Sony KP53v35

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knip4db
Sony KP53v35

Hello,

I am having a problem with a Sony KP-53v35 rear projection set. I took it to a local repair shop and they told me it needed a convergence package $400.00. I assume this means the 2 STK's and whatever fuses and or resistors involved in the circuit. The TV does not have the same initial problem as most with convergence issues. When it is plugged in there is are 2 initial clicking sounds. Then it is silent and will not power on or blink any codes. Could this still be a convergence problem?
I have the manual for it and it says it is the ra-1 chassis. If you need anymore information to help let me know I will provide anythinng I can. I have background as an electrician and soldering. No background working on a tv though. Any advice on whether it is probably in the convergence circuit or possibly elsewhere?

Thank you,

John

knip4db
I talked to the previous

I talked to the previous owner. He told me that when he turned it on it would have no picture no sound and the code light would blink on and off steadily. Maybe that helps more.

Alnp
there is a service manual in

there is a service manual in the download section here also if anyone needs it:
http://www.techlore.com/download/21067/RA-1-Chassis/

"Could this still be a convergence problem?"
yes, possibly
http://www.techlore.com/forum/thread/20109/Sony-going-into-protect-mode/...

check the boards for bad solder, especially flyback, HOT, transformer and coil.

knip4db
thanks for the reply alnp.

thanks for the reply alnp.
I read through that other thread and my voltages are quite different. I am looking at page 35 and 36 of the manual (The block diagrams). I can tell you at connectors CN624, CN616,CN625,CN681 that I am not getting the 135vdc, 15vdc, -15vdc, or 7vdc. What I am reading is .15vdc instead of 15vdc, 2.48vdc instead of 135vdc. 11vdc and 7vdc read 0vdc. Now with the TV not even powering up maybe I should not be getting anything there yet I don't know. I have not read through all of the schematic yet or tried to interpret. T602 is a common point but it could be something missing feeding T602 as well. I will look at it some more over the weekend and see if I can check the components you mentioned and whatever else I can come up with. I think I need to go to kinkos or something and print these schematics on larger paper so I can read them easier. I appreciate any and all insight and help.

knip4db
Well I have checked around

Well I have checked around and do not see any bad soldering. I am not sure what direction to go to. I do not just want to start replacing parts.
Right now the problem is when plugged in I get some relays clicking and that is it for sound. No blinking lights. When I press the power button on ther front of the TV nothing happens. Is there a latching circuit that I may need to check to see if it is getting the proper voltage or ground to energize the circuit or for a bad component in that circuit?

Thanks,
John

Alnp
Is the local repair shop

Is the local repair shop diagnosis reliable?

The converence ic's can be removed altogether to test if you think they are shorted.

You have checked with a magnifier for bad solder (esp ic's and connectors) also look for coolant leaks from the crt's.

This site lists some repair histories for RA1 shutdown:
http://wa6ati.com/Sony-Projection.html

Hopefully one of the Sony techs here will step in and help you out.

knip4db
i did not use any

i did not use any magnification. I will get my magnifying glass out though. I did not notice anything that resembled any kind of leakage. Thanks for that link I will check it out.
Again thank you for the reply

I don't know if the local shop is reliable. All I know is my impression of talking on the phone to them and when I dropped the TV off and picked it up. He seemed to know what he was talking about.

I keep seeing reference to pico fuses as well but all I see are resistors, caps, and IC chips for the most part. How are the pico fuses identified on the schematics?

knip4db
I have not ordered any parts

I have not ordered any parts yet, but I may decide to replace the STK's.
They are STK392-010 is it a good idea to replace with exact # or would STK392-020 or 040 be an upgrade type option?

Larry Dillon
use what is in there, never

use what is in there, never go to something the manufacturer does not recomend!

knip4db
That sounds like a good idea.

That sounds like a good idea. Just thought there may be upgrades to prevent future problems but it sounds like using the same is better. Excellent, thank you!! Larry, how are the pico fuses Identifed on the schematics?

Larry Dillon
if I am not mistaking, they

if I am not mistaking, they start with PS. I have uploaded the service manual for this set on techlores tech corner but will not be available for you to download untill later on today as the editors need to verify the file is clean and non corrupt. The download should be available here later today, Good Luck
http://www.techlore.com/group/2/Technician-s-Corner/list_downloads

knip4db
Thank you for uploading the

Thank you for uploading the manual. I will check it out and see if it is different from the one I have. I will look again for PS#### and see what I find. I have been concentrating on the D and G board only.

Larry Dillon
your welcome, the manual

your welcome, the manual might not be available till latter today.

knip4db
Larry,

Larry,
The manual is there and better than the one I have. It is the same just scanned better and more readable on the computer. There are no pico fuses listed for this model tv so I downloaded another model to compare and it had pico fuses listed and identified with a PS. Since mine does not have it I started looking for differences down the parts list. What I noticed was there were a few resistors on the D board that were shaded on mine but not on the other manual. Could those shaded resistors be doing the same function as pico fuses?

Shaded items are defined as "critical for safety. Replace only with part number specified."

thank you

John

knip4db
There is one other issue that

There is one other issue that I have discovered that probably has a simple explanation but I don't know the answer to.
Every resistor on the D Board that has a listed value of 3.9 ohms reads 1.2 ohms.
Every resistor on the D Board that has a listed value of 4.7 ohms reads 1.4 ohms.
Why would they install different rated resisters or what could be going on to make them all read exactly the same way out of tolerance?

Larry Dillon
because to check the resistor

because to check the resistor you ned to disconnect one side, yuor measurin in circuit you sre reading the convergnce coils.

knip4db
thanks, I should have thought

thanks, I should have thought of needing to isolate to actually measure. Any ideas for the pico fuses or whatever componenet is doing that function?

Larry Dillon
pico fuse will measure zero

pico fuse will measure zero ohms or a dead short across them.

knip4db
I understand about the fuses

I understand about the fuses reading zero across them and being good. What my concern is that I can not find anything in the manual about pico fuses for this model. When I look at the schematics or the individual board's parts list there aren't any pico fuses listed. Now, when I looked at another model tv manual there were pico fuses listed. Would it be possible there aren't any used on this model? Or a different designation? Could a different component be used instead of a pico fuse? I am going to replace my STK's and just want to be thorough with the rest of the checks too.
thanks.

Larry Dillon
chck r2519 and r1520, they

chck r2519 and r1520, they should be 2.2. ohms. make sure these resistors are good.

knip4db
I did not see a r2519 I

I did not see a r2519 I assumed you meant r1519.
r1519 = 2.4 ohms
r1520 = 2.4 ohms

knip4db
Are there any others that I

Are there any others that I would need to be concerned about?

 

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