i have a rca and the screen kept blinking on and off finally after avbout 6 months it stayed off i heard a pop sound and i hear a loud noise when i plug it in can this be the lamp or something else
I have a HL-R5067w samsung DLP i replaced the light, ballist, and took it a part to check the color wheel... Wheel looks fine... Spins no marks like it was rubbing. ( Problem Was before replacing )Went to start the TV... Bulb would not light and you would hear the fans and wheel spin up then u would hear it turn off then spin up again trying to turn on again. Happens 3 time with all 3 lights blinking at the end... Spend 200 on parts and dont want to spend another 300 of parts because a new TV would be cheaper if i keep throwing parts on it. Any ideas or problems like this out tehre that have been fixed? Same BS FAQ 3 blinking lights are bulb or other problem.... Could they make it any easyer to troubleshoot?
I also have a samsung DLP wich shuts off half hour after starting then every 2 to three minutes after. Have moved tv out from wall 2 ft, put fan behind, cleaned out tv with compressed air and makes no diff, have even bypassed blue switch in back where globe is and still no diff. Surly by now someone knows what is going on. Please help Regards Ian
probably bad lamp even if it is new I have had several new bad lamps in the past, just send it back and tell them it is defective, or perhaps bad capacitors on the power supply board. or in the lamp ballast.Good Luck.
Larry Dillon.
I have a Samsung DLP model HLR-4667W, just replaced the lamp and it appears the unit has blown the new lamp. The wire on the new lamp is broken, confirmed it was ok out of the box. The original Lamp code was BP96-00823A (O), The vendor I purchased the new lamp from shipped me BP96-01073A. Some forums say when you upgrade to the newer model lamp you need to replace the ballast. I hear a clicking noise in the back of the unit. When I Power on the unit the LAMP LED blinks for sometime then all three LEDs blink. The unit will not turn off I had to unplug it. Before buying another lamp and a ballast if they are still available how can I determine it the ballast and not the power supply is the problem, or how can I determine the problem before investing in another lamp? I'm not able to find a parts list or schematics on Samsung's site.
I have a Samsung DLP HL-S4676S and it's always had an issue with how long it takes to turn back on after turning it off. Prior to replacing the bulb it took approx 10min and now it takes 15-20min. It's very annoying and tends to make us leave the TV on all day instead of turning it off just in case someone comes in the room and wants to watch something which never seems to fail once it's turned off. They, of course, want to throw their shoe through it calling it every name in the book. Leaving it on, of course, just burns through the bulb life. Anyone else have this problem ? Anything that can be done about it ?
It looks like I have a shattered Color Wheel, bad Ballast and lamp. What would casue all to fail at the same time? Main Power supply? Any thoughts as if it's worth the investment or buy new?
I removed Lamp and Ballast cleaned dust from every thing put back together still no good, picture goes black after 30 min but lamp is still on, any suggestions what it could be
Ian
I have a Samsung HLT5075sx and recently it had problems turning on it would go thru it's power on cycle 3x before revealing its 3 flashing dots of horror I noticed a clicking/humming sound. I want to fix it because I love this tv! It's actually only 2 years old and I've never had a problem with it since. Any ideas? I don't want to throw money away on purchasing parts I might not need.
I have a samsung also. About two weeks ago now, it started to make a buzzing sound and the picture flickers. Then it straightens up and runs for a few before it does it again.So it is intermitent and is always hard at a cold start up. 30-40 minutes. Any ideas?
So, my problem is this: blue power ring is on, no picture. Lamp LED keeps blinking. But the bulb is shining bright, color wheel is spinning. I can't turn it off unless I unplug it. When I plug it back in, I sometimes hear a whining noise (not grinding). I'm not sure which is the ballast or capacitor. If the bulb is shining, does that mean that works? Also, something does glow when I plug the power cord in, seems like that's making the whining noise. Dont' know what part that is.
Model# HL56A650C1FXZA
It's only 14 months old, of course, out of warranty.
RHT,
sorry, I don't know that much about these tv's. I do know that there is another site, I would surf the archives, there is alot of information in there. You may be able to access info there. ecoustics.
raguusauce said: So, my problem is this: blue power ring is on, no picture. Lamp LED keeps blinking. But the bulb is shining bright, color wheel is spinning. I can't turn it off unless I unplug it. When I plug it back in, I sometimes hear a whining noise (not grinding). I'm not sure which is the ballast or capacitor. If the bulb is shining, does that mean that works? Also, something does glow when I plug the power cord in, seems like that's making the whining noise. Dont' know what part that is. Model# HL56A650C1FXZA It's only 14 months old, of course, out of warranty. Thanks!
From what I've read in different forums, the whining is the ballast. try the same site I recommended for RHT.
I've got a samsung modle hlp 5063 with no sound and no picture. I've replaced the lamp and still nothing nothing comming through the speakers only the quiet sound of the fan running. I can hear the ballast I think trying to fire up the lamp then it stops and shuts down. The power button in front flashes Lamp,Timer and Standby/Temp. I've been testing without any cable hooked up, I just have the tv on my dining room table and plugged into the wall. little help!
You might have a bad power board or blown caps on it there is a download of the service manual for this set in the technicians corner go to the home page then the resources tab then technicians corner, then scroll down.
Larry D.
Larry Dillon said:
You might have a bad power board or blown caps on it there is a download of the service manual for this set in the technicians corner go to the home page then the resources tab then technicians corner, then scroll down.
Larry D.
Well I took the thing apart again and was checking the color wheel and one of those little filiments fell off but not all the way just hung ther kinda loose. I was ready to throw in the towel so I put everything back together kept the back open and put my cordless drill proping that little blue sensor thing and one last time plugged it back in, nothing but then wiggled the ballast plug and the lamp came on in all it's glory! Only thing now was a loud noise from inside my guess an off balanced color wheel because of that little filiment hanging off. I pushed it some more and hooked up the cable box and the tv wasw on! Volume and picture! So definitly check that little plug that goes into the ballast. Maybe it's good to take stuff apart because it gets the dust off a little I'm not all that sure but it works now. Oh I need a new color wheel.
when you turn my tv on then after about a minute later if that shuts off and makes a little buzzing noise for 2 or three seconds then turns itself back on and does it all over agian and agian. What could this be?
56 Inch Samsung DLP said: when you turn my tv on then after about a minute later if that shuts off and makes a little buzzing noise for 2 or three seconds then turns itself back on and does it all over agian and agian. What could this be?
Like I said, I'm not an expert. I just hit the internet and started surfing. I did get my 42" sammy fixed. My got to that point, before I finally said enough is enough. When I pulled my colorwheel it was so hard to turn, pretty much completely gone. I finally, by searching found the one I needed.I finally got the new one in, with all of the manual and service adjustments and she runs like a dream. It wasn't as much of a job as I thought, but if you are doing it solo, can be a little intimidating. I found some info at jangro,ecoustics,but rarely an answer to my questions. All I di is type exactly what I wanted to know into my search engine and went to one after the other website. between exploring archives and new threads was able to piece it together. As I have said love my sammy,it has one of the best pictures. I really hope someone else will pipe up and help, to let you know if it could be more.
How To Replace the Color Wheel in Your Samsung DLP Television and Save $400
and samsung dlp.
Just need to change your bulb? Read this: how to change your Samsung DLP Lamp.
This isnÂ’t exactly about affiliate marketing or SEO, but I hope it helps someoneÂ…
IÂ’ve got one of the early models of the Samsung 43″ DLP Television sets. WeÂ’ve been through a lot together, but itÂ’s just a fantastic picture. I love it.
Thankfully, I purchased the extended warranty for 4 years, because IÂ’ve been through 3 lamps. However, as always, something went wrong after the warranty expired. It started a few months ago, a buzzing sound. It started out pretty soft, like someone was holding a very thin wire in the blades of a running fan. As weeks passed, that sound increased, and finally it became an all-out scream (just in time for the World Cup).
Inside this television are only two moving parts that could cause that sound, the cooling fan and the color wheel. I know about the color wheel because IÂ’ve seen it talked about over and over again on the Internet. I think the service guy may have mentioned it once or twice when he was here replacing the lamp. With all that mention, clearly this thing has issues. And, I can see the fan, and it doesnÂ’t spin at the same time that this sound is produced.
WhatÂ’s a color wheel? IÂ’m not sure exactly itÂ’s purpose, but it has a small motor and it spins at about 9000 RPM. The older model Samsung televisions are plagued with the problem where the bearings in this little motor go and starts to sound like a banshee, or at least what I imagine a screaming banshee to sound like. Anyway, itÂ’s pretty bad.
It needed to be replaced. There was no longer any putting it off. I happened to mention it to a BestBuy sales-kid and asked him where I should have it fixed. He said I could just call a local Samsung authorized repair shop, or “you could just repair it yourself.” The words echoed in my mind. I never considered that possibility and I dreaded the thought of my television being picked up or dropped off and gone for weeks. When I got home, I went online and found a few forums where guys shared that they successfully replaced their own color wheels and that it wasn’t that difficult. Say no more…
If you have the same problem and are thinking about fixing it yourself, it really isnÂ’t that difficult. If youÂ’ve ever taken your PC apart, this is not much differentÂ… The process involves about 20 screws, 5 or 6 cables to unplug, and of course put it all back. The toughest part about these projects is knowing what to take out and where to look for the part youÂ’re replacing. The first time, I took out quite a bit more screws and cables than necessary. I did it again to write this article and now you donÂ’t need to think about all that.
Compatible Samsung Models
• BP96-00250A
• HLM507
• HLN4365W1X/XAA
• HLN467WX
• HLM4365
• HLM507WX
• HLN4365WX
• HLN467WX/XAA
• HLM4365WX
• HLM617
• HLN4365WX/XAA
• HLN5065
• HLM437
• HLM617WS
• HLN437
• HLN5065W
• HLM437W
• HLM617WS/XAA
• HLN437W
• HLN5065W1X
• HLM437WX
• HLM617WX
• HLN437W1X
• HLN5065W1X/XAA
• HLM5065
• HLN4365
• HLN437W1X/XAA
• HLN5065WX
• HLM5065W
• HLN4365W
• HLN437WX
• HLN5065WX/XAA
• HLM5065WX
• HLN4365W1X
• HLN467
• HLN507
• HLN507W
• HLN567WX/XAA
• HLN617WX/XAA
• HLP5063WX/XAA
• HLN507W1X
• HLN617
• HLP4663W
• HLP5674W
• HLN507WX
• HLN617W1X
• HLP4674W
• HLP5674WX/XAA
• HLN507WX/XAA
• HLN617W1X/XAA
• HLP4674WX/XAA
• HLR4677WX/XAA
• HLN567
• HLN617WX
• HLP5063W
• HLR5677WX/XAA
• HLN567W
• HLN617WX/XA
• HLP5063WX/XA
• L62A
• HLN567WX
Purchase a Color Wheel
I found a few different places that carried this replacement part. The cheapest by far was PartStore.com who carries it just over $100. So much cheaper than the next lowest I found that I paid for overnight shipping, and still did better. I ordered it on a Monday, it shipped on Tuesday, my television was fixed on Wednesday.
My television is model Samsung HLM4365WX and the color wheel part number for that is BP96-00250A. This color wheel is used in many, many Samsung televisions, but you should confirm that your model is on the compatability list
The Repair Job
Requirements:
• Philips screwdriver, not too small and at least 5 inches long. There’s one screw that’s a reach.
• Tiny (jewler’s) screwdriver. You may not need this. I needed it to get a connector off.
• Tweezers. I needed them to get to a few screws in tight places.
• Compressed air. I didn’t have this, but I wish I did. It’s dusty in there.
• Pen and paper. I took copious notes. If you do anything that I don’t talk about here, you should write it down. I carefully documented every cable that I unplugged and every part I removed. Thank God I did that.
• 1-2 hours (first time I did this, it took 90 minutes. Second time 60 minutes, with photography)
• Nerves of steel and air conditioning. Don’t drip sweat into your television.
Notes:
• In this document, left and right are “stage-left” and “stage-right”, or the left and right sides of the set as you look at the back, facing your sofa.
• Almost all of the screws are identical. You can safely keep them all in the same cup, or pile on the table, or carpet, or wherever you store the screws.
• Don’t touch anything that looks like light will shine through it, like the projector lens or the colorwheel itself.
• DON’T rely on this document entirely. Pay close attention and take notes or digital pictures.
• If you were just watching your TV, your projector lamp will be HOT. Let it cool down.
1. Remove the back panel from the television set. The panel runs the entire width of the bottom rear of the set. ThereÂ’s no need to remove the access panel for the lamp. ThatÂ’ll come off with the panel. There are 14 screws.
2. Remove the projector lamp. This may be unnecessary, but (a) it letÂ’s you see your target (the color wheel) and (b) it just seems like the safe thing to do. ItÂ’s easy. Just unscrew the two brass screws holding it in. ItÂ’s on the right side of the TV. The screws wonÂ’t come out, just pull them out with the whole unit by pulling on the handle and sliding it straight out. Carefully store it somewhere safe.
3. Remove the panel on the left side by removing two screws holding it in place. Carefully slide it and the attached PC board out a few inches until cables stop you. You wonÂ’t actually need to remove any cables from this board to get at the color wheel. (Of course I removed most of them the first time.)
4. Carefully note how the power cable is positioned in the set, and the route it takes out the back. Once you have done that, pull the power cord out of itÂ’s notch in the bottom of the case. ItÂ’s blocking the next part that has to slide out.
5. Remove the center panel. Remove the two screws in the bottom that have larger heads than the rest. You donÂ’t need to take off the regular sized screws that fasten the back panel to the base. TheyÂ’ll all slide out together. Remove the top two screws that hold the panel to the plastic case.
Center panel. The two screws on the bottom have larger heads than the rest. Remember that these go here. There are two more screws on the bottom that hold the vertical panel to the base. No need to remove them. If you do, things get a bit floppy.
6. Slide out the center unit slowly, just a few inches and take a peek inside as you do. ItÂ’s a snug fit, so youÂ’ll need to ease out both the top and bottom at the same time. Some things to notice as you do this. Look at how the projector lens is fitted inside a foam sheath. YouÂ’ll need to put that back later, so take a good look.
There are a few cables on the left side restricting it. YouÂ’ll need to unplug these:
• blue/brown two-wire power cable. You’ll need to unplug this from the main set.
• blue/white cable connecting to the left side. Squeeze the plug to unlatch it and remove it from the center unit that you’re removing.
• Sensor switch on the right side. Unscrew this from the tv case bracket.
This arrow is pointing to two of the cables. Follow the brown/blue one to the other end to unplug it. Right behind this arrow is the white connector for the white/blue cable.
HereÂ’s one of the screws that are different. Remember to use the smaller brass screw here later.
Now you can slide the center panel and all the parts behind it out of the television. If you didnÂ’t remove any cables on the left panel, youÂ’ll have to swing everything over to the left to clear the television.
Note: Steps 7-9 are removing the bad color wheel. I suggest doing these steps carefully, as if you were going to need to use this color wheel again. You never know if you may need to reverse what youÂ’ve done.
7. Locate the color wheel cover. ItÂ’s got a small green circuit board on top of it with a black/blue wires connected to it. Remove that plug. Also, and this is the trickiest part, remove the two cables coming from the color wheel. One is a copper-colored ribbon cable. That will just slide out easily. The other is a cable with two white and one blue wire. This one is tricky to remove, so youÂ’ll need to ease it out. I pried it out with a jewelerÂ’s screwdriver. DO NOT just pull on the wires.
Note: A reader made the following excellent suggestion to avoid breaking the white connector on the end of the blue/white/white wire:
Having replaced quite a few of these colorwheels as a Samsung service tech, I have found that you do not have to remove the blue/white wire from the DMD board (avoiding the risk of damage to the optical engine) There is enough slack in the wire to route it around the cover when removing it. You can then unplug the wire from the old colorwheel and plug it in the new one (the plastic tab will break off the old connector when you go to remove it,but it will still fit snugly on the new colorwheel) Using this method I have had no problems reusing the old connecting cable
Color wheel cover view from top-down. This part has three screws and slides straight up.
8. Unscrew the color wheel cover. There are three screws holding it in place. One to the rear of the set, and two in front. The one to the rear is tucked way in, so I just unscrewed them and carefully left them in place and pulled them out with the cover. Slide the cover straight up, exposing the color wheel. As you do, note where the color wheel wires go — out the gap in the front.
9. Remove the bad color wheel. The color wheel is held in place with three screws. Remove the screws and the color wheel. The color wheel may be stuck in place with the foam tape, but thatÂ’ll give with a small tug. To remove the wheel cleanly, I lifted the front edge and slid it toward the front.
10. Insert the new colorwheel. It can be tricky to do this without touching the wheel, or bumping the wheel into the case. (This is where you need the nerves of steel). Once you get the proper angle, it will slide into place. Don’t force it — remember, this thing needs to spin at 9000 RPM, it’s probably pretty sensitive. At first, I tried to put it in place with the screws already in the holes. This didn’t allow me to slide it in properly. Lesson learned: put it in without the screws and then hold the screws in place with tweezers, if necessary.
11. Put the color wheel cover back on with the wires out the space facing the front of the case. Make sure the wires reach their destinations, and screw in the cover. Three screws. Attach the three connectors. The metal contacts on the ribbon cable face the rear.
12. Put all the guts back in place. Slide the center unit back in. Without touching the projector lens, open up the slice in the foam so it wraps around the projector lens, and slide it in the rest of the way. The center unit can only go in on itÂ’s track, so again, donÂ’t force anything. Connect the two wires you removed on the left side. They should only go in one way. Did I mention donÂ’t force anything? Screw the sensor switch onto the bracket on the right.
13. Put the power cable in itÂ’s slot. Just the way you noted on the way out.
14. Slide the left PC board and panel back in place. There are two screws that hold it in place that you screw in now, the rest hold on the access panel.
15. Put the projector lamp back in place and screw it into place. I forgot to do this both times.
16. Put the access panel back on and screw it in (14 screws)
17. Plug in the television, say a prayer, and turn it on.
Update
A number of people have commented that after changing the color wheel, their red and blue colors are reversed. This is a different color wheel and a newer model set than is documented here, but, some report that by removing a jumper on the color wheel, the problem is resolved.
The jumper is as shown in this picture, below the yellow/white label.
Thanks to Tref for the picture!
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let's try this again....
I have a 56" dlp Samsung. The other day the color went out. More like it went grainy, almost like a negative. And it wouldn't shut off. So I killed the power. I waited a few then turned it back on and it was fine. Today, i go to turn it on and I get the LAMP, STANDBY/TEMP, and TIMER lights blinking but nothing on the screen. And it won't shut down with the button or remote. Only pulling power. History: I have replaced the Lamp about 2 years ago and the color wheel about 1 year ago. Everything I've read its either the lamp or the ballast. I'm hoping that with the extra info, someone might be able to direct me to a more finite conclusion.
Ok here it is again: I have a 50" Samsung DLP HLR5067W. About 7 months ago the color wheel broke and my husband replaced it - the TV worked fine. About a month ago the TV would not start despite repeated efforts - it would only power off when the plug was removed.
My husband changed the color wheel again as well as the ballast. When it still didn't work he changed the lamp (the Timer, Lamp, and Standby lights were blinking simultaneously). Well, the TV still doesn't work and all 3 lights are still blinking.
Can anyone help? Do you think this problem is fixable or should we just say goodbye to our TV? We've already spent $500 since the first color wheel replacement.
Help!! I have Samsung hdl, and the screen has gone gray, the "lamp" light is blinking, but the lamp is on. I can only turn it off bu unplugging it. Would the lamp still light up if the ballast is bad? What else could the problem be, abd what kind of repair expenses am I looking at??
My 46in Samsung will not fire up...it keeps trying and I can see some flashes from the lamp but it will not light. From looking on the internet it sounded like it was the lamp ballast for sure, but I just go the new one and installed it and the same thing is happening. I don't think it is the lamp, that was replaced a couple of months ago, the color wheel was replaced before that...I mean how bad are these TV's? I still have a tube TV from 15 years ago that works perfectly. This TV is only 5 years old. Any ideas on what it might be???
I Use 2 80mm USB FANS To keep my lamp cool, I have one fan pushing air in from The Back and one fan pushing air out on the side. it helps to stop the dlp from getting to hot and turning off. and no craking sounds after I turn off the dlp.
I have a 56 inch dlp. Its 5 yrs old and have had no problems. Now when I shut it off I hear a loud sound as if the fan may be hitting something for about 10 secs til it powers off. Is this something I can fix myself?
i have a rca and the screen kept blinking on and off finally after avbout 6 months it stayed off i heard a pop sound and i hear a loud noise when i plug it in can this be the lamp or something else
I have a HL-R5067w samsung DLP i replaced the light, ballist, and took it a part to check the color wheel... Wheel looks fine... Spins no marks like it was rubbing. ( Problem Was before replacing )Went to start the TV... Bulb would not light and you would hear the fans and wheel spin up then u would hear it turn off then spin up again trying to turn on again. Happens 3 time with all 3 lights blinking at the end... Spend 200 on parts and dont want to spend another 300 of parts because a new TV would be cheaper if i keep throwing parts on it. Any ideas or problems like this out tehre that have been fixed? Same BS FAQ 3 blinking lights are bulb or other problem.... Could they make it any easyer to troubleshoot?
I also have a samsung DLP wich shuts off half hour after starting then every 2 to three minutes after. Have moved tv out from wall 2 ft, put fan behind, cleaned out tv with compressed air and makes no diff, have even bypassed blue switch in back where globe is and still no diff. Surly by now someone knows what is going on. Please help Regards Ian
probably bad lamp even if it is new I have had several new bad lamps in the past, just send it back and tell them it is defective, or perhaps bad capacitors on the power supply board. or in the lamp ballast.Good Luck.
Larry Dillon.
I have a Samsung DLP model HLR-4667W, just replaced the lamp and it appears the unit has blown the new lamp. The wire on the new lamp is broken, confirmed it was ok out of the box. The original Lamp code was BP96-00823A (O), The vendor I purchased the new lamp from shipped me BP96-01073A. Some forums say when you upgrade to the newer model lamp you need to replace the ballast. I hear a clicking noise in the back of the unit. When I Power on the unit the LAMP LED blinks for sometime then all three LEDs blink. The unit will not turn off I had to unplug it. Before buying another lamp and a ballast if they are still available how can I determine it the ballast and not the power supply is the problem, or how can I determine the problem before investing in another lamp? I'm not able to find a parts list or schematics on Samsung's site.
i went to the http://www.samsungparts.com/search/search.asp and pasted in HLR4667W
and they have a lot of parts for your dlp
I have a Samsung DLP HL-S4676S and it's always had an issue with how long it takes to turn back on after turning it off. Prior to replacing the bulb it took approx 10min and now it takes 15-20min. It's very annoying and tends to make us leave the TV on all day instead of turning it off just in case someone comes in the room and wants to watch something which never seems to fail once it's turned off. They, of course, want to throw their shoe through it calling it every name in the book. Leaving it on, of course, just burns through the bulb life. Anyone else have this problem ? Anything that can be done about it ?
It looks like I have a shattered Color Wheel, bad Ballast and lamp. What would casue all to fail at the same time? Main Power supply? Any thoughts as if it's worth the investment or buy new?
Thanks
I removed Lamp and Ballast cleaned dust from every thing put back together still no good, picture goes black after 30 min but lamp is still on, any suggestions what it could be
Ian
I have a Samsung HLT5075sx and recently it had problems turning on it would go thru it's power on cycle 3x before revealing its 3 flashing dots of horror I noticed a clicking/humming sound. I want to fix it because I love this tv! It's actually only 2 years old and I've never had a problem with it since. Any ideas? I don't want to throw money away on purchasing parts I might not need.
I have a samsung also. About two weeks ago now, it started to make a buzzing sound and the picture flickers. Then it straightens up and runs for a few before it does it again.So it is intermitent and is always hard at a cold start up. 30-40 minutes. Any ideas?
newele,
sounds like the color wheel.
I am having a problem with no picture, 3 blinking led's, new bulb. Is there a way to check if the ballast is bad?
So, my problem is this: blue power ring is on, no picture. Lamp LED keeps blinking. But the bulb is shining bright, color wheel is spinning. I can't turn it off unless I unplug it. When I plug it back in, I sometimes hear a whining noise (not grinding). I'm not sure which is the ballast or capacitor. If the bulb is shining, does that mean that works? Also, something does glow when I plug the power cord in, seems like that's making the whining noise. Dont' know what part that is.
Model# HL56A650C1FXZA
It's only 14 months old, of course, out of warranty.
Thanks!
RHT,
sorry, I don't know that much about these tv's. I do know that there is another site, I would surf the archives, there is alot of information in there. You may be able to access info there. ecoustics.
From what I've read in different forums, the whining is the ballast. try the same site I recommended for RHT.
I've got a samsung modle hlp 5063 with no sound and no picture. I've replaced the lamp and still nothing nothing comming through the speakers only the quiet sound of the fan running. I can hear the ballast I think trying to fire up the lamp then it stops and shuts down. The power button in front flashes Lamp,Timer and Standby/Temp. I've been testing without any cable hooked up, I just have the tv on my dining room table and plugged into the wall. little help!
You might have a bad power board or blown caps on it there is a download of the service manual for this set in the technicians corner go to the home page then the resources tab then technicians corner, then scroll down.
Larry D.
Well I took the thing apart again and was checking the color wheel and one of those little filiments fell off but not all the way just hung ther kinda loose. I was ready to throw in the towel so I put everything back together kept the back open and put my cordless drill proping that little blue sensor thing and one last time plugged it back in, nothing but then wiggled the ballast plug and the lamp came on in all it's glory! Only thing now was a loud noise from inside my guess an off balanced color wheel because of that little filiment hanging off. I pushed it some more and hooked up the cable box and the tv wasw on! Volume and picture! So definitly check that little plug that goes into the ballast. Maybe it's good to take stuff apart because it gets the dust off a little I'm not all that sure but it works now. Oh I need a new color wheel.
when you turn my tv on then after about a minute later if that shuts off and makes a little buzzing noise for 2 or three seconds then turns itself back on and does it all over agian and agian. What could this be?
Like I said, I'm not an expert. I just hit the internet and started surfing. I did get my 42" sammy fixed. My got to that point, before I finally said enough is enough. When I pulled my colorwheel it was so hard to turn, pretty much completely gone. I finally, by searching found the one I needed.I finally got the new one in, with all of the manual and service adjustments and she runs like a dream. It wasn't as much of a job as I thought, but if you are doing it solo, can be a little intimidating. I found some info at jangro,ecoustics,but rarely an answer to my questions. All I di is type exactly what I wanted to know into my search engine and went to one after the other website. between exploring archives and new threads was able to piece it together. As I have said love my sammy,it has one of the best pictures. I really hope someone else will pipe up and help, to let you know if it could be more.
How To Replace the Color Wheel in Your Samsung DLP Television and Save $400
and samsung dlp.
Just need to change your bulb? Read this: how to change your Samsung DLP Lamp.
This isnÂ’t exactly about affiliate marketing or SEO, but I hope it helps someoneÂ…
IÂ’ve got one of the early models of the Samsung 43″ DLP Television sets. WeÂ’ve been through a lot together, but itÂ’s just a fantastic picture. I love it.
Thankfully, I purchased the extended warranty for 4 years, because IÂ’ve been through 3 lamps. However, as always, something went wrong after the warranty expired. It started a few months ago, a buzzing sound. It started out pretty soft, like someone was holding a very thin wire in the blades of a running fan. As weeks passed, that sound increased, and finally it became an all-out scream (just in time for the World Cup).
Inside this television are only two moving parts that could cause that sound, the cooling fan and the color wheel. I know about the color wheel because IÂ’ve seen it talked about over and over again on the Internet. I think the service guy may have mentioned it once or twice when he was here replacing the lamp. With all that mention, clearly this thing has issues. And, I can see the fan, and it doesnÂ’t spin at the same time that this sound is produced.
WhatÂ’s a color wheel? IÂ’m not sure exactly itÂ’s purpose, but it has a small motor and it spins at about 9000 RPM. The older model Samsung televisions are plagued with the problem where the bearings in this little motor go and starts to sound like a banshee, or at least what I imagine a screaming banshee to sound like. Anyway, itÂ’s pretty bad.
It needed to be replaced. There was no longer any putting it off. I happened to mention it to a BestBuy sales-kid and asked him where I should have it fixed. He said I could just call a local Samsung authorized repair shop, or “you could just repair it yourself.” The words echoed in my mind. I never considered that possibility and I dreaded the thought of my television being picked up or dropped off and gone for weeks. When I got home, I went online and found a few forums where guys shared that they successfully replaced their own color wheels and that it wasn’t that difficult. Say no more…
If you have the same problem and are thinking about fixing it yourself, it really isnÂ’t that difficult. If youÂ’ve ever taken your PC apart, this is not much differentÂ… The process involves about 20 screws, 5 or 6 cables to unplug, and of course put it all back. The toughest part about these projects is knowing what to take out and where to look for the part youÂ’re replacing. The first time, I took out quite a bit more screws and cables than necessary. I did it again to write this article and now you donÂ’t need to think about all that.
Compatible Samsung Models
• BP96-00250A
• HLM507
• HLN4365W1X/XAA
• HLN467WX
• HLM4365
• HLM507WX
• HLN4365WX
• HLN467WX/XAA
• HLM4365WX
• HLM617
• HLN4365WX/XAA
• HLN5065
• HLM437
• HLM617WS
• HLN437
• HLN5065W
• HLM437W
• HLM617WS/XAA
• HLN437W
• HLN5065W1X
• HLM437WX
• HLM617WX
• HLN437W1X
• HLN5065W1X/XAA
• HLM5065
• HLN4365
• HLN437W1X/XAA
• HLN5065WX
• HLM5065W
• HLN4365W
• HLN437WX
• HLN5065WX/XAA
• HLM5065WX
• HLN4365W1X
• HLN467
• HLN507
• HLN507W
• HLN567WX/XAA
• HLN617WX/XAA
• HLP5063WX/XAA
• HLN507W1X
• HLN617
• HLP4663W
• HLP5674W
• HLN507WX
• HLN617W1X
• HLP4674W
• HLP5674WX/XAA
• HLN507WX/XAA
• HLN617W1X/XAA
• HLP4674WX/XAA
• HLR4677WX/XAA
• HLN567
• HLN617WX
• HLP5063W
• HLR5677WX/XAA
• HLN567W
• HLN617WX/XA
• HLP5063WX/XA
• L62A
• HLN567WX
Purchase a Color Wheel
I found a few different places that carried this replacement part. The cheapest by far was PartStore.com who carries it just over $100. So much cheaper than the next lowest I found that I paid for overnight shipping, and still did better. I ordered it on a Monday, it shipped on Tuesday, my television was fixed on Wednesday.
My television is model Samsung HLM4365WX and the color wheel part number for that is BP96-00250A. This color wheel is used in many, many Samsung televisions, but you should confirm that your model is on the compatability list
The Repair Job
Requirements:
• Philips screwdriver, not too small and at least 5 inches long. There’s one screw that’s a reach.
• Tiny (jewler’s) screwdriver. You may not need this. I needed it to get a connector off.
• Tweezers. I needed them to get to a few screws in tight places.
• Compressed air. I didn’t have this, but I wish I did. It’s dusty in there.
• Pen and paper. I took copious notes. If you do anything that I don’t talk about here, you should write it down. I carefully documented every cable that I unplugged and every part I removed. Thank God I did that.
• 1-2 hours (first time I did this, it took 90 minutes. Second time 60 minutes, with photography)
• Nerves of steel and air conditioning. Don’t drip sweat into your television.
Notes:
• In this document, left and right are “stage-left” and “stage-right”, or the left and right sides of the set as you look at the back, facing your sofa.
• Almost all of the screws are identical. You can safely keep them all in the same cup, or pile on the table, or carpet, or wherever you store the screws.
• Don’t touch anything that looks like light will shine through it, like the projector lens or the colorwheel itself.
• DON’T rely on this document entirely. Pay close attention and take notes or digital pictures.
• If you were just watching your TV, your projector lamp will be HOT. Let it cool down.
1. Remove the back panel from the television set. The panel runs the entire width of the bottom rear of the set. ThereÂ’s no need to remove the access panel for the lamp. ThatÂ’ll come off with the panel. There are 14 screws.
2. Remove the projector lamp. This may be unnecessary, but (a) it letÂ’s you see your target (the color wheel) and (b) it just seems like the safe thing to do. ItÂ’s easy. Just unscrew the two brass screws holding it in. ItÂ’s on the right side of the TV. The screws wonÂ’t come out, just pull them out with the whole unit by pulling on the handle and sliding it straight out. Carefully store it somewhere safe.
3. Remove the panel on the left side by removing two screws holding it in place. Carefully slide it and the attached PC board out a few inches until cables stop you. You wonÂ’t actually need to remove any cables from this board to get at the color wheel. (Of course I removed most of them the first time.)
4. Carefully note how the power cable is positioned in the set, and the route it takes out the back. Once you have done that, pull the power cord out of itÂ’s notch in the bottom of the case. ItÂ’s blocking the next part that has to slide out.
5. Remove the center panel. Remove the two screws in the bottom that have larger heads than the rest. You donÂ’t need to take off the regular sized screws that fasten the back panel to the base. TheyÂ’ll all slide out together. Remove the top two screws that hold the panel to the plastic case.
Center panel. The two screws on the bottom have larger heads than the rest. Remember that these go here. There are two more screws on the bottom that hold the vertical panel to the base. No need to remove them. If you do, things get a bit floppy.
6. Slide out the center unit slowly, just a few inches and take a peek inside as you do. ItÂ’s a snug fit, so youÂ’ll need to ease out both the top and bottom at the same time. Some things to notice as you do this. Look at how the projector lens is fitted inside a foam sheath. YouÂ’ll need to put that back later, so take a good look.
There are a few cables on the left side restricting it. YouÂ’ll need to unplug these:
• blue/brown two-wire power cable. You’ll need to unplug this from the main set.
• blue/white cable connecting to the left side. Squeeze the plug to unlatch it and remove it from the center unit that you’re removing.
• Sensor switch on the right side. Unscrew this from the tv case bracket.
This arrow is pointing to two of the cables. Follow the brown/blue one to the other end to unplug it. Right behind this arrow is the white connector for the white/blue cable.
HereÂ’s one of the screws that are different. Remember to use the smaller brass screw here later.
Now you can slide the center panel and all the parts behind it out of the television. If you didnÂ’t remove any cables on the left panel, youÂ’ll have to swing everything over to the left to clear the television.
Note: Steps 7-9 are removing the bad color wheel. I suggest doing these steps carefully, as if you were going to need to use this color wheel again. You never know if you may need to reverse what youÂ’ve done.
7. Locate the color wheel cover. ItÂ’s got a small green circuit board on top of it with a black/blue wires connected to it. Remove that plug. Also, and this is the trickiest part, remove the two cables coming from the color wheel. One is a copper-colored ribbon cable. That will just slide out easily. The other is a cable with two white and one blue wire. This one is tricky to remove, so youÂ’ll need to ease it out. I pried it out with a jewelerÂ’s screwdriver. DO NOT just pull on the wires.
Note: A reader made the following excellent suggestion to avoid breaking the white connector on the end of the blue/white/white wire:
Having replaced quite a few of these colorwheels as a Samsung service tech, I have found that you do not have to remove the blue/white wire from the DMD board (avoiding the risk of damage to the optical engine) There is enough slack in the wire to route it around the cover when removing it. You can then unplug the wire from the old colorwheel and plug it in the new one (the plastic tab will break off the old connector when you go to remove it,but it will still fit snugly on the new colorwheel) Using this method I have had no problems reusing the old connecting cable
Color wheel cover view from top-down. This part has three screws and slides straight up.
8. Unscrew the color wheel cover. There are three screws holding it in place. One to the rear of the set, and two in front. The one to the rear is tucked way in, so I just unscrewed them and carefully left them in place and pulled them out with the cover. Slide the cover straight up, exposing the color wheel. As you do, note where the color wheel wires go — out the gap in the front.
9. Remove the bad color wheel. The color wheel is held in place with three screws. Remove the screws and the color wheel. The color wheel may be stuck in place with the foam tape, but thatÂ’ll give with a small tug. To remove the wheel cleanly, I lifted the front edge and slid it toward the front.
10. Insert the new colorwheel. It can be tricky to do this without touching the wheel, or bumping the wheel into the case. (This is where you need the nerves of steel). Once you get the proper angle, it will slide into place. Don’t force it — remember, this thing needs to spin at 9000 RPM, it’s probably pretty sensitive. At first, I tried to put it in place with the screws already in the holes. This didn’t allow me to slide it in properly. Lesson learned: put it in without the screws and then hold the screws in place with tweezers, if necessary.
11. Put the color wheel cover back on with the wires out the space facing the front of the case. Make sure the wires reach their destinations, and screw in the cover. Three screws. Attach the three connectors. The metal contacts on the ribbon cable face the rear.
12. Put all the guts back in place. Slide the center unit back in. Without touching the projector lens, open up the slice in the foam so it wraps around the projector lens, and slide it in the rest of the way. The center unit can only go in on itÂ’s track, so again, donÂ’t force anything. Connect the two wires you removed on the left side. They should only go in one way. Did I mention donÂ’t force anything? Screw the sensor switch onto the bracket on the right.
13. Put the power cable in itÂ’s slot. Just the way you noted on the way out.
14. Slide the left PC board and panel back in place. There are two screws that hold it in place that you screw in now, the rest hold on the access panel.
15. Put the projector lamp back in place and screw it into place. I forgot to do this both times.
16. Put the access panel back on and screw it in (14 screws)
17. Plug in the television, say a prayer, and turn it on.
Update
A number of people have commented that after changing the color wheel, their red and blue colors are reversed. This is a different color wheel and a newer model set than is documented here, but, some report that by removing a jumper on the color wheel, the problem is resolved.
The jumper is as shown in this picture, below the yellow/white label.
Thanks to Tref for the picture!
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let's try this again....
I have a 56" dlp Samsung. The other day the color went out. More like it went grainy, almost like a negative. And it wouldn't shut off. So I killed the power. I waited a few then turned it back on and it was fine. Today, i go to turn it on and I get the LAMP, STANDBY/TEMP, and TIMER lights blinking but nothing on the screen. And it won't shut down with the button or remote. Only pulling power. History: I have replaced the Lamp about 2 years ago and the color wheel about 1 year ago. Everything I've read its either the lamp or the ballast. I'm hoping that with the extra info, someone might be able to direct me to a more finite conclusion.
Thank you
you probably need the lamp to be re-placed!?
Larry D.
last night I turned my Samsung hl56a650c1fxza on, and all that happened was a gray screen came on and the little green
Ok here it is again: I have a 50" Samsung DLP HLR5067W. About 7 months ago the color wheel broke and my husband replaced it - the TV worked fine. About a month ago the TV would not start despite repeated efforts - it would only power off when the plug was removed.
My husband changed the color wheel again as well as the ballast. When it still didn't work he changed the lamp (the Timer, Lamp, and Standby lights were blinking simultaneously). Well, the TV still doesn't work and all 3 lights are still blinking.
Can anyone help? Do you think this problem is fixable or should we just say goodbye to our TV? We've already spent $500 since the first color wheel replacement.
Help!! I have Samsung hdl, and the screen has gone gray, the "lamp" light is blinking, but the lamp is on. I can only turn it off bu unplugging it. Would the lamp still light up if the ballast is bad? What else could the problem be, abd what kind of repair expenses am I looking at??
My 46in Samsung will not fire up...it keeps trying and I can see some flashes from the lamp but it will not light. From looking on the internet it sounded like it was the lamp ballast for sure, but I just go the new one and installed it and the same thing is happening. I don't think it is the lamp, that was replaced a couple of months ago, the color wheel was replaced before that...I mean how bad are these TV's? I still have a tube TV from 15 years ago that works perfectly. This TV is only 5 years old. Any ideas on what it might be???
I Use 2 80mm USB FANS To keep my lamp cool, I have one fan pushing air in from The Back and one fan pushing air out on the side. it helps to stop the dlp from getting to hot and turning off. and no craking sounds after I turn off the dlp.
UPDATE: replaced the Lamp. All 3 lights are still flashing. TV will not shut down and nothing comes on the screen. any more Ideas?
I have a 56 inch dlp. Its 5 yrs old and have had no problems. Now when I shut it off I hear a loud sound as if the fan may be hitting something for about 10 secs til it powers off. Is this something I can fix myself?
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