Hitachi 51swx20b d940 blinking chirping

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icewave8
Hitachi 51swx20b d940 blinking chirping

Had a convergence problem, so switched out the convergence ICs. That fixed everything for a few hours, probably 3 hours.  Then the tv just shut off, and now i have no picture and no sound, but still turns on.  Took the back off, and the red light is on, along with 3 green ones. The last green light D940 is blinking and chirping.  Read other posts that said c707 and e994 were the problem. Switched out c707 and still out.  Ive been searching for 3 days to find E994 but cant find it.  Can someone help me out with this? Thanks,

Shane 

zapdbf
You probably still have

You probably still have convergence problems, the black jumper connecter closest to you from the back, going from the right board where the convergence ic;s are to the middle board,  flip it up, and see if the tv comes on. if it does you still have convergence problems. let me know how it works and i will give you more information about secondary convergence problems.

d. w.
Yes it does come on, but

Yes it does come on, but still with no picture or sound.  Also d940 stops blinking and chirping, and just stays a steady light just like all the other green and red lights. 

zapdbf
ok you still have a

ok you still have a convergence problem.  The chirping you hear is the switch mode transformer trying to supply enough current to the convergence circuit, when it cannot achieve balance it will stop and re-try to supply power. The actual chirp is coming from the coils as they reach max current capacity.  When you lifted that connector, the power  to the convergence circuit was removed. This removed the load on the power supply which allowed it to come up to the proper voltage without maxing out the supply’s current capasity.   You may have blown a fuse on the power supply board. The microprocessor is sensing the loss power to the convergence circuit and muting the video and audio.(some models you can get the picture to come up but not all) The convergence ic's have failed again. There are several possible explanations for your problem.The most common problem is that the ic's you used were inferior this problem is such a prolific problem among all brands of big screen tvs.  There is a huge market out there selling horrible ic's for as little as $6.00 each. Praying on the inexperienced repair.  I know i have been through this before. At our shop i got them to only buy our ic's from pioneer where they are known high quality. But the only problem with this is they are about 30.00 each. But they work! The parts store is a good place to find them as well. Also if the original ic's were stk392-110 or stk392-120 replace with either stk392-150 or stk392-180.The second possible issue is that you did not replace the heat sink compound on the back of the ic’s this will cause the new ic’s to quickly overheat and short. The third possibility witch I have only seen with Pioneer and Hitachi is that you can over steer the convergence causing the ic’s to draw more current than is necessary to converge the set, there are other methods designed to get the convergence close to correct without using the convergence to get it right. You may need to use these methods before you attempt to do a digital convergence. In every case that have had repeat failures, one of the three above problems needed addressed to fix the set and keep it from coming back. I have worked on 100’s of tv’s with this problem. This information is from my experience not guess work! 

d. w.
Thanks Zapdbf for the

Thanks Zapdbf for the comments, I bought another ic from another company that had good reviews on another site, and 3 times as much as the first ic.  Installed with plenty of heat sink and have the same result.  My roommate who is actually doing most of the soldier, told me that when he installed the first one, which actually worked for 3 hours, he removed a stk392-150 but only replaced it with a stk392-110.  The next 2 ics we bought and installed were stk392-150s though.  Im thinking something burnt out before the ic and isnt giving it any power at all since when we turn the tv on, one ic and heat shield gets hot, while the one that we replaced with the wrong ic stays cool.  Obviously havent noticed anything burned out, just wandering if you have any ideas on what would have absorbed the extra current if the stk392-110 couldnt handle it.  Maybe a diagram of the circuit flow to that ic from the black jumper connector? Thanks again,

topboi
zapdbf, I after the whole

zapdbf, I after the whole long prosses of changing the coolant in my Philips
"55 TV 55PP9532/17 Everything was loong beter and I ran for a Week befor I was able to get in and do the Proper Convergence for this TV. So last Night I was in the Middle of setting the Manaual convergence in SAM got to the center of the screen than like a spring being released the green video cross parten curealed up and so I went back a few menus and selected restore factory setting and hit the right button the tv visualy shook than shut off. than when I tried to power it back up all I here is a Chirping sound and no Picture no Sound Did I somehow Fry the IC's or What would you think?

Thank you
Chris
[email protected]

bonuts
Hi. One of the resistors in

Hi. One of the resistors in my Hitachi calls for a 3.9 @ 1watt resistor. I couldn't find a 3.9 @ 1 watt, so I bought a 3.9 @ 5 watt. Will this be ok? It looks different, in that is not a cylinder shape like more resistors, rather a big honkin white box, about the size of a piece of gum. Thanks!

bonuts
sorry for the double post

sorry for the double post

Hi. One of the resistors in my Hitachi calls for a 3.9 @ 1watt resistor. I couldn't find a 3.9 @ 1 watt, so I bought a 3.9 @ 5 watt. Will this be ok? It looks different, in that is not a cylinder shape like more resistors, rather a big honkin white box, about the size of a piece of gum. Thanks!

Roze
Hey icewave8 my Hitachi tv is

Hey icewave8 my Hitachi tv is doing the exact same thing after I replaced the ic chips.I was woundering if you have found the solution??

 

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