I have a Mitsubishi WS-65313 wide screen HDTV. It is about 3 years old and I am experiencing a problem, that I believe is burn in. I watch alot of shows in 4.3 format, therefore, there are FILLER black areas on the left and right side of the screen. I just noticed about a month ago, while playing my xbox 360, that when the screen is displaying white or bright colors on the screen, the center part of the screen is slightly darker than the two edges (the brighter edges are the EXACT size of the filler area when watching TV in 4.3 mode!)
I called up a Mitsubisi repair center and they said it was probably burn in and that the projectors, or lamps, would have to be replaced at $200.00 to $300.00 a piece plus a butt load of labor charges. He told me to go buy a new TV! I paid $2500.00 for this set and since I am a network engineer, extremley talented with ANY kind of electronic, I don't see why I can't do the repair myself.
My question is to anyone that can help is: Does this sound like a burn in issue? How hard is it to replace the lamps? Where is the least expensive place to buy the lamps?
Thanks for the help in advance!
First off, they are not lamps, they are picture tubes or what we techs call CRT's. Yes it does sound like a burn in on the surface of the picture tubes. Best way for you to tell would be to take off the front screen assy. and look down inside of the three lens without the set being on and see on the surface of the tubes, if you see a darker square on the picture tube. Turn on the TV set with the X-box and and see if the picture goes on the outside of the dark square. If it does, your tubes have a burn in on them. You can replace the picture tubes one at a time, do the convergence after each replacement as per the service manual. Always start with the green(center tube) first. Good Luck
The manual talks about discharging the high voltage out of the Television before working on the CRTs. It doesn't say how to discharge the voltage though. Does this have to be done, or can I just unplug the TV for a period of time and the voltage will discharge by itself?
Mike
Most TV sets, after sitting for a short time, will discharge the high voltage on the picture tubes because of a high value resistor called a bleeder resistor built into the high voltage distribution block or flyback.
What is considered a "short time"? I would rather not get a surprise jolt when I work on the system.
A couple of days, but you can discharge a picture tube by grounding a skinny flat blade screw driver and carefully sliding the end up underneath the high voltage cup.
It looks like there is a high voltage cup on each CRT, is that correct? What kind of voltage is coming out of the cup, should I expect a spark or anything when I ground it?
Finally, when you say to ground it, are you talking about to the chasis of the TV or a connection to the outside of the house? (i.e. the grounding circuit of the AC wall outlet) The TV will be unplugged, obviously, when I perform the work.
Mike, you attach a small clip lead to the screwdriver shaft and the other end to the metal or wire strap around the picture tube. Why are you discharging the picture tubes anyway? There really is no need if your not going to change the tubes.
Well, the service manual says to discharge the CRTs when you are replacing them. Since there appears to be a burn in issue with the TV, the solution, from what I understand is to replace the CRTs.
I have a 4.3 picture that is darker than the 16.9 wide screen with 6 inch vertical sections on both sides that are noticeably brighter than the center section.
"1. Removal of the CRT
Caution! High voltage should be completely discharged prior to CRT removal. Since the CRTs receive high voltage from the Flyback transformer, discharge by shorting the open end of the respective high voltage cable to chassis ground."
Mike
Ok , Ok, Ok Yea you need to do as I said before. Discharge them first. But do one tube at a time and start with the center green tube first. It will be a lot easier for the convergence. Do the green first, reconfigure. Do one of the others, re converge, then do the last tube and reconfigure. Always perform the convergence center first with the CONVERGENCE YOKE plug off first. Then do the outer convergence.