I have a sony KP53XBR35 RP TV. I have a definite convergence problem from the research I have done here. I have already purchased a new RP (Sony KDS60A300). But wanted to give fixing this old set a try before giving it away or selling.
Here is the issue, I have soldered before and have an electrician friend who knows how to read schematics and use a multimeter. But he has never worked on TVs. I had thought with RP (non-tube sets) that the risk is a high voltage shock was not as high. But it sounds like from reading this board that it may be.
So I am wondering if I can at least try replacing the IC chips ($30-40 repair) safely. That is if the TV has been unplugged for 2 weeks now, would it be safe to at least remove the D board and solder in new ICs without risking my life? If that does not work then at least I tried.
If not, any suggestions for someone in the Chicago area? I already called a TV repair shop and they wanted $350. For that, I will just sell the TV to someone for $200 and let them see if they can get it working (with same warning about working with TV sets).
Someone mentioned, I think, it was that a high school or community college where they repair/experiment on your set for free. But that may not be an option considering the size of this 53" RP.
You experienced folks, let me know what you think.
As far as getting shocked is concerned you have to be aware of the capacitors and the high voltage leads, the reason i put that in my blog is because i want to make sure everybody knows this. There are circuits inside the Sony that will drain off these voltages when the set it turned off, but you can't rely on them to function correctly. If you are reasonably carful you should be fine. I just wanted to make sure that people reading this were warned. Being a tech i have pulled boards out and started to work on them and got a nice little jolt from them, you cuss and swear at it, then go and find the cap that caused you to tingle and discharge it by placing a screwdriver across it. I use the on hand rule only put one hand inside the set and make sure your other hand is not grounded or your body is not grounded. if you use both hands and one is on the chassis ground and the other touches something with a little current in it, the voltage can travel from one hand out through the other hand across your heart. you want to prevent this. When i have gotten shocked it is usually in the finger and out the thumb. You can feel it.
Thanks Mark, I would imagine that capacitors should normally dissipate a charge over time. And if this set is unplugged for 2 weeks shouldn't that give it enough time?
I understand your concern when the other fellow was asking if he needed the set plugged in to measure with a multimeter, as it was obvious he did not know much about electronics. I do know the basics and have soldered, but I also know the dangers of TVs. So I wanted to make sure.
Your tips are great and I will make sure to stay away from those big caps and use one hand.
In terms of removing the D board, do you need to take many other boards out? If so do any high voltage leads need to be unplugged? And once unplugged, for safety, where do you lay the plug/wire, that is are they safe once unplugged?
Also do high voltage leads still have juice after the set has been unplugged and if so what about after 2 weeks?
Sorry for all the questions, just want to be as careful as I can and know as much as I can before I stick my hands in the set. And since I already have a replacement TV, I can take my time with this project.
I will make sure to send you some pictures via your email for your blog. Anything specific you would like pics of?
I would imagine that capacitors should normally dissipate a charge over time. And if this set is unplugged for 2 weeks shouldn't that give it enough time? - no, caps can stay charged for an indefinate length of time.
In terms of removing the D board, do you need to take many other boards out? If so do any high voltage leads need to be unplugged? And once unplugged, for safety, where do you lay the plug/wire, that is are they safe once unplugged? - the "D" borad is removable by it's self, it has the 30,000 volt second anode lead on it, when you remove the lead try touching it to the chassis. But not on any shield around sensitive electronics. Usaly like i sad if the tv is working fine, the voltage will be gone off of this lead, but i will not gaurentee it.
I will make sure to send you some pictures via your email for your blog. Anything specific you would like pics of? - yes the yellow fuses on the "G" board. And the view from the back of "D" board.
I"m a new member and in kind of a pickle myself. I cant' start a new thread as every time i try my computer freezes up so i'm going to post here until i figure out what's wrong. I have the same model 53xbr35 and i keep burning what i believe are resistors but not so sure now if they are pico fuses. Their location is at r1812 and r1728 on the D board where all the fine tune settings are. I've checked all the fuses and all are good now but it did have a blown fuse on the bottom fuse location as there are two one on top of the other. Fixed that and it worked find for awhile except for having a blue convergence problem. The blue just wouldn't come into shape and none of the adjustments would work except to make it larger or skewed way out of sync. i've tested the convergence chip things and they all seem to meet the specs i've gotten by reading posts in here so i would like to ask if anyone can help as to that belongs on the circuit board at the above mentioned locations. Tried to work with what a guy said was the right ones at radio shack but they burned right up too and the old ones are so burned i can't tell what they actualy looked like as for color codes and bands etc. If anyone knows what belongs at these locations and can possibly send me a pic so i can see what i need for sure i would greatly appreciate it thank you.