First off let me just say thanks to all the Tech guys who have helped people out on this form over the years, your help has been most appreciated.
I'm repairing a Mitsubishi WS-65869 rear projection TV for customer. The customer only brought me the bottom part of the TV and not the top part with the screen and mirrow so as to make transport easier. I'll take it back to their place and then set it up there.
Anyway it had the common problem of the green blinking timer light and no power up. This is the second such TV I've repaired like this so I knew what it needed.
So I replaced the seven bad capacitors in the DM module and unit powered up. Looking down in the 3 lighted lenses everything looked okay for about the first 5 minutes. But then the red CRT went out and the green and blue stayed on. Every time you power it down and back on the red CRT goes out after a few minutes.
Also when the red CRT is on for a short time that it is, when I look down in the lens I can see the menu asking for the clock to be set and so forth. It looks okay for the most but it kind of looks like there may be a vertical height problem? But then again it might be okay I'm not sure, remember I wrote that I don't have the top part and screen, so it's a little hard to tell what I'm looking at? Remember I can see the clock menu find (it's just backwards).
I've tested around on the red CRT board and found nothing wrong. I've repaired a many TVs over the years but always felt like a novice at it as audio and tape decks, VCRs, CD-DVDs, reel to reel, multitrack, obsolete and obscure formats has always been my specialty.
Any suggestions anybody?
And again much thanks in advance
It was just the screensaver kicking in and only on the red CRT first.
All I had to do was just hit a button to bring up any OSD. I had no input signal at the time because I thought with no screen there was no reason to then.
I just wish now that I had hit a button before. Oh well?
I still think they'd mute all three together. From what I understand it's usually the green CRT that gets weak first, while the red CRT usually is the last one to be replaced. If they'd mute just any single one CRT first, I figured it would be the green one would it not?
Guess it depends on what color they wanted the vol to be.Glad you figured it out and let us know.I can delete this post if you want me to?