Hi, Larry:
I have a Mitsubishi WD52525 DLP projector TV. It is only used to watch movies in our basement home theatre, and if I had to guess, has less than 2000 hours on it. We have had it for about 7 years.
I watched a movie on it Friday nite and had no issues. When I turned it on last nite, it initially didn't turn on (power up). So, figuring my Harmony remote screwed up as usual and the TV didn't "see" the power toggle signal from the remote, manually pressed the power button. The TV powered up, ran for about 30 secs, and then shut down with the LAMP LED on solid red. No picture had been visible during this time. Hmm..., said I. Tried it again. This time, there was a picture of various wild colors flickering constantly across the screen. I turned the power off by pressing the switch, and the light blinked to let me know that the bulb was in cooldown for about a minute.
I disconnected the main power from the unit for about two minutes and restarted the unit. Same thing, and after about 30 secs, the set powered down and the LAMP LED went solid red again.
Repeated this whole procedure again, hoping that something was just out of sync and the problem would fix itself. Wrong. But, this time the set stayed on and the LAMP LED never came on. That is the operational status of the unit as of right now.
I started reading the various threads on this site, and decided to look at the boards. Pulled the chassis module out of the case, removed the shielding, and pulled apart all five boards. I see one issue, on the power board, there is one capacictor that looks like the top has started to bulge. My plan is to break out my meter and start checking things, but have no idea where to start.
Can you please help me? Please send any and all info to my email at [email protected]. Meanwhile, I'll keep looking for issues.
Thanks.
Kev
Updated:
All of the fuses on the power board are OK, including the little SMT guys. Capacitor C9A03 meters open on the board, the other two 1000umf cans are ok, or at least meter a value. The two bulging caps, C9A37 and C9A38, will build a charge with the meter on them, so they are probably ok, right?
Thanks!
Kev
Another update -
Took all of the boards back out of the chassis. Only the four caps on the FT board look a little swollen other than the caps on the main board. As best as I can tell, all of the caps on the FT and DM boards are OK using a meter. Going to focus on just the POWER board for now. I left the SIGNAL board in the chassis - too much carp to take off and the board looks OK.
Is there anyone out there, or is it just me?
Kev
Always good to see there's so much help available... Wow.
I fixed this steaming mound of carp, and it's back up and running. I replaced 15 capacitors, 7 of which were confirmed bad, and changed the other 8 just to be safe. Parts came from Digi-Key. Cost to fix everything including a second full set of caps was $40.
I didn't have the green blinking light problem, so I guess that's why Larry never responded to this post.
I would like to spent the plane fare and fly out to CA just to tell those guys at Mitsubishi just what I think.
Enjoy, people. D^mn me if I'll ever buy another Mitsubishi POS.
Happy New Year.
Kev
I fixed this steaming mound of carp, and it's back up and running. I replaced 15 capacitors, 7 of which were confirmed bad, and changed the other 8 just to be safe. Parts came from Digi-Key. Cost to fix everything including a second full set of caps was $40.
I didn't have the green blinking light problem, so I guess that's why Larry never responded to this post.
I would like to spent the plane fare and fly out to CA just to tell those guys at Mitsubishi just what I think.
Enjoy, people. D^mn me if I'll ever buy another Mitsubishi POS.
Happy New Year.
Kev
Kev, My mitsubishi wd52525 piece of ---- just did the same thing you described. I guess i will be trying to find someone to fix this piece of garbage. Sure do wished i would have bought a different brand.
I have replace the caps on all boards I have now a solid red status light on I recheck all and found two resistor on the power board open these are 100k ohms 5% 3w there next to the three large caps were the a/c plug connector is ant advice please thanks
Victor