I have a Mits WD-52327. When I turn it on, Timer light stays lit 'green' steady for ~1 min. Next, Lamp light blinks 'green' for ~2 min. then steady 'red'. Screen/audio never turns on. Intermittant at first, quit doing it for about 1.5 months, now it will not come on at all, the same cycle every time. When it did come on, you could hear the engine firing off, now it won't do it at all. Mitsu said it was the bulb. Is there something that 'tells' the set to turn on the bulb after x-amt of time? If so, I think this may be the culprit. I have tried unplugging the set for a while, plugging back in and resetting the set. I have tried removing/ reinstalling the bulb, and I still have the same problem. I bought a new lamp only to find out that didn’t fix it. I took the set apart (except the engine, too in depth for me). I looked for the bulging caps everyone seems to talk about. I havn’t found any unless there are more hiding somewhere. I assume this set is not DM powered like other Mitsus as I can’t find ANY info for a DM board, module or anything like that for this set. I took the chassis out and disassembled it to look over the caps and everything else, looks good to me. Does anyone have a clue as to what the problem could be? I have the service manual in PDF if that would help.
Thanks - Dave
If the lamp you put in was a good lamp then I'd look towards the ballast as a possible culprit.
I am 99.2% sure that my poblem is not the lamp. I ordered an entire new lamp assy complete with housing and I have the exact same problem no matter which lamp I use. That's what I was thinking the problem was too. Do you know of any places online to get it? The only place I found it is at Sears' parts site and its $380. Is there a way to test the current ballast with a multimeter? I do have the Service manual on PDF.
I have further torn into the Mits and have included some pics. I ohmed out my lamp ballast card (Osram brand BTW, not mits, on ebay for $75 shipped from China, only place I could find 1) and found a resistor(maybe a pico fuse?) and a weird fuse that I couldn't get any resistance reading on the meter. The needle didn't budge when I checked them out and put the leads on opposite ends of each one. Does this mean they are blown or bad, or are they not suppose to have any resistance? As you can tell, I am somewhat of a novice with the multimeter, I know enough to get me in trouble. I also took a few pics of the power board caps to see if anyone can see something I can't. The caps look good to me, and, no leakage evident. I am not asking anyone to troubleshoot thru a forum and I know it may seem that I amin over my head, but, I have repaired several other electronics in the past and I have a general knowledge of the multimeter (I have an analog one) and I can solder pretty well. So, any help, suggestions or input would be appreciated.
Thanks - Dave
The color bands on that resistor looks like they are blue, red, green? If the last one is green, you are in the meg-ohm(million) range. You would probably not get a reading on it unless you measured on a high resistance scale.
I think it's my camera. The bands are blue, gray, green, silver. The reddish look is the body of the resistor. What do you think of the white fuse (I guess, never seen one like that)? Do you see anything out of the norm on the boards, ie caps, etc? Thanks for the quick reply and for your articles you posted. I have been reading them and appreciate the wealth of knowledge you openly share with us. Thanks!
If they are grey, green, silver then yes that resistor is bad, I am not sure what the other device is. Possible a diode. I would check witrh the schematic first to check for the values. I do not have this service manual so I could not tell you what the values are for sure.
I have the service manual for the set (if you would like a copy, I have it in PDF, let me know and I will email it to you). Could that resistor prevent the light engine from firing off?
Unfortunately, the ballast board is OSRAM, and the schematic is not in the manual for it and I cannot find any info on the net for it other than a Chinese supplier on ebay that is selling the whole board for $50 + $25 shipping. The OSRAM site only has the PN listed on a PDF, nothing else.
I would replace the entire board. The resistor most likely burned out because of a faulty component. The value of the resistor is a low one and is most likely only a current limiter of sorts.
Thanks Larry, I am sending you that service manual for your future use. I will order the board this week, and let you know what happens.
Other than that, do you see any obvious problems in the other pics I posted? ie caps, etc?
I really appreciate your help, thanks again.
Nope, it all looks OK but looks can be deceiving.
Larry -
I started shooting some wires to check voltage and I came across wire 4 on connector J9 at the engine is not getting 12VDC, as a matter of fact, it's not getting anything. The other wires are checking out fine. I checked the wire all the way to connector PA on the chassis. The wire is fine, no shorts. I sent the manual to you earlier, on page 43 is where you will see connector PA, wire 4 is supposed to get 12VDC. From the diagram, can you tell at all what is preventing it from getting power?
Thanks man.
It could be because Q9A70 is not conducting current or voltage the driver transistor for Q9A70 is open? Now I would check the transistor but as for Q9A70, it is called a FET and really cannot be reliably checked. That is a part that should be replaced IF the driver checks good.
Larry or Dave. Any chance you could let me know that the conclusion was on this problem. I'm having the exact same problem as you where experiencing.
Try to turn on TV, green power timer light is on for 1.5 minutes. Then green lamp light blinks for 1 minute. Then the lamp light turns red and stays red until I unplug or hit the reset button. Need to do that about 3 - 5 times before it turns on.
Just wondering what fixed the issue. Thanks. Paul.
Larry or Dave. Any chance you could let me know that the conclusion was on this problem. I'm having the exact same problem as you where experiencing.
Try to turn on TV, green power timer light is on for 1.5 minutes. Then green lamp light blinks for 1 minute. Then the lamp light turns red and stays red until I unplug or hit the reset button. Need to do that about 3 - 5 times before it turns on.
Just wondering what fixed the issue. Thanks. Paul.
paul, I have the exact tv as you have. Although mine works ok now I'm sure it will break in the next year or so. Could you send me a copy of the service manual so I have it when I need it.
My email is [email protected]
Thanks