Which board did you resolder, the left hand or right hand one, or just all of it? Which one is the power/deflection board? Getting it far enough out to change the flyback was trouble enough, getting the actual board out could be quite a mess.
Is your Pro119 still working after that fix? I noticed mine started doing this after I moved it from the house it'd been at since new.
I don't have the manuals but if you have it could you scan the page(s) pertaining to the power? Sounds like we have precisely the same problem.
I had a repair guy solder the whole board. Since there really is no way of telling what connection is bad. Yes it is working very well, no issues, it was done 2-3 months ago
Just an update...I resoldered the entire board back in late December, and everything has been fine...right up to late June. The same symptom reappeared for a day or two, and has now gone away again. It may be time to get out the old soldering iron again sometime soon.
flyforfun said: Which board did you solder, specifically? Just pretty much went through and soldered every connection on the underside of the board? Does anyone have the manual in a .pdf form you could share?
I soldered the one with the flyback transformer. I wonder if there's some component(s) that are constantly cycling between warm and cold enough to gradually break the connection. Just a guess.
I have a pdf of the service manual that I downloaded from somewhere. It's big, 12Mb, but I'd be happy to try to send it if you give me an addy. I did a Google search to find it originally, had to download it in numerous chunks, and then used some utility to consolidate it back together. Sorry, I don't remember the site, or the details, but I'll bet it will turn up if you do a little searching.
So the board that the flyback is physically mounted on, or the small board that the long red cord leads to? How easy was it to get that big (12x12) board removed from the drawer so you could resolder it? I agree- the constant use of the components (and shitty Pioneer labor) contributes to eventual failure- moving the TV I'm sure doesn't help either.
I'd appreciate the manual, I tried to DL one too and couldn't get all the chunks either.
My email is overspeed 550 at gmail dot com , no spaces obviously. I think it could help me better understand this setup.
Should have mentioned, the flyback has 10 prongs in a circle under it- 2 of the prongs were unsoldered when I pulled it out, like they never had solder. I red did them when I re-installed, but it sounds like it had nothing to do with it.
flyforfun said: So the board that the flyback is physically mounted on, or the small board that the long red cord leads to? How easy was it to get that big (12x12) board removed from the drawer so you could resolder it? I agree- the constant use of the components (and shitty Pioneer labor) contributes to eventual failure- moving the TV I'm sure doesn't help either. I'd appreciate the manual, I tried to DL one too and couldn't get all the chunks either. My email is overspeed 550 at gmail dot com , no spaces obviously. I think it could help me better understand this setup.
The big board wasn't all that difficult, once I found all of the screws. I remember having to take off the front panel to get at a connector, but even that wasn't so bad.
I've emailed a manual to the addy you gave above. Hopefully gmail will accept a 12mb file. Yahoo limits attachments to 10mb, so I had to use another account. The manual had a few helpful drawings that guided me to screw locations...so that will help some too.
Gary B, on my power board, there's a wire that goes up to the lenses (if I remember correctly) that is soldered to the power bord, with no disconnect. Did you just unsolder this wire, and resolder to get the board out and back in? Or what was your procedure? If you could give a blow-by-blow of removal and replacement, it would be a real help to us from someone who's been there, done that.
I think that wire was a ground, and as I recall, I had to first remove the cosmetic cover over the speakers in the lower front of the TV (this just pulls off). That exposed a cover that I had to take off by removing a few screws. Then the ground wire was connected to a spring that wrapped around the lenses. The connector slid off quite easily once I got to it and could see how it attached.
So I removed the power board completely, thank you very much to Gary for the owner's manual!
I'm taking the board into work tonight and having the simulator technicians take a look at all of the solders...if they can fix a Gulfstream 5 business jet simulator, then they can fix a TV board, I hope at least.
If not and this thing is dead? What to do with it? Do you think parting it out would make some cash in parts, since the whole TV is in such short supply?
If your techs can't fix the board, I think there's a comment earlier in this post somewhere about a board repair facility that might specialize in such things. Perhaps worth a look.
If your techs CAN fix the board, would you mind sharing what they found? It would help a lot to know what to zero in on the next time mine breaks.
The techs last night spot did some bad looking solder joints. I reinstalled, nothing...still shut down. It takes all of my discipline not to beat the TV to death. If their eyes didn't spot anything, I'm at a loss. I refuse to let the mobile repair guys come over for $500.
A new power supply board is like $380, should I invest? Or would this TV be worth alot more in little pieces, like if I sold the tubes, the boards, etc etc. I'm fed up with it and I can have a nice 50" Plasma for nearly the price of all the parts/labor I need for this stupid thing. What would you do?
I have half a mind to part it out, then table-saw the TV cabinet down to just above the speaker grille level, then put the top of the TV back on it, then use it as a pedistal for my new Plasma- seeing as I have the matching attached shelves for either side, I don't want to lose those.
Almost exact issue as other comments. Except that our Pioneer Elite Pro 115 powers up without issue. We experience the "pop" in the speakers as described and the screen goes blank, power supply light goes to red. This may happen 15 minutes into use, 1 hour into use, or not at all during an evening use of the set. Once the issue occurs, if we push that button on the front, let the set rest about 3 minutes or so, push it again, light turns green and we are back in business. The problem is that this process can repeat in 15 minutes or not for days. You just never know what you are gonna get when you turn the set on. Might get a whole movie in, might just make it thru a commercial break. If we push the power supply button off and then try pushing it back on immediately, it flickers from red to green over and over. But if you give it just a few minutes, she powers right back up.
I was hoping that since our set actually "works" (for an unspecified length of time) that I may not be doomed to a $500 repair. Any chance we just need to have something cleaned or tuned? Please advise. Thanks in advance for your assistance.
We've had trouble with our 119 on and off for several years (see 2007 and 2008 posts above). The set was doing exactly what you described SoCali...on for a while, then off, with a speaker pop and the power light turning red. Seemed like it was worse when the weather was warm, and somewhat better when cool.
Once again I took it apart and this time I touched up every solder connection on the power supply board (as described above). It didn't fix it this time. Still the exact same symptom.
I gave up. Broke my heart, but I hauled the set to the recycling center and bought a new one. I just couldn't justify spending any more time or money on a non-digital set. I now wonder whether a component was going bad, and the heat of touching up the solder extended its life a bit, but didn't really fix anything.
Best of luck...but prepare yourself...this might be the beginning of the end.
I had the board resoldered and it fixed it. Apparently this happens a lot to these. No parts, resoldered the whole board and it fixed it
Wow, thanks for the speedy reply dude!
Which board did you resolder, the left hand or right hand one, or just all of it? Which one is the power/deflection board? Getting it far enough out to change the flyback was trouble enough, getting the actual board out could be quite a mess.
Is your Pro119 still working after that fix? I noticed mine started doing this after I moved it from the house it'd been at since new.
I don't have the manuals but if you have it could you scan the page(s) pertaining to the power? Sounds like we have precisely the same problem.
I had a repair guy solder the whole board. Since there really is no way of telling what connection is bad. Yes it is working very well, no issues, it was done 2-3 months ago
Just an update...I resoldered the entire board back in late December, and everything has been fine...right up to late June. The same symptom reappeared for a day or two, and has now gone away again. It may be time to get out the old soldering iron again sometime soon.
Which board did you solder, specifically? Just pretty much went through and soldered every connection on the underside of the board?
Does anyone have the manual in a .pdf form you could share?
I soldered the one with the flyback transformer. I wonder if there's some component(s) that are constantly cycling between warm and cold enough to gradually break the connection. Just a guess.
I have a pdf of the service manual that I downloaded from somewhere. It's big, 12Mb, but I'd be happy to try to send it if you give me an addy. I did a Google search to find it originally, had to download it in numerous chunks, and then used some utility to consolidate it back together. Sorry, I don't remember the site, or the details, but I'll bet it will turn up if you do a little searching.
Good luck!!
So the board that the flyback is physically mounted on, or the small board that the long red cord leads to? How easy was it to get that big (12x12) board removed from the drawer so you could resolder it? I agree- the constant use of the components (and shitty Pioneer labor) contributes to eventual failure- moving the TV I'm sure doesn't help either.
I'd appreciate the manual, I tried to DL one too and couldn't get all the chunks either.
My email is overspeed 550 at gmail dot com , no spaces obviously. I think it could help me better understand this setup.
Should have mentioned, the flyback has 10 prongs in a circle under it- 2 of the prongs were unsoldered when I pulled it out, like they never had solder. I red did them when I re-installed, but it sounds like it had nothing to do with it.
The big board wasn't all that difficult, once I found all of the screws. I remember having to take off the front panel to get at a connector, but even that wasn't so bad.
I've emailed a manual to the addy you gave above. Hopefully gmail will accept a 12mb file. Yahoo limits attachments to 10mb, so I had to use another account. The manual had a few helpful drawings that guided me to screw locations...so that will help some too.
Again, good luck.
nope did not get a service manual but if I know the model number maybe I ALREADY HAVE IT?
The model number is the Pro-119, same TV as the poster. IF you have it, that'd be great!
I didn't get an email earlier with it, perhaps it bounced?
Gary B, on my power board, there's a wire that goes up to the lenses (if I remember correctly) that is soldered to the power bord, with no disconnect. Did you just unsolder this wire, and resolder to get the board out and back in? Or what was your procedure? If you could give a blow-by-blow of removal and replacement, it would be a real help to us from someone who's been there, done that.
I think that wire was a ground, and as I recall, I had to first remove the cosmetic cover over the speakers in the lower front of the TV (this just pulls off). That exposed a cover that I had to take off by removing a few screws. Then the ground wire was connected to a spring that wrapped around the lenses. The connector slid off quite easily once I got to it and could see how it attached.
I hope that helps.
So I removed the power board completely, thank you very much to Gary for the owner's manual!
I'm taking the board into work tonight and having the simulator technicians take a look at all of the solders...if they can fix a Gulfstream 5 business jet simulator, then they can fix a TV board, I hope at least.
If not and this thing is dead? What to do with it? Do you think parting it out would make some cash in parts, since the whole TV is in such short supply?
If your techs can't fix the board, I think there's a comment earlier in this post somewhere about a board repair facility that might specialize in such things. Perhaps worth a look.
If your techs CAN fix the board, would you mind sharing what they found? It would help a lot to know what to zero in on the next time mine breaks.
Best of luck!
The techs last night spot did some bad looking solder joints. I reinstalled, nothing...still shut down. It takes all of my discipline not to beat the TV to death. If their eyes didn't spot anything, I'm at a loss. I refuse to let the mobile repair guys come over for $500.
A new power supply board is like $380, should I invest? Or would this TV be worth alot more in little pieces, like if I sold the tubes, the boards, etc etc. I'm fed up with it and I can have a nice 50" Plasma for nearly the price of all the parts/labor I need for this stupid thing. What would you do?
I have half a mind to part it out, then table-saw the TV cabinet down to just above the speaker grille level, then put the top of the TV back on it, then use it as a pedistal for my new Plasma- seeing as I have the matching attached shelves for either side, I don't want to lose those.
Almost exact issue as other comments. Except that our Pioneer Elite Pro 115 powers up without issue. We experience the "pop" in the speakers as described and the screen goes blank, power supply light goes to red. This may happen 15 minutes into use, 1 hour into use, or not at all during an evening use of the set. Once the issue occurs, if we push that button on the front, let the set rest about 3 minutes or so, push it again, light turns green and we are back in business. The problem is that this process can repeat in 15 minutes or not for days. You just never know what you are gonna get when you turn the set on. Might get a whole movie in, might just make it thru a commercial break. If we push the power supply button off and then try pushing it back on immediately, it flickers from red to green over and over. But if you give it just a few minutes, she powers right back up.
I was hoping that since our set actually "works" (for an unspecified length of time) that I may not be doomed to a $500 repair. Any chance we just need to have something cleaned or tuned? Please advise. Thanks in advance for your assistance.
We've had trouble with our 119 on and off for several years (see 2007 and 2008 posts above). The set was doing exactly what you described SoCali...on for a while, then off, with a speaker pop and the power light turning red. Seemed like it was worse when the weather was warm, and somewhat better when cool.
Once again I took it apart and this time I touched up every solder connection on the power supply board (as described above). It didn't fix it this time. Still the exact same symptom.
I gave up. Broke my heart, but I hauled the set to the recycling center and bought a new one. I just couldn't justify spending any more time or money on a non-digital set. I now wonder whether a component was going bad, and the heat of touching up the solder extended its life a bit, but didn't really fix anything.
Best of luck...but prepare yourself...this might be the beginning of the end.
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