Feel like I am so close to fixing this problem.... BGLOD gone, fan starts up when I power up, but no sound and no picture.... error code 12 (no problems detected).... when I disassembled everything again, the only thing obvious was there was no connecting male end to the female end of "PA" on the DM board...or it might have been the FMT board? What have I missed? Any help would be GREATLY appreciated!! It's driving me crazy!! LOL!
Replaced 4 suspect capacitors on the DM board....
The power and the FMT board also have caps that go bad http://www.techlore.com/download/25899/MOST-BAD-CAPACITORS-in-MITS.-DLP-...
OK....so I replaced the capacitors highlighted on the DM, FMT and PWR boards with the exception of C9A37 and C9A38....the replacement capacitors that I received for these two appear slightly shorter (digikey part #P5523-ND, 3300 UF 10V Radial) than the two on the PWR board. Additionally, the two on the board did not appear to be bad (no bulging), so have replaced a total of 12 (1000 UF 35V 105degree are the new capacitors), 4 each on DM, FMT, and PWR boards. Power sequence operates normally....plug in set, flashing green power light for about I minute then turns off. Hit power again and steady green power indicator, DM fan starts, but still no picture (lamp doesn't turn on) and no sound. Error code indicates "12"... No problems found. Could it be the 2 capacitors I didn't replace? Are the replacements I purchased the correct ones (before I go back in....Lol). Thanks for all of your help and input!! Also I still haven't located the wire which gets connected to the PA receptacle on the DM board....is this receptacle not used ?
If replacing those capacitors that you forgot dont fix it,the only other advice I can give you is go to page 35 of the service manual and start tracing voltage.
as long as the capacitors have the same specifications the physical size of them shouldnt matter.
With the experience I've had with the 2 wd-xx725 that I have fixed, with what your saying the dm and fmt boards are working fine and booting up (no bglod). The first time BOTH of mine were fired up after the repair I got no picture and no sound like your saying. DON'T unplug it!! Hit the reset once, wait for the light to stop blinking, and try to turn it on again. See if the lamp fires by looking in the back. Second time with both mine the lamp fired the second time but still no picture, it just looked black. Then hit the reset 1 more time wait for the blinking green light to stop then it should fire up with the blue screen. That's when you jump up and down. I think it's the chassis reloading software to the other components. Then plug your cable and everything else in and off you go.
Neal....
Neal...
Thanks for responding to the thread I started... Tried what you said, still no sound or picture....lamp doesn't come on....do all fans need to be hooked up in order for lamp to start up? Still have the back of set off, and exhaust or cooling fan directly behind lamp is not reconnected as of yet because it mounts to the back cover.... Trying to think of any possible reasons to get this blasted thing working again! Ha! with BGLOD resolved, seems like startup is stalled at level of actually turning on lamp and TV...
Any thought are much appreciated!
Dan
Yes, plug in that fan and let the rear plate hang off. I can't belive it didn't give you a flashing light for that. I was working on mine with the whole chasis hanging out. Your real close, just got to figure out the hang up. Had a few beers so im off for tonight :-0 I'll check back tomorow after church and see how you made out. If all else fails check all your connections again just to make sure you didn't miss any, them damn cables between the boards also, they can really screew with you. I ended up cleaning them for mine to fix a color issue.
Neal....
Should the fan in question turn on as soon as the TV power is turned on? Or is it only after a certain temperature is reached.....trying to figure out if fan has gone bad or not.... Also, I have rechecked all connections....I can't locate the wire that plugs into the decorator marked PA on the DM board.... Any thoughts as to where the wire originates? Or is this just a redundant receptacle.... Thanks again!!
Dan
Don't have a dm board that I can look at without tearing apart a tv to get the name on the connector but there is a connector half way up on the right side that nothing plugs into. I'm working on checking the fan now. Give me an hour or so.
Ok, the small fan at the rear of the balast and the larger fan on the backplate both come on when the power is turned on. There is also the fan at the top of the chassis that comes on when the tv is pluged in. You should get a blinking red light if the fan is not pluged in or no good, you didn't get one? Also one other thing I was thinking, The usb connector at the top of the chassis, you did plug it in? It's an easy one to tuck in the tv somewhere on disassembly and forget.
Thanks, Neal....
That is the receptacle in question ...about 1/2 way up on the DM board...
Glad to eliminate that as the problem:)
Dan
Hey Neal...
Fan on top of chassis powers on as soon as TV is plugged in.... The larger fan on the backplate does not..... So guess I'll run to radioshack and see if they might have a replacement fan? I did remember to plug in the USB and other plug on top of the chassis...
No red blinking light either....just a nice solid green power light and 12 (all is normal) error code...
Ugh!!!
Dan
The fan on the back plate comes on when the tv is turned on not just pluged in. I wouldn't run to Radio shack just yet. First check to make sure you have power at the fan connector or trace it back to the board and check there. Then if you have power get a fan. Alot cheaper on ebay. According to the service manual you should have a red blinking light if the fan doesn't work so I'm guessing it's something before that. Every time you plug it in try the reset button after the first time trying to start it. I'm going to see if I can trace that circut on the board diagrams.
Oh ya, If I recall correctly these fans come off plugs on the right upper part of the power board. I'll still check the diagrams.
ok, connector "PK" on the power board does ballast and exhaust fans. pins 1,4 and 7 should have 10v with pins 7-9 not actually going to anything. Then connector "PJ" to lamp and DM engine fans you shold have 12v on pins 1 and 4. If your missing power there are 2 fuses, one I can see is 3a tne other I'll have to trace down if you need me to. Let me know how you make out.
Ok, so I switched out exhaust fan with the one I know is working on top of the chassis (DM fan?). The exhaust fan DOES work, so I'm guessing (the operative word....guessing....LOL) that there is a problem with only the PK connection? Checked that and it is well seated. If the ballast fan is supposed to come on when TV powered on, don't think it is....not sure when the lamp fan is supposed to come on in the sequence of things, but it's hard to see for sure. Where are the fuses in question? Near the PK and PJ connectors on the power board? What do they look light or how are they labeled? Am still being religious about trying the reset after powering on, but still no luck.
I can't thank you enough for your help!! Just about ready to throw in the towel for today and watch some football.... Oh.....also...am I correct in assuming that my replacement of capacitors and soldering is OK since the darned BGLOD is gone?
Do you have a voltage meter? Your gonna need one :-) Next thing I would do is check those pins for voltage. One other thing you may want to check, sometimes from pulling apart and putting together so many times one of the pins in these connectors can get bent over on any of these boards and you don't realize it. I had a solid red light, error code 44 after my bglod and that turned out to be the problem with that. The fuses are most likely those little pico fuses on the board. They should be numbered F9A09 and F9A08. You will usually see "fuse warning" printed on the board and pointing to the different fuses. You may want to test voltage there or ring them out. If the blinking green light goes away any the set powers up, to the best of my knowledge the fmt and dm boards are working. Just keep in mind I've fixed two of these but I'm no expert, but very persistant :-). I really can't understand why your getting no code at all.
Evil and Neal....
If I remove the air filter cover from the right side of the TV, I DO get a flashing yellow light with error code 33....once I replace it, get the flashing green light for about one minute, then solid green power light. So is this an indication that power IS getting to the microprocessor?
Dan
I'm pretty sure if the microprocessor wasn't working you'd still have bglod. If you have a volt meter you'll be able to rule some things out. If you have to buy one make sure it will read d/c volts. I bought mine at Benny's for $14 as my work meter only does a/c. There are a bunch of places you can easily test power on the power board.
Went out and got a multimeter.... Tested all fuses (1-10) on power board, all seem to be ok... Any thoughts? I guess I should check all fuses on all boards next? Is there any way to check capacitors that I replaced?
Thanks....
Still not giving up.....LOL! But gotta get to work....ha!
Dan
Did you check voltage or continuity on the fuses? Did you test for voltage on the power board where the service manual shows? If you don't have the proper service manual pm me your email and I'll send you one. Also you could check those pins for voltage to the fans I told you about the other day just to see whats going on there but check the points where the service manual shows 1st it may rule something out quick.
Well, back at it after working all week...LOL! Thanks so much for the service manuals.... still having same issue, but measured voltage on PWB board test points as per page 17 of manual #1, and have no voltage readings at points TP12V, TP5V, TP3.3V and TP10V....these are all on the upper right quadrant of PWB, and test points closest to the 4 capacitors I replaced. All fuses on PWB read 0.000 (which they should?), so not quite sure what to think....bad solder connections on my part (I am an amateur solderer....LOL)? Capacitors all look good...still no BGLOD, but no picture or sound....Exhaust fan on back panel still doesn't fire up, so do you think my problem is with the area in question on the PWB and DM module all OK?
THanks again!
Dan
Btw....Tested for voltage at test points with both the power Off and power On.....
I have been working on a wd 62725 as well. replaced all of the 1000 uf 16v per Larry's documentation, also replaced the 3300 uf caps and three 1000uf 10v on the terminal pcbs. still receiving the bglod. fuse checks out on the power pcb. the dm fan comes on when plugged in. tried to get voltages on the power pcb but just used the chassis ground and i didnt get any good readings. is there a specific ground i need to use? i am really starting to get frustrated. I have repaired many video arcade monitors, but am at a loss with this monster.
thanks!
Cueball how many times it blinks could be an indication of whats wrong with it.
It's the bglod right now.. I was re-reading this thread and I think I was trying to read the power supply with a/c but should be d/c, right?
The frustrating thing is that the tv is 15 minutes away so when I realized that it should be d/c. Now I can't just run out to the garage and try something else.
It depends on where it is that your testing for voltage,if its before the transformer/diode bridge its ac but if its after the transformer/diode bridge its Direct Current{for the most part},either way it should have read something.If you had your meter set to Alternating Current while you were measuring Direct Current it would read abnormally high,almost double the voltage of what it actually is,but would read none the less.
I checked voltage at all test points. Readings are in range. Like Dan, I don't have readings at TP12v, TP5v, TP3.3v and TP 10v - all of which are near the replaced caps.
However- unlike Dan, I still have the Bglod. Caps were replaced on DM, FMT, PS, and Term1&2.
I pulled the USB and still have the bglod. I the replaced that and pulled FG off of the FMT. Still have the bglod. Fuses checked on pwb as well.
Any suggestions for where to check? I am too far in to turn back now. Thanks!
cueball,
Did you ever figure out why you don't have the +5 or +10 volts? I have the same thing and I was wondering what you found?
Thanks
I too am working on my 62725. I am running into the same issues as everyone here...BGLOD, replace caps, and still have the BGLOD. I called a couple of repair centers today. One tech I spoke to (that actually answered my questions) said that it was a waste of time\money. He was very familiar with the issue, before I even finished describing it to him, he told me the correct model. The whole DM and FMT chassis will need to be replaced. I may have him or some other company come by and see what can be done.I'm assuming that when the caps burst, that some other component downstream got fried.
I would prefer to not spend the money on a new TV (would be nice) I want what I paid for to last more than 5 years.
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