Philips 42" #42FD9932

I have the same problem with my Phillips 42FD9932. Were you able to correct the problem? If so, what did you replace? I have contacted Phillips Customer Service and received "NO" help at all. Perhaps they don't want to admit to a design error.
Thanks.

Wow, I feel like family - so much in common with you guys!

I too have a Philips 42FD9932 (actually 42FD993499) that shuts off but mine goes something like this:

When the unit is plugged in the red 'standby' LED comes on as usual. I power on the unit from the remote and the power LED turns green, I hear two clicks from two relays on the power board (about a second apart) and the 6 cooling fans come on to full power. After approx 2 seconds I get another relay on the power board that clicks on and off one time very quickly along with a very brief flash on the screen. Afterwards the fans power down and I hear the original 2 power relays click off (again about a second apart) followed by the red power led flashing once a second.

I'm fairly skilled in electronics so I've taken my plasma display completely apart. I've checked for the obvious burnt or cracked components and found nothing. I've measured voltages at all the individual board power plugs and test points and I seem to have proper voltage across the boards (+380V off the main power board and +180V and -165V as listed at the test points for the actual plasma panel, along with the requisite +5 and +12 as also listed on all boards). I've disconnected various power plugs to possibly isolate certain boards with no luck so I don't think its power related at this point. To me it seems more like a protection circuit is kicking in and powering off the unit.

Did either of you get your problem resolved? If so what did you do to fix it? I called our local repair facility and they charge $200 just to look at it. The guy I spoke with on the phone (who wasn't totally interested in what I was saying) thinks it's the power driver board and he quoted me $960 to replace it. OUCH! There's no way I'm spending $1100 to repair this tv so any schematics, website links, or troubleshooting tips are greatly appreciated because for now I'm back to watching my 25" Sharp TV from 1989. Oy...

Thanks in advance!

Sir Slick

I have exactly the same problem.  I used mine for about a year, then put it into storage.  It worked for about 1 month, but now I have the red light problem.  Any advice would be so appreciated. 

Unfortanatly guys I have good news and i have bad news.. when a Plasma set fails, Its not always the power supply, as a matter of fact unless there was a power surge or a lightning strike around the area and caused a power fluctuation, the power supply is probably not the problem, as they build these as a very stable part of these TV's. What does happen as these peeps are complaining, is in the drive circuits. There are many many types and parts to the driver circuits in these sets. There are also the shutdown or protection circuits built in to these circuits that are suppose to protect those circuits from blowing out but as history tells it, these protection circuits, according to service records, as well as real time repairs ,are showing that these protection circuits are causing these sets to fail. Some sets have LED or Light emmitting diodes to tell a tech if a circuit failed or not. As on start up of a pioneer Plasma set theres several LEDs on differant PC board that will light up red then green to tell the tech what circuit started up good and then failed. Yoiu really need the service manual for each set, as this should be listed in a chart or in the the service advisory on troubleshooting. Always remember folks, a TV set Of any kind is not a place for a non pro or unexperienced to play with or experiment with . My advice on these sets??? When you buy them, if the sets only have a 90 day warranty on them, Buy the extended warranty as as sure as it will be tomorrow , You will need service, Most likly before then end of your warranty period ,and it will pay for itself in the long run. OH and Do not let the person you speak to put off an intermittant repair, as they will, untill your warrantys up and then you call after the warranty? oh too bad your warrantys over!! Dont give in take charge as its your set you spent alot of your hard earned cash on. Good luck and Please if any peeps get there sets fixed please get back to us and let us all know what you found out??!!

My Phillips 42FD9932 is now collecting dust in the closet. Wow, what an expensive dust collection device. I went out and purchased a 37" Sharp LCD for a little more than the estimated cost of repairing the Phillips. No more Phillips products for me. The company does not stand behind it's products and quality is questionable.

I too have similar symptoms with my Philips 32FD9954. If i heat up the heatsink of the MOSFET (using a hair dryer) then the set can be turned on. I already replaced the MOSFET (STY34NB50) and several electrolytic caps but still the same. In the heatsink, other than the MOSFET, are also other parts like the high voltage bridge diode pack and a transistor like package (TO-220) that is a diode - looks like a temperature sensor.

I found a nearly identical schematic (http://www.eserviceinfo.com/downloads.... Maybe you could also take a look and try to analyze the problem, seems it's really on the protection circuit.

[email protected]

somebody in ebay is selling a repair kit. Wanna give it a try??
http://cgi.ebay.com/PHILIPS-PLASMA-TV...

Description

THIS AUCTION IS FOR PHILIPS PLASMA TV POWER SUPPLY KIT. IF YOU ALREADY READING THIS, IT IS VERY POSSIBLE YOU HAVE FOUND OUT HOW MUCH PHILIPS WANTS FOR NEW BOARD.OUTRAGEOUS 1200 DOLLARS RETAIL! PHILIPS DOES NOT SELL THIS KIT!
IT IS UNIQUE AND IT WILL FIX MOST OF THE SET PROBLEMS. COMMON FAILURES ARE NO POWER, INTERMITTENT POWER, SHUTS DOWN ON POWER UP, WON'T TURN ON WHEN IT'S COLD, ETC.

KIT COMES WITH DETAILED INSTRUCTIONS AND POWER SUPPLY SCHEMATIC DIAGRAM. TECHNICAL QUESTIONS REGARDING THIS AUCTION ARE WELCOMED!

PLEASE MAKE SURE YOUR MODEL IS ON LIST! THIS KIT WILL NOT WORK ON 42FD9932!!!!

HERE IS THE LIST OF COVERED MODELS:

32FD9954/17 37FD9954/17 37FD9954
32FD9954/99 32PH9955 42FD9934/17
32FW9915/35 42FD9934/99 42FW9975/35
32FW9975/35 42FD9954/17 42FD9934
32PH995599 42FW9915/35

IF YOU NEED HELP FIXING PHILIPS 50FD9955 OR 50FD9934, LET ME KNOW I CAN HELP YOU!

i already solved my Philips Plasma power supply problem. if you are interested in knowing, just email me.  valerio.v(at)gmail.com.

Valerio

Hi everyone!!!

same problem here!!!

I have a 32FD9954 whick I was really happy with it but  started with several clicks before the green light came on and then now no clicks and no green light sometimes even the red light goes off, Valerio,  I sent you an E-mail a couple of days ago but I guess it did not go throught, basically I wanted to know if you got the kit from Koshevo the guy from E-bay or if you found a way to fix this any other way.

Any help will be really appreciated.

Thanks

JCS

Hi JCS and all,

I didn't buy the ebay kit, nor did i send my unit to Philips, although
mid last year, the philips technician came but my set turned on, so i
decided not to send it to them. Later on the problem deteriorated.

Fortunately, i found an almost identical schematic diagram in the
internet, so i started troubleshooting. I'm an electronics engr by
profession doing Computer stuff so i know what i'm doing.

To make it short, i replaced most of the electrolytic caps and mylar
caps in the Preconditioner stage and VsVa Power supply stage. And
finally the PWM Oscillator IC (MC34067P).

You have to make sure that the Preconditioner stage is running ok,
with an output of 380 to 395 volts DC. There are two fuses on the
board (in my 32FD9954), one is for the mains AC located near the mains
connector coming from RF filter (two wire connector- large wires), the
other fuse is in the middle of the board. You measure the DC voltage
on this fuse on the middle of the board and it should be about
380volts or above.

The real culprit is the PWM IC. Initially i replaced the MOSFET
(STY34NB50F) in the Preconditioner, then the caps, then finally the
IC. Then it worked!!!  Just replace the electrolytics near the PWM IC
(2.2u, 4.7u, 100u, a couple of 1000u)

I think the design problem is that the IC is nearly located to the
heatsink which generates lots of heat. The IC deteriorated in time and
the electrolytes in the capacitor evaporated due to the excessive heat
inside the case. I'm thinking of incorporating 120cm computer fans at
the back to suck down the heat.

Happy troubleshooting. I have the necessary diagrams, but i think
there's no need to study it much since you can just replace the parts i mentioned.

regards,

Valerio

You could simply use hi temp capacitors instead of the regulae types.  I know they are available for all values.

Hi Valerio and everyone!!!

I just pulled out the MC34067P from the board (I am waitng fot the new part to arrive) the caps seems to be OK, one thing it called my attention was that pin #3 and 5 (if you read them from left to right in the bottom row)are in short reading 1.5 ohms in the board I tested them before and after removing the IC, I do not know if this is normal since I do not have the schematics and I wonder is you have an idea about if this is normal, I do not want to put the new IC and fry it 'cos of this.

Please help!!!

my TV is DEAD!!!!

Thanks

JCS

Is it the real pin 3 and 5. Check from this datasheet. Maybe it is the GND. This stage (oscillator drive)is using Power GND which is the heatsink of the MOSFETs.

http://www.ortodoxism.ro/datasheets/motorola/MC34067P.pdf

The repair kit sold in eBay contains 10 electrolytic caps, so i also just replaced mine. Coz the issue with the caps is that the electrolytes dry up due to excessive heat. The cap values deteriorate in time, so i would suggest to change them, especially with high temp types (105 deg C).

Good luck in your troubleshooting,

Valerio

Hi JCristobals,

Here's the link again for the schematic.

http://www.eserviceinfo.com/downloadsm/23423/Philips_.html

Hi there i also have one of these sets 42fd9932 and have a problem

where the set will switch off 10 seconds after switch on.

Now i am a t.v. tech and have spent quite some time on this problem.

The fans are all running fine and that is not the problem.

I then checked the main power board  and replaced all the electrolytics the i.c. was a mc 33369p and this made no difference.

The main voltage rails are all within spec.

I then started disconnecting the main power leads to each individual board and eventually stumbled upon the video processor board which is mounted on the right hand side of the power suply module.

when i disconnect the black plug it will switch on and stay on, of course it wont display a picture. I now had to narrow down whether it was the video board or the screen panel itself, i disconnected all the plug on plugs that connect the screen to the circuit board and turned it on and it still had the same problm, so that means the screen itself is okay.

removing the eeprom of the video board and reconnecting the black plug lead to it will keep the set running . 

my final verdict is that the video board is down and is triggering the protection circuit, lifting the base of q612 will disable the protection which will allow for easier fault identification.

does anyone out there have a good video board for one of these.

to sir slick i believe that your fault is also the video proccesor board as your symptoms are identical to mine.

thanks for all of the postings on this.  i am not an electrical engineer but won't mind rippping apart my tv to check something.  when the tv did work i remember that in colder temperatures it took several tries of the off/on cycle before the picture would click and stay on.  it was as if i needed to "prime" the set.  i don't know if this piece of info is irrelevant to my red light problem or not. thanks.

fit is actually the SMPS IC trying to start. The pre-conditioner stage is usually ok (380volts output). After i replaced mine, the set can turn on.

Another person with the same symptom also replaced the same IC after i informed him of the solution, now his set is working as well. 

There may be a situation that the video board have the problem, but the symptom for this is different, you can actually see the picture for a few seconds then the set turns off. Whereas the problem with the VsVa board is that your set takes sometime to turn on (i heated it before with a hair dryer) and after it finally turns on, it can run for hours in a normal operation until you turn it off, then back to the hard turn on issue.

The problem in my set is the pdp display.

The i.c.s. on the ribbon cable are burned out which confirms panel failure.

Error code 7 is usually an indication of this.

hi there

i have also a 42fd9932 plasma tv, en the same red led after a 10 minutes off playing

open the plasma screen en check the voltages, but the 380 volt is a little bit low, it's only 364volt, instead of 380volt or higher

how can i fix my high power again, or what is broken

sorry about mij bad englisch

greetings barry from the netherlands 

I need a laymans straight forward summary on Valerio V solution please. I can solder and do electonics, but not a wizard and do nto get all this. A. an anyone spell it out simple for me before I start? B. Can anyone tell me where to get these parts? VALERIO V SOLUTION PARAPHRASED: "First, I replaced the MOSFET (STY34NB50) and several electrolytic caps, but still the same. 2 Months Later I solved my Philips Plasma power supply problem. I replaced most of the electrolytic caps and mylar caps in the Preconditioner stage and VsVa Power supply stage. And finally the PWM Oscillator IC (MC34067P). You have to make sure that the Preconditioner stage is running ok, with an output of 380 to 395 volts DC. There are two fuses on the board (in my 32FD9954), one is for the mains AC located near the mains connector coming from RF filter (two wire connector- large wires), the other fuse is in the middle of the board. You measure the DC voltage on this fuse on the middle of the board and it should be about 380volts or above. The real culprit is the PWM IC. Initially I replaced the MOSFET (STY34NB50F) in the Preconditioner, then the caps, then finally the IC. Then it worked!!! Just replace the electrolytics near the PWM IC (2.2u, 4.7u, 100u, a couple of 1000u). It is actually the SMPS IC trying to start. The pre-conditioner stage is usually ok (380volts output). After i replaced mine, the set can turn on. Another person with the same symptom also replaced the same IC after i informed him of the solution, now his set is working as well."

Sorry, let me space it out better. ----- I need a laymans straight forward summary on Valerio V solution please. I can solder and do electonics, but not a wizard and do nto get all this. ----- A. Can anyone spell it out simple for me before I start? ----- B. Can anyone tell me where to get these parts? ----- VALERIO V SOLUTION PARAPHRASED: "First, I replaced the MOSFET (STY34NB50) and several electrolytic caps, but still the same." 2 Months Later. "I solved my Philips Plasma power supply problem. I replaced most of the electrolytic caps and mylar caps in the Preconditioner stage and VsVa Power supply stage. And finally the PWM Oscillator IC (MC34067P)." ----- "You have to make sure that the Preconditioner stage is running ok, with an output of 380 to 395 volts DC. There are two fuses on the board (in my 32FD9954), one is for the mains AC located near the mains connector coming from RF filter (two wire connector- large wires), the other fuse is in the middle of the board. You measure the DC voltage on this fuse on the middle of the board and it should be about 380volts or above." ----- "The real culprit is the PWM IC. Initially I replaced the MOSFET (STY34NB50F) in the Preconditioner, then the caps, then finally the IC. Then it worked!!! Just replace the electrolytics near the PWM IC (2.2u, 4.7u, 100u, a couple of 1000u)." ----- "It is actually the SMPS IC trying to start. The pre-conditioner stage is usually ok (380volts output). After i replaced mine, the set can turn on. Another person with the same symptom also replaced the same IC after i informed him of the solution, now his set is working as well."

For Barry, the 364Volts may still work.

For StoutLager and Barry,  to cut to the chase, just replace the MC34067P IC. I ordered mine through Farnell in UK! You have to find where to order the parts yourselves.

 Happy tinkering,

 Valerio (valerio.v[at]gmail)

Thanks for the answer yo I am sure several questions about this one! 

Well Valerio, thank you, that sure makes it simpler. I am ordering, I will hunt it down inside and replace....thank you much

But it may help if you would also replace the electrolytic caps related to the power supply, especially around that IC. No need to replace those big expensive ones. 1000uF is the largest value that i did. And somebody suggested to swap them with high temp caps, those 105 deg C ratings. It makes sense so it would last longer and less prone to temperature problems.

 keep me in the loop,

 Valerio

Dear Valerio...by "caps" I am guesing you mean capacitors?...Remember, not an electronics expert, but am resourcefull and can solder....can you spell it out in laymans terms please....thanks....I am guessing again that electrolytic caps are a special type of capacitor?....do you have part numbers for me to order?.. thanks again.

Yes, when i said caps, it means capacitor. The ones i replaced were electrolytic capacitors. You better identify them first in your circuit board. The values ranges from 1uF, 2.2uF, 100uF to 1000uF. Although i tested the existing capacitors using my digital multitester with capacitance meter and all showed the correct values, nevertheless, better change them since they are the ones that easily degrade in time, and also they're cheap. Typical electrolytic capacitors are rated 85 deg C, but those high temperature ones are 105 deg C. If you can get hold of those high temp ones, the better.

regards,

Hi, i have a philips 37PF9975/12 and this displays the same symptoms as a lot of these sets, it starts up ok then after about 15 mins it goes to standby for 10mins then comes on again with the led flashing red codes 1 long and 4 short but working fine, then 10-15 mins later to standby again, i have downloaded the service manuals from www.electromaniacs.com ( they have schematics for everything) and from what i can gather (me not being an electronics wiz) it enterprets the codes as a problem on the PSU with the 5v supply, if anybody could shed any more light on this problem for me i would be very grateful

I think Im having the same issue as massahosa . Here are my symptoms:

 When the TV actually does power on and stay on:

* The screen will "flash" snowy type distortion. for about the first 5 minutes. It slowly subsides to just a few sprinkles of snow type distortion here and there.

 * The picture looks very "Solarized". Especially on sceens with lots of white in them.

When the tv is not working almost at all:

* Picture will come on, for about 2 maybe up to 10 seconds if I am lucky.
* After the 2 - 10 seconds the picture just goes away completely. (LED is still green).
* About 3 seconds after picture cuts off, the unit goes into Blinking red light of death.

I have been trying to find the part Valerio V suggested replacing. Thought I found it at one website but they sent me the wrong part and did not cancel! :(   Im going to the local elecronics store to pick up some good quality caps for now and will try that... If not working will try the chip as well... but is there anything else anyone can recomend based on my symptoms? Oh yeah, mine is actually an 42FD9954/17S. Does anyone know what the difference is?

P.S. - I got this unit for free from a friend that owns a tv repair shop. Im not sure what the actual original issue was for it comming through but at the time it was under Philips warrentee. They had him replace the plasma screen, the power supply, and Im not sure but I think maybe the small signal board. After all that Philips gave up and sent their customer a new unit and told my friend to feild scrap it so thats how I got it.. but the point is its a new screen, and a refurbed power supply.