Mitsubishi WD-62525

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dsy29
Mitsubishi WD-62525

Hi all!

I want to thank all of you for helping me keep my projection TVs running long past their expected lifespan! Your help has been invaluable!

I find myself, again, in need of your assistance.

I have a Mitsu WD-62525 that is having video problems. I got it about a year ago; at that time, it had the BGLOD issue. I replaced all the caps and the TV worked great for about 6 months. The only issue was after a power loss. I had to splice a switch into the orange wire running from the signal board to the FMT board. When the TV is unplugged, I have to turn that switch off, turn the TV on, wait for the light to stop flashing, and then turn the TV on normally.

Eventually, some lines of interference crept into the PC input. They looked like small lines of static, running horizontally across the screen. Since I rarely used the PC input, this was no big deal.

Now, the interference is on every input. It is so pronounced that the TV is unwatchable. The interference resembles a scrambled or blocked channel on an old UHF set. The picture behind the interference looks sharp and clear, and the image is not rolling or flipping, it just has jagged lines of static flashing randomly across it. The strange part is, all of the interference disappears on the HD channels. I get about 10 HD channels over my regular cable, and they are totally interference free with a great picture. If I switch to a standard channel, the interference immediately returns.

I've got the TV apart again, and I've found two more bad caps on the PWR board. I'll replace them as soon as mouser gets my parts here. My concern is whether this interference would be caused solely by bad caps? I've been reading about voltage regulator issues with this set, but I'm not sure where to start testing/replacing? It's a great set with a great picture, and I'm not quite ready to give up on it yet! Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated!

 

Thanks for all you do!

[email protected]

dsy29
New caps are here, going to

New caps are here, going to put this thing together tomorrow. Any advice between now and then would be great!

Thanks!

evil
Positive to positive and

Positive to positive and negative to negtive. Keep us in the loop on what happens.

dsy29
Alright,

Alright,
Replaced 7 caps on 3 different boards. Everything else looked ok (for what that's worth). Got it all put back together and plugged in.

So. The chassis fan spins and the relay clicks. The green light flashes as though it's booting. There is a low rumbling noise from the speakers and in anywhere from 5 to 45 seconds, the relay clicks again and everything shuts off. It won't stay running long enough to pull error codes, so no dice on the easy troubleshooting.

Double and triple checked all connections, no problems there. Not sure where to go from here.

Any advice other than chucking it in a dumpster? :)

ETA: If it makes any difference, relay K9A10 on the PWB is vibrating at the same frequency as the sound coming from the speakers. It's also the relay that clicks on and off at irregular intervals.

Bad voltage regulator?

evil
Push and hold device and menu

Push and hold device and menu button for five seconds or more and tell me what lights blink and how many times they blink after it shuts itself off.

dsy29
It's cycling on and off so

It's cycling on and off so randomly that I haven't been able to get any codes to display. The power light blinks like it's booting up normally, but then the relay clicks and the power turns off and on, and off and on.... ad nauseum :/

dsy29
Ok, the Mits is still cycling

Ok, the Mits is still cycling on and off too fast to get any codes. I disconnected everything from the power board and plugged it in by itself. The relays stopped clicking on and off and I was able to isolate the ticking sound I heard earlier.

The transformer at T9A10 is constantly ticking. I tested all of the pins and got these results:

1:N/A 2: 1.4mv 3: 1.4mv 4: 40-300mv 5: 138V 6: 138V 7: 20-400mv 8: 138V 9: 138V 10: 0 11: 0 12: .1mv 13: .1mv 14: 0 15: 0 16: 13.9-14.8V 17: 13.9-14.8V 18: 13.9-14.8V

and the voltage regulator supplying the transformer (IC9A10):

1: 139.5V 2: N/A 3: 0-2mv 4: 8-10V 5: 95-105mv 6: 3-6V 7: 4-8mv

I also checked all of the test points:

TP3.3V: .3mv TP5V: 0 TP30VS: 25V TP6VS: 7.15V TP15V: 28V TP-15V: .6V TP12VS: 12.3V

So, it seems like I definitely have some voltage issues. I can't seem to source a transformer (SRW39LEC-U09V TDK X 46), so I'm really hoping it's the VR. Any suggestions?

 

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