Mitsubishi "Blinking Green Light" Repair Procedure

This Article is written to provide assistance and step-by-step guidance in resolving the Mitsubishi "Blinking Green Light" issue. This failure is often referred to as the "Blinking Green Light of Death" or BLOG. A large amount of information is included in this Article, all of which will help you to both understand and repair the 'Blinking Green Light' problem.

Written specifically for the Mitsubishi 65" WS-65813, this article ALSO applies to other Mitsubishi models with the same 'blinking green light' issue.

The Mitsubishi 'Blinking Green Light' failure is common with many Mitsubishi models including the WS-65813, WS-48513, WS-48613, WS-55513, WS-55613, WS-55813, WS-65513, WS-65613, WS-65713, WS-73513, WS-73713 and others. This detailed repair procedure will assist, even the NOVICE, in the required repair process. Links are provided for downloading Mitsubishi Service Manuals and for recommended parts ordering. Circuitboard photos are also shown which provide a visual reference during the repair process.

I hope that this Article helps you to resolve your Mitsubishi "Blinking Green Light" issue.


When I encountered the 'blinking green light' issue with my Mitsubishi 65" WS-65813, I called Mitsubishi's Customer Service Department. Following repeated promises to correct the issue, it soon became evident that they were both "dragging" their feet and not at all anxious to admit liability for this failure or to provide a timely repair of the television. After several phone calls to Customer Service, I sent a detailed letter to Mitsubishi Customer Service with a copy to Mitsubishi's President & CEO outlining my concerns and asking for a "good will" repair of my 65" Mitsubishi. After waiting about three weeks for Mitsubishi to assign one of their Authorized Repair Dealers to repair the unit, I repaired the television myself.

Mitsubishi Customer Service did not follow up on the issue and I never received a acknowledgement letter from Mitsubishi's President and CEO.

Repairing It Yourself

If you decide to repair the TV yourself, I recommend that you obtain a copy of the repair manual for your Mitsubishi TV from the Techlore website by going to Mitsubishi Service Manual. It will provide some direction, however it is technically written and may be difficult for the NOVICE to understand. If you are unable to locate the the service manual for your specific Model at the above Techlore link, you may need to purchase the service manual online at

If you decide to have a service technician do the repair, insist that the "DM" module is removed from the TV and ONLY the four 1000uF, 16V Capacitors (Caps) located on the DM Module are replaced. MOST techincians will INSIST on replacing the entire DM Module and not simply the capacitors. The cost is about $200 for a technician to replace the capacitors and $1000 for replacement of the DM Module. As you will read below, doing the repair yourself will cost less than $4.00 for the 4 Caps.


I repaired my Mitsubishi WS-65813 by replacing the four (4) DM Module 1000uF, 16V, 85C Capacitors. The basic tools and materials required were: Four (4) capacitors, soldering iron, rosin solder, wire cutters, phillips & flat-head screw drivers and pliers.

Repair estimates, from a local authorized Mitsubishi Repair Center, was between $800 - $1000 to replace the DM Module. My total out-of-pocket cost for replacing the four (4) capacitors was $3.50.

Replacement Parts:

Replace the original four (4) 1000µF, 16V, 85ºC capacitors on the DM Module with Radial Polarized, 1000µF, 35V, 105ºC Capacitors.

Description: Computer Grade Electrolytic Capacitors or High Temp Electrolytic Capacitors; Capacitance = 1000µF; Voltage = 35 V; Operating Temperature Range = - 20º C to + 105º C; Termination Style = Radial, Operating Hours = 10,000 Life Hours. The original DM capacitors are rated at 1000µF, 16V, 85ºC. Do not use capacitors with this rating to repair your Mitsubishi television, or else the same issue will reappear in 1-2 years.

The capacitors are available from several on-line electronics stores and possibly from a local television repair shop. I recommend that you use ONLY high temp Capacitors rated at 105º C, with a voltage rating of 35 V. Refer to the "General Information" section below for additional information about purchasing the capacitors from a online website.

If you decide to take on the repair project yourself, pay CLOSE attention to my "Lesson Learned" note; a copy of which is provided below. This was posted to TechLore on October 4th, 2007. See comments below.

Copied from a previous Techlore posting. Quite important:

October 4, 2007 3:30 PM

Lesson Learned: Larry, For your information and others, after replacing the 4 capacitors on the DM Module, I slid the DM circuit board back into the metal DM case and then inserted the entire unit into the main circuit board. This was working in the "blind" as it was impossible to verify a proper seat of the DM circuit board onto the mother board. The blinking green light was still present upon power-up of the TV. I again removed the DM module from the TV and this time I re-installed the DM circuit board onto the main mother board and THEN installed the DM metal case over the top of the circuit board. By doing this, I was able to ensure a proper connection of the DM board. Upon power-up the TV is UP and RUNNING.

A Few "Cautions"

  1. Keep yourself "grounded" when working with the circuit board. Static electricity will destroy electronic components.
  2. When replacing the Capacitors, press them "down" onto the circuit board as far as they will go, hold them down, solder into place and clip the excess terminal lengths flush with solder. Only by doing this will the metal shield (little silver box) slide down and over the circuit board during re-assembly. There is not a lot of clearance when doing this, as the 105C Capacitors are slightly longer that the originals. With minimal effort everything does fit back together.
  3. Use ONLY 105º C capacitors with a voltage rating of 35 V.
  4. Re-insert the DM circuit board into the Mother board; press virmly and ensure a proper seat of the DM board. Next, slide the metal case down and over the DM circuit board. Refer to my "Lesson Learned."

General Overview of Mitsubshi Power-up Cycle

Normal Power-up Sequence: During TV power-up, the green light blinks until the Digital Modulator (DM) has booted up and is in sync with the microprocessor. Once the two are in sync, the television will "turn on". A failure in this boot up process is indicated by the "blinking green light" continuing to flash and the television's failure to "turn on".

Problem: Continuous "blinking green light". Mitsubishi television will not "turn on"; no video and/or audio; no audible noise or sound from the TV. Blinking green light will extinguish ONLY by unplugging the Mitsubishi from its power source.

Basic Troubleshooting

  1. Press the "reset" button and hold for 10 seconds .... Does TV turn on and blinking green light turn to solid green.
  2. Unplug the TV from it's power source for various times, ranging between 5 minutes and 24 hours..... Does blinking green light continue upon plugging in the TV.
  3. Disconnect ALL devices from the TV; DVD, Tuner, Cable Box, unplug the TV for various duration times .... Does blinking green light continues upon plugging in the TV.
  4. Press Power and Menu buttons simultaneously and hold depressed for 20 seconds .... Does blinking green light continue to flash.
  5. Press Power and Display buttons simultaneously and hold depressed for 20 seconds .... Does blinking green light continue to flash.
  6. Insure that no front panel buttons are inadvertently stuck in an "engaged" position.

Diagnosis: If none of the above test resolve the issue, then the failure lies in one of the following:

  1. DM Module Capacitors have FAILED.
  2. DM Module is defective.
  3. EEPROM Board failure
  4. Power Supply failure.

Perform a Mitsubishi "error code" diagnostic check to assist in determining where the problem lies. Refer to your Owner's Manual for specific procedures on running this check. You may also read Mitsubishi Television Error Code Diagnostic Procedure which is posted on Techlore's website.


General Information

For this repair you will need a Phillips screwdriver, a 15 or 25 watt soldering iron, a desoldering tool (recommended), and four electrolytic capacitors. For the optional fan replacement you need a PC cooling fan, zip ties, foam tape (or weather stripping) and a 12v AC to DC power adapter. Note: The cooling fan is not required provided you replace the capacitors with Caps having a 105c high temp rating.

I recommend replacing the original (bad) 1000µF, 16V, 85ºC capacitors with Panasonic 10,000 hour, Radial Polarized, 1000µF, 35V, 105ºC high temp capacitors. The Panasonic Part Number is EEU-EB1V102. The capacitors may be purchased from a local electronics repair shop or online at The Digi-Key Part Number is P13126-ND.

If you require a soldering iron, I recommend Radio Shack's 15 Watt Soldering Iron, Part # 64-2051 or the 25 Watt Soldering Iron, Part # 64-2070. Radio Shack also has a desoldering tool, Part# 64-2060, which you may find helpful in removing old solder from the connections, without damaging the board. A basic 11 piece Electronic Tool Kit, Part # 64-2803A may also be of value. The cost for each of these tools is between $10 and $20. Similiar tools are also available from Lowe's, Home Depot or Wallmart.

This is a fairly simple repair for those with a little soldering experience.

Start by unplugging the TV. Disconnect the coax and digital audio cables and remove the rear panel.

Remove the plastic panel mounting screws and set the panel aside.

If you are going to install a fan, position it on the right side of the shield (as seen from the rear) and mark its outline with a pencil. It is easiest to install the fan with the shield removed from the TV, but by marking its mounting position first, you will avoid placing the fan on a part of the shield that has an obstruction. The DM guide partly covers the capacitors that need cooling and the metal tray under the CRTs also restricts fan placement.

Remove the four (4) screws that secure the DM Module. For the left side screw, it may be easier to pull out and set aside the PWB-DEMOD board. It is a small vertical card just to the left of the DM and has a broad copper grounding spring. This will simplify access to the left side DM shield mounting screws. See the pictures below:

Left side of DM Module

Front side of DM Module

Right side of DM Module

Unplug the USB and Firewire cables from the top of the DM, as well as the cable that runs from the front input jacks to the connector on top of the terminal board. Unscrew the grounding strap from the top of the doubler shield.

Remove the 2 screws in the plastic bracket that holds the DMÃ Module in place. After removing both screws, pry the plastic piece away from the support piece to which it is mounted.

The DM Module and the shield are removed vertically. In order for there to be enough clearance, the chassis needs to be pulled toward the rear of the TV. All the electronics are mounted on a tray that can slide back like a drawer to make servicing easier.

Remove the board slide, which is a narrow fiber board that stretches the width of the TV above the rear of the chassis and shields the light box from scattered light. It is held in place by a long black screw on either side of the TV. Use caution as the board may fall when the screws are removed.

Undo the wire ties on the cables going to the front of the TV. You will need slack in these wires as you slide the chassis out. You will also need to unplug some of the connectors on the shorter wires. Remove the screw (a) on the edge of the chassis and screws (b) on the xx813. See diagram below:

Release the chassis lock tab on either side of the chassis. The tray may be a bit hard to slide, so alternately tug on the left and right edges to rock the tray rearward. Go slowly in case you've missed freeing a wire bundle. Pay attention to the large red anode wires and other cables on the right hand side as they are clipped to the frame of the TV. Pull the chassis back until the DM shield will clear any obstructions above.

Remove the screws holding the DM shield. (Note: Do not use a power screwdriver on these screws as it is very easy to strip the threads.) There are two on top of the shield, two in the rear base, and one in the middle of the base on either side of the shield. The DM shield can be snug and hard to pull up. Gently rock the shield front and back while applying upward force. You may want to hold down the board below (DTV-TUNER) to avoid disturbing the ribbon connectors to the signal board. The DM itself also comes out straight up, but it is not nearly as tight.

Remove the DM Module by pulling it straight up (toward the top of the television). DO NOT pull it at an angle. The DM Module is connected to the circuit board by 4 sets of pins.

Once the pins are free from the onboard connectors, continue pulling straight up. There is a plastic guide that makes it necessary to pull the DM Module straight up and sliding it over the plastic guide.

With the DM Module removed and positioned, as shown in the photo below, remove the 2 screws located next to the USB and IEEE-1394 jacks and slide the DM circuitboard out of the metal case.

The next and most important task will be to carefully remove and replace the 1000µF, 16V, 85ºC capacitors with 1000µF, 35V, 105ºC capacitors.

CAUTION: Handle the DM circuitboard by the edges to avoid static damage. If you hold the DM with the components facing you and the external connectors on the left, you can find the capacitors in question in a cluster on the top right corner of the board.

Here is what a typical capacitor failure looks like:

The top of the capacitors shown above may only have a slight bulge, but they have indeed failed.

Desolder and replace all of the capacitors at the same time. When inserting the new capacitors, pay close attention to the polarity. The rear of the board has the positive terminal labeled and the longest lead is positive. The capacitor body has the negative terminal marked by dashes running down one side. All the capacitors have the same orientation:

Insert all four capacitors as close to the board as possible. The Panasonic capacitors are 4mm higher than the stock capacitors and there is very little extra room inside the shield. If properly installed, the DM Module case will fit over the DM board during re-assembly.

The picture below shows the underside of the DM board after the capacitors have been removed.

With the BAD capacitors removed, thread the new capacitor leads through the holes in the DM board. Ensure that you have the positive and negative leads on the capacitors threaded through the proper hole. With the capacitors in place, maintain pressure to firmly seat the capacitors against the circuit board and carefully solder each connection. It will help considerably if someone provides assistance during this very important soldering step.

Replace the original 1000uF, 16V, 85C capacitors with Radial Polarized 1000uF, 35V, 105C Capacitors.

If you are going to install a cooling fan, do so now. Once again, if you have used capacitors with a 105ºC temp rating, the cooling fan is not required or recommended. If installing the fan, stick some foam tape or adhesive weather stripping to each corner of the fan. This will minimize fan vibration noise and provide the fan with some clearance from the shield. The shield has a thin ridge that runs diagonally and prevents the fan from sitting flush, but the foam tape will allow the fan to straddle the ridge.

Place the fan on the pencil lines you drew earlier and secure two diagonal corners of the fan with small zip ties through holes in the shield. The zip ties are flat and their low profile will allow the shield to slide over the DM board without getting caught. You can run your fan from a 6v power supply to minimize noise, but test it first since not all PC fans will spin up with just 6v.

For individuals with the Mitsubishi WS-55859, WS-55909, WS-65869, WS-65909, WS-73909 or other Mitsubishi models with seven (7) of the 1000uF, 16V Capacitors on the DM Module instead of four (4), the two photos below may provide a visual orientation when looking at the DM Module circuit board. In this case replace all seven of the original capacitors with those having a rating of 1000uF, 35V, 105C.



Installation is the reverse of removal. The DM will slide down onto the four connectors at its base and there is a plastic vertical guide to ensure proper alignment of the board. Be careful not to bend the copper grounding springs that touch the connector end (rear) of the DM as it slides back into place. Carefully slide the DM shield back over the DM board and be careful not to snag the taller capacitors. Install the 6 screws that secure the DM in place. (Note that the two screws on the top of the DM shield are different from the other four). Plug the PWB-DEMOD card back in and ensure that its copper ground spring is touching the left edge of the DM shield.

Slowly slide the chassis back into the TV and be careful not to pinch any wires running to the front of the TV. The chassis should click as the release tabs lock into place. Secure the chassis with the long black screws. Reconnect all the wires you had removed and secure the excess slack back into the wire ties. Plug the USB and Firewire connectors back on the top of the DM and plug the cable from the front inputs back onto the top of the terminal board. Screw the grounding strap to the top of the doubler shield. Do not over tighten it as it is easy to break the threaded mounting plate on the shield. Install the DM rear cover and screws. Reconnect the coax antenna and digital audio cable back into the DM (if applicable).

Lastly, put the board slide back and remember that it could fall unless properly screwed in place. Double check all the connectors on the boards to be sure you haven't missed reconnecting anything. Install the rear cover of the TV and route the optional fan's power cable over the top of the rear cover to avoid pinching the cable.

Plug the TV back in and the front light should blink for about a minute as the DM boots. When the light has turned off, power up the TV and verify operation. If all goes well, your TV should boot in about one minute and there should be no more interference in the picture or OSD.

WS-65813 Advanced Troubleshooting

For those more technically inclined than most, you may enjoy the following. For the rest of you, IGNORE these checks.

  3. SHORT DETECT SHUTDOWN (PIN 13 OF IC700) CHECK FOR SHORTED D913 PART # 264P722010 AND OPEN Z901 PART # 283P039020 (Z905 AND Z900 M.

Also, if the 24 volt B+ and or B- is missing from the convergence ICs, change both convergence ICs as well as the defective pico fuse in the power supply. This is most likely not a quicky type of repair. These are a few of my notes on this set from me and a few of my buds in the buisness. Good Luck and let us know how you made out with this set.

A Word of Caution

To all of you who may be attempting the capacitor fix on their Mitsubishi a word of caution. Modern circuit boards are easily damaged by static electricity. Tech's in the industry use grounding wrist straps when handling these boards. Simply walking across a room with the circuit board in your hand could damage it. Try to ground yourself to the metal chassis of the tv when touching circuits. Even though the TV is not plugged in it will equalize your electrical potential. Handle the circuit board carefully by the edges when taking it to your workbench. Try to ground yourself while soldering on the board. I bring this up after reading some posts that stated after changing out the caps they ended up with new or different problems. That's why you see new circuit boards shipped in the anti static special plastic bags.

This DM board communicates with the sets internal microprocessor. That's why if the set is working properly, and you first plug the set in, the light blinks and then stops blinking. When it stops blinking, that means the DM has booted up and is all in sync with the microprocessor and ready to go. If the set does not stop blinking, that is an indication that the DM has not booted up and communicated with the microprocessor. This is the basic explanation, as there is a lot more to it than this:

  1. Could be poor solder connections, the power coming to the DM board from the main power supply could be bad.
  2. The EEPROM could be bad
  3. The power supply or sweep power supply could have bad connections or swollen capacitors.

The first thing to do is check all of the plugs, connectors, and connections to and around the DM board. Next would be to check for other large capacitors on other boards with swollen tops. The next thing would be to start checking power supply upon switch on. But, first do the diagnostic test as explained in the service manual. Maybe it will point you in the right direction.

If you have taken the time to follow these advance trouble shooting instructions and the Blinking Green Light continues to be a issue, a service tech may be required to complete the repair.

I hope that this Article has provided guidance and assisted in the repair of your Mitsubishi's "Blinking Green Light" issue.



Mitsubishi Service Manual: Mitsubishi Service Manual

If you require additional assistance or advice, feel free to send me a private message.

Contact information for Mitsubishi Customer Service:

9351 Jeronimo Rd.
Irvine, CA 92618
Mitsubishi Consumer Relations
Fax: 949.609.4900

President & CEO (July 2008)
President & CEO
Ikuo Morisada
Mitsubishi Electronics
9351 Jeronimo Rd.
Irvine, CA 92618



This article was very helpful when I replaced the 7 capacitors on my 55511. Now I have a code 22 that I need to fix. Any detailed articles about this issue that are as good as this one? STK393-110 and pico fuses?

I replaced 6 capacitors and friggin A it works. I am exstatic. TY so much.

I got the green blinking timer light too, no TV. I have the Mitsubishi WD-62525, Where can I find instructions on how too remove the necessary equipment to replace the capacitors.
Im fed up with this TV, so if this doesn't work its going to the scrap yard.
Any info given is really appreciated.

I read all the message boards that had to do with my model number. How I went about it was to type my model number and blinking green light of death. IO have never soldered or desoldered and was way intimidated. They sent me instructions, I followed them and I fixed my own TV. It was a great feeling. I was going to scrap my too. I figured for 20.00 bucks to give it a shot and it worked. I can send you what was sent to me if you want. What is your e-mail

My wd-62527 started acting up tonight. We were watching tv, had a very brief power outage and then the tv came back on but not all of the inputs showed on the input screen (some were grayed out). I turned it back off and now all I can get is blinking green power light.
It blinks for about a minute, goes out for for a bit then comes back. It just repeats that over and over.
Any ideas?

The Blinking Green Light Of Death can be fixed generally in one of two ways.

It is possible that the Demod Power supply has a bad capacitor or a few bad capacitors - but I have discovered in most cases when these capacitors are replaced the old ones test fine. You can open up your set and go into the Demod power supply and visually inspect the capacitors to see if they look they are failing. Sometimes the capacitor will blow out and sometimes they get swollen at the top - if you see either they need replacing. If you suspect there is a bad cap you need to order new capacitors - I advise going to Digikey Be sure to write down the value of the capactiors and even the make but you can replace with another brand so don't worry. Also - replace them all - I think there will be either (4) or (7) depending upon your model. Given the model of your set I would say that it is probably around 5 years old now? You can also try going to TV Repair Kits to see if they have the capacitor repair kit - - if you don't see it there you might want to try calling them

Unplug the TV for at least a week or more - preferably 10 days to 2 weeks maybe even longer. The reason for this is that there are capacitors in the set which hold a charge and will slowly release with time. Some of these capacitors given their size will take quite a long time to discharge.

So why is discharging the capacitors so important and why did this most likely happen? Basically after your power hit the data most likely became corrupt because the DM and the other processor got confused and lost sync and the green blinking light shows that the circuits are trying to boot up and get back into sync. Once the power is completely drained from the TV generally in most cases when you power back on the set it will come back on because both circuits can boot up and sync properly - takes about 75 seconds or so if I recall.

One other note you can manually discharge capacitors too but as I am not sure what your techincal level is you might not feel comfortable in doing this. Also this can be dangerous.

Assuming after this you got your set to work again I would strongly advise purchasing a UPS. You can get an APC UPS for around a $100 (a good one) - check your power supply rating (watts) on the back of the set and purchase a UPS which is capable of at least that number preferrably more. The UPS will filter your power and prevent this from happening again. I purchased an APC model, APC Back-UPS ES 8-Outlet 650VA, for my 55" TV after repairing my TV. I have had some power hits due to Thunderstorms since I have put the UPS in and my TV has never affected. Well worth the money!

***Warning about capacitors - capacitors can be dangerous if handled improperly. A charged high voltage power supply capacitor can be very dangerous and even fatal. Use caution and common sense when examining so as not to get injured.

i have a mitsubishi 60 dlp hd tv wd 60735 when i turn on tv the green light blinks for 20 to 30 seconds then turns on has done it for a few days what does that mean and is there a problem with tv i replaced projection lamp 2 months ago if this makes a difference

i did everything , and i dont have the problem solve, still have the blincking green ligth ,i change the four , and still same problem

bryanlandwehr -

20 to 30 seconds? Is it constant blinking or does it look like there might be a pattern? It could be the lamp and that the TV is giving a warning on the lamp via the blinking - I am not sure as I do not have the manual. I would download a manual and see if this might be the case... Also - you need to be very careful when handling and isntalling these lamps. improper installation/handling can drastically reduce the life of these lamps

Age of unit: About 7 years.
Rear Projection HD set, Mitsubishi WS-55511
Nature of problem: Blinking green light of death. Upon plugging the set back in after vacation, the green LED on the front of the set would blink continuously and the set would not turn on. I ordered the blinking green light kit from after seeing this link on a tech forum, suggesting the capacitors were bad on the DM board inside the DM module. The kit arrived within days of ordering. The online instuctions were very detailed and could be followed even by a layman such as myself. Very detailed with lots of photos. My DM module was simpler to remove than the instructions indicated. It simply slid out after about five cables were disconnected from other boards. Buckled everything up and plugged the set back in. The blinking light started as it always had. It should normally go out in about a minute after plugging in to wall. I really didn't hold out a lot of hope that it would go out....and went out! I pushed the power button and she fired right up! What a thrill! Including shipping, it cost me $45.90 to fix a set I paid about 3000 bucks for 7 years ago and was loathe to just throw away. I certainly wasn't going to pay nearly a thousand bucks to fix this set. It may be a little bulky, but the picture is beautiful as well as the sound system. You guys are great. A very reasonably priced gamble that worked. Watching a movie in HD while I type this, good to have my TV back after almost two weeks without it. Thanks!

I was able to get my Mitsubishi back on line after a power surge for under $100. Bought the parts from TV Repair and the extras from Radio Shack as suggested. I have absolutely no experience in soldering or electronics and was able to follow the directions and pictures. All in all it took about 2 hours to get rid of that blinking green light.

Don't forget to purchase a UPS once you have fixed your TV. This will help to safeguard against future power losses and spikes which the Mitsubishi sets, especially as they get holder, do not handle well...

Hi I have a wd-57733 that has the green blinking light of death when i turn it on it blinks continously after a min it i can hit the power button and it stops for a min. then starts blinking again i notice that the lamp is on but still have black screen any help with this would be greattly appriecated.

i did everything and still does not work ,i need help its a ws65615 mitsubishi,,

Great article, worked like a charm for me! Thank you to all who have put this together. I spent $10.70 to fix my TV!

I just fixed my Mitsubishi WS-55859. I got started using this article but found this: that was specific to my model. Lots of good detailed pictures. The WS-55859 has 7 capacitors and there is a link in the above article to Digikey which sells the one's you need. I also took my daughter board to a TV shop to solder... if you don't have the right tools and experience, I think it's easy to get a "cold" joint and the set won't work but the problem is still the capacitors. Mine worked first time and the solder job cost $25. So I fixed the set for $35 and about 4 hours of time, most of it reading. Thanks to everyone.

i did solded the 4 capasitors and my tv still blincking ,can sombody help me , i did it wrong ??? or something its a ws 65615

I have a ws 65615 mitsubishi and can somebody tell me how many capasitors there are on this tv that I have to change , I change four of them and still have the problem but I see another ones the same size ,do I change them ????? ..

I have a Mitsu mod. 55511 with the blinking green light. Performed the basic t-shooting to no avail. I now have the DM module on the table but cannot find any bad caps. (telltale bulged ends). Both chip fuses are good. What's next? Thanks

Check in your DM module to see if there is a small daughter board - called an E2P module. If there is - try pulling out the board and reconnecting, without the E2P board installed, to see if it works. I am not sure if the model set you have has this or not. Please note that it is entirely possible if the TV comes on the picture will not look all that great - it stores most of the settings. However if it is faulty and you remove it and it works then at least you know this needs to be replaced.

One other thing to check for - there are fuses on the DM power suppply board that don/t look like traditional fuses - more like a resistor. Test for contunitiy using a multimeter to be sure that these are not bad. Please note that a physical inspection on these components will not suffice they need to be tested. Be sure you have your set unplugged while doing any of this work!

I'd add to zimzim's comment that the caps need not look bad to be bad. I removed and checked with a cap meter when I did my tv and most were almost within spec at room temp. I replaced them anyway and the tv worked afterwards. In the past 5
years I have fixed a furnace board, a roku set box and the tv all by replacing some electrolytics.

good point on the caps as mikestaub mentioned - also caps with age develop ESR, electro static resistance, as they age. They are also rated for a number of hours - generally longer lasting ones are around 3000 hours - which in your TV set is not that long of a time. Think about how many hours a day your set is on, then multiply that by the number of days and years... Also - what kind of power has been feeding these caps??? In most cases I see the issue with the BGLOD after a power hit - older caps are not nearly as tolerant as newer ones nad I am sure they have experienced a number of surges and dropouts in voltage over their lifetime... Electolytic caps are cheap - so replacing them is a small gamble if you will. Certainly the cost of a serviceman just to inspect will cost more...

Don't forget, the DM module is always on, so its 8760 hours/year for those unless you unplug or power strip it. I also have a hunch that if the electrolytics are used in a switching supply, which I am pretty sure the DM module uses, the life is reduced even more. That is just a hunch, but my roku P/S also needed some replaced and it is a switcher. I have electronics that are decades old that still work fine using the conventional P/S approach. Maybe it is the ESR that hits a switcher harder at 50 or 100KHz more than filtering 60 cycles.

Well....not so "Lucky" On this end...went to Radio shack to get the .99 cent 7.50 with TAX ...No Biggie...Ends up..I asked a repair guy what was up ..Then I took the SawZall to it & didnt look back!
Good luck to everyone!

"Flat screen for Christmas!"

Ordered and received the caps, (7 in my unit, Mitsu. mod. 55511). Installed them today, they are both longer and larger in diameter, making it a bit crowded on the board. Plugged the unit in, watched the light blink for about 60 secs, then go out. Powered up and wa-la! Houston, we have lift off! Cost was $10.14 and about three hours total. Now I have a big screen for the basement. Just have to get it down there somehow. Thanks for the info, guys.

Short Circuit - Congrats on the fix!

The difference in size is probably because the ones you got are a higher voltage or a different manufacturer I am guessing - which is fine...

Be sure to purchase a UPS now, APC makes a good one, this will help avoid this and other issues from happenening in the future due to power hits and spikes. In case you are not sure what model to get look at the back of your TV and it should tell you the power consumption of the TV - possibly 300W or so depending upon make and model. Get a UPS that will supply at least that number - preferabbly higher. APC makes a model BE750G which has a 450W output. This is a wise investment and a must have for these TVs in my opinion...

Hey all, am halfway in to the fix on my WS-55613 and I can not get the bottom chassis to slide out. It feels as though it's still screwed in although I've unscrewed the one screw the service manual says needs to come out. I press the tabs and it just sits. Any advice?

Can someone tell me how to get the repair directions for the blinking green light of death for the Mitsu WD-52725? Thanks.

JonM said: Hey all, am halfway in to the fix on my WS-55613 and I can not get the bottom chassis to slide out. It feels as though it's still screwed in although I've unscrewed the one screw the service manual says needs to come out. I press the tabs and it just sits. Any advice?

Managed to get the chassis out with more force than I thought was needed! caps appear to be undamaged. Should I just go ahead and replace them anyway? 

What would you folks replace next, power supply, etc.? Any thoughts?

My set just won't turn on. LED blinks, then stops blinking, and won't power up. 


Thanks in advance. 

Just curious did you check to see if the blinking was random or if there is a pattern perhaps? If there is a pattern it can help to tell you what the problem is.

Just curious did you have a power outage prior to the GBLOD? If not, and even if you did, try disconnecting the cable harness between the front panel display and the board. The TV can function with this disconnected but you will not be able to use the buttons on the front panel as they will not work - which is OK because you cna use the remote to turn on and off the TV. You would need to wait about minute and a half for the set to boot up, assuming it does and then try pressing the power button on the remote. If this works then one of your buttons on the front panel is the issue. This sometimes happens...

If that doesn't work - then the next step is to go inside the DM Module and see if you see a daughter board called an E2P module. I can't recall if your set has this or not but if it does then you can try removing this board and powering the set up without it. If it powers back on the picture might not look so great but at least then you would have identified the problem.

Also check the main boards for the PICO fuses to make sure they aren't open. They might look OK but they might not be working. You can use a multimeter to test for coninuity...

Just replacing capactiors at random on the boards might not and poassibly will not fix your issue if the issue isn't related to this. You should, if you haven't done so already, get the manual and verify that you have the correct voltages on the DM and at other test points which the manual will tell you. I wouldn't start by replacing anything, with the exception of the capacitors on the DM power supply (either 4 or 7 depending upon model) as they are known to have issues.

sknee said: Can someone tell me how to get the repair directions for the blinking green light of death for the Mitsu WD-52725? Thanks.

I found them here - TV Repair

Hey, thank you to the expert(s) that's answering these posts... I really hope you can help us... We just replaced the 4 capacitors on the DM module of our WS-65813 and still have the same blinking green light. We can't even get an error code, it just keeps blinking constantly and there's no pattern to it. I'm hating Mitsubishi right now. Question: the instructions we have say to push "menu" and "input" and the same time to get an error code to come up- we don't have an "input" button. Any ideas on what 2 buttons might work? We have "Device", "AV Reset" "Menu" "Format" "Channel Up/Down" and "Volume Up/Down".

I have a handful of the Panasonic EEU-EB1V102 caps left over from another project. They are the ones listed in this thread for the four capacitor DM modules. They WILL NOT work on the seven capacitor DM modules as there's only 23mm of room between the board and cover.

I'd be happy to send four or all to someone if they want to pay the shipping, just pm me.



I'm not sure but it might be Device and Menu - it will take some time holding the butons down together. Just curious did anything happen prior to this - such as a power outage or maybe after you pressed the power button?

Hello all!

So I have a Mitsubishi ws-b55 that has the "Blinking light." I replaced the 7 caps on the DM Board with the high temp caps... Still no luck. I went digging around a little more and found the 125V 4A surface mount fuse was bad. Replaced that today, and still no luck. What should my next step be? Thanks in advance for any help.


I have a Mitsubishi WS 55411 55in model when i turn TV on it shuts off in 1 second I hear a click in back of set. I checked all fuses and they look good what could it be please help.


hi, this is very informative.
but my problem is my mitsubishi ws-65813, which when i turn on it turns off right away. i don't see blinking green light.
I have the same problem as rockfish above me, the only difference is my T.V. is 65 inches.
i would appreciate your help.

Rockfish & Hafeez,

Sounds as though you both have a "Short Circuit Protect" issue.

At least of one the Pico Fuses has failed. There are two fuses located on the middle board. Check the small lettering on the board and locate F9A04 & F9A05. If possible, check them with a voltmeter and replace If one or both are dead. If unable to check with a voltmeter, remove the board, de-solder BOTH pico fuses and replace them with new ones. You may order the fuses from MCM @ 1800-543-4330. You may also find them locally at Radio Shack. The fuses are rated at 5 Amp.

The bigger issue is that a "Convergence" issue is developing with both Mitsubishi's units.


dear speed:
could you please help me locate those fuses. may be a picture or something.

thank you.


The two pico fuses, FA905 & FA905 are located on the PCB-Power Circuit Board.

Do you have the WS-65813 Service Manual.


hi, speed

sorry, I don't have the manual


Obtain the WS-65813 Service Manual from:



Thanks for you thread here, very helpful info. I fixed the initial problem on my Mitsubishi WS-65611 following your instructions, thank you. I had to replace 7 capasitors on the DM board. After completing this the TV has worked fine for a week, but now I am experiencing issues with ghosting images and color separations. Is this the convergence issue? Please advise.


Run a "LED Error Code" check. I expect you will get a Code 22 indicating a Short Protect Circuit fault; Is so, this generally indicates a Convergence issue.



I ran the LED check and it came up error code 21, X-ray protect. Do you have any suggestions.

dear speed

my mitsubisi tv's model# is WS65857, I checked the error code and it is 22.
which according to the manual of ws65611 is shor circuit protect,so according to your sugestion i still need to change the pico fuses FA904 and FA905 on the PCB-power board.
please help me out to find the diagrams for this model.
thank you.


By way of background:

The X-Ray Protect circuit monitors:
* Excessive High Voltage
* Excess CRT Beam Current
* Excess HV Circuit Current

The X-Ray line is normally High. If any of the monitored sources exceeds its' specific reference, the X-Ray line is pulled Low, shutting Off the TV. If X-Ray protect shuts the TV Off, pressing the Power button will turn the TV back On ( it will shut Off again if the problem still exist).

Note: Normally a X-Ray Protect (Code 21) issue results in the immediate "shut down" of the TV. The TV may be turned on again by cycling the power button Off then On; however, will again turn Off, if the fault continues. I am suspect with the Error Code 21?

Possible issues: Power Supply Fault, Sweep Circuit Problem, Doubler Board Fault or a leaking CRT. You may have bad capacitors in the power supply or the sweep power supply. Locate the Doubler Board and wiggle it several times, then check to see if the picture clears.
Based upon your descriptive comments, you may have a CRT coolant leak.

CRT coolant is a colorless, ethylene glycol and water formula (similar to anti-freeze used in cars). It?s slightly viscous and feels like light oil in consistency. Most of the time, there?s only a small amount of coolant that leaks, just a drop at a time on to the board. It's not always easy to see evidence of a leak. Sometimes you can see what appears to be oil stains on the particle board under and around the main chassis.

Damage to the board occurs because of the design of surface mount circuit boards. There are hundreds of components, very densely populated on these boards. The coolant is conductive and corrosive. It gets between components and the circuit board and literally eats up the traces.

Because of the random nature of damage caused by this kind of failure, there can be many different symptoms and the symptoms can change as the the coolant evaporates or migrates around on the board. If this is your problem, It may be necessary to replace both the board and the CRT; a very costly repair.

X-Ray Protect issues with the Mitsubishi are rather rare, however, they do occur.

Perform the Error Code check once again and confirm a Code 21. Check closely for signs of CRT Coolant leakage and associated circuit board damage. Inspect for puffy capacitors on the power supply and sweep circuit boards.




Download the WS-65857 Service Manual from:

Also, read the article "Replacing Convergence IC's on A Mitsubishi TV:

Mitsubishi Convergence IC's:

You may want to initially replace only the Pico fuses and see if this fixes the issue, however, most times the IC's have also failed and Pico fuse replacement will simply be a temporary fix, at best.

For ease of repair, I recommend you go to: and order the convergence repair kit for the WS-65857. The repair kit comes with detailed instructions with easy to follow pictorial directions and free live on-Line tech assistance in case you run into a problem.

If you prefer to purchase the parts separately and do the repair without using TVRepairKits, follow the instructions provided above "Replacing COnvergence IC's on a Mitsubishi TV.





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