreciated.

Make and Model: Sony KP-57WS520

Thank you.

Gary

boyd_dave
boyd_dave's picture
There is one diode on the top

There is one diode on the top of the board and it is big in comparison to the other one which is on the bottom of the board. The one on the bottom is tiny. Its the smallest damn thing I ever soldered. its like 1/16" square.

boyd_dave
boyd_dave's picture
no, its not a capacitor, its

no, its not a capacitor, its a diode.
its black. its pretty much square. its tiny. its on the bottome-side. there are others like it around it. dont mess it up. it has polarity.

Gfunk999
Gfunk999's picture
boyd_dave said: no, its not a

boyd_dave said: no, its not a capacitor, its a diode. its black. its pretty much square. its tiny. its on the bottome-side. there are others like it around it. dont mess it up. it has polarity.

No i'm pretty sure this is an electrolitic capacitor, it's a cylider at it reads C6116

boyd_dave
boyd_dave's picture
ya, c6116 is definitely not a

ya, c6116 is definitely not a diode.

you need to find d6116. d6116 is a tiny little back square on the bottom of the board. im not sure what else to tell you to help find it. there are others right by it that look the same. its about 1/16" square.

boyd_dave
boyd_dave's picture
send me your email address

send me your email address and ill send you the diagrams for the g board for a kp46wt520.

they might be a little different but it will probably help.

Larry Dillon
Larry Dillon's picture
I would like that picture if

I would like that picture if you don't mind? please send to [email protected]

boyd_dave
boyd_dave's picture
larry, are there any other

larry, are there any other diagrams you want?

Larry Dillon
Larry Dillon's picture
no thanks and yes I do

no thanks and yes I do appreciate the diagram, I did think it was a photo but this also gives me an idea to improve the DIY post. so if anyone who does this repair Pictures of the step by step would certainly help out with a great DIY article with your photos and of course credit goes to those who take the time and effort to submit them

Gfunk999
Gfunk999's picture
@boyd_dave, [email protected]

@boyd_dave, [email protected]

thank you boyd_dave

@larry please check out the links, i posted my pics

http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/7334/0606092335.jpg (This picture shows D6301, D6109, C6116) note: 6116 does not exist on this board

http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/5171/0606092334.jpg 

 http://img29.imageshack.us/img29/7423/0606092336.jpg (Full Picture)

Gfunk999
Gfunk999's picture
boyd_dave said: ya, c6116 is

boyd_dave said: ya, c6116 is definitely not a diode. you need to find d6116. d6116 is a tiny little back square on the bottom of the board. im not sure what else to tell you to help find it. there are others right by it that look the same. its about 1/16" square.

@boyd_dave

I just reread this reply, you said that the black square is at the bottom of the board, so that means I have to take out the board before I can see D6116? BTW, my TV is working right now, but I'm afraid to turn it off until I can identify these parts. lol thanks again.

Gary

boyd_dave
boyd_dave's picture
gary- ya you have to

gary- ya you have to physically remove the board from the tv to get at it. it is on the "underside" of the g board.

gfunk- c6116 is not correct. find d6116. you do not give a crap about c6116. d6116 is tiny on the underside.

:)

Gfunk999
Gfunk999's picture
boyd_dave said: gary- ya you

boyd_dave said: gary- ya you have to physically remove the board from the tv to get at it. it is on the "underside" of the g board. gfunk- c6116 is not correct. find d6116. you do not give a crap about c6116. d6116 is tiny on the underside. :)

lol ok thank you boyd_dave, will do, btw, my TV has been on for 3 days straight, is that a bad idea? I can't get to this until Friday or Saturday. :(

Gfunk999
Gfunk999's picture
So I turned off and turned on

So I turned off and turned on my TV, this time I get 9 quick red blinks, then all 10 after that, should I follow this procedure instead ?->Ten blinks - Check Q8014 and Q8013 for shorts, leakage, or bad solder connections on the " D" board. If the transistors are bad, check R8051 and IC8005, also on the "D" board.

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