KP-43HT20 convergence

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skipper
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KP-43HT20 convergence

I have a Sony KP-43HT20 with a convergence problem. I bought it from someone who had it checked out but did not wish to have it repaired. The tech told them it was the convergence box. I have been researching online and most info I've seen says the 2 convergence ICs. I read one person who had the identical issue I have ( Bow tie shape, separate red, green, and blue ghosting, press play on a DVD and there are 3 separate colored arrows displayed - RGB ) who replaced the ICs with no effect.  I have basic electrical ability (ohmmeter, soldering...), maybe with a service manual and some professional opinion and advice I could make this happen.  Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'm thinking this is a hour fix with the correct info. sjsully28@hotmail.com

Thank you,

 Steve

zapdbf
zapdbf's picture
Well  more than an hour i

Well  more than an hour i would say. but yes, it is the convergence ic's. the manual is helpfull but not nessasary for this repair. you have to replace both ic's which are flat single inline  pins(sip) type of ic, clamped or screwed down to a heat sink and the part number which will be on the ic will begin with STK.

Some times you will have a secondary problem with blowen fuse, on sony usaly you will have more trouble with the pico fuses then the resistors, so i would concentrate on this first, the fuses look simular to small resistors but they are yellow in color and located behind the heat sink in most units. if they are good you still may have one blowen on the power supply board. but if you want i can help you through this repair.

ron77
ron77's picture
zapdbf said: Well  more than

zapdbf said: Well  more than an hour i would say. but yes, it is the convergence ic's. the manual is helpfull but not nessasary for this repair. you have to replace both ic's which are flat single inline  pins(sip) type of ic, clamped or screwed down to a heat sink and the part number which will be on the ic will begin with STK. Some times you will have a secondary problem with blowen fuse, on sony usaly you will have more trouble with the pico fuses then the resistors, so i would concentrate on this first, the fuses look simular to small resistors but they are yellow in color and located behind the heat sink in most units. if they are good you still may have one blowen on the power supply board. but if you want i can help you through this repair.

Thanks for the super fast response. Didn't mean to slight anyone with the 1 hour fix comment, just a figure of speech, meaning I could probably fix it with some help. Walking me through this would be great, should I find a manual so I know exactly what you're referring to. Are you saying that the pico fuses could be blown and not the IC's, and why do you think the tech said it was the box, more money on parts?

zapdbf
zapdbf's picture
no , the ic's malfunctioning

no , the ic's malfunctioning causes the fuses to blow, it is a reaction to the failure of the ic's

I have never heard of it called a "box" before but i would say he was talking about the board with the convergence ic's on them. in the field some tech's will just replace the board. it is quicker. we change the ic's in the field but it takes much longer.

ron77
ron77's picture
zapdbf said: no , the ic's

zapdbf said: no , the ic's malfunctioning causes the fuses to blow, it is a reaction to the failure of the ic's I have never heard of it called a "box" before but i would say he was talking about the board with the convergence ic's on them. in the field some tech's will just replace the board. it is quicker. we change the ic's in the field but it takes much longer.

It's called the DCU -  digital convergence unit. I found that online but without a manual no way to confirm. Where would I get the IC's and fuses, and after I get them, should I e-mail you to move forward?

zapdbf
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the DCU rarely has a problem,

the DCU rarely has a problem, i have done this for years and i can only remember one time where i had to replace the dcu.

skipper said:"should I e-mail you to move forward?" - no just post here for all to see i will be watching. 

i cannot give you the manual because it is agenst our agreement with sony.  i will look up the parts tonight and get part nubmers if you want, but all the parts you need can be purchaced without the manufacturers part numbers.  i will post with more details later.

ron77
ron77's picture
I read that the original

I read that the original parts are Sanyo, and that there are a lot of aftermarket that just don't stand up, burning out after several months. I'll go with whatever you say, however. Thanks again

zapdbf
zapdbf's picture
Yes there are allot of after

Yes there are allot of after market stk's that are just junk ! Larry seems to have a handle on some good part suppliers i would like him to comment on suppliers. At our shop i don't worry about ordering anything it just goes to the parts guy so my resources are limited as to where to get parts.

zapdbf
zapdbf's picture
ic8002 and ic8001 are the two

ic8002 and ic8001 are the two convergence drive ic's located on the left board they will be close to the back and two huge heat sinks will be right in front of you, you can't see the printing on the ic's from the back because they are pointed away from you.  Remove that left board and you will beable to see the ic's better, make note on where the pluggs go, there are three plugs all the way closest to you looking from the back, these three plugs can be plugged in wrong so make sure you know which plug each one came out of.  there will also be some board screws you will need to take out and some jumper type of connector between the boards they flip up.  The yellow fuses you need to look for are located right under the fins of the heat sink, you need to use your ohm meter and check to make sure they show shorted. ps8006,ps8004,ps8002,ps8005,ps8003,ps8001 check all of them, they will be easy to spot once you know what to look for, it looks like a resister but yellow in color. only do this after the board is out, the fuses are 3.15 amp fuses, but i usaly use 4 amp replacements.

zapdbf
zapdbf's picture
here is a soldering tip: when

here is a soldering tip: when removing the ic's leave the screws that are holding it to the heat sink in untill all the pins are free from the board, this will help prevent you from moving the ic and tearing a soldering pad.

use heat sink compound behind the ic's mostlikley one or both of the ic's heat sink compound has dried out. Somtimes you will need to pry the ic off the heat sink because the compund will act like a cement once it dries out.

when you put the new ic's in screw them down to the heat sink before soldering the pins in. this is more important that the prevous soldering tip about removal.

zapdbf
zapdbf's picture
the ic's used in this set are

the ic's used in this set are stk392-560 you will need two of them

zapdbf
zapdbf's picture
ps5001 and ps5002 are two

ps5001 and ps5002 are two yellow fuses just like the ones i was describing before. They are located on the G board, there is a very good chance one of these opened up, they are 5 amp fuses. i think on this model the g board is standing upright on the left side looking from the back.

ron77
ron77's picture
zapdbf said: ps5001 and

zapdbf said: ps5001 and ps5002 are two yellow fuses just like the ones i was describing before. They are located on the G board, there is a very good chance one of these opened up, they are 5 amp fuses. i think on this model the g board is standing upright on the left side looking from the back.

I ordered the IC's, color coded all the plugs, then pulled the D board, will test the fuses, r and r the IC's , and let you know.

ron77
ron77's picture
skipper said: zapdbf said:

skipper said:

zapdbf said: ps5001 and ps5002 are two yellow fuses just like the ones i was describing before. They are located on the G board, there is a very good chance one of these opened up, they are 5 amp fuses. i think on this model the g board is standing upright on the left side looking from the back.

I ordered the IC's, color coded all the plugs, then pulled the D board, will test the fuses, r and r the IC's , and let you know.

I replaced the IC's, all fuses on the D board were good, replaced the board and turned it on - no difference. I didn't test the fuses on the G board, would a blown fuse there result in no difference? Also, I noticed when I turn it on the red light flashes four times, I'm sure it was that way initially, I just didn't pay attention, until I looked in the service manual. It says something about four flashes and vertical deflection. What's next, pull the G board and check fuses?

zapdbf
zapdbf's picture
yes, check the fuses on g

yes, check the fuses on g board it will prevent the convergence from working, but what is this about 4 flashes? does the picture come up ?

ron77
ron77's picture
I hit power, the timer

I hit power, the timer/standby light flashes 4 times, then the picture comes up.

zapdbf
zapdbf's picture
ok that is not an error code,

ok that is not an error code, that is just telling you it is comming up. if the picture did not come one it would repeat the code and that would be the error code. I just got done doing once 3 days ago and the fuses were blowen on the "G" board. it will not work untill they are changed if thay are blown and i believe atleast one is.

ron77
ron77's picture
zapdbf said: ok that is not

zapdbf said: ok that is not an error code, that is just telling you it is comming up. if the picture did not come one it would repeat the code and that would be the error code. I just got done doing once 3 days ago and the fuses were blowen on the "G" board. it will not work untill they are changed if thay are blown and i believe atleast one is.

It Works! This single dad on a tight budget is very grateful, I could not have had it repaired in a shop. Extremely accurate diagnosis and repair procedure, you're the best!

Moving on, the picture is not as sharp as I expected, even after Flash Focus. I cleaned the mirror and lenses, but I'm sure I have to set convergence manually. The service manual makes it look complex. There are all types of adjustments in the service manual before you get to adjustment by remote. Should I start with the remote adjustment, and just follow it step by step? Thanks again, really!

zapdbf
zapdbf's picture
i am glad you got it working,

i am glad you got it working, just do the digital convergence, you should be fine. I usaly will adjust for best center convergence using the rings on the neck of the tube. but it can be tricky, if you can get it converged with the digital convergence in the manual that should work fine.

ron77
ron77's picture
zapdbf said: i am glad you

zapdbf said: i am glad you got it working, just do the digital convergence, you should be fine. I usaly will adjust for best center convergence using the rings on the neck of the tube. but it can be tricky, if you can get it converged with the digital convergence in the manual that should work fine.

I'm kind of lost in the manual, do I measure and mark the center of the screen, go into PJE mode, and line up each color with the center mark? Am I covering lenses two at a time? I went into service mode and had no clue what to do when I got there. Looks like I'll have to read the manual a couple of times to familiarize myself with what's going on. This is almost harder than the repair.

zapdbf
zapdbf's picture
yes go into pje mode, and

yes go into pje mode, and usually the green is the best aligned, and the other two colors need to be aligned to the green, but if you notice the green to curve then adjust the green till it is straight. it is recommended to go in a spiral pattern starting from the center, on some models you can advance the cursor in a spiral automatically, there is a button on the remote that will do this - check the manual. And you are right sometimes the alignment is harder than the repair. After adjusting one point an adjacent point can move and require you to fix that point. so i avoid large moves at first. I have developed a stagey; if an area is way out just get it about half way converged and work all the points keep repeating this until it gets converged. Sometimes a very large move will cause another point to go crazy it may be on the other side of the screen if you are close to the edge.  

ron77
ron77's picture
zapdbf said: yes go into pje

zapdbf said: yes go into pje mode, and usually the green is the best aligned, and the other two colors need to be aligned to the green, but if you notice the green to curve then adjust the green till it is straight. it is recommended to go in a spiral pattern starting from the center, on some models you can advance the cursor in a spiral automatically, there is a button on the remote that will do this - check the manual. And you are right sometimes the alignment is harder than the repair. After adjusting one point an adjacent point can move and require you to fix that point. so i avoid large moves at first. I have developed a stagey; if an area is way out just get it about half way converged and work all the points keep repeating this until it gets converged. Sometimes a very large move will cause another point to go crazy it may be on the other side of the screen if you are close to the edge.  

I enter into sevice mode, then pje, the manual says pje displays a grid which I've yet to see, I'm throwing my hands up in the air!

zapdbf
zapdbf's picture
to get the grid up it is

to get the grid up it is either the 3 button or the 9 can’t remember for sure. once in pje hit that and the grid should pop-up if you see video behind the grid press it again to remove the video.

zapdbf
zapdbf's picture
to save your changes hit

to save your changes hit muting then enter, do this often

ron77
ron77's picture
Still no grid - when I enter

Still no grid - when I enter service mode, all text is green, when I enter pje, the text is larger and white with 2 sets of values 00  00. 

3 or 9, nor any other button seems to bring up the grid.

zapdbf
zapdbf's picture
That is correct, the text

That is correct, the text does change and you do get those values. I am going to bring one up, i think we have one in our used room. post more soon.

zapdbf
zapdbf's picture
the number buttons are like

the number buttons are like page scrolling buttons the 1 and 4 and the 2 and 5 so are the 3 and 6 when i tested this with the set in our used room pressing the 6 brought up the grid with video behind, pressing it again got rid of the video, i then got a blue cursor.

ron77
ron77's picture
I was trying it before I read

I was trying it before I read your post. I managed to get the fine adjustment with no grid. Blue was sharp, green was a little blurry, red was quite blurry. I read your post and got the grid up using 6, hit it again, but no blue cursor. I guess I have to keep playing with it, as long as I don't write data I should be able to power off and on with no changes. The manual could be a lot more clear, it doesn't seem to detail in clear, logical steps.

joshua
joshua's picture
Hey guys.  I have a KP-43HT20

Hey guys.  I have a KP-43HT20 with the same convergance issue.  I am having ALOT of trouble finding someone to come fix it (who knew that TV repairmen were so scarce!!).

From what I have read - replacing the IC chips and fuses seems to be the way to go.  I am pretty handy with electronics - but am not up to soldering IC chips into place.

Is there ANY way to accomplish this repair WITHOUT having to solder anything?  Is it possible to just replace an entire board?

Any and all help/advice is appreciated!!

zapdbf
zapdbf's picture
eBruce, try a company called

eBruce, try a company called pts. they may have the board.

ron77
ron77's picture
zapdbf - I can't read the

zapdbf - I can't read the latast posts, it takes me to a site down for maintenance

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