Mitsubishi "Blinking Green Light" Repair Procedure

This Article is written to provide assistance and step-by-step guidance in resolving the Mitsubishi "Blinking Green Light" issue. This failure is often referred to as the "Blinking Green Light of Death" or BLOG. A large amount of information is included in this Article, all of which will help you to both understand and repair the 'Blinking Green Light' problem.

Written specifically for the Mitsubishi 65" WS-65813, this article ALSO applies to other Mitsubishi models with the same 'blinking green light' issue.

The Mitsubishi 'Blinking Green Light' failure is common with many Mitsubishi models including the WS-65813, WS-48513, WS-48613, WS-55513, WS-55613, WS-55813, WS-65513, WS-65613, WS-65713, WS-73513, WS-73713 and others. This detailed repair procedure will assist, even the NOVICE, in the required repair process. Links are provided for downloading Mitsubishi Service Manuals and for recommended parts ordering. Circuitboard photos are also shown which provide a visual reference during the repair process.

I hope that this Article helps you to resolve your Mitsubishi "Blinking Green Light" issue.


When I encountered the 'blinking green light' issue with my Mitsubishi 65" WS-65813, I called Mitsubishi's Customer Service Department. Following repeated promises to correct the issue, it soon became evident that they were both "dragging" their feet and not at all anxious to admit liability for this failure or to provide a timely repair of the television. After several phone calls to Customer Service, I sent a detailed letter to Mitsubishi Customer Service with a copy to Mitsubishi's President & CEO outlining my concerns and asking for a "good will" repair of my 65" Mitsubishi. After waiting about three weeks for Mitsubishi to assign one of their Authorized Repair Dealers to repair the unit, I repaired the television myself.

Mitsubishi Customer Service did not follow up on the issue and I never received a acknowledgement letter from Mitsubishi's President and CEO.

Repairing It Yourself

If you decide to repair the TV yourself, I recommend that you obtain a copy of the repair manual for your Mitsubishi TV from the Techlore website by going to Mitsubishi Service Manual. It will provide some direction, however it is technically written and may be difficult for the NOVICE to understand. If you are unable to locate the the service manual for your specific Model at the above Techlore link, you may need to purchase the service manual online at

If you decide to have a service technician do the repair, insist that the "DM" module is removed from the TV and ONLY the four 1000uF, 16V Capacitors (Caps) located on the DM Module are replaced. MOST techincians will INSIST on replacing the entire DM Module and not simply the capacitors. The cost is about $200 for a technician to replace the capacitors and $1000 for replacement of the DM Module. As you will read below, doing the repair yourself will cost less than $4.00 for the 4 Caps.


I repaired my Mitsubishi WS-65813 by replacing the four (4) DM Module 1000uF, 16V, 85C Capacitors. The basic tools and materials required were: Four (4) capacitors, soldering iron, rosin solder, wire cutters, phillips & flat-head screw drivers and pliers.

Repair estimates, from a local authorized Mitsubishi Repair Center, was between $800 - $1000 to replace the DM Module. My total out-of-pocket cost for replacing the four (4) capacitors was $3.50.

Replacement Parts:

Replace the original four (4) 1000µF, 16V, 85ºC capacitors on the DM Module with Radial Polarized, 1000µF, 35V, 105ºC Capacitors.

Description: Computer Grade Electrolytic Capacitors or High Temp Electrolytic Capacitors; Capacitance = 1000µF; Voltage = 35 V; Operating Temperature Range = - 20º C to + 105º C; Termination Style = Radial, Operating Hours = 10,000 Life Hours. The original DM capacitors are rated at 1000µF, 16V, 85ºC. Do not use capacitors with this rating to repair your Mitsubishi television, or else the same issue will reappear in 1-2 years.

The capacitors are available from several on-line electronics stores and possibly from a local television repair shop. I recommend that you use ONLY high temp Capacitors rated at 105º C, with a voltage rating of 35 V. Refer to the "General Information" section below for additional information about purchasing the capacitors from a online website.

If you decide to take on the repair project yourself, pay CLOSE attention to my "Lesson Learned" note; a copy of which is provided below. This was posted to TechLore on October 4th, 2007. See comments below.

Copied from a previous Techlore posting. Quite important:

October 4, 2007 3:30 PM

Lesson Learned: Larry, For your information and others, after replacing the 4 capacitors on the DM Module, I slid the DM circuit board back into the metal DM case and then inserted the entire unit into the main circuit board. This was working in the "blind" as it was impossible to verify a proper seat of the DM circuit board onto the mother board. The blinking green light was still present upon power-up of the TV. I again removed the DM module from the TV and this time I re-installed the DM circuit board onto the main mother board and THEN installed the DM metal case over the top of the circuit board. By doing this, I was able to ensure a proper connection of the DM board. Upon power-up the TV is UP and RUNNING.

A Few "Cautions"

  1. Keep yourself "grounded" when working with the circuit board. Static electricity will destroy electronic components.
  2. When replacing the Capacitors, press them "down" onto the circuit board as far as they will go, hold them down, solder into place and clip the excess terminal lengths flush with solder. Only by doing this will the metal shield (little silver box) slide down and over the circuit board during re-assembly. There is not a lot of clearance when doing this, as the 105C Capacitors are slightly longer that the originals. With minimal effort everything does fit back together.
  3. Use ONLY 105º C capacitors with a voltage rating of 35 V.
  4. Re-insert the DM circuit board into the Mother board; press virmly and ensure a proper seat of the DM board. Next, slide the metal case down and over the DM circuit board. Refer to my "Lesson Learned."

General Overview of Mitsubshi Power-up Cycle

Normal Power-up Sequence: During TV power-up, the green light blinks until the Digital Modulator (DM) has booted up and is in sync with the microprocessor. Once the two are in sync, the television will "turn on". A failure in this boot up process is indicated by the "blinking green light" continuing to flash and the television's failure to "turn on".

Problem: Continuous "blinking green light". Mitsubishi television will not "turn on"; no video and/or audio; no audible noise or sound from the TV. Blinking green light will extinguish ONLY by unplugging the Mitsubishi from its power source.

Basic Troubleshooting

  1. Press the "reset" button and hold for 10 seconds .... Does TV turn on and blinking green light turn to solid green.
  2. Unplug the TV from it's power source for various times, ranging between 5 minutes and 24 hours..... Does blinking green light continue upon plugging in the TV.
  3. Disconnect ALL devices from the TV; DVD, Tuner, Cable Box, unplug the TV for various duration times .... Does blinking green light continues upon plugging in the TV.
  4. Press Power and Menu buttons simultaneously and hold depressed for 20 seconds .... Does blinking green light continue to flash.
  5. Press Power and Display buttons simultaneously and hold depressed for 20 seconds .... Does blinking green light continue to flash.
  6. Insure that no front panel buttons are inadvertently stuck in an "engaged" position.

Diagnosis: If none of the above test resolve the issue, then the failure lies in one of the following:

  1. DM Module Capacitors have FAILED.
  2. DM Module is defective.
  3. EEPROM Board failure
  4. Power Supply failure.

Perform a Mitsubishi "error code" diagnostic check to assist in determining where the problem lies. Refer to your Owner's Manual for specific procedures on running this check. You may also read Mitsubishi Television Error Code Diagnostic Procedure which is posted on Techlore's website.


General Information

For this repair you will need a Phillips screwdriver, a 15 or 25 watt soldering iron, a desoldering tool (recommended), and four electrolytic capacitors. For the optional fan replacement you need a PC cooling fan, zip ties, foam tape (or weather stripping) and a 12v AC to DC power adapter. Note: The cooling fan is not required provided you replace the capacitors with Caps having a 105c high temp rating.

I recommend replacing the original (bad) 1000µF, 16V, 85ºC capacitors with Panasonic 10,000 hour, Radial Polarized, 1000µF, 35V, 105ºC high temp capacitors. The Panasonic Part Number is EEU-EB1V102. The capacitors may be purchased from a local electronics repair shop or online at The Digi-Key Part Number is P13126-ND.

If you require a soldering iron, I recommend Radio Shack's 15 Watt Soldering Iron, Part # 64-2051 or the 25 Watt Soldering Iron, Part # 64-2070. Radio Shack also has a desoldering tool, Part# 64-2060, which you may find helpful in removing old solder from the connections, without damaging the board. A basic 11 piece Electronic Tool Kit, Part # 64-2803A may also be of value. The cost for each of these tools is between $10 and $20. Similiar tools are also available from Lowe's, Home Depot or Wallmart.

This is a fairly simple repair for those with a little soldering experience.

Start by unplugging the TV. Disconnect the coax and digital audio cables and remove the rear panel.

Remove the plastic panel mounting screws and set the panel aside.

If you are going to install a fan, position it on the right side of the shield (as seen from the rear) and mark its outline with a pencil. It is easiest to install the fan with the shield removed from the TV, but by marking its mounting position first, you will avoid placing the fan on a part of the shield that has an obstruction. The DM guide partly covers the capacitors that need cooling and the metal tray under the CRTs also restricts fan placement.

Remove the four (4) screws that secure the DM Module. For the left side screw, it may be easier to pull out and set aside the PWB-DEMOD board. It is a small vertical card just to the left of the DM and has a broad copper grounding spring. This will simplify access to the left side DM shield mounting screws. See the pictures below:

Left side of DM Module

Front side of DM Module

Right side of DM Module

Unplug the USB and Firewire cables from the top of the DM, as well as the cable that runs from the front input jacks to the connector on top of the terminal board. Unscrew the grounding strap from the top of the doubler shield.

Remove the 2 screws in the plastic bracket that holds the DMÃ Module in place. After removing both screws, pry the plastic piece away from the support piece to which it is mounted.

The DM Module and the shield are removed vertically. In order for there to be enough clearance, the chassis needs to be pulled toward the rear of the TV. All the electronics are mounted on a tray that can slide back like a drawer to make servicing easier.

Remove the board slide, which is a narrow fiber board that stretches the width of the TV above the rear of the chassis and shields the light box from scattered light. It is held in place by a long black screw on either side of the TV. Use caution as the board may fall when the screws are removed.

Undo the wire ties on the cables going to the front of the TV. You will need slack in these wires as you slide the chassis out. You will also need to unplug some of the connectors on the shorter wires. Remove the screw (a) on the edge of the chassis and screws (b) on the xx813. See diagram below:

Release the chassis lock tab on either side of the chassis. The tray may be a bit hard to slide, so alternately tug on the left and right edges to rock the tray rearward. Go slowly in case you've missed freeing a wire bundle. Pay attention to the large red anode wires and other cables on the right hand side as they are clipped to the frame of the TV. Pull the chassis back until the DM shield will clear any obstructions above.

Remove the screws holding the DM shield. (Note: Do not use a power screwdriver on these screws as it is very easy to strip the threads.) There are two on top of the shield, two in the rear base, and one in the middle of the base on either side of the shield. The DM shield can be snug and hard to pull up. Gently rock the shield front and back while applying upward force. You may want to hold down the board below (DTV-TUNER) to avoid disturbing the ribbon connectors to the signal board. The DM itself also comes out straight up, but it is not nearly as tight.

Remove the DM Module by pulling it straight up (toward the top of the television). DO NOT pull it at an angle. The DM Module is connected to the circuit board by 4 sets of pins.

Once the pins are free from the onboard connectors, continue pulling straight up. There is a plastic guide that makes it necessary to pull the DM Module straight up and sliding it over the plastic guide.

With the DM Module removed and positioned, as shown in the photo below, remove the 2 screws located next to the USB and IEEE-1394 jacks and slide the DM circuitboard out of the metal case.

The next and most important task will be to carefully remove and replace the 1000µF, 16V, 85ºC capacitors with 1000µF, 35V, 105ºC capacitors.

CAUTION: Handle the DM circuitboard by the edges to avoid static damage. If you hold the DM with the components facing you and the external connectors on the left, you can find the capacitors in question in a cluster on the top right corner of the board.

Here is what a typical capacitor failure looks like:

The top of the capacitors shown above may only have a slight bulge, but they have indeed failed.

Desolder and replace all of the capacitors at the same time. When inserting the new capacitors, pay close attention to the polarity. The rear of the board has the positive terminal labeled and the longest lead is positive. The capacitor body has the negative terminal marked by dashes running down one side. All the capacitors have the same orientation:

Insert all four capacitors as close to the board as possible. The Panasonic capacitors are 4mm higher than the stock capacitors and there is very little extra room inside the shield. If properly installed, the DM Module case will fit over the DM board during re-assembly.

The picture below shows the underside of the DM board after the capacitors have been removed.

With the BAD capacitors removed, thread the new capacitor leads through the holes in the DM board. Ensure that you have the positive and negative leads on the capacitors threaded through the proper hole. With the capacitors in place, maintain pressure to firmly seat the capacitors against the circuit board and carefully solder each connection. It will help considerably if someone provides assistance during this very important soldering step.

Replace the original 1000uF, 16V, 85C capacitors with Radial Polarized 1000uF, 35V, 105C Capacitors.

If you are going to install a cooling fan, do so now. Once again, if you have used capacitors with a 105ºC temp rating, the cooling fan is not required or recommended. If installing the fan, stick some foam tape or adhesive weather stripping to each corner of the fan. This will minimize fan vibration noise and provide the fan with some clearance from the shield. The shield has a thin ridge that runs diagonally and prevents the fan from sitting flush, but the foam tape will allow the fan to straddle the ridge.

Place the fan on the pencil lines you drew earlier and secure two diagonal corners of the fan with small zip ties through holes in the shield. The zip ties are flat and their low profile will allow the shield to slide over the DM board without getting caught. You can run your fan from a 6v power supply to minimize noise, but test it first since not all PC fans will spin up with just 6v.

For individuals with the Mitsubishi WS-55859, WS-55909, WS-65869, WS-65909, WS-73909 or other Mitsubishi models with seven (7) of the 1000uF, 16V Capacitors on the DM Module instead of four (4), the two photos below may provide a visual orientation when looking at the DM Module circuit board. In this case replace all seven of the original capacitors with those having a rating of 1000uF, 35V, 105C.



Installation is the reverse of removal. The DM will slide down onto the four connectors at its base and there is a plastic vertical guide to ensure proper alignment of the board. Be careful not to bend the copper grounding springs that touch the connector end (rear) of the DM as it slides back into place. Carefully slide the DM shield back over the DM board and be careful not to snag the taller capacitors. Install the 6 screws that secure the DM in place. (Note that the two screws on the top of the DM shield are different from the other four). Plug the PWB-DEMOD card back in and ensure that its copper ground spring is touching the left edge of the DM shield.

Slowly slide the chassis back into the TV and be careful not to pinch any wires running to the front of the TV. The chassis should click as the release tabs lock into place. Secure the chassis with the long black screws. Reconnect all the wires you had removed and secure the excess slack back into the wire ties. Plug the USB and Firewire connectors back on the top of the DM and plug the cable from the front inputs back onto the top of the terminal board. Screw the grounding strap to the top of the doubler shield. Do not over tighten it as it is easy to break the threaded mounting plate on the shield. Install the DM rear cover and screws. Reconnect the coax antenna and digital audio cable back into the DM (if applicable).

Lastly, put the board slide back and remember that it could fall unless properly screwed in place. Double check all the connectors on the boards to be sure you haven't missed reconnecting anything. Install the rear cover of the TV and route the optional fan's power cable over the top of the rear cover to avoid pinching the cable.

Plug the TV back in and the front light should blink for about a minute as the DM boots. When the light has turned off, power up the TV and verify operation. If all goes well, your TV should boot in about one minute and there should be no more interference in the picture or OSD.

WS-65813 Advanced Troubleshooting

For those more technically inclined than most, you may enjoy the following. For the rest of you, IGNORE these checks.

  3. SHORT DETECT SHUTDOWN (PIN 13 OF IC700) CHECK FOR SHORTED D913 PART # 264P722010 AND OPEN Z901 PART # 283P039020 (Z905 AND Z900 M.

Also, if the 24 volt B+ and or B- is missing from the convergence ICs, change both convergence ICs as well as the defective pico fuse in the power supply. This is most likely not a quicky type of repair. These are a few of my notes on this set from me and a few of my buds in the buisness. Good Luck and let us know how you made out with this set.

A Word of Caution

To all of you who may be attempting the capacitor fix on their Mitsubishi a word of caution. Modern circuit boards are easily damaged by static electricity. Tech's in the industry use grounding wrist straps when handling these boards. Simply walking across a room with the circuit board in your hand could damage it. Try to ground yourself to the metal chassis of the tv when touching circuits. Even though the TV is not plugged in it will equalize your electrical potential. Handle the circuit board carefully by the edges when taking it to your workbench. Try to ground yourself while soldering on the board. I bring this up after reading some posts that stated after changing out the caps they ended up with new or different problems. That's why you see new circuit boards shipped in the anti static special plastic bags.

This DM board communicates with the sets internal microprocessor. That's why if the set is working properly, and you first plug the set in, the light blinks and then stops blinking. When it stops blinking, that means the DM has booted up and is all in sync with the microprocessor and ready to go. If the set does not stop blinking, that is an indication that the DM has not booted up and communicated with the microprocessor. This is the basic explanation, as there is a lot more to it than this:

  1. Could be poor solder connections, the power coming to the DM board from the main power supply could be bad.
  2. The EEPROM could be bad
  3. The power supply or sweep power supply could have bad connections or swollen capacitors.

The first thing to do is check all of the plugs, connectors, and connections to and around the DM board. Next would be to check for other large capacitors on other boards with swollen tops. The next thing would be to start checking power supply upon switch on. But, first do the diagnostic test as explained in the service manual. Maybe it will point you in the right direction.

If you have taken the time to follow these advance trouble shooting instructions and the Blinking Green Light continues to be a issue, a service tech may be required to complete the repair.

I hope that this Article has provided guidance and assisted in the repair of your Mitsubishi's "Blinking Green Light" issue.



Mitsubishi Service Manual: Mitsubishi Service Manual

If you require additional assistance or advice, feel free to send me a private message.

Contact information for Mitsubishi Customer Service:

9351 Jeronimo Rd.
Irvine, CA 92618
Mitsubishi Consumer Relations
Fax: 949.609.4900

President & CEO (July 2008)
President & CEO
Ikuo Morisada
Mitsubishi Electronics
9351 Jeronimo Rd.
Irvine, CA 92618




Thanks for your advice, I will look into the coolant leak. I ran the LED check again and it's still code 21. I was looking at the convergence setup and it will not converge the blue, but allows me to adjust the red. What to you make of that?


It appears more likely that you have a Convergence issue rather than a X-Ray Protect fault.

Here are common symptoms of a Convergence Issue.

* Screen looks 3D
* Colors don't line up
* One or more colors can't be adjusted when using the convergence menu.
* Screen is bowed or warped.

Here is a quick test....

Using your "Mitsubishi Remote Control", go to the Convergence Menu; generally located at: TV/Menu - Settings - Advanced - Convergence.

Attempt to adjust both the RED and BLUE Convergence.

You should be able to move RED and BLUE in all directions - up, down, left, and right.

If you can't move them in all directions the Convergence Chips are bad and must be replaced.

Note: If your set has as flash focus or magic focus button only try pressing the button. If it fails to correct the Convergence issue, you will need to replace the Convergence Chips.

If you decide to replace the IC's:

When replacing the Convergence Chips, also replace the two Pico Fuses, F9A04 and F9A05. Sometimes Convergence Resistors also require replacement.

Replacing the Chips is a straight forward procedure, so do not be reluctant to take on the repair task.

You can order the IC's and Pico Fuses individually over the internet or you may prefer to order the Convergence repair kit from

The repair kit cost more than simply purchasing the individual components, however, you may find that it's money well spent. The Kit includes a step by step instruction guide, original OEM STK chips, convergence resistors, pico fuses, thermal paste, email/phone support, etc.


Thank you for your help. I will attempt the kit and hopefully fix the problem.


Good luck with the repair. Once your Mitsubishi is up-and-running, pass along lessons learned for the benefit of those with similar issues.


hi speed,
now I have another problem with my other tv. sony wega kdf342a10, I changed the lamp, after that when I turned the tv on, the power clicked off and standby red light started to blink. It blinks 3times pauses for 1-2 seconds and flashes 3 times again, its doing it constantly, is there a reset button somewhere that needs to be rest after changing the lamp.
I would greatly appreciate your help on this matter.
I am preparing my self to start working on my mitsubishi tv.

thank you.


This issue should be posted at the appropriate Techlore location for discussion of Sony issues. That being said, here are my comments:

Sony Wega TV Reset: Hold down the RESET button on the remote control and press the POWER button on the TV front panel. The TV will turn itself On, then back Off again. Release the RESET button and verify proper operation of TV. I doubt that the Reset will be of any value with your issue.

The 3 blink Error Code you refer to normally indicates that either the Lamp Door is not detected as closed or that the Lamp is not detected as fully inserted. If the lamp door is warped, it may not properly engage the sensing switch.

Verify proper operation of the Lamp Door Safety Switch and ensure that the Lamp is fully inserted. Check the "Lamp Ballast Fan" for proper operation. Several other possibilities exist, such as the Temp Sensor detecting a overheat condition, DMD Board issue, excessive Dust accumulation around the cooling fans, G-board issue and other lesser possibilities.




Thank you for your help with the convergence issue on my Mitsubishi WS65611. I used the kit recomended from . That was a wise choice for a first time repair, such as my repair. Everything needed was included, along with any other support one might need. For now the TV is up and running great! Some advice to others would be to read the instructions carefully and take your time. It was easier for me to remove the convergence board from the TV first to work on it at my workbench. That was tedious work, but worth it. Use caution when removing the board jumpers, and take your time. Thanks again.



Great to hear that the Convergence repair went well. We all appreciate your taking the time to pass along "lessons learned" from the project.


I'm having a problem with my WS65908 that I've been researching. If anyone can help, I'd really appreciate it!

While watching a moving, the TV blacked out, but the green light on the power button remained on. I had the sound going through the stereo, so the TV was muted. I pulled the plug on the TV and plugged it in a few minutes later. The screen came up, but only in the center and all distorted. I unplugged it again and gave it a few minutes. Plugged it in and the green light would blink exactly 3 times. The power button wouldn't do anything. I left it off for 24 hours, but had the same result.

After searching the issue a lot yesterday, I looked for the error code. 12 - no error. Someone suggested using the power button on the remote. The button on the TV did not do anything. I tried the power button on the remote and the TV turned on! After 20 minutes or so, it turned off. The TV power button still didn't do anything. Using the remote, I could turn the TV back on. It would last anywhere from a few seconds to a few minutes, but always turned itself off. Checked the error code again - 21 - x-ray. By the way, when I turn the TV on, it's perfect - until it goes off again. The power button on the TV still isn't doing anything.

Background - I have had the TV for 9 years. It hasn't been touched or ever been moved in 9 years. It's in a surge suppressor.

From reading everything, I don't know if I have a convergence problem or some other power problem. I don't have a service manual, just the user manual. When I look in the TV, I only see one fuse and it's good. I used to work on F-4's in the Air Force, so I'm happy to do my own repair.

Again, any advice would be very appreciated!


dear speed thank you for your help with my mitsubishi tv. A friend with experience helped me change the fuses and the IC's. now tv is working fine.
on my sony I replaced the lamp fixture, tv is working fine. but now I have a new issue with my surround sound system, i have a harmon karden AV120 model.
the center channel NOT the speaker, is acting up. it sometimes works and most of the times doesn't work. i would appreciate your help.


It's good that the Techlore Forum was able to assist you with your two TV issues and that both televisions are now up-and-working. Take a moment to pass along any lessons learned from the repairs, for the benefit of others.

Regarding the Harmon Karden AV120 "center speaker" problem, you should post this issue on the appropriate Techlore form; possibly at the Home Theater Accessories forum.


I need your help!!!!

I bought a Mitsubishi (Model # WD-60C9) last yr, warrenty ran out last month(go figure). Just 3 days ago my green light started blinking, tv shuts down and now, wont turn back on. I tried hitting the power for 10 seconds and powered it back up, didnt work. I also unpluged the Tv for 10-20 seconds, didnt work. I called Consumer Relations they sent me a e-mail to upgrade my Tv, didnt work. Does anyone have any other suggestions for me to try?

Looks like my TV is ok now. I had a coolant leak. I could see that the board was a big corroded in the back. I disconnected the wires (took pictures) and pulled the bottom tray of boards out. I left the big red wires on the right and turned the tray sideways. I wiped up what coolant I could and then started cleaning the components with an old tooth brush. Some of the coolant that was under resistors called for q-tips. The TV would only run for 20 to 25 minutes before shutting down before. As of now, it's been on for 2 hours.

Last step - I suspended an aluminum foil gutter under the big red wires. That will catch any future coolant leaks.

Hope this info helps someone.

I have a WS-65869 with the blinking light problem. Do you have the repair procedure and manual for my model?

i have a mit. wd62725 with the green blinking light issue. i have changed the 4 caps on the fmt and dm boards but the the problem still exists. Can anyone help please? I also tried troubleshooting by removing the fc plug on the fmt board and plugged the tv in. After 60 sec. the blinking stops then i plugged in the fc plug and pressed the power button. The green light stopped blinking and was a solid constant green but seems like the tv did not turn on. There was no picture whatsoever. All your help will be appreciated. Thank you.

my model is ws-65869,how do i oder the capacitors for my tv


Are you able to perform a "error code" check; if so, what are the results. Does the TV still refuse to turn on and what light indications do you have.


The service manual for the WS-65869 may be downloaded from:

Regarding the repair:
1. Follow the procedures discussed at the beginning of this posting
2. Visit and order the "Blinking Light Repair Kit" for the WS-65869. The kit comes with the Sanyo high temperature/ high frequency/long life 105 Celsius type capacitors (not those cheap Radio Shack caps), full easy to follow pictorial directions, and free live on-Line tech assistance in case you run into a problem, all kits are generally shipped out within 24 hours.

For simplicity, I recommend the Kit.

Good Luck with the repair.


You can get caps for just a few bucks from Digikey, part # P13119-ND

Should you decide not to order the Kit, then, as recommended above, order the capacitors from Digikey at: Purchase ONLY Panasonic Capacitors for DM to fix Blinking Green Light issue.
The CORRECT CAPS are: Panasonic 1000uf, 25V/35V, 105C high temp, electrolytic, radial capacitors.
- 35V Caps: Digi-Key Item Number: P13126-ND ... Use for DM with 4 capacitors - Slightly larger than 25V caps. Plenty of room on DM using 4 caps.
- 25V Caps: Digi-Key Item Number: P13121-ND ... Use for DM with 7 capacitors - Smaller in size and therefore will fit on circuit board better than 35V caps.

Note: I do not recommend use of 16V capacitors, digikey part # P13119-ND, referenced in previous comment. Doing so may result in another BGLOD issue within a few years. Capacitor life is based primarily upon operating temperature, ripple current and applied voltage; the higher the values, the shorter the capacitor life. There are no negatives to using a higher voltage rated capacitor (up to about 3 times the design specifications) in place of the circuit design capacitor. Cheap insurance!


Most of the stock ones make it more than two years, don't they? The set I just replaced them in got 9 years on the stock caps.

An interesting read on the DM / cap problem is here:

A quick snip from that thread "What is required is a high endurance cap with a low ESR rating. You do not need to raise the voltage rating on the cap because they never see more than 6 volts. Actually, that's another problem."

The original caps are 10mm in diameter. Most 25v and higher caps are 12mm or more in diamter and would be crowded right up next to each other on these boards.

Everyone agrees heat is part of the problem so is it really a good idea to use oversized parts that are crowded up next to each other and thus impeding what little air flow there is?

I did a TON of research when I ran across a set with this problem and in the end I found many posts where users were using the 16v high endurance replacements and I found no posts back that they had failed. Looking at the board and how crowded it would be with oversized parts and remembering heat is part of the problem I couldn't see any reason to use them, I just went with 16v high endurance parts that have the stock diameter. They fit right in, they are just a tad taller but they still allow the cover to be placed on the unit.

I wrote the date of the repair on the unit so we'll see how long it goes. If it was a mistake it's an easily fixed one so I'm not losing any sleep over it.

Hey I have a wd-62527 that has this issue. I see a few people come on here with the same model if you have helped any of them with success it would be nice if you could shed a ray of hope on my side because I want this TV out of my back room and on the stand where it belongs. I have it all taken apart just dont know what capacitors to remove and put in.

i have a ws-65909 and while watching the tv it shut off and wouldnt turn back on...i got on the net and seen all the blinking light info and started reading and talked to a tech online and he helped me trouble shoot my problem...he had me test the pico fuses f9a04 and f9a05 and found they were he told me to order the two fuses and the stk393-110 so i did and replaced the three items turned the tv on and it worked for about two hours and shut back off and i am getting the same blinking light code as the first time...2 blinks followed by a pause repeted 10 times...any help on this matter would be greatly appreciated...

Did you buy the STKs from a reputable source or did you buy them on eBay or somewhere similar?

The market is FLOODED with cheap Chinese knock offs of these chips and if they work at all they usually wont keep working for long.  This sounds like a classic case of cheap chip syndrome.

I personally like Acme in Orlando Florida for these chips (I have no stake in them, just a satisfied customer - not a dud chip yet! 8-> )

Here's a link to a list compiled by a professional TV tech:

Did you apply heat sink grease to them?

Hope that helps . . .


riv-C1-4D - do you have the DM module pulled out? If so can you remove the lid and take a picture of the circuit board? I'd like to see if it's similar to ones I've worked on, if it is I can probably point out the caps to change out.

Thaks a lot!

I just did the same procedure to replace the 7 Capacitors of my grandfather's Mitubish that also suffered the blinking green light and it works!

Thanks for sharing the "fix"!  It was really helpful!


Glad that the Techlore Forum could help with resolving your Grandfather's Mitsubishi BGLOD issue.


I have a WD-60C9 and when i go to turn the tv on the statues light flashes green it powers on for a few seconds then turns off what do you suggest please.

Hi I own a ws65813 and am encountering a picture distorting problem . I plug my tv in an the green light blinks for a little bit then goes off indicating that it booted up properly but when I go to turn it on the picture comes in but then after 3or4 seconds the picture distorts and the audio makes a low whine what is your solution to my problem ? Please help

I have a WD-62525 and got the blinking green light after I was cutting the house circuit breaker to work on other parts of my house. I ordered the kit from, replaced the capacitors on the DM and FMT boards with no change. Is there a suggested next place that I should look? Thanks in advance for the help.


just replaced the 7 caps from the kit and theWS_55711 set came back to life ,i appreciate the site and all the people who take time to help people like me
as i used to do a lot of soldering in the past ,it came back to me ,i bought the small soldering iron from you ,i used a great lite and marked everything first ,i made a jig for the circuit board so it would stay put on my bench and did the job when i was rested and had plenty of time
took me 2hrs and i didnt rush

Hi Larry I got the blinking light deal goin and was wondering if u could send me a fix for a 62 inch Mitsubishi wd 62528 I hope its the caps ...... thank you for any of your help Kegan

Repaired Mitsubishi WS-55511 (blinking light) Opened up back of TV, DM case on the left, undid a couple wooden braces to release case, twisted it out carefully with wires still connected, placed on tackle box, got into metal DM module case, unscrewed power board (4 phillip head screws), removed three wire connections

, desoldered 7 capacitors with a desoldering braid (radio shack), if you do it heat the braid and when it gets hot enough the solder will flow into the braid. I had to use the thicker part of the iron to get it hot enough.  (the capacitors were not puffed out on the top at all), you can see the blue capacitors.

replaced with part number P13126-ND from digi-key (cap alum 1000uf 35v 105deg rated)

Pay attention to the negative and positive sides of the (old) capacitors and how they relate in position to the board so when you put the new ones in they are in right. In the picture you can see the negative side of the capacitor has the blue strip and the board has a white half circle to denote the negative side.

cost me 13.42 for 10 of them ($1.04 a piece), shipping included. 

put it back together, plugged in tv, blinked for 30 seconds then stopped blinking, hit power button, worked like a charm, been about a month now, no problems.


Just a side note the new capacitors are alot bigger than the old ones so they fit very snug together, i pushed them all the way onto the board then bent the posts to keep it tight, soldered making sure solder flows into hole and solder looked shinny silver when done, also used 60/40 rosin core solder with a regular old pencil type weller iron. then i snipped the excess length off the posts and put the tv back together.


used some info from this page also:

The cover has no problems fitting on with the additional length of the new capacitors.

Also here is a picture of them:


Again notice the silver strip with the negative markings on the right side of the capacitor.

Hello, I have a Mitsubishi WD-57732 that all of a sudden has the blinking green light problem after cleaning the mirror. I have taken apart the the set and have inspected the the power board and Dm board. I can't seam to find any faulty capicitors on those boards. When I run the error code check it gives me code 59. Code 59 according to the service manual is a DM short, and I can't find any reference to troubleshooting this. Does anyone know what would cause this? the problem only started after removing the front screen to clean the mirror. Thanks and any help is appreciated.

Drob5286 said: Hello, I have a Mitsubishi WD-57732 that all of a sudden has the blinking green light problem after cleaning the mirror. I have taken apart the the set and have inspected the the power board and Dm board. I can't seam to find any faulty capicitors on those boards. When I run the error code check it gives me code 59. Code 59 according to the service manual is a DM short, and I can't find any reference to troubleshooting this. Does anyone know what would cause this? the problem only started after removing the front screen to clean the mirror. Thanks and any help is appreciated.

If you got into the DM metal box the capacitors may look fine... mine did... since I already ordered the parts I replaced all 7 of them, it's been working every since.

Hey I would like to know if you got your TV working again becausae I have the excact same Tv and I'm expericing the same problem. If you could let me know how you fixed your Tv I would gldly appreciate it. Thank you for your time and have a nice day.

In answer to the question... yes and read my post above, it tells all.

Hola tengo un mitsubishi modelo wd 73737 de 73 pulgadas me salieron en toda la pantalla unas estrellitas como puntos blancos,me dijeron que era la lampara se la cambie y no pude resolber,es del ano 2009 si alguien me puede ayudar se lo agradeceria,gracias y que Dios los bendiga.

I have the Mitsubishi WD-62528, I try to turn on the tv but wont come on, i resest the tv lights blink for about 30-45sec. then goes out. I power the TV up, it comes on, stays on for about 30 sec. then click off and the "timer" light starts blinking.

This time, hen the light goes out, I'll try to turn the tv back on but nothing happens cant turn it on with tthe remote or by pushing the power buttton. Then Ill have to unplug it let it reset then im able to power the tv back up but then again it turns itself off and start the rest blinking again then goes out.

Sounds as though the issue may be a "x-ray protection" fault which is generally the result of failed Convergence Chips. I recommend you search issues related to this failure before proceeding further.

Check fuses F9a04 and F9A05. If fuse(s) are blown, DO NOT REPLACE THEM untill you replace the Convergence IC's.

The convergence IC's are located and mounted on a large metal plate called a heat sink, but are mounted on the back side of the heat sink, so you will need to loosen the wires and pull out the chassis in order to replace.

You may prefer to visit: and purchase the complete "convergence kit" for the WD-62528. The kit includes all original replacement parts, the common resistors that go bad, the correct pico fuses, pictorial easy to follow directions and in case you hit a snag with the repair free on-line live tech assistance.


When you replace your convergence ICs be sure when you apply the thermal paste -which I believe is included with the kit from tvrepairkits - to put on a small amount of on the chip. This should not be a thick coating! Too thick of a coating will have the effect of acting like an insulator thus not transfering the heat to the metal - when I removed the failing chip I noticed there was a lot of paste used - which is wrong - and this was from the factory. I placed a small amount on and made sure the entire surface of the chip was covered - then wiped away the excess with a card. Less in this case is best - you want to transfer the heat from the chip to the metal to keep the chip cooler and prolong its life! Good luck!

I've been reading all the help you have been offering...I think it's great...I have a WS-65713... at first I had the vertical lines in conponate and composite inputs (none with DVD movies)..I tired changing the DM caps from 85c to 105c and the lines still appear..I played around alittle more in the back of the tv and notce when I move the PCB terminal board alittle the lines go away...just recently I moved the terminal board and the tv shut off...when I try to turn the tv on now the green light blinks for about 30 second then I hear a click..then no power....

Am I having a votage regulator problems or do I need to replace the PCB terminal board?

Thank you for this detailed article. After a recent power outage, my TV WS-65909 would not come on with the blinking green light. I replaced the 7 capacitors and voila, it works perfectly! I thought I was going to be buying a new TV. Thank you very much for the information!! I fixed it in less than an hour with less than $5 in parts.

Hola tengo un mitsubishi de 73 del ano 2009 modelo wd-73737 y le han salido puntos blancos en toda la pantalla,le cambie la lampara y no resolbi,me dijeron que era el chip dnd,por favor si me pueden ayudar como resolber el problema sin gastar mucho,gracias y que dios los bendiga.

Is the blinking green light error when it blinks green for a while, but then changes to red?

Holy freiking moley - Let me begin by saying that today is Black Friday 2011 and my mother - who has been without a TV for 3 weeks - was about 8 hours from buying a new $1000 HDTV. WHile it would have been an upgrade for her from our Mistsubishi rear projection TV, my arrival home and discovery of this thread save us approximately $985!!! I have never soldered a day in my life, and was able to pull this operation off. Granted, it was a bit of a pain in the ass - it was well worth the effort and you should have seen the dance i did when the TV powered on after about 90 seconds of the green blinking light after the fix. Similiarly to other folks, this incident arose from a power outage from the October Noreaster of 2011, and somehow those capacitors got fried.

I did actually use the Radio Shack capacitors (couldnt wait for shipping for more legit ones - we will see how long they hold up)

Thanks to Larry and all those who posted with there success stories - had i not seen them, I probably would be at best buy as we speak.



hello Larry I have the Mits 52725 constant blinking light could you tell me where to get directions on a fix please. Thanks

Dear Speed,

Thank you for posting the "Mitsubishi Blinking Green Light Repair Procedure". It worked perfectly. I had a bit of a surprise in that my B-55 model already had capacitors rated at 105 degrees and they looked alright. But a few tests with a multimeter showed they were not. Did the changeover and "voila".

best regards,


I used these instructions to replace the 7 capacitors in my Mitsubishi WS-65511 yesterday. It was pretty simple and now my TV works like new! I was so relieved after I plugged it back in afterward and saw the blinking and then it stopped blinking after a minute. I took my remote and turned it on...and success! Thank you so much for the instructions! It cost me about $35 which included a soldering iron and de-soldering iron from Radio Shack, and the capacitors from Digi-Key.



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