My 65" rear projection TV will not power on at all. It does not have a blinking green light or any light at all. It seemed to work just fine one day then it would not power on the next morning. I have looked for popped caps but can't seem to find any. The power board looks like it was getting hot in a couple of places (board looks like it turned brown from heat). Is there some test points I can check with a digital multi meter? And what should the test values be?
I also have the same TV and have the same problem. I click "ON" and the power lamp illuminates for 2 seconds then turns off. I clicked the input and menu to see the display message and it was an error code 22, which could be anything from what I am finding out from service technicians I have called. One guy says DM board, one guy says capacitors, another says the lamp. So my question is if you have had this fixed, what was it and what is the cost. I don't want to spend $500 on a fix if it is something simple (I could buy a new TV for that). I mean the capacitors are $2 a piece, so doing myself is an $8 fix, the lamp around $200, the DM board, this is too pricey to fix as they cost as much as a new TV. Any help would be greatly appreciated...
First thing i would look at is the fuse.
Evil, Lots of those on this board. I figured if there are some points where I can take a voltage reading or resistance check I may be able to narrow it down to a specific one. The removable glass one is good, got power past it.
Glenn, I have not got it fixed. This TV doesn't have a DM board. It has 3 crt bulbs and Caps everywhere. I think I am going to start by replacing all of the board mounted fuses. If that don't work I may put it on the curb! Large flat screens are getting cheaper and cheaper.
Doesn't seem to be much knowledge on this unit out there or they just ain't sharing info!
What is the chasis # for this set i cant find any manual for that model # here, ill check my other sources for a service manual.
when you find the chassis # take a look at this http://www.techlore.com/download/25885/Mitsubishi-repair-tips-all-multib... and see if any applies to you
It should be V24 i think i found the manual but it will take me a couple of days to get it after i request it,if i get it at all....[I did see a service manual in the service manual section of this site that was for chassis v24 you should be able to use it for reference]Never mind it was for v26 sorry ill request the manual youll have to wait.
Chassis is a v24 and I have all of the manuals. I can remove and replace parts without any problem. I don't have a problem locating things on the boards. I'm just not sure where to test and what I should be looking for on my digital multi-meter, and that is the extent of my test equipment. I'm pretty sure the problem is in the power board.
I would say most likely its a Main PCB issue,if you already have the Service Manual look up the standby power supply circuit in the schematic,that would be the first thing i would check.
Hey Evil, I have been out of pocket on this tv. Back at it now and from your last post I searched the PCB schematic for a standby power supply with no luck. What else could they have named it? On the PCB you have the Flyback Transformer and it has 3 high tension leads that go to the CRT's. There is also a 4th wire that is brown and smaller. I can't seem to get that wire disconnected. I have tried the same procedure the manual instructs for removing the high tension leads to no avail. Do you have any insight on that lead?
PCB= Printed Circuit Board,On page 22 of the Service Manual it says that if your not getting any blinks or lights then the power is not getting to the Microprocessor,possible causes= Microprocessor is bad,something impeding voltage to the microprocessor like a diode,resistor,regulator,Integrated Circuit= IC,fuse.On page 59 it shows the stand by power regulator= STBY REG IC9 A20 if you trace pin 5 back to the beginning to pin 1 and 3 its either where power comes into the MAIN PCB or the plug im not sure but start there and work your way forward ensure that fuse f9D00 is good and that you are getting power past it then move on to diode D9A22 then resistor 9A20 and so on and so forth.
Good Luck with the repair
Hey Evil, I think you nailed it with that resistor. I have 118v on the power side of diode D9A22 and 61v on the other side. I have 61v on the power side of R9A20 resistor and 0v on the other side. I have 0v on the pin #5 of the IC9A20. I am not a electronics tech but what I gather is that the resistor R9A20 is the problem. Does that make sense to you?
According to page 51 of the manual its a R-metal-P 3 watt {82-j? maybe 82 ohms/not sure what the j stands for}A 3 watt resistor should be able to pass quite a bit of voltage through it,since it's not it would suggest to me that we need to investagate it a little further. The rsistor may be a millitary grade resistor, hard to come by and to understand. Does it have anything wrote on it or bands around it? You will want to set your DMM to ohms and make sure your leads are in the right port to read ohms. Turn the power off/unplug it then test the resistor itself start with ohm then go to k ohms then m ohms if you dont get a reading with m ohms its definitely bad.
I'm getting nothing on any of the settings. The resistor has tall blade legs and is green in color like it was dipped in the manufacturing process and it has some text on it. 3 W 82 ohms J You think the Radio Shack might have it
I have to ask,when you had your meter set on ohms k&m did you touch your probes together to make shure you were set up right before you tested your resistor?I dont even think my Radio Shack sells metal film resistors it would be a long shot but you need to replace it with exactly what came out of it,due to fire hazards and what not.You should find someone with more experiance than me and ask them about the resistor maybe even ask about a suitable replacement.Maybe your local tv repair shop will offer advice with out charge if your lucky and may even offer a replacement part for cost.
I have the exact same thing going on--where do I get the manual?
I've been waiting a week for another manual to be posted, apparently the admin is on vacation agin,as soon as he gets back and verifies my other one i'll post this one and leave a link here for the download.
Evil, I did test the DMM before I tested the resistor. I also removed it from the board and tested it and got nothing that way either. Use the address below and i'll send you the manual you are waiting for.
Pete2631 drop me a email at [email protected] and I will send them to you in the PDF format.
I have ordered the Resistor from TYCO matched up the specs the best I could to PN ROX3SJ82R through Allied Electronics stock# 437-0796. Not very expensive so I will see what I get in a week or so.
You can download the manual here http://www.techlore.com/download/30963/Mitsubishi-v24-chassis/
Hey Evil, In the pic the oem in on the right and the new one is on the left. They both have the same electronic specs but they are deff different. Let me know what you think, I have not installed yet.
As long as they are the same specs I dont see what it would hurt,as long as its on a cgfi plug-LOL,The original resistor looks like a Non polarity capacitor... This is why I suggested taking it to a repair shop.Hope it works,good luck.
Thank you everyone who has responded, I really appreciate your help and input!!!
I have a mitsu ws-65315 chassis #24. Turned on the Tv one night, came on fine, pressed the first # on the cable box to change channel, tv shut off, never to power up again. pulled out code 2-2. replaced convergence ic's with sanyo replacements, replaced fuses f9a02, f9ao3,f9a04, and f9a05, along with all 12 ic resistors 2w 3.9ohm. Turn on tv, I hear a ticking on the power board near the front of the set(tv screen end) then after 5 secs shuts off. still getting code 2-2....HELP please. I have no electronic testing equiptment, and am pretty new to this. I replaced all those parts to be thorough, and still nothing. Any info would be appreciated. thanks-Randy