Mitsubishi "Blinking Green Light" Repair Procedure

This Article is written to provide assistance and step-by-step guidance in resolving the Mitsubishi "Blinking Green Light" issue. This failure is often referred to as the "Blinking Green Light of Death" or BLOG. A large amount of information is included in this Article, all of which will help you to both understand and repair the 'Blinking Green Light' problem.

Written specifically for the Mitsubishi 65" WS-65813, this article ALSO applies to other Mitsubishi models with the same 'blinking green light' issue.

The Mitsubishi 'Blinking Green Light' failure is common with many Mitsubishi models including the WS-65813, WS-48513, WS-48613, WS-55513, WS-55613, WS-55813, WS-65513, WS-65613, WS-65713, WS-73513, WS-73713 and others. This detailed repair procedure will assist, even the NOVICE, in the required repair process. Links are provided for downloading Mitsubishi Service Manuals and for recommended parts ordering. Circuitboard photos are also shown which provide a visual reference during the repair process.

I hope that this Article helps you to resolve your Mitsubishi "Blinking Green Light" issue.


When I encountered the 'blinking green light' issue with my Mitsubishi 65" WS-65813, I called Mitsubishi's Customer Service Department. Following repeated promises to correct the issue, it soon became evident that they were both "dragging" their feet and not at all anxious to admit liability for this failure or to provide a timely repair of the television. After several phone calls to Customer Service, I sent a detailed letter to Mitsubishi Customer Service with a copy to Mitsubishi's President & CEO outlining my concerns and asking for a "good will" repair of my 65" Mitsubishi. After waiting about three weeks for Mitsubishi to assign one of their Authorized Repair Dealers to repair the unit, I repaired the television myself.

Mitsubishi Customer Service did not follow up on the issue and I never received a acknowledgement letter from Mitsubishi's President and CEO.

Repairing It Yourself

If you decide to repair the TV yourself, I recommend that you obtain a copy of the repair manual for your Mitsubishi TV from the Techlore website by going to Mitsubishi Service Manual. It will provide some direction, however it is technically written and may be difficult for the NOVICE to understand. If you are unable to locate the the service manual for your specific Model at the above Techlore link, you may need to purchase the service manual online at

If you decide to have a service technician do the repair, insist that the "DM" module is removed from the TV and ONLY the four 1000uF, 16V Capacitors (Caps) located on the DM Module are replaced. MOST techincians will INSIST on replacing the entire DM Module and not simply the capacitors. The cost is about $200 for a technician to replace the capacitors and $1000 for replacement of the DM Module. As you will read below, doing the repair yourself will cost less than $4.00 for the 4 Caps.


I repaired my Mitsubishi WS-65813 by replacing the four (4) DM Module 1000uF, 16V, 85C Capacitors. The basic tools and materials required were: Four (4) capacitors, soldering iron, rosin solder, wire cutters, phillips & flat-head screw drivers and pliers.

Repair estimates, from a local authorized Mitsubishi Repair Center, was between $800 - $1000 to replace the DM Module. My total out-of-pocket cost for replacing the four (4) capacitors was $3.50.

Replacement Parts:

Replace the original four (4) 1000µF, 16V, 85ºC capacitors on the DM Module with Radial Polarized, 1000µF, 35V, 105ºC Capacitors.

Description: Computer Grade Electrolytic Capacitors or High Temp Electrolytic Capacitors; Capacitance = 1000µF; Voltage = 35 V; Operating Temperature Range = - 20º C to + 105º C; Termination Style = Radial, Operating Hours = 10,000 Life Hours. The original DM capacitors are rated at 1000µF, 16V, 85ºC. Do not use capacitors with this rating to repair your Mitsubishi television, or else the same issue will reappear in 1-2 years.

The capacitors are available from several on-line electronics stores and possibly from a local television repair shop. I recommend that you use ONLY high temp Capacitors rated at 105º C, with a voltage rating of 35 V. Refer to the "General Information" section below for additional information about purchasing the capacitors from a online website.

If you decide to take on the repair project yourself, pay CLOSE attention to my "Lesson Learned" note; a copy of which is provided below. This was posted to TechLore on October 4th, 2007. See comments below.

Copied from a previous Techlore posting. Quite important:

October 4, 2007 3:30 PM

Lesson Learned: Larry, For your information and others, after replacing the 4 capacitors on the DM Module, I slid the DM circuit board back into the metal DM case and then inserted the entire unit into the main circuit board. This was working in the "blind" as it was impossible to verify a proper seat of the DM circuit board onto the mother board. The blinking green light was still present upon power-up of the TV. I again removed the DM module from the TV and this time I re-installed the DM circuit board onto the main mother board and THEN installed the DM metal case over the top of the circuit board. By doing this, I was able to ensure a proper connection of the DM board. Upon power-up the TV is UP and RUNNING.

A Few "Cautions"

  1. Keep yourself "grounded" when working with the circuit board. Static electricity will destroy electronic components.
  2. When replacing the Capacitors, press them "down" onto the circuit board as far as they will go, hold them down, solder into place and clip the excess terminal lengths flush with solder. Only by doing this will the metal shield (little silver box) slide down and over the circuit board during re-assembly. There is not a lot of clearance when doing this, as the 105C Capacitors are slightly longer that the originals. With minimal effort everything does fit back together.
  3. Use ONLY 105º C capacitors with a voltage rating of 35 V.
  4. Re-insert the DM circuit board into the Mother board; press virmly and ensure a proper seat of the DM board. Next, slide the metal case down and over the DM circuit board. Refer to my "Lesson Learned."

General Overview of Mitsubshi Power-up Cycle

Normal Power-up Sequence: During TV power-up, the green light blinks until the Digital Modulator (DM) has booted up and is in sync with the microprocessor. Once the two are in sync, the television will "turn on". A failure in this boot up process is indicated by the "blinking green light" continuing to flash and the television's failure to "turn on".

Problem: Continuous "blinking green light". Mitsubishi television will not "turn on"; no video and/or audio; no audible noise or sound from the TV. Blinking green light will extinguish ONLY by unplugging the Mitsubishi from its power source.

Basic Troubleshooting

  1. Press the "reset" button and hold for 10 seconds .... Does TV turn on and blinking green light turn to solid green.
  2. Unplug the TV from it's power source for various times, ranging between 5 minutes and 24 hours..... Does blinking green light continue upon plugging in the TV.
  3. Disconnect ALL devices from the TV; DVD, Tuner, Cable Box, unplug the TV for various duration times .... Does blinking green light continues upon plugging in the TV.
  4. Press Power and Menu buttons simultaneously and hold depressed for 20 seconds .... Does blinking green light continue to flash.
  5. Press Power and Display buttons simultaneously and hold depressed for 20 seconds .... Does blinking green light continue to flash.
  6. Insure that no front panel buttons are inadvertently stuck in an "engaged" position.

Diagnosis: If none of the above test resolve the issue, then the failure lies in one of the following:

  1. DM Module Capacitors have FAILED.
  2. DM Module is defective.
  3. EEPROM Board failure
  4. Power Supply failure.

Perform a Mitsubishi "error code" diagnostic check to assist in determining where the problem lies. Refer to your Owner's Manual for specific procedures on running this check. You may also read Mitsubishi Television Error Code Diagnostic Procedure which is posted on Techlore's website.


General Information

For this repair you will need a Phillips screwdriver, a 15 or 25 watt soldering iron, a desoldering tool (recommended), and four electrolytic capacitors. For the optional fan replacement you need a PC cooling fan, zip ties, foam tape (or weather stripping) and a 12v AC to DC power adapter. Note: The cooling fan is not required provided you replace the capacitors with Caps having a 105c high temp rating.

I recommend replacing the original (bad) 1000µF, 16V, 85ºC capacitors with Panasonic 10,000 hour, Radial Polarized, 1000µF, 35V, 105ºC high temp capacitors. The Panasonic Part Number is EEU-EB1V102. The capacitors may be purchased from a local electronics repair shop or online at The Digi-Key Part Number is P13126-ND.

If you require a soldering iron, I recommend Radio Shack's 15 Watt Soldering Iron, Part # 64-2051 or the 25 Watt Soldering Iron, Part # 64-2070. Radio Shack also has a desoldering tool, Part# 64-2060, which you may find helpful in removing old solder from the connections, without damaging the board. A basic 11 piece Electronic Tool Kit, Part # 64-2803A may also be of value. The cost for each of these tools is between $10 and $20. Similiar tools are also available from Lowe's, Home Depot or Wallmart.

This is a fairly simple repair for those with a little soldering experience.

Start by unplugging the TV. Disconnect the coax and digital audio cables and remove the rear panel.

Remove the plastic panel mounting screws and set the panel aside.

If you are going to install a fan, position it on the right side of the shield (as seen from the rear) and mark its outline with a pencil. It is easiest to install the fan with the shield removed from the TV, but by marking its mounting position first, you will avoid placing the fan on a part of the shield that has an obstruction. The DM guide partly covers the capacitors that need cooling and the metal tray under the CRTs also restricts fan placement.

Remove the four (4) screws that secure the DM Module. For the left side screw, it may be easier to pull out and set aside the PWB-DEMOD board. It is a small vertical card just to the left of the DM and has a broad copper grounding spring. This will simplify access to the left side DM shield mounting screws. See the pictures below:

Left side of DM Module

Front side of DM Module

Right side of DM Module

Unplug the USB and Firewire cables from the top of the DM, as well as the cable that runs from the front input jacks to the connector on top of the terminal board. Unscrew the grounding strap from the top of the doubler shield.

Remove the 2 screws in the plastic bracket that holds the DMÃ Module in place. After removing both screws, pry the plastic piece away from the support piece to which it is mounted.

The DM Module and the shield are removed vertically. In order for there to be enough clearance, the chassis needs to be pulled toward the rear of the TV. All the electronics are mounted on a tray that can slide back like a drawer to make servicing easier.

Remove the board slide, which is a narrow fiber board that stretches the width of the TV above the rear of the chassis and shields the light box from scattered light. It is held in place by a long black screw on either side of the TV. Use caution as the board may fall when the screws are removed.

Undo the wire ties on the cables going to the front of the TV. You will need slack in these wires as you slide the chassis out. You will also need to unplug some of the connectors on the shorter wires. Remove the screw (a) on the edge of the chassis and screws (b) on the xx813. See diagram below:

Release the chassis lock tab on either side of the chassis. The tray may be a bit hard to slide, so alternately tug on the left and right edges to rock the tray rearward. Go slowly in case you've missed freeing a wire bundle. Pay attention to the large red anode wires and other cables on the right hand side as they are clipped to the frame of the TV. Pull the chassis back until the DM shield will clear any obstructions above.

Remove the screws holding the DM shield. (Note: Do not use a power screwdriver on these screws as it is very easy to strip the threads.) There are two on top of the shield, two in the rear base, and one in the middle of the base on either side of the shield. The DM shield can be snug and hard to pull up. Gently rock the shield front and back while applying upward force. You may want to hold down the board below (DTV-TUNER) to avoid disturbing the ribbon connectors to the signal board. The DM itself also comes out straight up, but it is not nearly as tight.

Remove the DM Module by pulling it straight up (toward the top of the television). DO NOT pull it at an angle. The DM Module is connected to the circuit board by 4 sets of pins.

Once the pins are free from the onboard connectors, continue pulling straight up. There is a plastic guide that makes it necessary to pull the DM Module straight up and sliding it over the plastic guide.

With the DM Module removed and positioned, as shown in the photo below, remove the 2 screws located next to the USB and IEEE-1394 jacks and slide the DM circuitboard out of the metal case.

The next and most important task will be to carefully remove and replace the 1000µF, 16V, 85ºC capacitors with 1000µF, 35V, 105ºC capacitors.

CAUTION: Handle the DM circuitboard by the edges to avoid static damage. If you hold the DM with the components facing you and the external connectors on the left, you can find the capacitors in question in a cluster on the top right corner of the board.

Here is what a typical capacitor failure looks like:

The top of the capacitors shown above may only have a slight bulge, but they have indeed failed.

Desolder and replace all of the capacitors at the same time. When inserting the new capacitors, pay close attention to the polarity. The rear of the board has the positive terminal labeled and the longest lead is positive. The capacitor body has the negative terminal marked by dashes running down one side. All the capacitors have the same orientation:

Insert all four capacitors as close to the board as possible. The Panasonic capacitors are 4mm higher than the stock capacitors and there is very little extra room inside the shield. If properly installed, the DM Module case will fit over the DM board during re-assembly.

The picture below shows the underside of the DM board after the capacitors have been removed.

With the BAD capacitors removed, thread the new capacitor leads through the holes in the DM board. Ensure that you have the positive and negative leads on the capacitors threaded through the proper hole. With the capacitors in place, maintain pressure to firmly seat the capacitors against the circuit board and carefully solder each connection. It will help considerably if someone provides assistance during this very important soldering step.

Replace the original 1000uF, 16V, 85C capacitors with Radial Polarized 1000uF, 35V, 105C Capacitors.

If you are going to install a cooling fan, do so now. Once again, if you have used capacitors with a 105ºC temp rating, the cooling fan is not required or recommended. If installing the fan, stick some foam tape or adhesive weather stripping to each corner of the fan. This will minimize fan vibration noise and provide the fan with some clearance from the shield. The shield has a thin ridge that runs diagonally and prevents the fan from sitting flush, but the foam tape will allow the fan to straddle the ridge.

Place the fan on the pencil lines you drew earlier and secure two diagonal corners of the fan with small zip ties through holes in the shield. The zip ties are flat and their low profile will allow the shield to slide over the DM board without getting caught. You can run your fan from a 6v power supply to minimize noise, but test it first since not all PC fans will spin up with just 6v.

For individuals with the Mitsubishi WS-55859, WS-55909, WS-65869, WS-65909, WS-73909 or other Mitsubishi models with seven (7) of the 1000uF, 16V Capacitors on the DM Module instead of four (4), the two photos below may provide a visual orientation when looking at the DM Module circuit board. In this case replace all seven of the original capacitors with those having a rating of 1000uF, 35V, 105C.



Installation is the reverse of removal. The DM will slide down onto the four connectors at its base and there is a plastic vertical guide to ensure proper alignment of the board. Be careful not to bend the copper grounding springs that touch the connector end (rear) of the DM as it slides back into place. Carefully slide the DM shield back over the DM board and be careful not to snag the taller capacitors. Install the 6 screws that secure the DM in place. (Note that the two screws on the top of the DM shield are different from the other four). Plug the PWB-DEMOD card back in and ensure that its copper ground spring is touching the left edge of the DM shield.

Slowly slide the chassis back into the TV and be careful not to pinch any wires running to the front of the TV. The chassis should click as the release tabs lock into place. Secure the chassis with the long black screws. Reconnect all the wires you had removed and secure the excess slack back into the wire ties. Plug the USB and Firewire connectors back on the top of the DM and plug the cable from the front inputs back onto the top of the terminal board. Screw the grounding strap to the top of the doubler shield. Do not over tighten it as it is easy to break the threaded mounting plate on the shield. Install the DM rear cover and screws. Reconnect the coax antenna and digital audio cable back into the DM (if applicable).

Lastly, put the board slide back and remember that it could fall unless properly screwed in place. Double check all the connectors on the boards to be sure you haven't missed reconnecting anything. Install the rear cover of the TV and route the optional fan's power cable over the top of the rear cover to avoid pinching the cable.

Plug the TV back in and the front light should blink for about a minute as the DM boots. When the light has turned off, power up the TV and verify operation. If all goes well, your TV should boot in about one minute and there should be no more interference in the picture or OSD.

WS-65813 Advanced Troubleshooting

For those more technically inclined than most, you may enjoy the following. For the rest of you, IGNORE these checks.

  3. SHORT DETECT SHUTDOWN (PIN 13 OF IC700) CHECK FOR SHORTED D913 PART # 264P722010 AND OPEN Z901 PART # 283P039020 (Z905 AND Z900 M.

Also, if the 24 volt B+ and or B- is missing from the convergence ICs, change both convergence ICs as well as the defective pico fuse in the power supply. This is most likely not a quicky type of repair. These are a few of my notes on this set from me and a few of my buds in the buisness. Good Luck and let us know how you made out with this set.

A Word of Caution

To all of you who may be attempting the capacitor fix on their Mitsubishi a word of caution. Modern circuit boards are easily damaged by static electricity. Tech's in the industry use grounding wrist straps when handling these boards. Simply walking across a room with the circuit board in your hand could damage it. Try to ground yourself to the metal chassis of the tv when touching circuits. Even though the TV is not plugged in it will equalize your electrical potential. Handle the circuit board carefully by the edges when taking it to your workbench. Try to ground yourself while soldering on the board. I bring this up after reading some posts that stated after changing out the caps they ended up with new or different problems. That's why you see new circuit boards shipped in the anti static special plastic bags.

This DM board communicates with the sets internal microprocessor. That's why if the set is working properly, and you first plug the set in, the light blinks and then stops blinking. When it stops blinking, that means the DM has booted up and is all in sync with the microprocessor and ready to go. If the set does not stop blinking, that is an indication that the DM has not booted up and communicated with the microprocessor. This is the basic explanation, as there is a lot more to it than this:

  1. Could be poor solder connections, the power coming to the DM board from the main power supply could be bad.
  2. The EEPROM could be bad
  3. The power supply or sweep power supply could have bad connections or swollen capacitors.

The first thing to do is check all of the plugs, connectors, and connections to and around the DM board. Next would be to check for other large capacitors on other boards with swollen tops. The next thing would be to start checking power supply upon switch on. But, first do the diagnostic test as explained in the service manual. Maybe it will point you in the right direction.

If you have taken the time to follow these advance trouble shooting instructions and the Blinking Green Light continues to be a issue, a service tech may be required to complete the repair.

I hope that this Article has provided guidance and assisted in the repair of your Mitsubishi's "Blinking Green Light" issue.



Mitsubishi Service Manual: Mitsubishi Service Manual

If you require additional assistance or advice, feel free to send me a private message.

Contact information for Mitsubishi Customer Service:

9351 Jeronimo Rd.
Irvine, CA 92618
Mitsubishi Consumer Relations
Fax: 949.609.4900

President & CEO (July 2008)
President & CEO
Ikuo Morisada
Mitsubishi Electronics
9351 Jeronimo Rd.
Irvine, CA 92618



I have a WS-65819 TV with the blinking light problem. The error code I beleive is 24. Is the same procedure for my TV? Thank you

good information, is it also the same repair for a ws55111 built in 2003?

Larry-this is a new question-tried to find a way to email you but no helped me last year with my blinking light-all good-but now none of the buttons on the tv work....power,volume etc.With remote I can turn tv on and off and make the volume go UP but not down!Help!

Mr. Speed,
Followed your instructions on the blinking green light fix and it worked just as you said it would. Thank-you so much for this post it was a very simple fix. Live in So Cal and I found a capacitor supply house in H.B. cost for a bag of ten caps was $10. Also found caps at Fry's , Marvac electronics
went with the supply house because after a 30 sec phone call parts were at will
call and waiting for me. I have a 65909 bought in 2002 and this is the first trouble I have had. Power outage on Sunday around 6pm was the cause and TV is up and running before noon on Monday. Total cost of fix is $10 and about two hours of time. I already had the rest of tools and what not for fix. Once again thank you so much and everyone else associated, know where to come should any other problems arise.

hi ihave a 65 inch mitsubishi model wd65737 2 year old that went dead, green light just click on and goes off right away it wont stay on i was reading some of your advise and i was wondering if capacitors on my tv its going out, i call mitsubishi and they told me to up grade software and i did tv work for a week and start doing same thing,call them back and said that i need a technitian and it wont help out with repair cause warranty expire 2 months ago,i really apreciate if you have some advise for this model and problem, or if you have heard of similar problem on this model,
thank you will wait for your reply

I am about to install my new capacitors. When I inserted the new one it's more than double in size. In the article (thank you for that) you advise using 35v capacitors but in the photo's you show 16v. I just wanted to confirm this was not a typo.

I went ahead with the install it worked. Awesome!

Note that some models have 4 caps and others have 7. There are also two SMD fuses that may need to be replaced. Larry Dillon was the master at this repair and before he passed away he helped put together an excellent repair that is avail on I has all of Larry's original notes, photo instructions, the caps, and the smd fuses, etc. Its a complete kit.

PS - Larry - we miss you.

I have a WS-73909 that loses the sat picture after an hour or so, it has sound but no picture, if I switch to DVD it's fine. I replaced sat receiver but still same problem.

I have a ws 65515 that I have two dm boards the original and a a dm from a 48515 the eprom is only from the ws65515 i replaced the all caps on the board and i continue getting a green flashing light i also checked the fuses on the dm board and they are good i cant seem to get this tv up. i am fustrated the caps are theright ones 25 volts at 1000uf and nothing i would like to get this tv working because it has the hdmi port can u help me please? thanks chris

try removing the eprom board entirely to see if the TV will power up without it. If the TV does power up the convergance and many other settings will be very off but it will let you know if the board is the issue...

There is also a problem with the TV going completely shutting down. I did push the reset button ( blinking green light goes on ) and after the light goes off, I turn on the tv, comes on, then goes off. But if i wait for an hour or so, the tv will stay on, untill the next time. From the internet, it saids to replace the 3 greem ceramic " Pico " fuses on the middle board. ( is this true ? )

I just checked this thread after seeing the link in my bookmarks. "dragon seaker" you may want to see if you have the same issue I had. I have two posts on page 18. I didn't have to replace the capacitors. The tubes leak over time. I had the same issue a year and a half ago, but I was able to clean up everything and the TV has been perfect ever since. I cleaned everything and put an aluminum foil drip pan in. I used a couple of layers of aluminum foil and folded up the sides. It's hanging in mid air by zip ties.

I have a mitsubishi ws-65613.i bought at a garage sale. Was told it works. Got it home and doesn't. Getting a code 21,xray protect. The tv kicks on for a few seconds then kicks back off. Everything inside looks clean, all capacitors look fine, no traces of coolant leakage or anything... I just can't figure out where to start. Also the DT CONNECTOR has nothing plugged into it, is that normal? I have a multi meter and do have a little bit of electronic background so im hoping i can figure it out....

21 - xray protect is the error I had too and, for me, it was coolant. The coolant is clear and it wasn't obvious at first. If you pull out the tray, anything in the back is under the bulbs. Coolant could be anywhere. I cleaned it all up with q-tips and paper towels where it was worst.

It's been a while and I'm not sure which the DT Connector is. I still have the pictures, so if you say where it is, I can look at the pics for it.

I cleaned mine up in June, 2011 and it's been perfect since. Obviously, I have no idea what issue your TV is having and it may not be coolant. Good luck!

Hi I have a mitsubish tv and i hit the power button, it will flash green three times then makes a weird noise kinda like static but also sounds more like fring oil in a A pan, which lasts for about 2 seconds then stops ...error code 21. What's wrong and how to fix !!!!

We took our WD-Y 657 tv apart and the capacitors were not bulged so we left them alone put the tv back together and we still have the same green blinking light.  We tried obtained our diagnostic code of 12 - no error?  Do you have any advise for us.  Thank you.



If you are looking at the TV from the rear - the DM Module is located to the left. You need to take apart part of the cabinet in order to get to it. The cables will need to be disconnected from the other boards - if memory serves me correctly I think there are 3 cable harnesses that need to be disconnected. The cables are on the short side and so you will need to be very careful. Somewhere on this site there should be instructions with pictures...


Yes - in the metal box. So depending upon your model of TV it might be either 4 or 7 capacitors. Visually they might look fine so don't rely upon that - if you do see swelling at the top of the caps that is a visual indication that the caps are showing signs of execessive wear...



Before you start doing anything make sure the TV is unplugged. Next be careful when handling Capacitors - they can store a charge long after the TV has been shut off. Radio Shack sells wrist bands that you can wear - just connect the alligator clip to a metal ground. This will hekp protect against ESD - electro static discharge.

I have a Mitsubishi modell WS65711 The green light kips blinking then when it stops the TV goes on. Not anymore. What could the problem(s) be and how do I repair myself if possible? Thanks

I have a wd 57733 from 08 and I have the blinking light problem. I have it apart and I only have one 1000 pf cap on the power board. I can't find any information on the 57733 all the info is on the TVA with 4 or 7 caps. Help please

where do i get the guide for replacing the capacitors in the ws48515 for fixing the blinking green light of death if anyone can help y email is

I have a WD-65611 2003 and got the Blinking Green light last week after the power blinked. I ordered 7 Capacitors from Allied Electronics ( for .79 each. I had to modify the enclosure because the Caps were too tall but after everything was put back together. My TV lives again. Thanks, everyone.

I have a 73 inch mitsubishi tv that show a blue screen saying Mitsubishi electric welcome and a flashing green status light I have tried unpluging it and still will not show tv picture what should I do

I have model WS65909 with 7 capacitors. The 35V capacitors are too large. They fit very tight. I would say they touch each other.

I'm thinking of using the 16V instead. I noticed that TheRemshoT '...had to modify the enclosure'. My problem is not the enclosure but rather the way the 35V sits on the board. Has anyone had this problem and still used the 35V?


Sollymon see my post (the one with pictures) as I said they are bigger and they do touch but they have a much higher tolerance, pull them all the way through the board and spread the prongs apart before soldering to keep them snug. Mine has been working every since. $13 buck fix, I don't know why I bought 10 of them, they are so cheap anyways.

Doug333,  Thanks a lot. Your July 19th 2011 is a big help. Your setup is like mine "7 closely fit capacitors".

I presume that it is OK if the capactiors may 'touch' slighlty - espcialy the group of 3 (C9B14, 13, and 18). I thought capacitors get very hot. Am I wrong?

Thanks again. I'll let you know what happens.

Hi again, I don't know if anyone else had this problem but here it is. In order to pull the DM module I had to disconnect a few connectors. CD, DA, and so on. I noticed that the connector and the board had markings Such as a DA wire connector would have a DA slot to connect to. I did not notice this until I was re-assembling my TV that the PF connector has a slot on the DM board but none on the main board. There is an RG slot open into which the PF connector will fit. There are no other connectors on the main board available for the PF connector. That is, the only available slot is for an RG connector. I do not have an RG wire. I'm tempted to just go ahead and connect the PF wire harness to the RG connector. This is counter-intuitive but I don't see an alternative. Thanks again

I didn't disconnect any wires going from the T.V. into the metal box (I just twisted them so I could turn the box on it's side.), only from inside the box to the DM power board. 4 brass phillips head screws and 3 connectors, i took pictures just so I could remember what went where when I put it together again. Try hunting through pics and see if you can figure it out. And yes, the capacitors touch but they have not been a problem yet in my set.


I eventually used to find the location of the PF connector on the main board. It cost me $28 to submit the question but it was well worth it. Out of pocket costs were $28 plus about $15 for the capacitors and $12 for a soldering iron for a total of $55. It took my wife an I a couple of hours working directly on fixing the TV. I am a novice, no, pretty much a virgin at TV repair. I have worked on PC hardware which is much simplier than this.

This is an extrememly helpful "blog"

Thanks to all the contributors.

Speed, you available to help on my 65869?

I have a Mitsubishi WD73734 with the blicking green light.  Not sure if the WD has the same problems as the WS series. My unit won't turn at all unless I do the Guide+Format reset according to the service manaul. After doing so I press the power on button and the green light goes off for a second I get what looks to be a backlight that comes on for 2 seconds and then the screen goes blank. The Lamp and fans and Dmd fan all come on after this kind of reset. After this condition I push the reset on the front panel the Lamp goes off, fans and I hear a high pitched descending winding sound. Then I am back at square one.  I have tried every type of reset and even the error code mode with code 12= no errors found. With very like cash to work with I am hoping someone out there could assist me with a recommendation of what might be the issue? I couldn't find firmware anywhere for this model.  Not sure if this may be a similar capacitor issue.  Thanks for any advise in advance!

Very,  FrustradedJim!  LOL


I had the blinking green death, replaced the 4 caps and the blinking stopped. However after plugging in the tv it does its reset function and when I press the power button the light comes on I hear 3 clicks on the power pcb then it shuts off, does that mean the pico fuses are bad? Mitsu WS65613

I have the Mitsu WS65613, Had the blinking green light, replaced the 4 caps which fixed the blinking. After plugging in the tv and it reset I pressed the power button the green light is steady on for 3 seconds then powers off again.
any suggestions?

All I see are comments to help when the light is blinking green can anyone help me when the light is blinking yellow? I put a new bulb in and plugged in the tv and all it is doing is blinking yellow. It will not come on at all. nothing no sound no picture

i have a Mitsubishi model wd62528 and it powers on for about a minute and then goes off... i geta green blinking light.. help

I just replaced the bulb on my 73 but have a blinking red to green light back and forth what does this mean

I have a Mitsubishi model wd 62528. I also have the blinking green light. The light will blink for a minute or so and go out. I can then turn the tv on. When I try to use any of the buttons on the tv or the remote, they don't work. Within a couple of minutes the tv will turn itself off and the blinking green light will start again. It will blink for a couple of minutes and go out. I can then turn the tv on and the buttons and remote don't work......this continues on and on.
what seems to be the problem?

Hi all. I have a Mitsubichi wd-62725 with the blinking green light when its plugged in. I tried to get the error code but nothing works, except the reset button which turns off the blinking green light, then it comes right back on.
Help is needed.
please reply to

error code 23 on my mitsubishi WS65909. Fixed green blinking light of death about a year ago. Any help would be great

Model number wd62528

flashing green light but after a day will turn off and the tv will turn on what is the problem with the tv!! Now will not turn on and flashing green gain help me someone please

i have a wd73640...i get the blinking will blink like a 100 times,...blink for bootup, then power on, stay green for a min or 2, then turn will sometimes blink until i unplug it 5- 10mins later...and every once in a while , it turn on just fine..i had the lamp replaced 2 weeks ago, and had the cable and net guys come to set up my play room...i turned it on , and it worked fine ...then they plugged their stuff in...and the problems started happening. it was plugged in about 24hrs b4 they got here, it tested fine for me at that time and 1 hr b they got here

i have mitsubishi tv model wd-57734 that has the blinking green timer light flashing. i have read on the other blogs this can be fixed on the cheap. is it the same part and procedure if socan someone pleas send me the parts list and procedure. thanks

Replacing the defective caps did not work for me!

Just today I had replaced the compasitors on my ws-65713.
The compasitors were clearly bad (the caps were bulged)
I replaced them with the ariganal 1000uf 16v caps.
Everything seems to be properly put back together.
I still have that damn green flashing light!

I took the board back out to make sure it was properly connected.
I actually connected it up the second time without the metal shield
is there any concerns for doing that?

Any other help ???

I have a Mitsubishi RPHD TV model WD67307, I recently replaced the lamp on it as it failed. Unfortyunately now it has a different symptom. When I turn it on, the green light blinks [as usual], a "welcome screen" appears [as usual], but after the welcome screen gets brighter the set suddenly turns off. I've posted this message on different posts and boards, and it has been suggested that the capacitors are damaged. I checked them but they don't have any bulges. I am aware that they may not, but I need re-assurance that this is the problem before I go meddling into something I might regret. Any help will be greatly appreciated.



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