Mitsubishi WS55511 will not turn on

This set has a few common problems that come to mind, but if you have not worked on printed circuit boards or do not know how to read a schematic, I highly advise you to find a local service depot for the repair of this set. Being that said: CHECK FOR 12 VOLTS DC (AC-OFF DETECT) AT PIN 3 OF PC9A21 IF MISSING REPLACE PC9A21 PART # 268P058020 ON THE POWER PCB.
CHECK FOR OPEN FUSES F9A04 AND F9A05 ON THE +24 AND -24 VOLT LINES.  IF THE FUSES ARE OPEN THE CONVERGENCE OUTPUT CIRCUIT WOULD BE SUSPECT.  CHECK FOR LEAKY C9A60 470 PF 1000 V PART # 154P400030, PARALLEL TO D9A57 ON THE POWER PCB.  Good Luck, and let us know how you made out.

Larry,

Thanks for the troubleshooting info. Question, with the back of the  unit open, where are the fuses located.

Thank

Just removed the back panel and located the fuses. Will let you know how things turn out.

Larry, first of all, thank you for pointing me in the right direction with the trouble shooting! I have not checked for 12 VOLTS DC (AC-OFF DETECT) at PIN 3 OF PC9A21 yet, but I found fuses F9A04 AND F9A05 open.  After finding the fuses open, I followed your instruction and checked  C9A60 for leakage. After locating C9A60, I found a hard off white substance, simular to the appearance of liquid nail, that appears to have flow between C9A60 and C9A58, sticking the two capacitors together. This substance has further flowed onto the PCB board extending 1/2 inch onto the circuit board. Is this hard substance the leakage you were referring to? If this is normal, there is not other leakage on the PCB. I welcome your expert advise, if I should only replace the fuses or include a new C9A60 replacement too?

Remove the capacitors and certainly clean the board off the best way you can with 95% alcohol with a cotton swab and replace the capacitors as well.  If this is the case you could still have bad convergence IC's.   Best ting to do, is after you replace the capacitors, and clean up the printed circuit boards, take the main fuse out and across the terminals, clip a 100 watt light bulb across the open fuse terminals and turn on the set.  If the bulb blinks on and off there bis a short in the set, if the buld glows bright and then goes dim, replace the fuses and see what happens.  If the bulb glows bright and does not go dim, the convergence IC's are most likely bad.

The material that appears to have leaked from the capacitor is as hard as dried Elmer’s glue. Will the alcohol dissolve the substance or should I attempt to carefully pull it off the board before cleaning with the alcohol? Also is the main fuse you refer to is the one located adjacent to the power cord attachment point on the PCB? Again, thanks for the help.

That is mpst likely the clue that the manufacturer had on the board to hold in the part during assembly of the board. before the put the board through a solder bath.  Check the convergence IC's if those fuses are open

Where are the convergence IC's located?

They are black in color, and stand up against a large metal heat sink, and start with the letters STK

Thanks again for the direction. Forgot to ask, HOW do you slide the ciruuit board tray out for access? It's loose but will not pull out.

You pull the entire chassis out.  It should show you how in the service manual.

Hi, I also own a ws55511 tv, I have the blinking green light for approx 30 seconds then goes out. The light is next to the power button on front. The Tv will not power on. I do not have an owners manual for this. Im pretty handy with most projects. I can figure out schematics and solder ok. I was told over the phone with a person at best buy that the problem may be a bulb? Seems others have the same problem and Im reluctant to purchase a bulb if its the fuses or capacators. Can you send me a manual or further advice on this matter?

I too need the pic and manual to replace the capacators. I  will try and be sure to get back and post after trying the fix.   my e-mail is [email protected] Your the man Larry Dillon thanks.

simitom, if the green light stops flashing after you plug the set in, thats an indication that the DM is working properly. You probably have other issues with your set. Check the fuses F9A02, F9A03, F9A04, and F9A05 in the power supply.  If one or more of them are open let me know.  or Good Luck

20f12, the info will be sent out to you in a little bit. Good Luck and Happy New Year.

Hi, I have a ws42311, i found the f9a05 fuse open, replaced tv played for

3 hours, and i try to program a unveral remote for the tv and hit power

on the unverial remote and set turned off, about a half hour later

i went back to turn tv on again and i get the green blinking lite, code 22.

Any ideas, caps, stk ic's. Any help and info would be great. My email is [email protected]

If you found the F9A05 fuse blown, you should have replaced the convergence IC's before replacing the fuse. Hopefully you have not caused any further damage to the power supply or the convergence circuit. Fuses do not blow in these sets for no good reason. REPLACE THE IC's FIRST! Then the fuse. Good luck

Larry,

I am having similar issues on my ws-55511 to what I see in this thread, orginally I had the eternal blinking green light and have since replaced the caps on my DM module, now the blinking light is gone within 20 seconds.

Now the issue is 3 seconds after powering on it powers right back off. I'm thinking it's a power supply/convergence IC issue or fuse issue. While I see the boards are mounted on a sliding chasis without trying to pry to much I do not see a way to remove the boards without undoing every cable and screw.

I was wondering if you wouldn't mind sending me a copy of the service manual if it is available. my email is [email protected].

Any help is appreciated, thanks for all the infomation thus far.

I feel a little foolish. I overlooked the one (and only) screw that was holding the slide out in place. lol. I assumed it was there to hold the two piece of the slide together. Well, with that said I should be on my way toward making my set work once more. But would still love any information you can toss my way. Once again thanks for all the help.

HI,

New here...We are going to do a Bob Villa and fix our Mits WS55511. I am having the same light comes on solid and then turns off. No blinking and we are getting a 2 2 error code. We are figuring it is the IC's. I think from reading we have all we need in reagards to the reapair. I just want to check and see if there is any kind of a special heat sink compund you have to use. I looked online and they are all different. I like the price of the tube at Radio Shack, plus I can get it locally. I just want to make sure I do not need anything special.

that will wrk fine but I use computer grade. It may well be I never have read the package on that one yet.

Thanks Larry...I did want to ask about a new thing we found when we were looking closer. Right next to the pico fuses (both are open) there are several black cylinders. Between 2 of those cylinders we are seeing a creamy colored, hard substance that goes on to the board. It cannot be removed because it is very hard. Is this normal, or did one of those cylinders leak? The cylinder itself looks fine. Thanks!!

no that is most likely silicon adheshive.

Great...I ordered the parts today (took your advice and orderd Sanyo) and I am pretty sure the IC's are my problem. Both of the pico fuses are open so that makes me think IC's. I have the service manual, but is there any special tips to removing the chassis? Once replaced how hard is it to align the picture? Thanks for the help...

Have the same problem with our WS55511. Will occasionally stay on for up to 4 hrs. but most of the time will not stay on at all..Mitsubishi Authorized Tech has said that the part needed to repair the set is no longer available. This set has this known malfunction and all parts made by Mitsubishi for this repair have been used up. He contacted Mitsubishi and told them that the part is no longer available. They are looking for it..he says they won't find it. So we are waiting on Mitsubishi..we are basically being told that we have a $3,000 set that is not repairable..

We had the IC's replaced and we replaced the two fuses and still have the same problem. Now after checking it looks like both F9A04 and F9A05 are both fine, but F9A02 is open. What does that mean? The person who did the sodering is a professional so I am sure he did a good job. Plus I am thinkking that if the IC's went bad again those fuses would be blown. Help??

fth fuses are blown again, you have a short in the plus or minus power supply, I would check all the choke cols as well as the capacitors in the minus and plus 24 volt supply or one of the IC's is bad? Or there could be a solder short or solder splash in the convergence circuit?

Larry,

Can you please tell me how to check all of that. The IC's were fairly easy with a bit of research. This all seems foreign to me. I figured out how to check the fuses, so I am hopeful that with a little guidance I will be able to check the things listed. Should we get a new chip and fuses and start all over? I should also tell you that when we turn the set on now the green lcd light stays on a bit longer and you can hear what I would call a hissing sound near the IC chip. Any ideas? I really apprecite it. THANKS!!

i came across this post while looking for ways to fix my tv i have the same problem many of you have i have a mitsubishi model ws-b55 i turn the unit on and the green light blinks for ten seconds then turns off i am looking for someone who might still have the service manuals and schmatics for this unit as well as any part numbers and pictures to help fix my unit times are tuff and i can not go get a new tv or even call a repairman out if anyone can help please email me at [email protected] many people have replaced caps and fuses and boards like i said any help would be great thank you all for your time

Larry,
I've gained alot of insite after reading all the replies. I have a ws-55857 and have the same power up issue where the green led goes off after a few seconds. my F4 has very high resistence and F5 is completely open. I traced the schem to the conv gen chip. should i repl the fuses first or the chips then the fuses. What chips do I order and what are the part numbers? How and where do I order them from? Do you know the cost? Thank You so much for your help. It's great getting intelligent, accurrate technical advice. If anyone needs the serv manl and schem manl for the ws55857 (covers other models too) just email me at [email protected] i paid 15 bucks , but i'll send it to anyone for free. :)

Thanks to all,
Rob from Too darn hot California