You probably have one or both of the convergence IC's bad. The way to tell would be to check F9A04 and F9A05 in the main power supply. If one or both of these are blown and not showing to be shorted, replace the Two STK392-110 convergence IC's They are up against a big metal heat sink. They are labeled IC8C02 and IC8C01 on the board. DO NOT just replace the fuses and think everything will be OK. You need to replace the IC's first, then the blown fuse(s). If you do replace the fuses without repairing the set by replacing the convergence IC's first, you will cause more problems in the main power supply. Good luck.
how do I check the STK392-110 convergence IC's? Once I find my volt meter I will check the fuses, thay look ok, no swelling or burn marks but will confirm it with meter.
Larry you could be making a killing on your dm board fixs. On ebay a guy is selling instructions and the parts for a total of $30.00 and he mails everything to you.
Yea I know, He took all my info and is selling it. Oh well. Check the fuses man. See if one or more are no good. You cannot really check the STK IC's. What is the link for the guy selling the fix on e-bay by the way?
You will now need to check the power supply voltages. The standby voltages, as well as the switched voltages. The switched voltages only are on when you hit the power switch. Yes I got the pictures. He definitely got those from me as the same mistakes I made when typing the procedure are still there. Ironic, you help out some poor soul with their TV set, they take what you gave then and make a profit on it without sharing. Oh well, he will have to answer to a higher power one day about this.
Not sure were to check for those readings, could youguide me alittle. I can leave a comment on his ebay site for all to see if you would like. You can even write it if you wish and I will transcrib it to the site.
Chris, Do me a favor and tell everyone it is a ripoff from someone who stole the info as I have the exact things he is using with the same mistakes. Tell them where to go for the updates and the real fix from a real tech. He is a bonafide ripoff artist. It is impossible to say it is 98% to work! There are way too many variables. Now to get to your set. Do you have a multi meter and KNOW how to use it? I mean really know how to use it and know what a MV is or an ohm is? If not, maybe you should try and contact ptscorp.com. Find the toll free number and see what they would charge you overhaul the entire electrical chassis. I have heard, some are around 250 to $275 bucks complete! Let me know if you can leave a message like that. i would appreciate it. Just tell folks he is ripping most off from what he took from here.
My Mitsubishi WS-65411 has been a good TV for years. Recently it would shut down after several hours and then I would have to do a hard reset before it would power back up and work properly. Now it’s to the point that the hard reset no longer helps. It will power on for a few secs but then shut right back down. I checked the codes which were “23” Horizontal Deflection” decided I wanted a pro to look at it. Paid $50 house call and he checked it out and reset something and the TV came back up and worked perfectly. He charged me a small fortune then left. After about 1 hr and 45 min. the TV shut back down and did the same thing. I tried another hard reset but same old thing code “23” was back. Called repair man back and told him what had happened and he said it was probably a warm or leaky cap and that he would come back out and check it for another $50 plus any parts and labor…. I am a talented “Automotive Specialist” I do lots of electrical work and I have the ability to solder and work on printed boards. I just need a push into the right direction at this point. I have studied for days everyone’s problems and fixes. I now have the confidence that I can fix this myself if I had the schematics and specs to test properly. Any help would be greatly appreciated and shared for any to use in the future. Thanks in advance!
You probably have one or both of the convergence IC's bad. The way to tell would be to check F9A04 and F9A05 in the main power supply. If one or both of these are blown and not showing to be shorted, replace the Two STK392-110 convergence IC's They are up against a big metal heat sink. They are labeled IC8C02 and IC8C01 on the board. DO NOT just replace the fuses and think everything will be OK. You need to replace the IC's first, then the blown fuse(s). If you do replace the fuses without repairing the set by replacing the convergence IC's first, you will cause more problems in the main power supply. Good luck.
how do I check the STK392-110 convergence IC's? Once I find my volt meter I will check the fuses, thay look ok, no swelling or burn marks but will confirm it with meter.
Larry you could be making a killing on your dm board fixs. On ebay a guy is selling instructions and the parts for a total of $30.00 and he mails everything to you.
Yea I know, He took all my info and is selling it. Oh well. Check the fuses man. See if one or more are no good. You cannot really check the STK IC's. What is the link for the guy selling the fix on e-bay by the way?
On ebay it is listed (Mitsubishi Projection TV Television Repair Fix DM Board).
Seller: diggalot
email: [email protected]
Give me a email and i will send you what he puts on the cd he mails out with the stuff.
My tv is nothing like what he sent me . Hope this helps you!
[email protected] Thanks man.
The two fuses F9A04 & F9A05 have a good tone on the ohms meter and look normal. Could the STK392-110 still be bad or is the something else to check?
You will now need to check the power supply voltages. The standby voltages, as well as the switched voltages. The switched voltages only are on when you hit the power switch. Yes I got the pictures. He definitely got those from me as the same mistakes I made when typing the procedure are still there. Ironic, you help out some poor soul with their TV set, they take what you gave then and make a profit on it without sharing. Oh well, he will have to answer to a higher power one day about this.
Not sure were to check for those readings, could youguide me alittle. I can leave a comment on his ebay site for all to see if you would like. You can even write it if you wish and I will transcrib it to the site.
Chris, Do me a favor and tell everyone it is a ripoff from someone who stole the info as I have the exact things he is using with the same mistakes. Tell them where to go for the updates and the real fix from a real tech. He is a bonafide ripoff artist. It is impossible to say it is 98% to work! There are way too many variables. Now to get to your set. Do you have a multi meter and KNOW how to use it? I mean really know how to use it and know what a MV is or an ohm is? If not, maybe you should try and contact ptscorp.com. Find the toll free number and see what they would charge you overhaul the entire electrical chassis. I have heard, some are around 250 to $275 bucks complete! Let me know if you can leave a message like that. i would appreciate it. Just tell folks he is ripping most off from what he took from here.
My Mitsubishi WS-65411 has been a good TV for years. Recently it would shut down after several hours and then I would have to do a hard reset before it would power back up and work properly. Now it’s to the point that the hard reset no longer helps. It will power on for a few secs but then shut right back down. I checked the codes which were “23” Horizontal Deflection” decided I wanted a pro to look at it. Paid $50 house call and he checked it out and reset something and the TV came back up and worked perfectly. He charged me a small fortune then left. After about 1 hr and 45 min. the TV shut back down and did the same thing. I tried another hard reset but same old thing code “23” was back. Called repair man back and told him what had happened and he said it was probably a warm or leaky cap and that he would come back out and check it for another $50 plus any parts and labor…. I am a talented “Automotive Specialist” I do lots of electrical work and I have the ability to solder and work on printed boards. I just need a push into the right direction at this point. I have studied for days everyone’s problems and fixes. I now have the confidence that I can fix this myself if I had the schematics and specs to test properly. Any help would be greatly appreciated and shared for any to use in the future. Thanks in advance!
Chad
[email protected]