I have the sony kp65ws510 tv and I have no picture just sound and the standby light blinks 5 times can anyone help me?? I was also wondering if anyone knew where to get a free service manual? I clicked on the link in the posting and that just brought me to a website where I have to pay for the manual.
I am just not sure if the tv is worth fixing or not I called repair place and they told me 145.00 just to look at it and diagnose but they would put that towards the cost of the service only if I agree to have the service done. I just don't want to spend more then 300.00 to fix it if that, just doesn't seem worth it.
If you can help please contact me. [email protected]
I have the Sony KP65WS510 it has no picture (black screen) but the sound is good. The light blinks 5 times. Can someone help me with this problem?
I just don't want to spend a lot on fixing the tv I'm not sure it's worth it. Can someone suggest some options or things to look at? Repair shop said 145.00 to come out and look at it. Also I was looking for a free service manual the link in one of the post only brought me to a website that I would have to pay for the manual.
If you can help please feel free to email me directly [email protected]
I have the sony kp65ws510 tv and I have no picture just sound and the standby light blinks 5 times can anyone help me?? I was also wondering if anyone knew where to get a free service manual? I clicked on the link in the posting and that just brought me to a website where I have to pay for the manual.
I am just not sure if the tv is worth fixing or not I called repair place and they told me 145.00 just to look at it and diagnose but they would put that towards the cost of the service only if I agree to have the service done. I just don't want to spend more then 300.00 to fix it if that, just doesn't seem worth it.
If you can help please contact me. [email protected]
I have the Sony KP65WS510 it has no picture (black screen) but the sound is good. The light blinks 5 times. Can someone help me with this problem?
I just don't want to spend a lot on fixing the tv I'm not sure it's worth it. Can someone suggest some options or things to look at? Repair shop said 145.00 to come out and look at it. Also I was looking for a free service manual the link in one of the post only brought me to a website that I would have to pay for the manual.
If you can help please feel free to email me directly [email protected]
After reading this thread; I replaced the flyback transformer, then the high voltage distribution block and fixed the TV.
Having to do it again, I would order both parts, but install the HV distribution block first. The HV block takes one screw and six wires, all easy to reach. The Flyback required substantial disassembly and circuit board desoldering and resoldering.
After replacing the Flyback, the TV did not change (still wouldn't turn on & same 8 blinks). Once the HV Dist Block was replaced, TV turned on no problem. And is still working three days later.
Is there a way to test the old Flyback (now out of the machine) to tell if it is good and can be reinstalled?
Thank you to all who commented here. I could not have fixed this set without you!
I recently repaired a KP-51WS510 with the help of this thread - thanks! 8->
The set was dead and flashed 8 blinks. The neon bulb would flash so as instructed in this thread I removed and tested the HV Block. It showed 40K resistance to all ports. I ordered a new one, it tested infinite resistance to all ports. I installed the new HV Block and the set is up and running perfectly! 8->
Here's a pic I took that may help with this repair.
My 46 inch experienced the same problem and thanks to the info in this thread was able to order and repair the HV. It was a breeze. Just a heads up in case someone else needs to replace this component or another. I found a brand new original Sony replacement for the 8-598-955-32 Sony HV Block for 70 USD bucks (plus 5 dlls of shipping), that is 40 cheaper than other electronic sites. Here's where I found it.
Here's a couple pics that may help others doing this repair.
One is of the connector at the end of the HV wire - note the little wings on it, those are easy to break so follow the removal procedure carefully - push in on the lead and while pushing in pull up on the rubber boot that seals it to the HV block, once the boot is out of the way then continue to push in and at the same time rotate the lead and then let up and the lead should come right out of the block. If not, try again (it takes me a couple tries most times).
Here's a pic of the top of the HV block that shows the slots those little wings go into. Note there are slots at 9 o'clock, Noon, and 3 o'clock (I dunno why the one at the Noon position is there). The ones at 9 & 3 are directly across from one another and are horizontal when the block is mounted in the set.
slr_65 said: Here's a couple pics that may help others doing this repair. One is of the connector at the end of the HV wire - note the little wings on it, those are easy to break so follow the removal procedure carefully - push in on the lead and while pushing in pull up on the rubber boot that seals it to the HV block, once the boot is out of the way then continue to push in and at the same time rotate the lead and then let up and the lead should come right out of the block. If not, try again (it takes me a couple tries most times). Here's a pic of the top of the HV block that shows the slots those little wings go into. Note there are slots at 9 o'clock, Noon, and 3 o'clock (I dunno why the one at the Noon position is there). The ones at 9 & 3 are directly across from one another and are horizontal when the block is mounted in the set.
Do not remove the Focus and HV leads when doing convergence repair to Sony TVs. Loosen the tie-downs that hold the heavy red wires in place, remove all other plugs from sockets (noting where they came from), the board will come out far enough to solder comfortably on the bottom and remove ICs from the top.
Many Sony DIY Convergence repair attempts end up with scrapped TVs caused by user-induced secondary faults or Junk ICs from Internet Shopping Carts. If you do not have electronic repair experience, there are many different small details that can cause the project to end in failure. It is a lot more complicated than changing a fuse.
It may cost you a few bucks for someone that can do Sony TV Repair, but the result is a "Cadillac" tv working correctly instead of buying a new technology LCD Plasma with 3-7 year lifespan.
This thread is about the 8 blink problem and how it's normally the hv block. It's not about convergence repair!
There's no way to replace the hv block without unhooking it!
Thanks for the chuckle though - call a service tech . . . yeah, right. It was headed to the land fill anyway, so I can't hurt it by taking my best shot and if I recover it then woo hoo! (and I did recover it! 8-> )
Oh, I see you have a vested interest in telling people they can't do this - by checking your profile it appears you work for a service company. You list: http://calgary.convergencerepair.com/index.asp on your profile.
On the site you list:
One Visit Complete TV Repair
Convergence tv repairs can be completed with one visit. Here is what In Home Convergence Repair costs:
1) $35 S/call
(+$1 mile outside service area)
2) $120 Access and repair convergence circuit
3) $102 parts (inc: 2 X IC, resistors and fuses as required)
$257 Total Cash
Yeah, you probably don't want people fixing their own for less than $100!
I have recently come into posession of a KP-65WS510 that was free to the taker, I understand why cause this thing is a 300lb monster. When I got it home it did the notorious 8 blinks and no picture ever came up. With a friends help we pulled the G board and checked for bad solder joints, blown fuses and the like. Next we pulled the D board and I checked it thoughoughly, all of the pico fuses check out and the IC's that are known to go bad seem to be origional. My first suspicion was the flyback but I am now leaning towards the HV distro block after reading this post. The neon lamp I dont believe has ever come on, and when I power it up now it blinks 5 times instead of 8. I hear the hum of the power board but no thump or I call it a fart that is normal for CRT's to make when they power on. I would love any input since this is a gorgeous TV and would love to get it working. So far as I can see with my eyes nothing seems burnt or broken, I do have a dmm to check voltages I just dont know where to start.
Please help,
Ken
Update: I just checked ohm res on all of the HV splitter ports and each one measured 11-15k resistance, would that indicate a bad HV splitter? I also watched when I hit the power button and the neon came on for a split second then went out and the set shutdown and started blinking 8 times. (my fault I didnt have the HV reg plug attatched to the D board). If this is a <100$ fix that would make me very happy.
Yeah, if you're showing anything but infinite resistance on the hv block then it's bad.
You can pick a used one up off of fleaBay for about $30 and they aren't a real high failure item so it would probably last. Else a new one is in the 70 to $100 range.
Grab a new block and post back after you install it.
New question, what HV blocks are compatible with this TV set. All of the sony's look pretty much the same.
Well, I went ahead and bought one off eBay that has the last two digits of 31 instead of 32. I'll give it a shot, what harm can I do to a free TV, create a large shooting range target?
I have a feeling it will work, but I will have to wait up to 10 days to get it.
There should be a sticker on it with the part number. According to the service manual for that unit it's a 8-598-955-32 but production changes that don't make it to the service manuals can and do occur so it's always best to confirm the part number with what you take out of the set.
Looking on fleaBay there's no good buys right now on used ones, just a couple for $50 or so (they usually go more around $30). There's a couple new ones for $80 or so. Usually if I have to pay more than half of new I just buy new, but then again $30 is $30 and like I said - they aren't that high of a failure item so a used is probably a safe enough bet.
I think earlier in this thread someone had a source for new ones for around $70 too - maybe read through the thread a bit.
Good luck - I'm pretty sure you've found the culprit since it's failing the resistance check and you are seeing a brief flash on the neon bulb.
Take care, remember to post back and let us know how it went!
First, pick it up from that shop. The 8 blink problem usually isn't the mcz chip so obviously he didn't even crack the service manual and is just guessing.
The 8 blinks is indicating a problem in the hv side and the service manual does reference the flyback as a probable source of the problem, but as you have read here, it is often the hv block.
This thread details exactly how to remove the hv leads without damaging them and how to test the hv block so do that first and go from there.
Well the tech was having a off week. This is the part # he gave me #8-598-828-10 for a flyback transformer. Now it is out of stock I grant him that. BUT the part is for a D2846. A sony monitor.
I sent in a Sony KP-51WS500. Flyback transformer part #1-453-285-41 and it is avaiable on the sony parts website.
I was so PO'd that I had to go for a rip on the bike. To make that blatent of a error.
So now what do I do? Call him to see where he screwed up? Bring it home do the repairs and then send it back in to be adjusted? Ugggg
He stated to me that he replaced a IC chip. I will assume he means only 1. He said he fired it up and thought he noticed smoke off the flyback. I am crossing my fingers he hasn't pooched my set and that I can salvage it.
There's a mcz3001d (I think that's the number, I'm not home right now to confirm) on the G board that likes to go out. On some Sony's there's another one on the D board somewhere I think (I've only worked on a couple WS510s and they only had one, but I think others had more). When they go out the set will blink SIX times. I think he saw the blinking and was lazy and didn't even count, just went right for the mcz chip - at YOUR expense! I think once that didn't work then he did count the blinks and the flyback is just what the manual gives as the probable cause so he's just following that. But again, as per this thread - we've found that's not always true, it's frequently the hv block.
I'm not really trusting him right now so I would take the set back to your place and be rid of him, he's pretty much guessing and your paying him to guess.
Anyway, get it home and then test the hv block as detailed in this thread. There's a good shot that'll fix it. If it doesn't then it probably is a flyback and they are available. If you have any DIY skills you CAN pull the board yourself and replace the flyback. If you're not up to it then keep an eye on fleaBay - complete running D boards go on there in the 100 to $150 dollar range frequently.
OR . . . these sets come up pretty regularly on CraigsList with convergence problems. I've worked on three of them - two I got for free and one I paid $25 for (they wanted $50 but didn't have the remote!). Your set was running fine, just has the hv problem, so your convergence ICs should be fine . . . buy a set with convergence issues cheap off CraigsList, then do a dry run by pulling the board out of your broken set and then remove the STK chips from it. Then put those chips in the broken set and wah lah - you're up and running cheap!
People get too invested in these things. They paid several thousand dollars for it so they GOTTA fix it! If it's convergence, or the mcz chip, or the hv block it's cheap and easy to fix but if you gotta start chasing your tail and reading the service manual on the toilet it's usually just easier / cheaper to cut bait and grab another one!
Anyway, get it back and test the hv block, if it tests bad then replacing it will probably fix it. If it doesn't then it's probably the flyback and you gotta decide if you're up to removing and replacing it, or want to just buy a replacement board, or just a new set and put your stks in it. It's a personal choice you'll have to make once you're considered your skill level.
One last option I guess - print off the instructions on how to test the hv block and go to the shop and make him test it in front of you (the service manual doesn't tell you how to test it, you'll need to print the instructions from this thread).
OK got the set back. Apologize to tech because he did give me the correct number off the flyback. It is just that on the Sony parts site it dosent list it for this tv. The part number in the service manual matches the Sony site.
I pulled the HV block. Carefully removed and listed the 4 red wires to there location. Pretty simple really. 1st 3 red wires go to the 3 cans. In order. Inside wire goes to flyback. Placed a conductor down into the wire ports on the HV block and checked all 4 ports. The 5th one is capped. There was no resistance of any kind between any port and the ground wire. I know my method was a little unorthodox but I believe from what I read here it is now either the flyback with the odd part number or the IC chips.
More bad news. When the set went to the shop it powered up and flashed the 8 code. Now back from the shop...nothing. Not even a click. I do not know where to start now. I check the fuse on the G board and it has continuity. I dont know if the tech cut the power somewhere or what.Completely lost now.
Wish I had found this site before all this but there you go.
I am sorry to hear about your trouble Commanche, try not to fret much about it life is too short. There is hope in finding cheap and frequently FREE sets out there on Craigslist all the time. Thats how I found mine, I am not a hater of repair shops but I do question their methods. If you have a digital multi meter carefully pull the boards one at a time and test for continuity on the leads and traces on the board and see if you can narrow down the trouble. It is hit or miss weather just looking at the board will indicate a prob. Double check all the wires and cables are connected to the boards. Best of luck to you.
The tech told me he changed a chip. Did not say which one but I do not see any thing changed. Alot of dust on the board. He stated that after he changed out the chip he powered up the unit and there was smoke in the area of the flyback.
Now the question. If the flyback fried would that create a no power. not even a click. No red light on the front.
Guess I injoy the challenge to find out if it is dead or just faking.
If he were trying to fix a six blink code orginally then he probably changed the mcz3001d chip which on that unit is on the G board on the upper left side. I have pics but not handy right now - it's easy to spot on the G board though. You will have to remove the G board and then remove it from it's holder to see the back side and see if it's been changed or not. Most replace it with a mcz3001db as it's considered an upgrade to the original. Many put them in sockets too, but that's not a good idea as sockets can cause lots of problems.
I believe the service manual for that unit is available for download from this site - download it. If it's not post back and I'll get up put up for you.
Start with the G board and make sure all the cables are hooked up, then start following the power by testing at various points . . . or just find another on CraigsList! Seriously, these things are usuallypretty easy to find and one with a convergence issue will be much easier for you to fix than trying to figure out what the current problem is and what the last guy did. Nothing worse than following someone else.
Thank you all for all the input. I am not giving up on this unit. Between the little I know about electronics and the vast knowledge I can tap into on this site I will continue to troubleshoot the problem.
Originally a 8 Blink error code. Now a little more than that.
Will post back with any updates. This I guess is how we all learn.
Question. Can the G board be checked with the D board out? In other words leave the power board in place. Disconnect the leads coming off it to the other various components and test the AC voltage at the pins on the power board?
Or will this damage the power board.
I removed it and did a visual inspection on both sides of the board. G Board.No signs of damage. No discolored soldered joints and no broken parts. Was wondering if by disconnecting the leads off the board can I do a voltage check to rule it out as being damaged?
I am ordering a flyback for this unit. Figure in for a penny in for a pound. Just wondering if I am pursuing the correct course of action.
I got mine from www.partstore.com. Just put the part no off of the block and search. part# on mine was 8-598-955-32
I have the sony kp65ws510 tv and I have no picture just sound and the standby light blinks 5 times can anyone help me?? I was also wondering if anyone knew where to get a free service manual? I clicked on the link in the posting and that just brought me to a website where I have to pay for the manual.
I am just not sure if the tv is worth fixing or not I called repair place and they told me 145.00 just to look at it and diagnose but they would put that towards the cost of the service only if I agree to have the service done. I just don't want to spend more then 300.00 to fix it if that, just doesn't seem worth it.
If you can help please contact me. [email protected]
Thank you
I have the Sony KP65WS510 it has no picture (black screen) but the sound is good. The light blinks 5 times. Can someone help me with this problem?
I just don't want to spend a lot on fixing the tv I'm not sure it's worth it. Can someone suggest some options or things to look at? Repair shop said 145.00 to come out and look at it. Also I was looking for a free service manual the link in one of the post only brought me to a website that I would have to pay for the manual.
If you can help please feel free to email me directly [email protected]
Thank you
I have the sony kp65ws510 tv and I have no picture just sound and the standby light blinks 5 times can anyone help me?? I was also wondering if anyone knew where to get a free service manual? I clicked on the link in the posting and that just brought me to a website where I have to pay for the manual.
I am just not sure if the tv is worth fixing or not I called repair place and they told me 145.00 just to look at it and diagnose but they would put that towards the cost of the service only if I agree to have the service done. I just don't want to spend more then 300.00 to fix it if that, just doesn't seem worth it.
If you can help please contact me. [email protected]
Thank you
I have the Sony KP65WS510 it has no picture (black screen) but the sound is good. The light blinks 5 times. Can someone help me with this problem?
I just don't want to spend a lot on fixing the tv I'm not sure it's worth it. Can someone suggest some options or things to look at? Repair shop said 145.00 to come out and look at it. Also I was looking for a free service manual the link in one of the post only brought me to a website that I would have to pay for the manual.
If you can help please feel free to email me directly [email protected]
Thank you
After reading this thread; I replaced the flyback transformer, then the high voltage distribution block and fixed the TV.
Having to do it again, I would order both parts, but install the HV distribution block first. The HV block takes one screw and six wires, all easy to reach. The Flyback required substantial disassembly and circuit board desoldering and resoldering.
After replacing the Flyback, the TV did not change (still wouldn't turn on & same 8 blinks). Once the HV Dist Block was replaced, TV turned on no problem. And is still working three days later.
Is there a way to test the old Flyback (now out of the machine) to tell if it is good and can be reinstalled?
Thank you to all who commented here. I could not have fixed this set without you!
yes the fly can be tested out of the set BUT you need a very expensive piece of test equipment called a transformer ringer
Hi Guys,
I recently repaired a KP-51WS510 with the help of this thread - thanks! 8->
The set was dead and flashed 8 blinks. The neon bulb would flash so as instructed in this thread I removed and tested the HV Block. It showed 40K resistance to all ports. I ordered a new one, it tested infinite resistance to all ports. I installed the new HV Block and the set is up and running perfectly! 8->
Here's a pic I took that may help with this repair.
/Steve
All,
My 46 inch experienced the same problem and thanks to the info in this thread was able to order and repair the HV. It was a breeze. Just a heads up in case someone else needs to replace this component or another. I found a brand new original Sony replacement for the 8-598-955-32 Sony HV Block for 70 USD bucks (plus 5 dlls of shipping), that is 40 cheaper than other electronic sites. Here's where I found it.
http://stores.ebay.com/Suburban-Electronic-Wholesalers
Cheers
Here's a couple pics that may help others doing this repair.
One is of the connector at the end of the HV wire - note the little wings on it, those are easy to break so follow the removal procedure carefully - push in on the lead and while pushing in pull up on the rubber boot that seals it to the HV block, once the boot is out of the way then continue to push in and at the same time rotate the lead and then let up and the lead should come right out of the block. If not, try again (it takes me a couple tries most times).
Here's a pic of the top of the HV block that shows the slots those little wings go into. Note there are slots at 9 o'clock, Noon, and 3 o'clock (I dunno why the one at the Noon position is there). The ones at 9 & 3 are directly across from one another and are horizontal when the block is mounted in the set.
Do not remove the Focus and HV leads when doing convergence repair to Sony TVs. Loosen the tie-downs that hold the heavy red wires in place, remove all other plugs from sockets (noting where they came from), the board will come out far enough to solder comfortably on the bottom and remove ICs from the top.
Many Sony DIY Convergence repair attempts end up with scrapped TVs caused by user-induced secondary faults or Junk ICs from Internet Shopping Carts. If you do not have electronic repair experience, there are many different small details that can cause the project to end in failure. It is a lot more complicated than changing a fuse.
It may cost you a few bucks for someone that can do Sony TV Repair, but the result is a "Cadillac" tv working correctly instead of buying a new technology LCD Plasma with 3-7 year lifespan.
Robert
Robert, read the thread!
This thread is about the 8 blink problem and how it's normally the hv block. It's not about convergence repair!
There's no way to replace the hv block without unhooking it!
Thanks for the chuckle though - call a service tech . . . yeah, right. It was headed to the land fill anyway, so I can't hurt it by taking my best shot and if I recover it then woo hoo! (and I did recover it! 8-> )
Oh, I see you have a vested interest in telling people they can't do this - by checking your profile it appears you work for a service company. You list:
http://calgary.convergencerepair.com/index.asp on your profile.
On the site you list:
One Visit Complete TV Repair
Convergence tv repairs can be completed with one visit. Here is what In Home Convergence Repair costs:
1) $35 S/call
(+$1 mile outside service area)
2) $120 Access and repair convergence circuit
3) $102 parts (inc: 2 X IC, resistors and fuses as required)
$257 Total Cash
Yeah, you probably don't want people fixing their own for less than $100!
I have recently come into posession of a KP-65WS510 that was free to the taker, I understand why cause this thing is a 300lb monster. When I got it home it did the notorious 8 blinks and no picture ever came up. With a friends help we pulled the G board and checked for bad solder joints, blown fuses and the like. Next we pulled the D board and I checked it thoughoughly, all of the pico fuses check out and the IC's that are known to go bad seem to be origional. My first suspicion was the flyback but I am now leaning towards the HV distro block after reading this post. The neon lamp I dont believe has ever come on, and when I power it up now it blinks 5 times instead of 8. I hear the hum of the power board but no thump or I call it a fart that is normal for CRT's to make when they power on. I would love any input since this is a gorgeous TV and would love to get it working. So far as I can see with my eyes nothing seems burnt or broken, I do have a dmm to check voltages I just dont know where to start.
Please help,
Ken
Update: I just checked ohm res on all of the HV splitter ports and each one measured 11-15k resistance, would that indicate a bad HV splitter? I also watched when I hit the power button and the neon came on for a split second then went out and the set shutdown and started blinking 8 times. (my fault I didnt have the HV reg plug attatched to the D board). If this is a <100$ fix that would make me very happy.
Hi Ken,
Yeah, if you're showing anything but infinite resistance on the hv block then it's bad.
You can pick a used one up off of fleaBay for about $30 and they aren't a real high failure item so it would probably last. Else a new one is in the 70 to $100 range.
Grab a new block and post back after you install it.
Take Care,
Steve
New question, what HV blocks are compatible with this TV set. All of the sony's look pretty much the same.
Well, I went ahead and bought one off eBay that has the last two digits of 31 instead of 32. I'll give it a shot, what harm can I do to a free TV, create a large shooting range target?
I have a feeling it will work, but I will have to wait up to 10 days to get it.
There should be a sticker on it with the part number. According to the service manual for that unit it's a 8-598-955-32 but production changes that don't make it to the service manuals can and do occur so it's always best to confirm the part number with what you take out of the set.
Looking on fleaBay there's no good buys right now on used ones, just a couple for $50 or so (they usually go more around $30). There's a couple new ones for $80 or so. Usually if I have to pay more than half of new I just buy new, but then again $30 is $30 and like I said - they aren't that high of a failure item so a used is probably a safe enough bet.
I think earlier in this thread someone had a source for new ones for around $70 too - maybe read through the thread a bit.
Good luck - I'm pretty sure you've found the culprit since it's failing the resistance check and you are seeing a brief flash on the neon bulb.
Take care, remember to post back and let us know how it went!
Steve
First this is a GREAT site.
I have a Sony KP-51WS500 that I sent to the repair shop. It would flicker on then go blank. 8 code flashes. I have read alot in here regarding this.
The tech has replaced the IC chip. Stated the pico fuses were OK. Tells me that he believes it is the Flyback Transformer.
Cannot find one for this set and he wants to trash it.
From what I have read on this site it is a strong candidate that it is the HV block.
Can purchase one but he will not install aftermarket unit.
I will make a project of this unit before I toss it.
Any ideas? Am I looking in the right direction?
First, pick it up from that shop. The 8 blink problem usually isn't the mcz chip so obviously he didn't even crack the service manual and is just guessing.
The 8 blinks is indicating a problem in the hv side and the service manual does reference the flyback as a probable source of the problem, but as you have read here, it is often the hv block.
This thread details exactly how to remove the hv leads without damaging them and how to test the hv block so do that first and go from there.
Post back what your results are.
BTW, flybacks ARE available.
Take care, remember - post back what you find!
/Steve
Well the tech was having a off week. This is the part # he gave me #8-598-828-10 for a flyback transformer. Now it is out of stock I grant him that. BUT the part is for a D2846. A sony monitor.
I sent in a Sony KP-51WS500. Flyback transformer part #1-453-285-41 and it is avaiable on the sony parts website.
I was so PO'd that I had to go for a rip on the bike. To make that blatent of a error.
So now what do I do? Call him to see where he screwed up? Bring it home do the repairs and then send it back in to be adjusted? Ugggg
He stated to me that he replaced a IC chip. I will assume he means only 1. He said he fired it up and thought he noticed smoke off the flyback. I am crossing my fingers he hasn't pooched my set and that I can salvage it.
This shop is a authorized Sony repair shop.
There's a mcz3001d (I think that's the number, I'm not home right now to confirm) on the G board that likes to go out. On some Sony's there's another one on the D board somewhere I think (I've only worked on a couple WS510s and they only had one, but I think others had more). When they go out the set will blink SIX times. I think he saw the blinking and was lazy and didn't even count, just went right for the mcz chip - at YOUR expense! I think once that didn't work then he did count the blinks and the flyback is just what the manual gives as the probable cause so he's just following that. But again, as per this thread - we've found that's not always true, it's frequently the hv block.
I'm not really trusting him right now so I would take the set back to your place and be rid of him, he's pretty much guessing and your paying him to guess.
Anyway, get it home and then test the hv block as detailed in this thread. There's a good shot that'll fix it. If it doesn't then it probably is a flyback and they are available. If you have any DIY skills you CAN pull the board yourself and replace the flyback. If you're not up to it then keep an eye on fleaBay - complete running D boards go on there in the 100 to $150 dollar range frequently.
OR . . . these sets come up pretty regularly on CraigsList with convergence problems. I've worked on three of them - two I got for free and one I paid $25 for (they wanted $50 but didn't have the remote!). Your set was running fine, just has the hv problem, so your convergence ICs should be fine . . . buy a set with convergence issues cheap off CraigsList, then do a dry run by pulling the board out of your broken set and then remove the STK chips from it. Then put those chips in the broken set and wah lah - you're up and running cheap!
People get too invested in these things. They paid several thousand dollars for it so they GOTTA fix it! If it's convergence, or the mcz chip, or the hv block it's cheap and easy to fix but if you gotta start chasing your tail and reading the service manual on the toilet it's usually just easier / cheaper to cut bait and grab another one!
Anyway, get it back and test the hv block, if it tests bad then replacing it will probably fix it. If it doesn't then it's probably the flyback and you gotta decide if you're up to removing and replacing it, or want to just buy a replacement board, or just a new set and put your stks in it. It's a personal choice you'll have to make once you're considered your skill level.
One last option I guess - print off the instructions on how to test the hv block and go to the shop and make him test it in front of you (the service manual doesn't tell you how to test it, you'll need to print the instructions from this thread).
Keep us posted,
Steve
It will be here Monday.
According to what bwilbert posted no prob to test. Not my first rodeo into electronics but will report back what I find.
OK got the set back. Apologize to tech because he did give me the correct number off the flyback. It is just that on the Sony parts site it dosent list it for this tv. The part number in the service manual matches the Sony site.
I pulled the HV block. Carefully removed and listed the 4 red wires to there location. Pretty simple really. 1st 3 red wires go to the 3 cans. In order. Inside wire goes to flyback. Placed a conductor down into the wire ports on the HV block and checked all 4 ports. The 5th one is capped. There was no resistance of any kind between any port and the ground wire. I know my method was a little unorthodox but I believe from what I read here it is now either the flyback with the odd part number or the IC chips.
Any input is appreciated.
More bad news. When the set went to the shop it powered up and flashed the 8 code. Now back from the shop...nothing. Not even a click. I do not know where to start now. I check the fuse on the G board and it has continuity. I dont know if the tech cut the power somewhere or what.Completely lost now.
Wish I had found this site before all this but there you go.
I am sorry to hear about your trouble Commanche, try not to fret much about it life is too short. There is hope in finding cheap and frequently FREE sets out there on Craigslist all the time. Thats how I found mine, I am not a hater of repair shops but I do question their methods. If you have a digital multi meter carefully pull the boards one at a time and test for continuity on the leads and traces on the board and see if you can narrow down the trouble. It is hit or miss weather just looking at the board will indicate a prob. Double check all the wires and cables are connected to the boards. Best of luck to you.
Well I removed the D board.
The tech told me he changed a chip. Did not say which one but I do not see any thing changed. Alot of dust on the board. He stated that after he changed out the chip he powered up the unit and there was smoke in the area of the flyback.
Now the question. If the flyback fried would that create a no power. not even a click. No red light on the front.
Guess I injoy the challenge to find out if it is dead or just faking.
If he were trying to fix a six blink code orginally then he probably changed the mcz3001d chip which on that unit is on the G board on the upper left side. I have pics but not handy right now - it's easy to spot on the G board though. You will have to remove the G board and then remove it from it's holder to see the back side and see if it's been changed or not. Most replace it with a mcz3001db as it's considered an upgrade to the original. Many put them in sockets too, but that's not a good idea as sockets can cause lots of problems.
I believe the service manual for that unit is available for download from this site - download it. If it's not post back and I'll get up put up for you.
Start with the G board and make sure all the cables are hooked up, then start following the power by testing at various points . . . or just find another on CraigsList! Seriously, these things are usuallypretty easy to find and one with a convergence issue will be much easier for you to fix than trying to figure out what the current problem is and what the last guy did. Nothing worse than following someone else.
Thank you all for all the input. I am not giving up on this unit. Between the little I know about electronics and the vast knowledge I can tap into on this site I will continue to troubleshoot the problem.
Originally a 8 Blink error code. Now a little more than that.
Will post back with any updates. This I guess is how we all learn.
Question. Can the G board be checked with the D board out? In other words leave the power board in place. Disconnect the leads coming off it to the other various components and test the AC voltage at the pins on the power board?
Or will this damage the power board.
I removed it and did a visual inspection on both sides of the board. G Board.No signs of damage. No discolored soldered joints and no broken parts. Was wondering if by disconnecting the leads off the board can I do a voltage check to rule it out as being damaged?
I am ordering a flyback for this unit. Figure in for a penny in for a pound. Just wondering if I am pursuing the correct course of action.
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