Hi,
We have had our Sony Wide Screen for only about 4yrs. It is the model KP-57WS500. The TV starts out with an ok image and slowly turns to an all blue screen. We leave it on and within about an hour we have an alright image appear.
Just since the last couple of days, it now goes blue alot quicker and will not warm up but completely shuts off. There is a red light that blinks at where it says timer. The red light blinks continously.
Is this a fix i could try? Has this model had many problems? This TV is not old and was very expensive, please help.
May be an extreme case of the optical block problem. See link below.
http://esupport.sony.com/perl/news-item.pl?news_id=127&mdl=KDF60XS955
This bulliten he is talking about is for the LCD TV sets, your model is a tube type set. Your problem is in the picture tube or the Blue drive circuit. Best way to test the set would be to unplug it, open the front cover behind the speaker grill. gently pull off the blue picture tube drive board, right next to the blue tube you will see another drive board. This is from the green tube. Switch around the two boards and see if the blue tube does the same, if it does, it is going to be the blue tube is bad, If the green does it now, then you know the fault is is the blue drive circuit. This problem could be a bad capacitor or transistor on the blue driver board or could even be the main RGB drive from the video jungle IC. Be very carefull with this, as those Picture tube drive boards have alot of juice going to them when they are alive and on, so do not handle them while the set is on and plugged in. Good Luck, and let us know how you make out with this TV set.
Hey there,
Just stumbled across this message while looking to resolve the same problem as above except with an all RED screen.
Looked to swap from GRN to RED however the drive board is a little different.
Any other recommendation available for isolating the problem between the RED tube/Drive Board components or the main RGB drive from the video jungle IC (where can I locate that board?).
Thanks, sparkk
According to the schematic, the board should fit on the CRT, as they all have the same base.
Thanks for quick response,
The biggest notable difference is the in out plug for the 200v, gnd and 2 heater wires that jump from the BLU driver board CN7303 to the GRN driver board CN7203 (in connector) then go out on CN7204 to the RED in at CN7103 (RED has no out connector and the harness won't reach from blue to the RED if I swap the GRN & RED cards). Additionally, the GRN driver board has a small neon bulb on a corner of it.
Upon further investigation I see that the source plug from CN8022 is long enough so I can swap BLU with RED and just move the CN8022 over to that side and leave the GRN in place.
I'll wait for your affirmation before proceeding. I don't think GRN driver board cares if voltage is in via CN7204 VS CN7203.
Thanks for the support. sparkk
Follow-up - I swapped BLU with RED Driver boards and RED still driving hard. Then I went ahead and removed CN7102 (RED signal in) and RED Tube still driving hard, suspect bad tube.
If anything else let me know, thanks
Yeppers the tube is bad. sorry but you f=determo=inded the tube bad, Good luck.
Hello,
Would i be able to purchase parts for this fix as a consumer?
This may be beyond my ability to try and repair. What would be a ball park estimate for a professional to fix our problem?
I really appreciate all this useful information.
Mark
I have not checked to see if the tube is bad.
Could you give me an idea of what each repair could cost?
I am not sure i want to try and tackle this.
Respectfully,
Mark
The picture tube should cost around 4 to 5 hundred bucks and the board repair or replacement should run you about 250 to 350. depending on who does the repsir and where you live.