Hello,
First off, thanks everybody for such a great website. I've managed to find out more info on my Mitsubishi than I thought possible ... or really wanted to know! haha I now have hope that my monolith can be saved!
My problem is that last Thursday during my football game (grrrr) the green part of the picture suddenly shifted by about 2ft, but only on the left side. The right side was perfectly aligned. After fiddling with everything I could think of in the menu with no success, I left the tv off all night. The next morning, the image was still shifted but only by about 2 inches. I unplugged it, opened it up and looked around for a while, then I powered it up again and the image was fine for about 2 minutes and then the green shifted back over.
Based on this info, does it sound like a convergence IC problem? Figured I'd ask around before ordering the parts. Below is an image of my calibration screen from that first night for reference. Thanks everybody,
Ron
This could be convergence ics, but you would need to check the resistors as well.
IC's are bad and possible other parts in the circuit such as resistors, fuses ect.
Thanks for the feedback. I'm ordering the parts tonight. Hopefully I'll have some good news in a few weeks!
Hi Ron,
I just came across your article here and have a similiar problem with my Mits WS-65611 TV, can you let me know what parts you had to order in order to fix your problem? Would also love to know who you ordered them from as well.I just replaced 7 capacitors in the DM module and I still have blurry corners ie convergence problem similiar to what you had!
Thanks Ron!
Ryan
Hi Ryan,
Slight problem with this ... I procrastinated with buying the replacement parts (i.e. bought a new TV) to the point that I lost all of my research like part#'s, websites, etc. I just now tonight found this website/forum again.
A few weeks ago, I did finally take the entire electronic unit out and started looking at everything, found two bad solder points, but that's it. Capacitors visually looked fine, so now on to actually testing resistors. I will pass along any links as I come across them. I do have the actual service manual PDF if you haven't found that.
Sorry about not being much help at this point. Let me know if you found any good info.
Ron
How do you know which resistors to test? There is far to many small ones to test them all.. Anyway to narrow down testing?
The best advice I can tell you at this point is to go to tvrepairkits.com and order the complete convergence kit for your model of TV set, no need to search and order multiple parts from different sources and pay multiple shipping fees! The kit comes with original Sanyo STK ICÂ’S , not those cheap aftermarket or china made ICÂ’S full pictorial directions, the thermal paste, resistors, the correct Pico fuses, AND free live on-Line tech assistance in case you run into a problem with the repair. They ship out 2 to 3 day Priority mail, the next day in most cases,
WEll ive already ordered sanyo stk ic's but from different vender.. Is there anyway you could give me the resistor numbers to check for possible damage to keep me from spending more money? I know it sounds like im just being to cheap but id rather not spend on purchasing same parts twice.. If its not too much trouble all i ask is for resistor numbers. thanks
That is absolutely awesome Larry Dillon! Just ordered the kit (for real this time). Next stop is radioshack to pick up a desoldering iron. Thanks for the info!
Ron
when soldering in the new ic's make sure there are no shorts across the pins or you will blow out the new ic's best way to tell is to use a toothpick and make sure it slides between all of thesoldered pins of the ic's good luck
Larry Dillon.
I received the kit yesterday and immediately bought the desoldering iron. I spent this morning on the practice board until I was confortable soldering and desoldering. Then I went for it. I'm still a little shocked but it worked!!! My fuses were all fine but I had two convergence resistors blown and installed the new IC.
My next question, if something is still wrong, about how long before it would show up? or would it have been immediate? The TV's been running for about an hour now with perfect convergence.
Next step, work on the calibration. Thanks for all the help everybody!
New problem ... while working on the calibration (something was off a bit) I discovered my Blue is blurry. Everything is lined up nice and square but it looks like a triple image. Inside the calibration mode, green wording is perfect, red is perfect, but in blue you can't read the word "blue". In advanced calibration, the red hatch is perfect but the blue is really thick.
Any suggestion? I opened everything back up and replaced all 4 blue convergence resistors, but no luck. Is there anything on the lamps themselves that can be adjusted?
Thanks!
All fixed ... turns out I had messed with the lamp calibration knobs on the front of the TV. All adjusted and looks perfect.
GREAT!! I was just going to send you this
http://www.techlore.com/article/26744/G2-Adjustment-and-Electrical-Focus...
Hey Larry,
Isn't the G2 adjustment a little more complicated than was listed in that article? The service manual had me do several more things including using a multimeter to adjust each lamp to a certain voltage for a black screen. Worked like an absolute charm, but wasn't as easy as just backing off a bit from the retrace lines. Service manual proved to be invaluable once I finally managed to figure out what the heck they were talking about. haha
Ron
Ron I have never adjusted the G2 the way you describe!!??
Larry.Never had an issue with a sets picture as well.the way I describe is an easy no nonsense adjustment procedure.
Larry D.
So Im about to check the volts on my WS-55907. The only way to do that is to turn the tv on...correct?
You have helped me in the past and I greatly appreciate it.
Hey Larry, I was probably doing something different. The adjustment I performed was titled CRT Cutoff:
1. Select an External Input with no signal.
2. Enter the Adjustment Mode, VC Function.
3. Press “1”, automatically blanks the screen and sets COL to 0.
4. Set the data to the values given in the table below.
5. Connect the oscilloscope to TP6R.
6. Adjust the Red Screen VR so the black level is 180V, as shown below, or
186V ±1VDC using an DC Voltmeter.
7. Repeat Steps 4 and 5 to set the Blue and Green Screen VRs, using
TP6G and TP6B.
The only issue I had was that I had to use an Input with a signal to get the black screen. Using a source with no signal kept giving me a blue screen.
Anyway, that's what I did. It's been pretty cool having the old monolith up and running again!
as long as the Grey scale is to your liking, then i guess you did it correctly but the only time you need to adjust crt cutoffs is when you replace a picture tube!!!???
Larry D.