Hi, I've read several threads regarding the blinking green light issue I'm having. I have a Mitsubishi Model#: WS- 48613. The power in my house went off and the green light has been blinking nonstop and nothing appears on the screen. I have tried to reset the TV but have had no luck. I don't want to miss another weekend of football!
If someone could please send me the parts list and the documentation mentioned on how to fix the problem, it would be greatly appreciated. Please send to [email protected]. Thanks again!!
I've got the same issue. If I have any luck when I tear down my set this weekend I'll let you know what I find.
replace the four 1000uf 16V capacitors on the DM board. Use the 105 degree high temp capacitors . you can sub the 1000uf 25V capacitors without any problems.
Thanks slinteriors! Last night I pulled the back off the set and did a mild dust cleaning. Didn't see any visible external damage, but I'll go back in after work and look for these components.
For verification (and less trouble), the DM board is the large PDB where the AC comes in and is to the right (if looking at the back of the set)? I noticed the A/V board on the left, but couldn't locate any labels describing either.
No the DM is all the way to the right in the stand up metal encased module. Send me a email at [email protected] and I will send you instructions on how to do the repair, be sure to remind me of your model number so I send the right info.
slintriors - with the help of the diagram you emailed, I replaced the 4 caps (sure enough - they were domed on top) and the set came back to life.
Thank you again!!!
Hey Stinteriors... Looks like I'm having the same problem iwth my WS48613 (blinking green light and a dead tv). Would you mind emailing me your guide as well?
Thanks in advance!
tjf
Here's the file on a file sharing host.
http://rapidshare.com/files/157277544/V23_DM_Repair_Instructions.pdf.html
I have exactly the same problem with my WS-48613. We've been losing our power a lot lately. Now the TV light just blinks and nothing works. I even talked to Mitsubishi. They said to hold the menu button down for 8 seconds. This didn't work for me. I'm starting from scratch here. I'd really appreciate it if someone could tell me from the beginning how to fix this. Also, any idea how to prevent this in the future? I had it plugged into a surge protector.
My email is [email protected]
Thanks.
Yeah, I replaced the 4 caps and unfortunately am still in the same position.
try reseating the dM as described in the dirctions, many many times the DM is not seated correctly. try it without the DM case on first
Thank you. I did try reseating without the case, but will look at the directions and try again. fyi - I am getting a green like on the DM when I plug in the power. Does that tell you anything?
Anyone got any ideas on this issue? Replaced the 4 caps and still getting the green blinking light (same pattern for about a minute). DM board displays a solid green light when unit is plugged in.
Any ideas? is there something I need to reset?
try reseating the DM board into its slider without the case first
If you've replaced the caps and after plugging the set back in the light blinks for more than about 8 seconds, the TV is still in it's failure mode.
It's always possible that whatever causes the caps to fail damaged another component in the circuit. The typical failure mode is for the caps to degrade and change value (visible by the doming of the cap, measurable by a DMM with capacitance measurement capability) - but being a poorly designed circuit it's always possible for another component to fail withing the same circuit.
Do a good visual inspection of the board, and ensure you installed the caps in the proper orientation and that the solder joints are solid - cold solder joints may look okay, but electrically they won't do the job. If the solder doesn't "wick" to the pad and post, it isn't a good connection.
sorry but your first line of your previous post is wrong.This (DM) digital module boots up to the microproessor IC and the normal boot time for this set is just over 60 secs.So let the set blink for around 2 minutes or so and if still blinking most likely there is still problems with the set.
Help. I'm already in trouble and I just started. I took the 8 screws holding the WS 48613 back cover off and the cover seems to be stuck in the center top area. I'm afraid to force it in case it might damage the mirror. Any ideas about what I'm missing?
Thanks,
[email protected]
Ran into the same thing and pounded my head for over 30 minutes thinking how it would come out. There's a bracket holding the mirror that you have to unscrew from the inside. The other brackets should hold the mirror but just take your time and be careful.
Blinks for about a minute then stops. Resetting does the same thing. Will check my connections but something else is probably wrong. Was hoping there was a way, or step by step guide to diagnose the problem throughout other areas of the device.
Thanks, tjfstrings. I actually found out by removing the front screen. Now that I got it all apart, I finally just pulled a little harder on the chassis and the whole thing slid out without the light box. It looks like the dm board can be removed without taking off all the other items. Oh well, they are all off now. Does anyone know if there is a parts list and documentation requested by DBell on 9/30/08? If so, I also would appreciate someone sending it to me at: [email protected]
Thanks again.
Sorry! My email is : [email protected]
Hi Larry,
Thanks for the valuable info on replacing the caps on the DM board. You are probably responsible for millions of dollars not going to Mitsubishi or repair centers.
I successfully replaced the 4 caps on my WS-48613, but that didn't stop the blinking green light. A little more digging uncovered a bad 4A fuse on the bottom of the DM board, and replacing that got the set to turn on again. However, I cannot get any input from any connections on the system except for the DTV antenna, but that scrolls and flickers badly. (Might be the antenna's fault). I hooked up a known good DVD player to Inputs 1,2 & 3 with S-Video and Composite Video cables, but saw nothing. Same thing when I tried using the component inputs. Any ideas? Thanks for the valuable info.
- Jay
[email protected]
Check the little white fuses on the bottom of the DM board. (F9B01 or something similar) There are 3 or 4 of them, but they are on the bottom side of the board, opposite of the caps you replaced. If you get any significant resistance on any of them, try soldering a jumper wire across the fuse and putting it back together. If the green light goes away after a minute or so, you know that fuse is the culprit. I would not recommend leaving the jumper in place in leiu of replacing the fuse though, it could cause other problems.
- Jay
if you have no inputs or If picture is dark or goes dark intermittently with lines and or fuzzy picture or if the screen turns blue and the set shuts off, check IC9C25. Could be bad, or bad connections It is on the signal board. Right behind the input or whatÂ’s called the terminal board. The IC is a BA09FP. This IC supplies 9 volts to the terminal board. Try resolding it first.
IC9C25 (9-volt regulator) part # 270P677030. BA09FP regulator from B&D Enterprises in Russell, Pa. http://www.bdent.com Thanks to our member NEXNUXS for sharing this info wih us.
Thanks again Larry. I'll look at that tonight.
Jay,
Couldn't get solder to stick on those fuses. Is that normal? Guess I must be doing something wrong.
I didn't have any problems, but an even quicker fix would be taking an alligator clip and clipping it on the fuse, touching both sides. If you do this, don't put the shield back on the dm board to test it.
JustJay.... tried that, no luck ;(.
Not sure if this this next bit will tell you anything, but the green light on the actual DM board is solid for about 30 seconds, then flashes about once per second, then shuts off after about another 30 seconds. The green light on the front of the TV just flashes the same pattern, twice a second for about a minute.
tjf
If the solder wont stick, your soldering iron is not hot enough or your not uing the right type of solder.
measure the DC voltage on those each end . see what you have.
2 of them I get about .032 and the other .022
Pages