Mitsubishi wd62825 solid red lamp indicator

I have a Mitsubishi WD62825G DLP TV.   There are a lot of blinking green light problems but it was hard for me to find one like mine.  The picture and sound disappeared.  

Now unplug and plug the AC power and turn on power to TV, green blinking light for timer/power indicator for while and then goes off (this is normal).  Hit the remote power on button and the yellow solid lamp indicator is lit while the power/timer light is solid green (TV is trying to power on).  During this time, the lamp bulb would turn on for about 10 seconds and then turn off.  Then the TV power shuts off (probably because it has no signal?)  and the solid red light lamp indicator is on.  Can’t turn the TV back on with the remote unless unplug the AC power cord  to get rid of the red light indicator.

Did the Error Code check and got 34 which is Lamp abnormality but lamp already had been changed.  According to the manual, check for Lamp Ballast (which is the Lamp power supply) or the Electrical Chassis.  Checked the power going into the Lamp Ballast which should be 340 VDC.  I read 330 VDC.   If correct, the manual said that the problem is suspected to be in the Lamp Ballast.  If voltage is bad, suspect the POWER PWB in the Electrical Chassis. 

Upshot is that I got 330 volts going into the Lamp Ballast which I thought was close enough within tolerance but problem was not in the Lamp Ballast PWB.  It was in the Power PWB where there were two bulging electrolytic capacitors, the 3300uF, 10 volt, 105degC ones.  TV is now fine after I replaced those two capacitors that cost $1.60 at the specialized electronics store. 

Thank you Techlore for your site.  Although I did not see anything quite like my problem discussed here, there were enough clues that encouraged me to keep going.  Hope this helps anyone else that has the solid red lamp indicator problem.

(Update 9-4-10) Well, I posted the above based on my own TV but since have worked with two other guys with the same TV symptoms.  Final Solution was that one had to replace two electrolytic caps on the Power PWB like I did to get his TV working again but the 2nd guy had nothing wrong with the Power PWB.  His TV solution did turn out to be the Lamp Ballast PWB.