RCA D52W14 HELP!

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Mary0716
Mary0716's picture
RCA D52W14 HELP!

I have an RCA D52W14 television.  About 3 years old- has worked faithfully all 3 years.  A week ago, I tried to turn the tv on with the remote and the power light came on for 5 seconds and then shut off.  THis happened 3 times.  I then tried to turn it on using the power buttons on the front of the television, again the power light came on for 5 seconds, went off and then cycled for 3 times.  Each time the light came on, a familiar sound like the television was going to boot up but each time nothing happened.

I called a tv repair place and they told me that it would be more expensive to fix than replace- that's without even looking at it.  Can someone give me some advice on what I can try on my own first?

Larry Dillon
Larry Dillon's picture
On this model of TV set, the

On this model of TV set, the power supply wilol try to start up three time s and then stop. It sounds like you may have a bad flayback or an issue in the sweep power supply. If the part is available, it will cost you about 350 to 500 bucks to repair. Maybe try to call an authorized RCA repair shop. Good Luck.

joanjet
joanjet's picture
I have the same tv and the

I have the same tv and the same exact problem.  I have had mine for about 3 1/2 years.  I called a local tv repair guy and he said it will cost me about $200.  He said it is most likely the high voltage transformer or the capacitor.  Either way, the cost about the same. 

Good luck! 

helpmytvnow
helpmytvnow's picture
Has anyone fixed the problem?

Has anyone fixed the problem??? I was just curious what it is because mine is doing the same thing!!!!

Dwray
Dwray's picture
Check CP150 2200UF/16V ,

Check CP150 2200UF/16V , CP114 220uf/35V & CP120 220/35V if puffed on top replace and resolder Flyback if TV still want come on unplug Connector BP130 If set powers up will not have Sound replace the audio output IC its shorted its a TDA7269A

937tech88
937tech88's picture
I have the same problem, mine

I have the same problem, mine is 3 1/2 years old, I'm going to try to fix it myself(appliance tech),I'll let you know how it turns out.

joanjet
joanjet's picture
I haven't had mine fixed yet.

I haven't had mine fixed yet. I never had the time or the money. I did try to cut it on a month or so ago and it was still doing the same thing. I tried again the day before yesterday and it came on and has been working ever since. The color isn't what it was though. Now I am afraid something else is wrong with it. It this thing really worth fixing or should I buy a new t.v.

Thanks!

CINDY01
CINDY01's picture
i HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM THE

i HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM THE POWER BUTTON WILL LIGHT UP FOR A FEW SECONDS AND MAKE A SOUND AS IF IT WILL COME ON FOR A FEW SECONDS THIS CYCLE REPEATS 3 TIMES AND NO POWER. I HAVE ALSO HAD MY SET FOR ABOUT 3 1/2 YEARS. WORKING ON HAVING IT REPAIRED.

ThankGod
ThankGod's picture
I had the same problem where

I had the same problem where my D52W14 RCA big screen TV would cycle power on and off three times prior to turning completely off. I finally had someone come look at it after much searching on the internet. Turns out it had a bad deflector (may have been a reflector) board. It just had some components that weren't working according to the repairman. It cost me $340+tax to have the shop come by and repair it (that included a visit to investigate and put the part back in). Good luck!

I used TV Tronics out of Austin, TX

CINDY01
CINDY01's picture
IF YOU DONT MIND WHAT REPAIR

IF YOU DONT MIND WHAT REPAIR COMPANY DID YOU USE?

joanjet
joanjet's picture
I didn't have it repaired. I

I didn't have it repaired. I had it in my sunroom and we didn't use it for almost a year. When I moved I thought I would try and see if it would work, and it did. It has been working ever since. It does have a blue halo in several places, sometimes. It seems to come and go.

The repair guy I talked to was on HWY 98 in Fairhope, AL. I can't remember the name of the business. They also rent U-Haul or Penske trucks.

Hope this helps!

Professional246
Professional246's picture
I Have the same problem, if

I Have the same problem, if you are somewhat machanically inclined you can performe the fix on this model if you have a blinking power light. On mine I just took back panel off, laid T.V. on its face and pulled bottom tray out/off track and laid flat. Desoldered the flyback ($18.00), fit the new one in and resoldered. Locate the capacitors which are labeled (may need flashlight) Cp150, Cp120 and Cp114 ($8.00 for all three) desolder and resolder. It took about 2 hours givin that I did not have a desoldering pump. I have opened and tinkered with numerous electronics over the years. Please if you don't think that you can perform this I would contact a good repair service.

shanna p -dallas
shanna p -dallas's picture
This is the same problem I

This is the same problem I had with my model of this same TV about a month ago.

All that the tv repair company is charging you for is basically labor.

We fixed ours (this took about two hours and cost us about $20). The job was done by my fiancee (electrician - never worked on tv's) and my brother (maintenance worker - never worked on tv's)
DO NOT be afraid-if you get in over your head you can always call the repair shop!
We had to replace a capacitor (CP150).
The capacitor was about ten at radioshack and then we had to buy a soldering iron and solder.
This wasn't really that difficult once we located the bad capacitor.
You can tell that it's bad because it's not flat on top and instead has a more domed appearance. The CP150 is located on the main board on the left side (if you are in the back of the TV which you will be) towards the back of the board.

RCA's are apparently known for this issue (especially this model).

stevenjmcdade
stevenjmcdade's picture
I have the same problem as

I have the same problem as you guys but mine is 5 1/2 years old. Lucky me lol

Travis C.
Travis C.'s picture
If anyone else has this

If anyone else has this problem I can replace your capacitors for much cheaper than a repair shop. I did one of these a week ago and it works great. Email me acewinston@gmail.com

Kev V
Kev V's picture
Hey Travis C,

Hey Travis C,

where are you located? I'm having the same problem with my Tv and i would like to repair it. I'm in Campbell California.

arrocha87
arrocha87's picture
Well my neighbor just let me

Well my neighbor just let me have this tv, its the june 2004 model, as he was moving and it didnt power on, just blinks the power three times. i work at radioshack so im going to try the capacitors and see how that goes. will keep ya updated. I dont even know what a flyback is lol so ill leave that for the second attempt if it doesnt work.

arrocha87
arrocha87's picture
Well radioshack doesnt carry

Well radioshack doesnt carry the 2200uf/16v or even a 25v. we do have the 220uf/35v. anyone know of a local shop in dallas to purchase the 2200uf from? i could order from like parts express but i wanted to try it out tonight...

evil
evil's picture
You can buy the kit already

You can buy the kit already put together here http://www.tvrepairworld.com/rca_repair_kits

Make shure you buy the right kit for your chassis either ATC222 or ITC222

arrocha87
arrocha87's picture
How do I verify which is the

How do I verify which is the correct chassis for my model? Nevermind its on the back of my tv, I have the itc222

arrocha87
arrocha87's picture
I cant find cp150! Do I have

I cant find cp150! Do I have to remove the board completely from th

arrocha87
arrocha87's picture
I cant find cp150! Do I have

I cant find cp150! Do I have to remove the board completely from the rack? I see cp114 and cp120... This is what I'm looking at.

evil
evil's picture
It would be easier on you if

It would be easier on you if you did remove it completely from the rack its somewhat easy there are tabs all around the outer perimeter of the board that hold it in as well as a (few that hold the center of the board-hard to see untill you start trying to lift the board,there will be a hole in the board with a black plastic hook looking thing that is holding it in-)mark and disconnect all wires to that board execpt the thick bright red flyback transformer wire,I say dont remove it because its harder than h*ll to remove without breaking the plastic connector that holds it in,this is also the wire and device that can kill you dead before you know what happened if its not discharged.but even with those wires still attached you have enough slack to remove the board from the chassis and rotate it to a position so that you can solder. http://www.techlore.com/download/26077/RCA-ITC222/
download that then open the 2nd document scroll to page 17 then hit F3 for the search bar,or if your like me and that dont work most of the time click edit and find to bring up the search bar and type in cp150 and hit enter or find next then hit the zoom a few times untill you see its location that will be highlighted then zoom back out to get an idea of the location on the board.

arrocha87
arrocha87's picture
Thanks. Just getting home

Thanks. Just getting home from work so i'll start again tomorrow. I got all three caps and i'll replace those to see if it works. If not I'm going to order the flyback.

evil
evil's picture
I have a spare flyback

I have a spare flyback transformer that im almost certain is good from an itc222 that I will let you have at cost of shipping.The HOT-Horizontal Output Transistor would likely be bad before the flyback but you never know on this set it just has to many problems.Also check for bad solder or cracked cold solder joints on the flyback pins.http://www.google.com/imgres?q=cold+solder+joint&um=1&hl=en&sa=N&biw=102... as well as the HOT and just about any horizontal circuits.

arrocha87
arrocha87's picture
Well its not the flyback

Well its not the flyback solder points and all three caps look to be in great shape. I believe this is the obvious culprit... LOL, belive its CL031, what is that?

arrocha87
arrocha87's picture
Well i just went to the rca

Well i just went to the rca repair kits site metioned above and saw that there is a repair kit for this. is it truly necessary to replace all items or can i just replace the cl031? also what is involved in replacing this as the board is burned? is this something a beginner could do? i am doing a few practice runs on some boards and random caps i bought a work. if anyone near Dallas wants to help... :)

evil
evil's picture
It looks worse than it is

It looks worse than it is,take some alchohol and a swab and wipe the suit off of it.Any time a component fails catastrophically its bound to take other components out with it.This is as simple as beginner can get,provided you know how to solder.Dallas is a little out of my league,im in TN.Ounce you wipe the suit off the board you will see that the terminals for the box capacitor are turned once they pass through the board,you will need to heat the solder up while bending these terminals straight then you can use something like THIS
to remove the solder I find it works ALOT better than solder braid.Im not shure if its polarized or not,I may take a look at the manual and see a little later, but you will want to mark one end of the cap and the board and install the new one with the letters facing the same direction as the one you took out.I also have all these components that are good that I could give u at cost of shipping.
and if all else fails you could always take the board to a repair shop and have them install it for you for pretty cheap.Even though your solder isnt craked on the terminals of the flyback you will want to go ahead and replace the solder on them now so you dont have to do it later on down the road.

arrocha87
arrocha87's picture
What would the cost be to

What would the cost be to Dallas, tx 75223? I just need those three components mentioned on the repair kit? I've soldered a few times but just like connections to radio or light harnesses in a car. Never a board. I'll YouTube some vids on how to solder a board. I believe the box cap burned a hole in the board... Does that affect what I will be doing?

evil
evil's picture
Clean it up and take some

Clean it up and take some more pictures of it so I can see how bad it is,I beleive the printed part of the circuit board is large enough to scrape the coating off and make a new hole for the terminal of the cap,if it did.Ill check on sending them to TX 2morrow if I get a chance.

arrocha87
arrocha87's picture
ok. i have a desoldering tool

ok. i have a desoldering tool, what solder and gauge should i be using? im assuming the thinnest one?

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