Sony KP-46WT500 Convergence Repair

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cyndi
cyndi's picture
Hi Larry,

Hi Larry,

Stumbled across this site while looking up the problem with my tv KP-46WT510, red is off to one side, will not converge, not temperature dependant.  is the service manual the same as for the KP-46WT500? if so could you send a copy to me at SupaflyRT at Yahoo dot ca? Thanks in advance, Brad

spock
spock's picture
Larry,

Larry,

Could you send me the service manual to the Sony KP-46WT500 to carlos@southlandprinting.com.

I have installed the pando software for download.

Thank you in advance.

Carlos

greg_21
greg_21's picture
Larry Dillon said: Where do

Larry Dillon said: Where do you want the manual sent to? There is no e-mail address to send it to here.

Hi Larry,

My Sony KP-46WT510 also has problem too, could you please send me the service manual to

rayhung@adelphia.net, I've installed Pando too. Thank you very much.

Ray Hung 

SCBoren
SCBoren's picture
Hi Larry,

Hi Larry,

Would it be possible to kindly ask for the Sony KP-46WT500 Service manul. I have been reading you and Brian's Conversations and I have run to the same issues as brian did, I had color convergence problem and put two new IC's in it but no change at all, I know I have to do some Voltage readings and resistors check and a maunal would greatly help me to pin point the bad reistor/s.

my email is timecenterofkearney@gmail.com

Thanks in advance

saadat

zapdbf
zapdbf's picture
Saadat - resistors on sonys

Saadat - resistors on sonys are normally not your secondary problem. because, sony fuses everything. most likely a fuse has opened up. they don't look like normal fuses. they are yellow and look like a resistor, normally the fuses around the stk's are 3.15 amp. Also on the g board you should have two 5 amp fuses that look the same way as the ones on d board (yellow resister looking) use a meter and check these fuses first. i bet you will find one open.

SCBoren
SCBoren's picture
zapdbf said: Saadat -

zapdbf said: Saadat - resistors on sonys are normally not your secondary problem. because, sony fuses everything. most likely a fuse has opened up. they don't look like normal fuses. they are yellow and look like a resistor, normally the fuses around the stk's are 3.15 amp. Also on the g board you should have two 5 amp fuses that look the same way as the ones on d board (yellow resister looking) use a meter and check these fuses first. i bet you will find one open.

Dear Zapdbf,  On the D Board I found total of 7 fuses 6 around the IC's and one away from it, they all looked good, however as you Said, Thanks to you on the G board there was infact two 5 amp fuses which one of them was open.  I will find a 5 amp fuse in the morning and put it in and run a test.  You think that 5 amp fues on the G board is causing the Colors to be off and top and bottom of the picture bowed, WOW! I can't wait to try this with new fues.  regardless I thank you for your skill and knowlage which you just helped me. I will let you know of the outcome.

Saadat 

zapdbf
zapdbf's picture
Saadat -- Yes, it is the main

Saadat -- Yes, it is the main power for the stk's

SCBoren
SCBoren's picture
Zapdbf, Well I guess I can't

Zapdbf, Well I guess I can't find this 5 amp fues local, I ordered on line and it will be a few days before I can fix it,

Thanks a million.

saadat

Guest (not verified)
Guest's picture
Larry

Larry

 Thanks for all of this great information about ic problems.  I have a sony kp-46wt510, and am tring to get everything lined up.  I can't seem to find the service manual anywhere, if you could please send me a copy i would be greatfull.  Thanks again for all of your great advice.  paranormal18@hotmail.com

comtech
comtech's picture
Larry,

Larry,

i have a sony kp-57hw40. i had the repair man repair it. but now the colors dont match, and the actual grid is not straight, he said that it would be impossible to fix the problem. by reading all the posts i can see that its not really true what he said, so i want to try it my self. also, when i switch from wide screen to normal or extra wide, the colors dont match at all. i was wondering if you can send me the service manual if you have it.

tombiber@gmail.com

your help will be greatly appriciated.

Thanks

Tom

zapdbf
zapdbf's picture
tominga - your tv has several

tominga - your tv has several convergence modes, you need to switch to.

I have written an article about sony convergence try this http://www.techlore.com/article/19631/Sony-Convergence-Procedure/

comtech
comtech's picture
Zapdbf,

Zapdbf,

i have been working in this mode, for some time, but i am new to this, i got the procedures. i was wondering if there is anything special that i need to do, based on the repair manual. i took the TV apart last night, and i have twitched the green tube. then i went to service mode, to align the 3 colors. The problem is when i switch from normal screen, to wide, to zoom, to extra zoom, the colors dont match, so i think i have to adjust the color in each screen separatly.

Please let me know if i am wrong.

any helpful advise would be greatly appriciated.

thanks

Tom

cranemanjr
cranemanjr's picture
Tom,

Tom,

You have to copy from the full mode to the other modes using the remote.  It should tell you the commands in the manual to perform to copy them over.  I have not worked on mine for a few months so I do not remember exactly what to do.  The previous article is correct in setting the convergence.  I created a grid overlay to set the green.  Don't forget to mark the centers of the screen for reference.  Once you get the rough convergence set for the green go back and set the fine tune convergence.  Then go to the other colors seperately by either covering the other lights or switching them off.  I found that after I got the grid set I swithed to the dot mode.  This is much better for tweaking the colors. 

FYI: I just used a large sheet of paper to cover the additional lights.

 Robert

comtech
comtech's picture
Robert,

Robert,

thanks for your reply, i dont have the service manual, if i can find one, i will copy the modes..

thanks

Tom

zapdbf
zapdbf's picture
tomigna - yes you may have

tomigna - yes you may have several diffrent modes you need to adjust, as cranemanjr said you can copy from one mode to the next, it will help get you close, but you will usaly have to adjust the other modes aswell. i made a note in my article about other modes. - I will add the copy function to this note. The document i created was an attempt to cover most of the models out there, there are some diffrences between the models and i am trying to note all of them.

zapdbf
zapdbf's picture
i changed my posting to

i changed my posting to include the procedure to copy to diffrent display modes. hope this helps.

cranemanjr
cranemanjr's picture
Tom,

Tom,

 I got my manual from Larry on this site.  You will need to download Pando, so you can accept large emails.  I think it is approx. 20 meg.  Try Larry (moderator) for the manual.

Robert

SCBoren
SCBoren's picture
zapdbf said: Saadat -- Yes,

zapdbf said: Saadat -- Yes, it is the main power for the stk's

Dear Zapdbf

Just wanted to let everybody know that you are the master!  I put the fuse in and my tv runs better than the day one, did not need to do any adjustment anywhere. it is perfect.  thanks and thanks again.

saadat

Dinesh
Dinesh's picture
Many thanks to Larry and

Many thanks to Larry and contributing members!  I surfed to this forum and thread less than 2 weeks ago and have since successfully repaired my Sony KP-51HW40.  It had the convergence problem.  I replaced the 2 convergence chips on the D board and the -22V fuse on the G board.  The TV is working great with no adjustments.  I spent about $85 total on parts ($46), service manual ($24), thermal compound ($5) and a solder sucker ($10).

The only problem I had was when I tried to disconnect the small red wire from the transformer on the D board.  (I successfully removed the large red wire at the other end - at the juction terminal.)  I ended up breaking off the small red wire from down inside the plastic hole in the transformer.  The wire is just pushed back in and I am sure it is not a very good connection.

2 questions:

1) What is the correct method of disconnecting this smaller red wire to remove the D board?

2) Any ideas on how to more permanently connect this wire now that I have broken it?

Thanks,

Mike

Bruce 76
Bruce 76's picture
Hi Mike,

Hi Mike,

 I asked the same question on 9/15 in this thread.  I called it a "yikes" when the small red wire came out...  However, as you have done, I just pushed it back in and it has been working fine ever since.

 Nice job on the fix!

 Bruce

zapdbf
zapdbf's picture
mike_h, i think there is

mike_h, i think there is another connection on that distribution block, i may be wrong, but it might have a cap over it.  When i have had problems i will use this other empty block, other than that you will need another distribution block.

cranemanjr
cranemanjr's picture
Mike,

Mike,

 Can you remove the connector out of the transformer?  You might be able to push it down and turn it to get it out.  You could possibly re-use the connection, but make it shorter.  I don't know if you could use a lag screw to go into the hole, bite down on the wire/connector and turn it to pop it out.  I never disconnected those wires.  I left the board attached.

 Robert

Dinesh
Dinesh's picture
cranemanjr said: Mike,  Can

cranemanjr said: Mike,  Can you remove the connector out of the transformer?  You might be able to push it down and turn it to get it out.  You could possibly re-use the connection, but make it shorter.  I don't know if you could use a lag screw to go into the hole, bite down on the wire/connector and turn it to pop it out.  I never disconnected those wires.  I left the board attached.  Robert

No, I don't think it was designed to be removed.  There is a very small hole in the bottom that has a very small pin/socket in it - not much bigger that the conductor part of the wire.  Maybe the wire was crimped to it.  That pin is about an inch down inside the hole/cavity for the insulated wire.  It is not like the connections at the distribution block.  When I removed the larger wire from the distribution block, I could see what looked like a spring in the hole.  The removed wire there had a metal cap on the end that had a couple of flared out wings that keep it locked in.  The smaller wire I pulled out did not have the cap and there was no cap down in the hole.  Hope this makes senes... Mike

zapdbf
zapdbf's picture
mike, you can't remove it

mike, you can't remove it from the transformer side, I am really not sure what you are talking about with the lag screw, but this wire will have upwards of 30,000 volts it. It will arch 5 inches. if the insulation is damaged with a simple cut, it will arch through this cut, air is a conductor to this kind of voltage. there is enough current to stop your heart beating. This is a wire not to be experimenting with, if it is damaged or not seated correctly you don't want it falling out! This i strongly recommend fixing correctly. I just checked the manual and this is the model with the extra connector so you can just put it into the extra hole, and cover the empty one with the cap. Like i said before it can jump 5 inches so the cap is the only think keeping it from arching.

Dinesh
Dinesh's picture
zapdbf said: mike, you can't

zapdbf said: mike, you can't remove it from the transformer side, I am really not sure what you are talking about with the lag screw, but this wire will have upwards of 30,000 volts it. It will arch 5 inches. if the insulation is damaged with a simple cut, it will arch through this cut, air is a conductor to this kind of voltage. there is enough current to stop your heart beating. This is a wire not to be experimenting with, if it is damaged or not seated correctly you don't want it falling out! This i strongly recommend fixing correctly. I just checked the manual and this is the model with the extra connector so you can just put it into the extra hole, and cover the empty one with the cap. Like i said before it can jump 5 inches so the cap is the only think keeping it from arching.

We are talking about a smaller red wire that goes from the D board to a block near the front grill.  This is not one of the larger red wires going to the distribution block with the extra connection.  I couldn't see how the smaller red wire could be disconnected from the block at the bottom/front of the TV, so I tried the push-twist-pull thing at the transformer on the D board and the wire broke off.  I did get the lager red wire out of the distribution block.  In hind site, I could have made the repairs leaving the smaller red wire connected.  Do you what the smaller red wire to the transformer on the D board is for?  I guess I could look at the schematic and figure it out...

zapdbf
zapdbf's picture
if it is the one i am

if it is the one i am thinking of it is the g2 or focus wire going to the screen/focus controls on the front of the tv. this is much lower voltage. about 200 ish volts on this wire. if you solder it well and tape it up good you should be ok with this one. if you have trouble with this wire, the picture will turn bright white and the tvset will shut off, if it becomes dis connected. It could cause the tubes to draw too much current, this voltage is used like a valve on a flood gate. if the voltage is missing the flood gate is wide open.  You may have to replace the flyback. if you cannot get to the end of the wire.

zapdbf
zapdbf's picture
On some of the sonys, that

On some of the sonys, that connector was a push in lock type, you might beable to strip the wire back about 1/2 inch and push it in, it may lock down to a new wire pushing the other piece out. try that.

Dinesh
Dinesh's picture
You are right.  I just

You are right.  I just checked the schematic and it a a tap off the flyback transformer marked MV (medium voltage?).  The block diagram shows it going 'TO FOCUS PACK'.

I cannot solder it because the pin is down inside the transformer housing.  I guess this wire is not meant to be disconnected.  What happens if someone need to replace the whole board?  How do they disconnect/replace this wire?

Dinesh
Dinesh's picture
Here is a picture of the

Here is a picture of the transformer and the wires coming out of it.  The smaller wire has a plug on the other end.  Maybe it would have just pulled right out of the focus block.  Oh well, now I know...

http://www.premier-parts.com/more_info.php?pid=80

zapdbf
zapdbf's picture
Yes it just pulls of of the

Yes it just pulls of of the focus block, it is a round pin. But you should try what i said about stripping back about 1/2 inch and push it in hard, it may clamp around the new wire.

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