Mitsubishi WS-55711 Blink Green LED

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photoman
Mitsubishi WS-55711 Blink Green LED

Last week, my 55711 died. The remote clicks the set on, then immediately off. When I unplug the set, and replug it back in, the LED just blinks then goes off. I read in the Forum that there is a potential fix. I would like the component list to replace & the schematic, or a suggestion of what else to do.

Thanks!

Craig 

Larry Dillon
I'm afraid the fix is ONLY

I'm afraid the fix is ONLY for sets where the green light keeps flashing. You problem is something different. After you turn on the set, and get the regular green blinky lights, hold down the Device and Menu buttons together for about 5 seconds.
The Power light will start to flash in a two digit sequence. Let me know what the blink code is.

photoman
Hi Larry,

Hi Larry,

I got one blink, then two blinks.

Craig

Larry Dillon
MMM That's a tough one man.

MMM That's a tough one man. That is a code 12 which indicates no problem with the set. You will need to check all of the standby and switched power supply voltages with your set. Sorry I could not be more helpful

photoman
I'll check it again. Maybe it

I'll check it again. Maybe it was a 21 instead of a 12,

thanks,

Craig

Cannoli
Hey there, new guy here with

Hey there, new guy here with the same set and the same problem. I get one flash then two flashes when I hold the menu+device buttons. How do I check the standby and switched voltages?

This problem has been on and off ever since connecting our new DirecTV HD+DVR to the TV. I found that if I turn on the TV then turn on the DTV it would work fine, but the other way around would cause the TV to shut off and the timer light to flash. But now it won't turn on at all.

Cannoli
I kept the TV unplugged all

I kept the TV unplugged all night and tried it again this morning. Nothing. Just the flashing timer light for a minute or so and that's it. No noise, no power. Not sure what to do at this point.

Larry Dillon
You need to measure the

You need to measure the voltages with a meter. But I would replace the seven capacitors first inside the DM. If you have no solid state repair experience, this s not the do-it-yourself repair job for you. The best advice I can give would be to call out a pro to assist you in this repair. Good Luck

Cannoli
Thanks for the reply. I'm

Thanks for the reply. I'm comfortable with a soldering iron. What points do I measure the voltage? Are there instruction to get to the DM board?

Cannoli
Thank you, looking forward to

Thank you, looking forward to starting the work

photoman
Larry Dillon said:

Larry Dillon said:
MMM That's a tough one man. That is a code 12 which indicates no problem with the set. You will need to check all of the standby and switched power supply voltages with your set. Sorry I could not be more helpful

 

Hi Larry,

 

As it turns out, it was a bad conversion chip & a blown fuse. I paid $340 to have it fixed. So, at least you know.

 

Thanks for your help!

 

Craig 

Cannoli
photoman said:

photoman said:

Larry Dillon said: MMM That's a tough one man. That is a code 12 which indicates no problem with the set. You will need to check all of the standby and switched power supply voltages with your set. Sorry I could not be more helpful

Hi Larry,
As it turns out, it was a bad conversion chip & a blown fuse. I paid $340 to have it fixed. So, at least you know.
Thanks for your help!
Craig 

 

Do you happen to know where the exact part that was replaced was located?  I'm gonna have my set opened to replace some caps and will look at that too.

Cannoli
ok, pulled the DM mod and the

ok, pulled the DM mod and the caps "look" ok. Fuses are good as well. When the new caps get here tomorrow I'll replace them and go from there...

Cannoli
Quick question... messing

Quick question... messing with this DM mod I found that one of the diodes doesn't show continuity while all the others do. It's diode D9B01. Any ideas?

Cannoli
I checked every fuse in the

I checked every fuse in the set, about 10 or so I think and all are good. I'm going to put the DM back in the set and power it up without any devices connected. Be right back

Larry Dillon
I will have to look when I

I will have to look when I get home and look at the schematic

Larry Dillon
Unfortanatly, Mitsubishi does

Unfortanatly, Mitsubishi does not provide any service info for the DM module. I do not know what type or kind of diode you are talking about.

Larry Dillon
Did you replace the caps yet,

Did you replace the caps yet, If not, replace them.

Cannoli
Larry Dillon said:

Larry Dillon said:
Did you replace the caps yet, If not, replace them.

Not yet, they come today.  Wouldn't I expect to see a blown fuse if anothr part of the curcuit went bad?

 

Just the fact that the caps "look" fine is making me think it's more then just the DM caps. 

Larry Dillon
I cannot count how many times

I cannot count how many times I have had bad capacitors in this model of TV set and the capacitors looked fine.

Cannoli
just changed all 7 caps and

just changed all 7 caps and still have the same problem. just the initial blinking then nothing. No power, no noises... nothing. Still get error code 12... :(

Larry Dillon
So the continuos blinking

So the continuos blinking stops? I thought it used to blink all the time? Check the small fuses on the board in the power supply marked on the board as F9A04 and F9A05. Let me know if any of these are open and do not show continuity please.

Cannoli
Larry Dillon said:

Larry Dillon said:
So the continuos blinking stops? I thought it used to blink all the time? Check the small fuses on the board in the power supply marked on the board as F9A04 and F9A05. Let me know if any of these are open and do not show continuity please.

I never had continuous blinking.  Just the initial blinking when
plugging the set in the no power when pressing the power button.

 

I checked all the fuses in the set, approximately 10 of them.  All
tested good including the ones you listed. 

 

 

Larry Dillon
Now check all of the standby

Now check all of the standby as well as all of the switched voltages as desribed in the block diagrams of the power supplies.

Cannoli
Just had the tech come out

Just had the tech come out and guess what it was... Go ahead guess... Ok, ok I'll tell you. It was three bad buttons on the front control panel. The channel up and down and the volume up buttons. They were shorting and the TV thought they were being pressed and wouldn't turn on.

Short fix was to simply disconnect the panel wire harness from the TV. Long term fix is to replace the bad buttons. That I will do in time, right now I'm going to watch all the shows that were recorded on my DVR while the TV was down!

Cannoli
no doubt! I was in awe that

no doubt! I was in awe that he found that so quickly. He said he's seen it before and when I told him I almost NEVER used the buttons, he said that was the problem. It must have developed some sort of corrosion that conducted electricity causing the short. Crazy for sure.

Larry Dillon
Is there a possibility that

Is there a possibility that someone could have sprayed the buttons by accident when they were cleaning the set? With a cleaning spray. That is a big time falure cause as well.

Cannoli
possibility, but unlikely.

possibility, but unlikely. My wife knows to leave the TV cleaning to me and I'm very careful when I clean the front. Only mild soap and warm water on a paper towel and a microfiber cloth to dry.

Now there may have been an occasin where our little one mucked up the front with his peanut butter hands and my wife cleaned it without me knowing... but those would be few and far between... at least I hope ;)

Larry Dillon
There you go my friend, can

There you go my friend, can cause many problems from this.

Batman697
Larry,

Larry,

I too have the "green blinking light of Doom". Can you please send me the fix instructions.

My email is [email protected].

Bruce McLean
My Mitsu 55711 had a blinking

My Mitsu 55711 had a blinking code "12". Called my local Mitsu repair guy (who told me how to pull the chassis and he replaced the convergence IC's, I put it back together). He thought about it for a while and told me to pull the speaker covers/front panel and disconnect the front control buttons by pulling the connector behind that control panel apart. Then use only the remote as we had bypassed the buttons on the front. Voila', it works. He told me the buttons get stuck and the TV is confused by having too many tasks. No more green on light, but at least it works.

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