Greetings,
I've owned a Toshiba TDP-S8 projector for about 20 months with flawless performance. Now it will not power up.
When connected to the outlet the ON/STANDBY light is lit and orange. When I try to power up the projector the light will go out for a couple seconds and then on again. The fan will not turn on and 95% of the time the lamp will not turn on. The other 5% of the time the lamp flickers for a second and goes out again.
There is no way I am anywhere near the 2000 hour lamp life limit for the bulb. I've removed the bulb and inspected for damage (lines, bubbles, etc) and have found nothing.
Can someone please help me troubleshoot this projector. I'd hate to drop $350 on a replacement bulb only to find out that the bulb is not the problem.
Just a follow-up to this problem.
I tried resetting the lamp timer last night. I unplugged the projector, held the menu, on/standby and input buttons, and plugged the projector into an outlet. The 3 main lights came on and stayed on (on/standby, lamp and another one). The projector would not turn on.
I then unplugged and replugged the projector and was able to get it on once and checked the lamp timer. It had not reset and now I know that I've only used it for 361 hours. I wasn't able to get it on again after that.
Any help?
That's very strange, or not at all, because I am having very similar issues with my own projector, another TDP-S8, which I've owned for almost two years now. I wouldn't think that I'm at the 2000 hour limit, and I tried the same procedure, getting the same result. If you (severum) or anyone else figures this P.O.S. out, let me know.
Same problem here too. Just under the two year mark, stand-by light comes on, but no actual fire-up. Stand-by light turns off when I press it, and occasionally I see a flicker of light from the projector as it attempts to fire up. I might crack it open to see if there is a fuse problem. Power cord is not the issue...let me know if you hear anything as well!
I actually got mine to work. I used the reset option (menu+power+input) to reset the timer on the bulb. Then I plugged it in until the power light came on steady, and let it sit for about 15-30 minutes. Pressed the power button again and it came on.
Then when I had to unplug it to move it, it went back to the same problem. So I reset the bulb again, and worked with the power cord (plugging it in and unplugging it) until I got a steady light. Then I let it set for awhile (may take about an hour to be safe), then tried the power button and it fired right up. I've got it set in a permanent install now and it's working fine.
Haven't tried a rigorous test (repeated on/off cycles), but for once a day when I want to watch the big game, it works like a charm. I don't plan on putting too much stress on it for a long while, seeing the quality of the make.
Hope this helps!
Greetings all,
It sounds like you all purchased your projector from the Best Buy Black Friday sale almost 2 years ago. :)
Well my problem is not resolved but its in the process of being resolved.
My projector got to the point that it wouldn't turn on at all. No lights, nothing. Luckily this projector comes with a 2 year warranty so if you are like me you can send it in to be repaired for free. The problem is with a faulty power supply that must be rebuilt. If you are a real DIYer the part number is 75.83V01G001, ASSY LVPS LITE ON 200W.
Hope this helps.
Wow ..... at least I don't feel so alone now .... this is definately the black friday purchase on my part .... damn frustrating. Well off to the reset world and i guess then the repair shop :-( Thanks to all for your input.
Bdog
If you decide to return your projector for the warranty repair, Toshiba is going to tell you to www.projectordoctor.com . Also, if you purchased the projector on Black Friday, they should still cover the repair up until Dec. 29, 2008. At least this is what I was told today over the phone before I sent mine in. Best of luck!
Hi All if you dare open up the projector and remove the top main PCB PLEASE BE CAREFUL, you can them removed the main Power Supply, you may find that you have failed capacitors in the PSU look for tops that have become swollen you must replace all capacitors, it is a time consuming job, but worth it, TAKE YOUR TIME!!!, hope this helps
Hi All if you dare open up the projector and remove the top main PCB PLEASE BE CAREFUL, you can them removed the main Power Supply, you may find that you have failed capacitors in the PSU look for tops that have become swollen you must replace all capacitors, it is a time consuming job, but worth it, TAKE YOUR TIME!!!, hope this helps
Mine is doing the exact same thing. I thought the bulb was out so I bought a new one online from Provantage.
It wasn't until I couldn't get the new bulb to turn on and I talked to tech support who told me my projector was out of warranty that I found this forum.
I have a friend who is good with a soldering iron, he builds custom amplifiers for people.
Is the previous post by Technicalwiz enough detail to have him fix my projector?
got the same problem below some ans from other web:
We as Atp Computer Consultants do a lot of onboard repears on laptops Projectors and lots more.
We found that on the Power Supply is a cap that needs to be replased. The cap should be swollen just replace the cap and it should work
Thank you very much for the precise answer!
Had the same fault but repaired mine.
As I only had a 1000u/16V at hand, I put it in instead the swollen 3300u/10V. It works as well.
BTW this cap was extremely hard to desolder, as its holes are very tight in the PCB.
some addition, how to take it apart: the only screw at the center of the bottom is obviously needs to be taken out, then only the plastic holds it in one piece. I used two credit cards (well, not credit cards, but magnetic hotel keys, but looks the same) to insert between the upper and lower chassis to separate them. The capacitor in question was on the bottom board, which has the power connector.
We as Atp Computer Consultants do a lot of onboard repears on laptops Projectors and lots more.
We found that on the Power Supply is a cap that needs to be replased. The cap should be swollen just replace the cap and it should work
Thank you very much for the precise answer!
Had the same fault but repaired mine.
As I only had a 1000u/16V at hand, I put it in instead the swollen 3300u/10V. It works as well.
BTW this cap was extremely hard to desolder, as its holes are very tight in the PCB.
some addition, how to take it apart: the only screw at the center of the bottom is obviously needs to be taken out, then only the plastic holds it in one piece. I used two credit cards (well, not credit cards, but magnetic hotel keys, but looks the same) to insert between the upper and lower chassis to separate them. The capacitor in question was on the bottom board, which has the power connector.
Unbelievable! I have repaired these projectors for the past few years. The power supply has cost me $150 with exchange. I can now repair them for $2 - for the capacitor. I have repaired 2 of these so far and both worked perfectly. Thank you so much for the information. Are you familiar with other models and/or brands? Thanks again.
My Toshiba projector was on day an night for about two years. I worked up over 4750 hours on one bulb. I think it's burnt out now though. Although I am going to try some of your tricks and see if I can get it cranked up again because like hell I'm paying $300 bucks for a bulb.
I found this solution on FixYa http://www.fixya.com/support/t455344-tdp_s8, and it seems to be in line with what people are saying.
The main problem is the power supply. In detail, the output capacitor of the power supply causes the problem. I guess, Toshiba or Lite ON didn't consider the aging effect of the output capacitor. You should replace the output capacitor to fix the problem. (In some sites, they recommend to replace the power supply, but don't do that. The new power supply costs over $200 and the capacitor will be less than 50cents.) If you disassemble TDP-S8, in the power supply, you can find the electrolytic capacitor 3300uF/10V. You should replace this with any electrolytic capacitor with the range of 2000uF~4000uF/10~16V. You can download the service manual from some websites (I've paid $5 for this) then you can disassemble the projector. Of course, you need to do soldering to replace the capacitor. I've fixed this problem yesterday and it took about 4 hours for me. Good Luck~~!!
for the past two years my projector has worked fine until the bulb went out on me. Since i had purchased the warranty, a new bulb was sent to me. I installed it and again it worked fine for the first 300 hours.
NOW - I am getting a message in the middle of my display screen that says
Hi all..
I have the same problem and I need to disassemble the unit and replace the problem capacitor(s). Where can I get the service manual of tdp_s8 for free? Anybody have this file?
regards...
http://www.tradebit.com/filedetail.php/5662436-toshiba-tdp-s8-tdp-t8-tdp....
I Had the same problem capacitor as well, replaced the capacitor with a 16V 3300MF 105 degree capacitor. Always turn off your projector in standby mode and use in a AC cooled well ventilated area. I think I exceeded the 105 degree limit. This was a simple repair.
I had the same problem, as with the others I bought mine at Best Buy on black friday from best buy. It would only flash on for a few seconds then shut off again, I replaced the 3300uF capacitor on the power supply board as inidicated above and have not had a problem since. It took about two hours and im not very good with soldering or even with messing with stuff like this, but what the hay its already broken, give it a shot. Better then sending it off and having to wait forever to get it back, then being charged 200 dollars. The part cost $4.50 at Radio shack (which you can buy online for $1.00 if you feel like waiting for it to be sent to you). I would like to thank everyone above for all the help, very good info, I'm sure if i would have called Toshiba they would have told me to send it off. Well time to go play Rockband 2 or watch a movie on the big screen, LOL. Woohoo love it.
HOW do you disassemble the unit to get to the power supply?
I downloaded the service manual and have the projector disassembled
I have removed the powersupply, bought a new capacitor and have paid a guy to replace it for me, we'll see if I'm able to put it all back together, but thank you everyone for your very valuable input on resolving this issue!
Hi, I've got the same problem where the projector has no light, nothing. I downloaded the service manual, took it apart, the capacitor is bulbed so I'm fairly certain it's the issue. Tried to de-solder it with my 60watt soldering iron, but no deal. Anyone have any issues with this? Am I doing something wrong? It's Saturday here, so on Monday if worse comes to worst I'll take it to an electrical repair center and have them replace it for me. Anyone with tips on how they desoldered the 3300mh capacitor, I'd be curious to know if there's some quirk I'm missing. Will report back Monday. Cheers all.
Just to let everyone know, I am in the UK and had the exact same problem. Bought mine just under two years ago. Stumbled across this forum and followed everyones advice. Now works perfectly. For anyone in the UK, got my capacitor from RS Components - 84p each but had to buy 5, still a bargain. Getting to the component was a nightmare, once I had found the service manual it was just a steady slog. You do need to get plenty of heat on the solder pads to get the old one out, but I only used a small soldering iron. Getting the new one in was a pain because the holes are virtually the same size as the capacitor legs so the slightest bit of solder causes grief. Whole process of strip down, repair and put back together took about 90 minutes. Well worth the effort.
It worked and I this was the first time I ever tried something like this. $3.50 was the total cost (3300uf 16V). 2 hours of work, 1 trip to the store. I helps that my work has an electronics shop so I was able to use their tools. I did not have a soldering iron that was hot enough. You need one that can get to at least 830 degrees. You need some solvent (alcohol) that can remove the lacquer coating covering the solder. It helps (did not know this existed) solder wicking material. You do not need the manual to do this. The hardest part is getting the cover off. There is a single screw deeply recessed in the bottom middle of the projector, remove that and everything snaps apart, just be gentle. I kept a log, took pictures just incase I got lost putting it back together - did not need it. I bought at Black Friday at Best Buy and It has been sitting on the shelf for over two years (did not return for warranty). Have been checking the internet and glad I found this answer.
Got mine working too! Had an electrician desolder it for me (not sure why I couldn't get it unsoldered with my soldering iron...oh well). Cost me five bucks! Working perfectly now. Thanks everyone.
[Edit] Just saw the previous post. Obviously my 60w soldering iron couldn't reach a high enough temperature. Good to know.
We are experiencing same problems - what website can we visit to get the service manual - or describe to us where the power supply is inside the projector?
Thanks!
Heres a small guide -
http://bit.ly/6sTRTi
The problem is the capacitor in the power supply not the lamp. Look at this whole thread for information on how to replace it. So far I have done 5 and they all have fixed the problem.
Thanks for the info from this site.
I have this projector and was having the same problems. I was able to reset the projector and get it to start a few times but after a while it was just not working.
I looked on this site and found the solution. I replaced the capacitor on the circuit board for the power supply. Well I did not replace it but the local electronics repair guy fixed it. I took the projector apart until I could get the power supply board out. I noticed the 3300uF Capacitor and yes it was swollen. Its kind of obvious when you look at the other capacitors on the board. Instead of being flat on the top it was a curved at the top.
My repair guy took the capacitor off and replaced it with another. The one he had as a little bigger in size but we put leads on the capacitor and soldered it in place. He charged me $60 to replace the capacitor and since I have no tools to solder anything, I consider it $60 well spent. At least it beats paying $700+ for another projector.
I came home, put the thing back together and OMG it works. I had it working at 6 pm today and the kids had their friends over at 7:30 to watch the UFC pay per view.
Thank you, thank you, thank you for the fix. You have saved my sanity and the basement entertainment area.
Thanks for the info from this site.
I have this projector and was having the same problems. I was able to reset the projector and get it to start a few times but after a while it was just not working.
I looked on this site and found the solution. I replaced the capacitor on the circuit board for the power supply. Well I did not replace it but the local electronics repair guy fixed it. I took the projector apart until I could get the power supply board out. I noticed the 3300uF Capacitor and yes it was swollen. Its kind of obvious when you look at the other capacitors on the board. Instead of being flat on the top it was a curved at the top.
My repair guy took the capacitor off and replaced it with another. The one he had as a little bigger in size but we put leads on the capacitor and soldered it in place. He charged me $60 to replace the capacitor and since I have no tools to solder anything, I consider it $60 well spent. At least it beats paying $700+ for another projector.
I came home, put the thing back together and OMG it works. I had it working at 6 pm today and the kids had their friends over at 7:30 to watch the UFC pay per view.
Thank you, thank you, thank you for the fix. You have saved my sanity and the basement entertainment area.
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