WS55511 blinking green light

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simitom
WS55511 blinking green light

I own a Mitsubishi WS55511  manufactured in 05/2003, with the blinking green light next to the power button. The light will blink for about 30 seconds then goes out. If I push the reset button it will start blinking again.  I do not have an owners manual.  I contacted Best Buy and they immediately said its a bulb. After reading more into the blinking light syndrome, I was reluctant to just replace it as the cost is significant. Do you have any advice or manuals available. I feel confident with the right guidance I will be able to make the TV work again. I can figure out schematics and could solder the necessary parts as required if it should be capacitors. Any info would be appredciated. Thank you,

Tom

2of12
I too have the WS-55511 w

I too have the WS-55511 w/blinking green light I think we need LARRY to e-mail us the manual info to replace overheated bulging capacitors Larry my e-mail is  [email protected] Thanks in advance I have read all 115 pages of the fourm. very informative. Thanks Lyn

Larry Dillon
If the green light goes out,

If the green light goes out, your problem IS NOT the DM problem. It could be a power supply or bulb problem.

2of12
Ok Well I just times the

Ok Well I just times the blinking light.I belive it blinked for about 50 sec then quit?? Yep I tryed it twice. Hum,now what? 

Larry Dillon
Like I said, that's a normal

Like I said, that's a normal thing for the light to blink for a bit and stop. That is the DM and the TV sets microprocessor communicating with each other and when they talk to each other they get happy and stop booting.

2of12
OK. Now what buy a new set? I

OK. Now what buy a new set? I'll go take the back off and check the fuses. I'll be carefull not to get knocked on my butt. I post once I have checked them.

Larry Dillon
Yes be careful. I will send

Yes be careful. I will send you a copy of the service manual. Check F9A02, F9A03, F9A04, and F9A05. Let me know what fuse you find open.

2of12
well i'm not doing so well. I

well i'm not doing so well. I cant find but one fuse altough I pulled the entire DM box out opened it looked ok now need to get the chassie pulled out some so I can put the wire plugs back

2of12
OK then I cant find the fuses

OK then I cant find the fuses any help would help 

2of12
well I've bought a new 65" im

well I've bought a new 65" im throuing this one away. I boutgh the 5 year extended  war too. modle # WD-65734 woo hoo. P.S. I think I found the fuses on the old set but they are sodered in I'm not messing with that.

simitom
I finally had some time today

I finally had some time today and looked inside the back of the tv. I checked the fuses  shown on the diagram on the inside of the tv. they tested ok, I dont know where the dm board is to check the 2 fuses shown on the diagram. I also thought the bulb was easy to access and inspect. Man was I wrong! My question is..where is the dm board and how do i remove the bulbs to inspect them. Looks like theyre hooked up to some high power.  Thanks again.   Tom

Larry Dillon
Naaww, to far to go. I want

Naaww, to far to go. I want to get a used set. Mine are all older projection TV sets.

KariSue
Mitsubishi WS-73711 - Green

Mitsubishi WS-73711 - Green Blinking Light

1.  Could you send me the information also?  I hope this doesn't give you any ideas, but if you had a penny for every time you sent the information....  I guess our appreciation is worth more than the money.  Great to see someone so helpful out there.

2.  I have the same blinking light issue.  The green light blinks rapidly about 20 times, pauses for a second then blinks again.  I removed the DM module and the capacitors visually look fine.  I tried measuring the capacitors with a Fluke 87 in the capacitance mode while they are in the circuit and the meter registered ‘OL'.  I assume I have to take them out of the circuit before I measure them.  Do you have any recommendations before I go through replacing the capacitors (measure voltages and such)?  Are any of them more likely to be bad than the others?  I measured the capacitors in resistance mode and obtained the following results:

1          C9801             1.2 Mohms

2          C9802             1.2 Mohms

3          C9803             1.2 Mohms

4          C9817             1 Mohms slowly goes to 1Kohm

5          C9818             1 Mohms slowly goes to 1Kohm

6          C9813             2 Mohms

7          C9814             2 Mohms

3.  I downloaded the service manual for free.  The manual describes the procedure for getting the error codes.  It did not work for me.  Is this because the power issue doesn't let me go that far.  Any other recommendations?

Thanks again!


DM Module Cap's

DM Board CapacitorsDM Module

Larry Dillon
Just breplace the seven

Just breplace the seven capacitors, then make sure you check the small fuses in the power supply F9A02 through F9A05

KariSue
Continued -

Continued -

4.  There is a label inside the chassis indicating where 9 fuses are.  They are located on the two main board inside the chassis (3 on one, 4 on the other) and on the DM board (2).  The ones on the main board are green and the ones on the DM board are black.  They all read around 0.3 ohms.

5.  I tried to post some nice pictures that I took of the DM board and such, but could not do it.  Does anyone know how to do this?

Larry Dillon
Do you have the advanced

Do you have the advanced editor turned on in your profile. Click on your name, click then on the edit profile, then scroll down to preference and make sure the box is checked for the advanced editor feature. The advance editor will appear on top of where you type your response. There is a feature in the advanced editor where it says insert or edit image, as well as a You Tube movie clip.

KariSue
Continued -

Continued -

6.  PICTURE POSTING SIDETRACK:  I had both those buttons on the tool bar before I clicked advanced editor (edit image and you tube).  Now I have even more options.   I again tried to insert an image, but it didn't work.  It asks for a 'Image URL' instead of a path on my hard drive.  I think this may be related to the problem.  I tried the 'paste from word', but it didn't seem to work either.  I tried the plain paste button and a big white box appeared but didn't come through when I posted.

 7.  BACK TO THE PROBLEM:  I removed one of the capacitors from the circuit.  It measures 2Mohm.  However, I still don't seem to be able to measure correctly with the Fluke 87.  I set it to capacitance (blue button) and I get 'OL' on all four capacitance range settings.   I tried it again with reversed polarity - no luck.  Seems simple, but am I missing something?  I went to Radio Shack and they had a 1000 uF cap, but only 85 deg C.   I will have to go to Fry's later.  I picked one up anyway,  just to try the meter.  The new capacitor from Radio Shack still reads 'OL'.  Any ideas on what I am doing wrong with the meter?   I hate to admit it, but I have never measured capacitance with the meter.

 

  

KariSue
continued -

continued -

8.  BLINKING GONE BUT DOES NOT POWER UP.  The blinking light is gone, but it won't power up.  I replaced the capacitors then plugged in the TV.  The light blinked for 70 seconds as it is supposed to then it went off.  I was not able to power the TV up.  I was able to access the error codes which I was not able to do before.  I obtained the error code by holding input and menu for five seconds.  I used the front panel reset to reset the TV a couple times.  It appeared to reset, but didn't make a difference.  The error code indicate no problems (error code 12 - normal operation).  I removed the front panel and verified the power switch closes and the wires were connected properly.  It checked out.  Any hints?

KariSue
Hey Larry, where are you? 

Hey Larry, where are you?  Don't you know we all wait on your next word?   I need those words of wisdom to guide me away from smoke and to a working TV.  Not only my reputation, but my whole family is counting on you.  This is no time to go off an have a life outside of this blog.

KariSue
Continued -  TV WORKS NOW!

Continued -  TV WORKS NOW!

 

9.  I disconnected the cable that connects to the on/off front panel button CCA.  I used the remote (which did not turn the TV on before I removed the cable) to turn the TV on.  I've been using the TV for 2 hours and it works fine. 

10.  I don't know if I said this, but you can download a lot of servie manuals from http://www.eserviceinfo.com/ for free.

 

11.  I got the 73" 4 year old TV off craigs list for free.  $20 and a few days work and the TV works fine.  Probably could have been less time if I didn't enjoy the learning process and stayed more focused.  Win some, lose some.  Chalk this up as a win.  I couldn’t have done it without all the great help on these message boards.  Most important, this monster didn’t end up in the land fill – at least not this year.  Now I just need to clean and probably calibrate the system.

Thanks again Larry!

Larry Dillon
KariSue, thats good news

KariSue, thats good news about your repair job. Now take off the front screen and clean off those lens and mirrors and the picture will look like new. BTW, what is that picture you are showing here? LOL

KariSue
I cleaned the lenses and

I cleaned the lenses and screen, however, I am not very satisfied with the picture.  I also did the basic and advanced convergence calibration through the remote control - it was off quite a bit.  The picture is quite a bit more fuzy than the 3 year old Sony 55 LCD projection TV (crags list $200) I have.  I'm not sure if this is just the technology difference - probably.  It is a good picture and it is very big.  However, it is hard to believe people were paying $7000 for this TV just four years ago.  It actually looks like it just ins't in focus.  It is like a projector that is a little out of focus.  Maybe I will have to see if there is a way to focus it.  Any other ideas or is this just what I should expect?

I also don't seem to be able to get it to go into a 1080 mode.  I have a new Sony up conversion DVD player connected to the three composite DTV video inputs.  I have the DVD playing when I turn the set on and the set says 480 mode in the upper left corner for a few seconds.  I went through all the settings on the DVD and TV and cannot find something to change this.  Not sure if the DVD is not being up converted or if the TV isn't going into the 1080 mode.  Although the picture comes through, the TV also has a message at the bottom of the screen for a short time that says the HD connections are not correct.  I know there is a setting for this in the TV menu.  You have to pick RGB or Y/Pr/Pb.   I picked Y/Pr/Pb.  The colors on both ends of the three cables are correctly connected.  The owners manual shows DVD connection to the 480 component input, but not this 1080 DTV input.  Maybe this has something to do with the picture.  I tried the composite SD inputs and get the same results.  I've connected the same player through the same cables to the Sony LCD and it looks great.

Either way, I am happy with the picture for the price (~$25).  I just want to make sure there isn't something easy to bring it to the next level - like cleaning the lenses which I have done.

BTW - The picture is just something off the net that I saw shortly after siging up to Techlore.  It appears the man has fed a snake through his nose and out his mouth.  My daughter has done this with spagetti - one of her many talents.  I guess she will have to set her goals higher now.  I felt the picture was a good reflection on how I felt at the time.

Jozipp
WS-55511 with blinking green

WS-55511 with blinking green light. Before the blinking became permanent I was able to press reset and resume viewing. I now have continuous blinking after AC is applied. The error code operational check does not change blinking pattern. I checked the fuses and rectifiers on the DM Module power PCB, they checked normal. The 7 capacitors look normal but I removed each of them and tested. They measured normal using a FLUKE 8020 Multimeter. I checked for 12v at pin 3 of PC9A21 and have 12.2v. Voltage in and out of fuses F9A04 and F9A05 is 24.5v. What is the suggested "next step".

 

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