mitsubishi wd52525

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i replaced the 4 that are bad

i replaced the 4 that are bad for failing the 1000uf ones, and someone previous to me replaced the two 3300uf ones and they still check good and look good too.

Have you seen this document
yes, i went by this document

yes, i went by this document and they were all replaced, 12 1000uf 25v 105 degrees, the bigger ones were replaced with 3300uf 25v 105 degrees

that manual is extremely

that manual is extremely detailed thanks, what do you think is causing no power to go out to the fans? i cant find the fuse i was talking about though f9a06, just wondering about it, itgag s the only one reading right so i was just going to see where it runs. i can tell that most of the board is not recieving power as almost all the caps on the board have no voltage stored yet even the new ones i put on, but a couple of bigger ones do have 67v each in them, c9a26 and c9a27, these are the only ones that voltage stored.

found out my surge protector

found out my surge protector was causing this problem, but now i get code 44 with a solid red light after it tries to turn on, and i have checked my dvi connection but i will keep looking for something maybe a bent pin like the other person i read about. what else would this code pertain to, i cant get a lot of info on this code other than it being the dvi cable.

That would suggest fmt board

That would suggest fmt board but I think you said you replaced the caps on it didn't you? Other than a bent pin on the dvi connector or a plug plugged into the wrong board not connected or the polarity is wrong on one of the caps I'm not shure.

And the fuse your were

And the fuse your were looking at is on the last page to the right of the transformer in red rectangle.

thanks for answering back

thanks for answering back between that post and just now, i took it apart and cleaned the ribbon cables and put it back together and now it tried to turn on in a sense it done its blinking thing when plugged in but when i pushed power button it stayed green and that was it now screen i dont know about the sound it doesnt have any inputs right now, and error code 12, which is nothing is wrong but obviously something still isnt quite right, any thoughts on this one now, thanks

Are all of the fans coming on

Are all of the fans coming on? Maybe a bulb or ballast

I will take a look at it in

I will take a look at it in the morning I am going to double check my connections to the ballast considering how hard they are to get to. At least maybe I am heading in the right direction with this tv, but it made a big difference to clean the ribbon cables with alcohol, Ty so far again.

ok, i found a problem that is

ok, i found a problem that is my fault have double checking i didnt see but after triple checking i found 2 capacitors that were put on wrong, i am going to replace them with new ones, but i was wondering does that mean those caps are bad now because i soldered them wrong i was going to save them but if you think they will bad now i will trash them, thanks i will update once done with resoldering and retesting

ok so i testing all the fuses

ok so i testing all the fuses i could think of,i think something is pretty messed up on my power board, there was never any power going to the new caps so i guess thats why they didnt blow since they were backwards. anyways, here are the fuse readings:
F9A01: 138v in 138v out
F9A02: 0v in 0v out
F9A03: 0v in 0v out
F9A04: 0v in 0v out
F9A05: 0v in 0v out
F9A06: 12v in 0v out, this is the one that keeps ohming bad
F9A07: 0v in 0v out
F9A08: 12v in 12v out
F9A09: 0v in 0v out
almost no power on whole board, and one bad fuse, i found a power board on ebay but its a $65, do you think this one can be fixed,i dont really want to put to much in this tv since i still wouldnt know for sure that would fix it, thanks
also there is no power going to the ballast fan or the fan that mounts on the back of the tv, there is no power going to te J9 plug on the tv, the power supply isnt powering out to anything but a couplde of its plugs on the left top side of the board.

F9A02 03 04 05 is your

F9A02 03 04 05 is your standby power supply it should be powered on all the time if your not getting power to it you should look at your standby voltage regulator, standby power transformer, and the main fuse for the plug F9D00. Check the fuse first if it's good then you should test the diode rectifier if it's good you may be best to buy a known good board from the net or have yours sent to to have it rebuilt.

yeah the tube fuse is fine, i

yeah the tube fuse is fine, i checked first thing i just forgot to mention it, i see about the other parts you were talking about, thanks, i dont understand, it turned on before i took it apart, the person said it just wouldnt stay on past an hour and then would shut down.

i am not really going to

i am not really going to complain about mitsubishi to much, some have had bad luck but my wd52525 i have had it for about 2 or 3 yrs now no problems till now(pink purplish line), and 1 bulb and it still has its factory seal, so it must have been one rare non dud, lol, after 6 yrs of life plus being shipped from california to nc when i bought id say its a keeper until it just wont fix, lol

i was wondering if i take the

i was wondering if i take the power supply from my wd52525 and test it in the wd52725 would there be anything that would make my good power supply go bad. i have been thinking about trying this so that i know for sure if the power supply is the only problem in my 52725 but i dont want to take a chance on messing up my power supply from my 52525, thanks

They are both chassis v26

They are both chassis v26 there shouldn't be a problem with it. But if the problem is on another board on the tv it could possibly short something on the new board.

yeah thats the possibility i

yeah thats the possibility i am not ready to handle i am currently using my 52525 but it needs repair, it has purplish pink vertical lines off and on, do you think this is probably the caps on it, it still has its factory warranty seal

Most likely the ones on the

Most likely the ones on the fmt board or some surface mounted ones.

ok, got tired of messing with

ok, got tired of messing with the ps on the 52725 i think i fubared it anyways something arced when i was testing stuff, but the ps out of the 52525 done the trick, i have a beautiful pic other than a little bit of wavyness, do you know what might be causing that, now all i need is a power supply to replace the one i borrowed and i will have two good working tvs. thanks for all your help, i was still have problems after swapping the ps it would just sit there and blink and then turn green like turning on but no pic so i took it all back apart and reseated the ribbon cables and then it was fine, but i also had to hold down the reset button for 10 sec or wouldve just kept blinking. anyways that was just info for people trying to fix theirs, but i would like to know what causes the wavyness, thanks again for all your help Evil

well i am back, the tv played

well i am back, the tv played perfect for a few hours aside from slight waviness, and then it just shut down like i had told it to, no code just blinking green light but would not reset, it just keeps the green light. so i put the ps back in my other tv and now the other tv is working, but i still have a bunch of pink crap going on with it after cap replacement. now i am going to attempt to make one good tv, but which board causes the pink lines and which one caused the slight waviness on the other one, i need to try to eliminate the bad board and make a good chassis, thanks again for your help

This set also has trouble

This set also has trouble with the surface mounted capacitors on the fmt. You may be better off sending it to pts corp .com or anyone who rebuilds/services them.

i dont have the money to let

i dont have the money to let someone else fix it, and i dont have the money to buy a tv that is why i am trying it myself. i found that i am about 99% that both dm boards need to be redone, what all is involved in this, one plays rather well just a little waviness which is probably a cap but this board causes the tv to shut down on its own, what would that be caused by, the other dm board has jumpy pinkish purple lines on the screen very annoying, how do i diagnose which caps are bad wether it be service mount or the the other kind, i really want to fix one dm board and have a good tv, i know these are faulty tvs but i would like to try to make one last a while longer, thanks

i dont know if anyone has

i dont know if anyone has ever tried this or not, but i took the dm board that was shutting down on its own and took flux to help fix bad solder joints and took a hot air gun and performed a reflow on the whole board but mainly concentrated on the area where a processor has a heatsink attached to it being careful not to overkill anything caps get sensitive to direct heat, i learned that from experience in the past. anyways, the tv hasnt shut down yet and i played it for almost 4 hours straight before shutting it down and now i have it back on and its been playing for about 1 1/2 hours so far, it wouldnt even play through a whole movie before, so it could have been a bad solder connection on the processor chip. still have a very slight waviness but that could be due to the caps on the power supply almost all the caps are very slightly bulged so i still have to replace those but i was just trying to get the tv to stay on first, so i hope this info helps so far.

I don't think the problem is

I don't think the problem is bad solder and heat can change the values of components. Glad to hear its staying on. The only way you can check capacitors is with an esr meter which cost about the same as it would to have your board rebuilt, or buy a rebuilt one.

Check the screen resolution

Check the screen resolution of the computer output. This depends alot on the computer.

I have a MITS WD52525. THere

I have a MITS WD52525. THere was a pop and the tv turned off with the lamp light showing. I replaced the lamp and now the tv emits a tone for 20-30 secons, stops, and does it again. The tv then turns off. No picture ever but there was sound for a short time. Anybody know what the issue would be and how to fix it?



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