If you dont fit a 105 deg capacitor or higher, your repair will not last long. You should also replace all the capacitors of the same brand that are on the power supply as they will all fail the same way. This is a very well known issue in the TV (CRT and flat panel ) and computer motherboard and power supply industries.
Also make sure you reglue the capacitor with some acid free silastic as was done originally. That stops the solder joints from cracking later (from vibration)
Finally - gove the power supply at least 30 minutes, preferably an hour, after unplugging the mains lead before you touch the power supply. There are some lethal voltages on some of the other capacitors that needs time to bleed away. It should all be gone in 10 minutes, but dont bet on it.
Take your time , the capacitor is soldered both sides of the board to large copper track areas. Heat each leg with a normal soldering iron, being careful to not knock any of the other components off with the heat ( they desolder one leg as you heat up the pad), and then gently rock the cap as you heat each leg. Basically you heat a leg, wriggle the cap to one side, then heat the other leg and rock the cap over to move that leg out of the hole. Dont use much force or you can damage the board. It is easy, just take your time. Clean up the holes so you can see through them by using solder wick and a solder sucker.
I'm trying to replace this as well, but the capacitor I bought is too big to fit in there. Could someone tell me where they purchased the right sized capacitor? Thanks!
Hey everyone so Same problem. I replaced the capacitor with a 3300 uf 16v 105 temp. now when i plug it in the leds do light up. I get an orange temp light that flashes and the lamp light flashes orange for a few seconds. i tried the rest lamp method but still same thing, it wont turn on. I let it stand plugged in for 15 mins as someone else suggested but still no real power.
1. What does the orange temp light mean?
2. Do I now try and replace ALL the remaining capacitors?
I inherited one of these Toshiba TDP-T9 projectors because it did not power up. Most power lights what so ever.
First thing to make sure is that the LAMP door is completelly attached. There is a switch that disables the main power supply if thats not present.
Second the main issue is the faulty 3300uF 10V cap on the power supply. I replaced mine and its started up like champ!
The new power supply is about $170 http://www.impactcomputers.com/75-83v01g001.html that would fix the problem, however thats a bit much. If anyone is intersted contact me via PM or through my website getlofi dot com and I will give you a quote on fixing the power supply.
Hello.
Got me an old free TDP-T8 which seem to have the same layout.
Pretty easy to open an peal away, but I also had issues with getting the heat.
My 30W iron only does 380 Celsius(716 farenheit) so no go. Im guessing if it needs 830 as described here Il need a 60W iron as a minimum.
Great if anyone can confirm if 60w is enogh.
Also is it nessesary to remove the lacquer, and if so can I use any alcohol with a q-tip, and how to use it?
I have same problem like most of you people have with Toshiba Projector.
I plugged in but nothing works, no power, no lights nothing.... Can anyone help me out plzzzz thanks.
If you don't have a 60W iron, you may want to first add a bit of solder to get the old solder flowing and loosen the old flux. That worked with my 35W iron and eventually got it to flow onto the wick. 60W would definitely help, but if you only have a 35W it will still work, just takes a little longer.
hey.. im having issues with my tdp-s8 power supply.. its not the capacitors.. seems like the thermistor blew out.. and i cant get a part number.. if anyone has urs laying arround would u mind giving me a part number for the thermistor?? its the one close to the coils on the AC part of the power supply .. conponent label on the board is RT101 i believe .. thank you so much for your time! if anyone needs a picture of where the component goes ill be glad to send one email me to [email protected] thanks again!
I am having the same issues where mine will not show a power light or any signal. I just read in another blog that the battery on the remote can shut down or disable the projector if it is dead. True or False?
I to bought mine on Black Friday Years ago. I found this thread and was excited to fix it after it's been sitting in my garage broken for about 6 years. I took it apart and found that capacitor was bad and replaced it with another 3300uf 16V one but my projector is still dead... no LEDs. Lamp cover has been taken off and reinstalled, so it isn't that. Has anyone else had more then one bad capacitor that they had to replace? Any other suggestions as to what else I can check... other capacitors, fuses, etc...?
The-Doctor: Do you have a reference for the capacitor, by any chance? Am also in UK but know NOTHING about electronics. If I can get hold of the part I can try to find an electrician to desolder the old and then solder new capacitor for me.
Sorry- I realise this thread is VERY old but am just having this issue now!
If you dont fit a 105 deg capacitor or higher, your repair will not last long. You should also replace all the capacitors of the same brand that are on the power supply as they will all fail the same way. This is a very well known issue in the TV (CRT and flat panel ) and computer motherboard and power supply industries.
Also make sure you reglue the capacitor with some acid free silastic as was done originally. That stops the solder joints from cracking later (from vibration)
Finally - gove the power supply at least 30 minutes, preferably an hour, after unplugging the mains lead before you touch the power supply. There are some lethal voltages on some of the other capacitors that needs time to bleed away. It should all be gone in 10 minutes, but dont bet on it.
Take your time , the capacitor is soldered both sides of the board to large copper track areas. Heat each leg with a normal soldering iron, being careful to not knock any of the other components off with the heat ( they desolder one leg as you heat up the pad), and then gently rock the cap as you heat each leg. Basically you heat a leg, wriggle the cap to one side, then heat the other leg and rock the cap over to move that leg out of the hole. Dont use much force or you can damage the board. It is easy, just take your time. Clean up the holes so you can see through them by using solder wick and a solder sucker.
I'm trying to replace this as well, but the capacitor I bought is too big to fit in there. Could someone tell me where they purchased the right sized capacitor? Thanks!
If you're in the UK, i got mine from RS Components (part no. 191-8182)
How do i reset TDP-S8 lamp hours, please help.
you guys just awesome...
I replace my one wit 2200uf 16v from maplin code:VH54J.It took just 2 hours well done,thanks for everyone...
hi
this forum has more information and it is very useful. i am glad to visit this forum.can i get more information.........
[url=http://www.plrprivatelabelrights.com/basic-private-label-membership-tech... label rights[/url]
Hey everyone so Same problem. I replaced the capacitor with a 3300 uf 16v 105 temp. now when i plug it in the leds do light up. I get an orange temp light that flashes and the lamp light flashes orange for a few seconds. i tried the rest lamp method but still same thing, it wont turn on. I let it stand plugged in for 15 mins as someone else suggested but still no real power.
1. What does the orange temp light mean?
2. Do I now try and replace ALL the remaining capacitors?
Hello everyone.
I inherited one of these Toshiba TDP-T9 projectors because it did not power up. Most power lights what so ever.
First thing to make sure is that the LAMP door is completelly attached. There is a switch that disables the main power supply if thats not present.
Second the main issue is the faulty 3300uF 10V cap on the power supply. I replaced mine and its started up like champ!
The new power supply is about $170 http://www.impactcomputers.com/75-83v01g001.html that would fix the problem, however thats a bit much. If anyone is intersted contact me via PM or through my website getlofi dot com and I will give you a quote on fixing the power supply.
Cheers. --CM
Hello.
Got me an old free TDP-T8 which seem to have the same layout.
Pretty easy to open an peal away, but I also had issues with getting the heat.
My 30W iron only does 380 Celsius(716 farenheit) so no go. Im guessing if it needs 830 as described here Il need a 60W iron as a minimum.
Great if anyone can confirm if 60w is enogh.
Also is it nessesary to remove the lacquer, and if so can I use any alcohol with a q-tip, and how to use it?
If you need help disabling the case and boards, this guide is pretty handy:
http://applemachome.com/Toshiba_TDP-S8_Power_Issue_Fixit.html
I have same problem like most of you people have with Toshiba Projector.
I plugged in but nothing works, no power, no lights nothing.... Can anyone help me out plzzzz thanks.
If you don't have a 60W iron, you may want to first add a bit of solder to get the old solder flowing and loosen the old flux. That worked with my 35W iron and eventually got it to flow onto the wick. 60W would definitely help, but if you only have a 35W it will still work, just takes a little longer.
hey.. im having issues with my tdp-s8 power supply.. its not the capacitors.. seems like the thermistor blew out.. and i cant get a part number.. if anyone has urs laying arround would u mind giving me a part number for the thermistor?? its the one close to the coils on the AC part of the power supply .. conponent label on the board is RT101 i believe .. thank you so much for your time! if anyone needs a picture of where the component goes ill be glad to send one email me to [email protected] thanks again!
I am having the same issues where mine will not show a power light or any signal. I just read in another blog that the battery on the remote can shut down or disable the projector if it is dead. True or False?
I to bought mine on Black Friday Years ago. I found this thread and was excited to fix it after it's been sitting in my garage broken for about 6 years. I took it apart and found that capacitor was bad and replaced it with another 3300uf 16V one but my projector is still dead... no LEDs. Lamp cover has been taken off and reinstalled, so it isn't that. Has anyone else had more then one bad capacitor that they had to replace? Any other suggestions as to what else I can check... other capacitors, fuses, etc...?
The-Doctor: Do you have a reference for the capacitor, by any chance? Am also in UK but know NOTHING about electronics. If I can get hold of the part I can try to find an electrician to desolder the old and then solder new capacitor for me.
Sorry- I realise this thread is VERY old but am just having this issue now!
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