I have a prolem with my Mitsubishi WS-65711 not turning on by either the remote or by the on/off push button located on the front panel of the unit. I checked the power and it is okay. When the on button is pushed I hear a click inside the unit and the green indecator light next to the on button comes on for 2 to 3 seconds then I hear another click and the green indecator light goes out and nothing further happens. I tried resetting the unit as mentioned in the trouble shooting section of the owner's manual and that did not appear to have any effect. Can you help me out on what could be wrong?
Thanks,
Mitsubishi WS-65711 not turning on
Tue, 05/27/2008 - 10:50
#1
Mitsubishi WS-65711 not turning on
Press the input and menu button at the same time on the front of the set. This puts the set into the diagnostic mode. There will be a number of flashes, then there will be a second set of flashes such as the light will blink once, then pause, then the light might flash twice or three times, that was a code 12 or 13, this will repeat itself several times. Let me know what the code cam out to be.
Larry.
I held the Menu and Devise buttons in as you suggested and the green indicator light flashed twice ten times with a short pause in between. Also tried unplugging the power from the wall for 30 minutes with no effect
redo the diagnostics, there is a two digit number you need to get. There is no 10/ 10
Larry
Checked again and it is blinking code 22
Ah, looks like we have the same problem.
I recently had this same problem with my 65907 65" Mitsubishi. It turned out to be two blown 5A. "Pico" fuses (look like little green resistors) next to the regulator.
If they are F9A04 and F9A05, the convergence IC must be replaced or you will cause sever damage to the power supply in the future.
Larry,
Do you think I may have the same problem?
Where is the convergence IC located?
and what is it's schematic diagram component ID?
It is a good possibility. If you wish to get some repair info on this set, leave an e-mail address and I will try and assist you to save hundreds of bucks!
Larry,
THanks for the assistance.
Please use this email:
[email protected]
Gentelmen,
what a find! I have a mit. ws65611. will not complete power on . I get the same error code 22. I already have fact. manual thank you for your help. do the fuses referanced show physical signs that they are open or do i need to meter them
Yes you need to check them for continuity. They should measure a short across them.
[email protected] . Thanks for your help, Larry.
Larry
thanks for your responce! yes the two fuses in question are blown (F9A04 and F9A05). Don't want to sound tooo confident, the manual has a couple differant IC's in the conv scamatic could you give me the part # and maybe help in where to go to purchase thease parts. their is a electronic supply near might they help?
Not afraid, you need to get original replacement IC's a lot of electronic supply houses try and sell the ICs as original but indeed they are not! Make sure the replacement IC's are made by Sanyo, and they do NOT have a T1 on them as part of the number, as if they do they are the cheap China made IC's I use this place to get original Sanyo IC's http://www.electronic-repair-kits.com/index.html. But you must also apply a generous coating of heat sink paste to the back of the new IC's before installing them. Good Luck
The service manual is on it's way to those that left a good e-mail address. Good luck!
Man you know I do have other things to do, I try and help but things do not work out right because of silly e-mail mistakes? Good luck! I did however re-send the service manual for those did not receive it.
Hey Larry, I'm assuming those wires with green things in the center(looks like a resistor, except not) are the fuses. I've never seen a fuse that looks like that so I'm not completely sure but it says 5A on it so I'm 99% sure it is =). In any case I tested for continuity and F9A04 lacked continuity but F9A01,2,3,5,6 and all had continuity. Is there anything else I should check? I'm worried about replacing the fuse only to have it blow out again because I didn't find the source of the problem. Should I too order a convergence IC replacement?
Thanks for your help. I sent you a little donation as gratitude.
what am i asking? that goes back to my previosly unanswered question. which IC do I need to replace? their are more than one in the schmatic
physicist, if you found that the fuse F9A04 was open, you could surly bet that the convergence IC was bad. Replace the convergence iC before replacing ther fuse or you could cause more damage to the power supply. Good Luck
not afraid,
I googled "convergence IC WS-65711" and it returned with a page here at techlore where Larry Dillon lists all the convergence IC model numbers for mitsubishi TV's: http://www.techlore.com/forum/thread/18547/Mitsubishi-convergence-IC-s-u...
CHASSIS: V21
MODELS: WS-48511 / WS-55511 / WS-55711 / WS-65511 / WS-65611 / WS-65711 / WS-65712 / WS-73711 / WS-B55
IC8C01 267P155010 HIC - STK393-110
So it looks like IC8C01 is the part.
http://www.electronic-repair-kits.com/STK393-110.html is the link to purchase it.
Larry, thanks again for your help.
Guys, let's keep this thread going with what we've found as we fix our expensive paperweights.
Here is another good one from our savior Larry:
http://www.techlore.com/forum/thread/22490/Mitsubishi-Convergence-IC-Rep...
In my case I found both F9A04 and F9A05 fuses open so I ordered the STK393-110 IC and 5A pico fuses from the sites Larry listed in the this article and will keep everyone on this thread posted on the repair results.
Just to let anyone interested know I just received 2 sanyo
Please, there is NO reselling of anything on techlore without the permission of the editors of this site. This is NOT e-bay or greg's list, PLEASE take your selling to the appropriate site. Thank you! Larry Dillon
Sorry about that Larry.
Well, bad news for me. I took the board out and replaced the convergence IC and F9A04. After hooking everything back up the TV turned on and started blinking. Went outside, had a cigarette--came back in for the grand finale and damn if F9A05 didn't blow within 5 seconds of turning it on. I saw some horizontal lines across the screen and then I heard the fuse blow and it turned off. Larry, any ideas what it could be now?
edit: just checked the other thread. So I probably shorted the pins on the convergence IC when I soldered them in. Do I need to remove the entire convergence IC now and replace it? Or should I just desolder and resolder the pins on the new one? Is there anything else it could be? It was a bitch and a half pulling the tray out.
Maybe you should quit smoking? LOL You will most likely need to replace the IC again. try and unsolder the shorted pins and replace the fuse ONCE. If it blows, you will need to replace the IC
Gahh, I'm just going to replace the convergence IC again then. I can't handle doing this all over again a third time(unless the second time goes a lot faster).
Here are some tips for those who have yet to attempt the convergence IC replacement:
- Take lots of pictures when you unplug the wires from the boards attached to the tray. Otherwise there is no way you will be able to put them back appropriately.
- There is a gray wire near all the red wires in the front right corner(you can't miss it). I couldn't remove it so I traced it back and unplugged it on the other side.
- The red wires have clips on the side that attach them. I used a small flat screwdriver to unclip them.
- You will probably need a ratchet to get to one of the screws holding the tray down. Luckily I had a deep drive socket already available. I didn't have a ratchet to fit the socket so I just used pliers to turn the deep drive socket. Worked fine.
- When you are trying to solder the new convergence IC on you will notice that the plastic tray covers some of the pins on the back. You can either unbolt the boards from the tray or you can do what I did and just cut the plastic with some wire cutters.
-When you are looking at the pins on the back of the board for F9A04(or whatever fuse you blew) to make sure you don't desolder the wrong pin check the continuity on the wire on the front of the board with the wire on the back. I almost desoldered a pin right next to it that did have continuity when I checked it like this so be careful of that too. It should be obvious which is the correct pin.
- Most importantly of all: BE CAREFUL SOLDERING.
edit: Just unplugged everything and removed the tray again. It went by plenty fast. I might upload my photos to an online gallery for those who don't have digital cameras. Anyone need that done for them?
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