This has been great info. I've downloaded the file in case I ever need it. I'd like to shift the discussion to the life of the bulb. After 2 years, 1 month of ownership, I heard the dreaded pop last night, and my picture was no more. I went to the store I purchased the tv from and they referred me to the company. The company referred me to a distributor. I called to order the bulb which will cost me $ 250 plus $44 shipping plus sales tax. It'll take 5 to 7 days for the distributor to get it and then they will ship to me. I was a bit miffed so I called Toshiba back to lodge a complaint with them re: the life of the bulb. I was told by the sales people it would last me 5-7 years which I thought was reasonable. Two years, in my opinion is not. This is a tv I paid $2400 for! I think that's a lot of money. I was reluctant to go LCD or Plasma because of the extra cost then. I hope I haven't made a mistake.
So, I've read a number of other discussions about the bulb issues, but most seem to deal with other models and those problems seem to be plentiful. There was a lot of discussion about the actual hours of the bulb, which I've never checked. Does any one know how I can do this with this model(44NHM84)?
And there was a lot of discussion around keeping the bulb bright or low. Does anyone have any advice around this?
And FYI when I spoke to the Toshiba people, the advice I was given around proloning the life of your bulb is to let it cool down 30-60 minutes before turning the tv on again. Never turn it off and on as this will really reduce the life of the bulb. So, if you accidently touch the wrong thing on a remote, or have a child who gets to the set and turns it off, never turn it back on right away. Apparently, that's very bad. I asked if this was in the owner's manual, and apparently, it is not. Does anyone have any experience with this?
Bulb life is supposed to be around 8000-10000 hours (at about 1500 hours a year, that puts you into the 5-7 year range). When my tv went kaput, I ordered a new bulb on e-bay ($180ish plus $25 shipping) and had it 3 days later. Note that I just bought the bulb (not the case that the bulb goes in)...so that saved me some money (took the old bulb out of its case and inserted new bulb). You can check the amount of "on time" the bulb has had in the service menu (somewhere in the beginnings of this thread describes how to get to the service menu via a remote control key combination..see below)...mine had 3000 hours on it, however the bulb (much to my dismay) was not the problem. Now I had two bulbs. (I recently sold the TV and extra bulbs due to having replaced it with a Plasma).
Like any high intensity bulb, it is best to get the bulb up to operating temperature before shutting it down, and best to allow it to cool before re-energizing it. Some systems disable the ability to turn the bulb back on "too early", however these TVs do not (ie, some projectors, lighting systems, etc do). All that said, there will be occasions where these rules can't be followed, and that should be ok as long as it is not the norm...I agree, that should be in the owners manual as a "best practice" or something. The best place for DLP rear projection tvs (well, for the bulbs anyway) like the Toshiba is in a bar where it runs constantly, and then is shutdown at night. I would expect that type of usage to get most of the 8000-10000 hour runtime out of the bulb (but not 5-7 years...if you catch my drift).
I am not aware of a "bright vs low" setting for this model, unless you mean to lower the brightness setting...which I would recommend that you set it for optimal viewing instead. A number of bulbs that have "popped" prematurely may have been due to placing the tv in an enclosed space (heat related)...but I can't confirm that. Mine was in a built-in wall unit, when the mirror problem presented itself (assumed to be heat related ... in a way).
Hope this helps....
-Tom
Found the key combination...
hold menu on TV AND menu on remote at the same time for about 10 seconds.
Tomolly, thanks for the info, and if you have other manufactirer specs and listings on about how long the lamps should last, why not do a tutorial and submit it here for publications?
Don 421 - thanks for the comments on the tutorial. I had fun doing it - I kind of enjoy taking things to bits and seeing how they work.
I appreciate your starting this thread all that while ago. Without it I probably wouldn't have bothered any further with the TV. Why can't more companies provide this level of support for the customer base? I appreciate that they probably don't want to encourage their customers to take their products apart, but just providing problem diagnostics on line would be a good start.
>And there was a lot of discussion around keeping the bulb bright or low
Flossie11 - perhaps they're referencing the options in the set up Menu. You can elect for the screen display to be one of various preinstalled settings that control the brightness - Daylight, Normal, Movie, Night, etc. Try bringing up the Menu and playing with the settings. I keep my TV in the family room in the basement where there are no windows, so a low brightness setting works fine .
hanks for the advice. I never really played with the remote much, but I will try when I get my new bulb. I looked on ebay and found the price for the bulb alone to be the same as the one with the case. I have to figure in shipping to Canada and exchange rate, but I will check ebay periodically now to see if I can get a bulb to keep on stand by.
Flossie11 said: Tomolly and Goberg hanks for the advice. I never really played with the remote much, but I will try when I get my new bulb. I looked on ebay and found the price for the bulb alone to be the same as the one with the case. I have to figure in shipping to Canada and exchange rate, but I will check ebay periodically now to see if I can get a bulb to keep on stand by.
Make sure you search on the Part number (TBL4-LMP or AZ684020). Quote from the store I bought mine from "These are Exact OEM DLP replacement bulbs"...sells for $189.95 plus 9.95 S/h.
I agree to "be careful: The store I bought mine from listed this warning
Be carefull with other sellers offering a bulb made by Osram. The Osram bulb was not designed to work with your set.It will not be bright like the original. It will make the power supply over heat and it will cost you in the long run. Don't take my word for it, take a look at your original bulb and see for yourself.
They warrant the bulb for 1 year after purchase (exchange only). I have had mine installed (granted the TV is now owned by a buddy of mine) for 6 months with no problems. The original bulb with 3000 hours on it is on standby (I gave it to my buddy along with the TV). The bulbs looked identical (markings etc) in every way. The Store is "Remotes&More". the seller is e_TechParts (who has 14,528 feedback @ 100% positive...wow).
If you can get the case and bulb combo for around $200 (or about the same $), then I would just do that...I just couldn't find it anywhere for less than $300 at the time (granted, that's US shipping etc).
Tomolly said: Here is a link to a zipped version of the service manuals (circuit diagrams etc). I bought it earlier this year when I started having problems, now comes to you all at the low price of free. It's about 15 MB (contains 2 PDF files). http://www.chrisdicockers.com/44NHM84... enjoy! -TomTomolly:
Tomolly: You are a lifesaver on the shadow problem. My set is just 6 months out of warranty-I can view in normal square size, but expanded size has the 4-5 in shadow on the left. NOW I know why and what to do about it. I have to wait until AFTER Sept. 10 when I have the opening MNFootball party at my place-but then, my Bro who is a retired tech from QUEST COMMUNICATION, with your manual in hand, will tackle the repair of the dreaded light tunnel. Once again, what would you recommend for the best high temp adhesive for this task. Thanks for your assistance in providing this valuable help.
Tomolly: Once again, what would you recommend for the best high temp adhesive for this task. Thanks for your assistance in providing this valuable help.
I used Loctite Xtreme Repair (about $4 at Home Depot, or other type store).
Very high temperature application range (up to 400 degrees Fahrenheit)
Works on leather, wood, china, rubber, metal, and many plastics
Interestingly it doesn't mention glass (I noted that some online sellers indicate glass as an ideal surface for this product), however on the packaging there is a banner that says "aquarium safe" and on the back it indicates that it bonds seals and repairs aquarium glass. So the orignal failure was due to a glass mirror coming unglued from a metal housing (presumably due to heat)....so I grabbed something that can handle heat, and bond to metal and glass.
Gobbeg used Elmer's Probond with similar success. I don't know a lot about it, however it appears to be working just as well.
Most projection bulbs run at full intensely, all the time, and the brightness is adjusted using electronics.. Amount of light the chip reflects. So adjusting brightness is doing nothing to save the bulb.
If someone can get a schematic...Check the voltage to the bulb. If voltage to the bulb, varies.....then I am all wet. If voltage is constent, then I am right.
I have owned one of these 44NHM84 sets for 2 years now. About 2 weeks ago i noticed that it appeared to misconverged, almost like an older CRT projector. I turned it off then turned it back on about 2 min later. It was fine at that point.
This past Friday night it came on very dim and within a minute if simply went dark, no audio, etc. It would not come on after that point so i figured it was a lamp failure. I work in professional AV and am well acquainted with DLP technology, so today when the repair shop called and said the problem was a lamp failure AND a failed light engine I was shocked. I have sold DLP videowalls to utilities and highway authorities and one of the big selling features is the DLP's MTBF (mean time between failure) which is usually rated in tens of thousands of hours for 24/7 applications. Variable power level DLPs can give users lamp life ranging from 6,000-10,000 hours, but a commercial grade light engine costs much more that a consumer grade unit does.
At this point, having read all of the information about the light tunnel and bad adhesives I am curious if Toshiba has taken any sort of official position on some of the definite design shortcomings of this TV.
I also purchased an extended warranty and tomorrow I'm going to call the provider to ask if i can renew it. In my case the repair would have cost $800.00 if I hadn't gotten the warranty. Smart money!
Lastly, I think you are all to be commended for the great level of support you've shared. I used to be able to re-tube projectors, but when I looked into that cabinet the other day I had no desire to go any further...but now that I have Gobbeg's first rate tutorial I feel that if something bad happens again, I could fix it.
Tomolly said: Here is a link to a zipped version of the service manuals (circuit diagrams etc). I bought it earlier this year when I started having problems, now comes to you all at the low price of free. It's about 15 MB (contains 2 PDF files). http://www.chrisdicockers.com/44NHM84... enjoy! -Tom
Tom,
Can you try that link? I tried to access it and got nowhere, but when i removed the /44NMH84 it brought me to a website for a couple that sells Cocker Spaniels. :) Cute dogs, but I don't think they are all that good with screwdrivers and I have pretty good evidence they are awful with a soldering iron.
Bob, I just gave the link a shot and got the file no problem, also went out via FTP and verified it was actually there (and not cached locally or something). If anyone else is having issues with this file, please let me know and I will investigate further (unzip and just post the PDFs or something).
Website is for my mom & dad's cocker spaniel breeding and show dogs (needless to say I ended up with one of them). I purchased the site space and the domain for them (they are retired), so I put a bunch of stuff up there too (behind the scenes) :)
Tomolly said: Bob, I just gave the link a shot and got the file no problem, also went out via FTP and verified it was actually there (and not cached locally or something). If anyone else is having issues with this file, please let me know and I will investigate further (unzip and just post the PDFs or something). Website is for my mom & dad's cocker spaniel breeding and show dogs (needless to say I ended up with one of them). I purchased the site space and the domain for them (they are retired), so I put a bunch of stuff up there too (behind the scenes) :)
Thanks Tom. I actually tried logging in from a different computer and found the link with no problems. Sorry my response took so long.
I have had this tv for aprox 3 years. I am starting to get a green tint and the picture moved to the right side when I turn the unit on. I then proceed to turn the unit off wait 30 seconds, turn it on and it goes back to normal. Anyone have a suggestion as to what might be wrong? I am hoping it's just the bulb. Please help I would hate to get another set after only 3 years.
mitchatwrk said: I have had this tv for aprox 3 years. I am starting to get a green tint and the picture moved to the right side when I turn the unit on. I then proceed to turn the unit off wait 30 seconds, turn it on and it goes back to normal. Anyone have a suggestion as to what might be wrong? I am hoping it's just the bulb. Please help I would hate to get another set after only 3 years.
In my completly non-professional opinion, I would say that if you can turn it off and on and it "fixes' itself, the problem is not related to the mirrors (or other mechanical type issue). Movement of the picture on-screen doesn't sound like a bulb (the bulb will either be on, off or dim, not green, and certainly would not "realign" itself when turned off and on etc). "Sounds" like the light engine or a projection problem.
I would start another thread outside of this one (as this thread focused on mirrors that come loose and how to fix). You may get a better response. This thread does have links to service manuals and how to "take the tv apart" instructions, which may prove helpful.
I have the 50inch toshiba DLP that just recently got the shadow at the top of the screen, about two inches from the top of the screen to the bottom of the shadow and goes all the way across the top. It is slightly wider at the right than at the left of the screen. Has anyone successfully used the totorial for the light tunnel repair on this size of TV? I would think its basically the same stuff, just a larger screen than the 44 inch shown in the tutorial. Any help??
Tomolly said: Interesting thread. I have the same model television and it was getting dimmer and dimmer. The manual indicated that the bulb needed replacing if no image or if brightness was poor. I bought a new bulb and put it in the TV and the result was EXACTLY the same. Very dim picture. I can see the whole picture (ie it is equally dim across the entire screen)...so it certainly wasn't the bulb. I got into the service menu (hold menu on TV AND menu on remote at the same time for about 10 seconds..be careful once you're in!) and checked the bulb hours (3110 hrs), I bought the TV in early January 2005..so almost exactly 24 months old. Not sure what to do...buying a plasma might be cheaper than repairing! I currently have it tore apart on my workbench hoping to find a dirty lense or something. I downloaded the service manual from a guy on eBay...let me know if anyone wants a copy (PDF format). It appears to be revision 1, so not all the service menu items match up, but the schematics and exploded views are accurate. I looked up the part number for the Light Engine on BestBuyParts.com and it appears to be $1053...yikes!
I know you posted this a long time ago but I was wondering if you could send me a copy of the service manual, that would be awesome because I was hoping to repair mine and that would be very helpful. My email is [email protected]
I have a 62hm195 Toshiba. I have the light engine problem. The light engine on this set has always been noisy, but a few days ago it decided to start screeching and the picture has gone to "black and white" and comes and goes. I bought this TV in 2005 and have already replaced two bulbs, neither one I have had to pay for. It will cost be around $1000 to replace and obviously I did not buy the extended warrenty, otherwise I wouldn't be as cranky! My question is this...is it worth repairing? Is this going to happen again in another couple of years? I had one repair guy tell me that more than likely that it would. If that is the case, without the extended warranty it would be better to buy another one with the warranty and move on, don't you think? Any and all comments would be apprecited. The big game for my husband and I is this weekend!! Doesn't it always happen that way!??
Well, assuming it is indeed the light engine and it costs $1000 to fix, and also assuming it will happen again (another $1000? parts availability in 2010?)...one can get a new Toshiba DLP 65HM167 for $2000 plus $299 3yr warranty (includes 1 bulb replacement) or $199 3 year warranty (no bulb) or $299 5 yr warranty (prices are from americanTV.com,and just as an example); and you get 1080p (vs 1080i/720p). I guess it's kinda your call (an extra $1300 plus tax and you are worry free for 5 yrs). I dumped mine and went plasma and lcd (panel) with warrantees...seems to me there are too many moving parts in the projection tvs to be reliable beyond 2 years (based on the various posts I have found). I'm sure I will eventually run into Plasma and LCD idiosyncrasies as well.
I just wanted to let you know that last month, one of the mirrors dropped and I had the shadow happen on the right side of the screen. I knew exactly what had happened thanks to this thread. However, I am not at all mechanically inclined, so I made some calls to local repair shops. I found a Toshiba authorized shop that would pick up the tv and repair it. It cost me $300. They didn't charge me for parts (ha, ha, the glue was all that was needed), just for labour. So, that's $750 invested in to this tv this year. It had better last.
I had the same problem, but I took it to the Toshiba authorized repair centre in Vancouver and got it fixed for just $160. It only needed a piece glued back in place. No parts and they fixed it in one day. So don't give up on your DLP too quickly. It may be fixable for a lot less than others have indicated.
Just checking in since this thread is still active. My repair of the light tunnel mirror using Elmer's Probond is holding up fine a year later.
Every year brings price reductions in TV technologies, including LCD, so if the DLP does get another problem I'm not sure I'll bother repairing it again unless it's a repeat of the mirror problem.
I considered gluing it myself, but was afraid of going in and damaging something. Clearly you didn't cause a problem. Can you describe how you got to the part which needed repair? The gluing part is pretty simple once you get there, but I would hate to damage some other part doing it. It would be good to know in case my repair fails. Thanks.
It's not easy to get to the part that needs fixing - you have to disassemble quite a chunk of the set to get there. The process is not trivial and takes some time, but is doable by anyone with a screwdriver and some careful organizing of parts.
My journey to the heart of the Toshiba is documented in a pdf that is referenced earlier in this thread back in July of last year. Tomolloy has posted it to a site and you can get to it if you go back to his July 11 post on page 3 of this thread. I tried to paste the link in here, but I can't get it to work for some reason.
My glue job [Loctite Extreme Repair] is still fully functional as well. I actually sold the TV about 1 week after fixing it since I had bought something to replace it, but my buddy who bought it states everything is performing flawlessly.
Wow, that is one amazing DIY fix it manual. If I learned one thing from it, it's to let a pro fix my TV. It really looks like a big job, but much appreciate the time and care that went into making this manual.
I'm a tv tech since 22 years.I'm sure your problem is the light tunnel.
It's a rectangular part which have 4 rectangular mirror(one on top,one on bottom,one at left side and one at right side(it form a square together).
this part it really easy to change.It's immediatly after the lamp and before the color wheel.
The true problem is the optical block (engine) is really hot and the glue of the mirror unglue and the mirror move and make obstruction to the light and make a shadow on the screen.
You just have to find the schematic on internet and find the dissasembly section.
it'a really easy to do.
if you have question send me a email. [email protected]
for 44nhm84 the part number is 72796068 (i take the number on the toshiba service website).
anyway when you remove the tunnel you will see one of the mirror is unglue.
i'm sure at 100% it's your problem.
After son in law replaced the lamp on their 50 inch Toshiba there has been a shadow in the lower right side when you are facing the t.v.. I wonder if the problem resulted when he laid the large t.v. on it's face to change the lamp. I don't know he did it that way as he just created a a lot of work for an easy job. so did he knock something loose doing it.
This has been great info. I've downloaded the file in case I ever need it. I'd like to shift the discussion to the life of the bulb. After 2 years, 1 month of ownership, I heard the dreaded pop last night, and my picture was no more. I went to the store I purchased the tv from and they referred me to the company. The company referred me to a distributor. I called to order the bulb which will cost me $ 250 plus $44 shipping plus sales tax. It'll take 5 to 7 days for the distributor to get it and then they will ship to me. I was a bit miffed so I called Toshiba back to lodge a complaint with them re: the life of the bulb. I was told by the sales people it would last me 5-7 years which I thought was reasonable. Two years, in my opinion is not. This is a tv I paid $2400 for! I think that's a lot of money. I was reluctant to go LCD or Plasma because of the extra cost then. I hope I haven't made a mistake.
So, I've read a number of other discussions about the bulb issues, but most seem to deal with other models and those problems seem to be plentiful. There was a lot of discussion about the actual hours of the bulb, which I've never checked. Does any one know how I can do this with this model(44NHM84)?
And there was a lot of discussion around keeping the bulb bright or low. Does anyone have any advice around this?
And FYI when I spoke to the Toshiba people, the advice I was given around proloning the life of your bulb is to let it cool down 30-60 minutes before turning the tv on again. Never turn it off and on as this will really reduce the life of the bulb. So, if you accidently touch the wrong thing on a remote, or have a child who gets to the set and turns it off, never turn it back on right away. Apparently, that's very bad. I asked if this was in the owner's manual, and apparently, it is not. Does anyone have any experience with this?
Thanking in advance for advice and help.
Flossie11,
Bulb life is supposed to be around 8000-10000 hours (at about 1500 hours a year, that puts you into the 5-7 year range). When my tv went kaput, I ordered a new bulb on e-bay ($180ish plus $25 shipping) and had it 3 days later. Note that I just bought the bulb (not the case that the bulb goes in)...so that saved me some money (took the old bulb out of its case and inserted new bulb). You can check the amount of "on time" the bulb has had in the service menu (somewhere in the beginnings of this thread describes how to get to the service menu via a remote control key combination..see below)...mine had 3000 hours on it, however the bulb (much to my dismay) was not the problem. Now I had two bulbs. (I recently sold the TV and extra bulbs due to having replaced it with a Plasma).
Like any high intensity bulb, it is best to get the bulb up to operating temperature before shutting it down, and best to allow it to cool before re-energizing it. Some systems disable the ability to turn the bulb back on "too early", however these TVs do not (ie, some projectors, lighting systems, etc do). All that said, there will be occasions where these rules can't be followed, and that should be ok as long as it is not the norm...I agree, that should be in the owners manual as a "best practice" or something. The best place for DLP rear projection tvs (well, for the bulbs anyway) like the Toshiba is in a bar where it runs constantly, and then is shutdown at night. I would expect that type of usage to get most of the 8000-10000 hour runtime out of the bulb (but not 5-7 years...if you catch my drift).
I am not aware of a "bright vs low" setting for this model, unless you mean to lower the brightness setting...which I would recommend that you set it for optimal viewing instead. A number of bulbs that have "popped" prematurely may have been due to placing the tv in an enclosed space (heat related)...but I can't confirm that. Mine was in a built-in wall unit, when the mirror problem presented itself (assumed to be heat related ... in a way).
Hope this helps....
-Tom
Found the key combination...
hold menu on TV AND menu on remote at the same time for about 10 seconds.
Tomolly, thanks for the info, and if you have other manufactirer specs and listings on about how long the lamps should last, why not do a tutorial and submit it here for publications?
Don 421 - thanks for the comments on the tutorial. I had fun doing it - I kind of enjoy taking things to bits and seeing how they work.
I appreciate your starting this thread all that while ago. Without it I probably wouldn't have bothered any further with the TV. Why can't more companies provide this level of support for the customer base? I appreciate that they probably don't want to encourage their customers to take their products apart, but just providing problem diagnostics on line would be a good start.
>And there was a lot of discussion around keeping the bulb bright or low
Flossie11 - perhaps they're referencing the options in the set up Menu. You can elect for the screen display to be one of various preinstalled settings that control the brightness - Daylight, Normal, Movie, Night, etc. Try bringing up the Menu and playing with the settings. I keep my TV in the family room in the basement where there are no windows, so a low brightness setting works fine .
Tomolly and Goberg
hanks for the advice. I never really played with the remote much, but I will try when I get my new bulb. I looked on ebay and found the price for the bulb alone to be the same as the one with the case. I have to figure in shipping to Canada and exchange rate, but I will check ebay periodically now to see if I can get a bulb to keep on stand by.
I have found you go cheap with a bulb, you lose! Just my opinion.
Make sure you search on the Part number (TBL4-LMP or AZ684020). Quote from the store I bought mine from "These are Exact OEM DLP replacement bulbs"...sells for $189.95 plus 9.95 S/h.
I agree to "be careful: The store I bought mine from listed this warning
Be carefull with other sellers offering a bulb made by Osram. The Osram bulb was not designed to work with your set.It will not be bright like the original. It will make the power supply over heat and it will cost you in the long run. Don't take my word for it, take a look at your original bulb and see for yourself.
They warrant the bulb for 1 year after purchase (exchange only). I have had mine installed (granted the TV is now owned by a buddy of mine) for 6 months with no problems. The original bulb with 3000 hours on it is on standby (I gave it to my buddy along with the TV). The bulbs looked identical (markings etc) in every way. The Store is "Remotes&More". the seller is e_TechParts (who has 14,528 feedback @ 100% positive...wow).
If you can get the case and bulb combo for around $200 (or about the same $), then I would just do that...I just couldn't find it anywhere for less than $300 at the time (granted, that's US shipping etc).
I used Loctite Xtreme Repair (about $4 at Home Depot, or other type store).
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/produc...
(a quote):
Interestingly it doesn't mention glass (I noted that some online sellers indicate glass as an ideal surface for this product), however on the packaging there is a banner that says "aquarium safe" and on the back it indicates that it bonds seals and repairs aquarium glass. So the orignal failure was due to a glass mirror coming unglued from a metal housing (presumably due to heat)....so I grabbed something that can handle heat, and bond to metal and glass.
Gobbeg used Elmer's Probond with similar success. I don't know a lot about it, however it appears to be working just as well.
Good luck The Just,
-Tom
Some personal feelings on the bulb.
Most projection bulbs run at full intensely, all the time, and the brightness is adjusted using electronics.. Amount of light the chip reflects. So adjusting brightness is doing nothing to save the bulb.
If someone can get a schematic...Check the voltage to the bulb. If voltage to the bulb, varies.....then I am all wet. If voltage is constent, then I am right.
I have owned one of these 44NHM84 sets for 2 years now. About 2 weeks ago i noticed that it appeared to misconverged, almost like an older CRT projector. I turned it off then turned it back on about 2 min later. It was fine at that point.
This past Friday night it came on very dim and within a minute if simply went dark, no audio, etc. It would not come on after that point so i figured it was a lamp failure. I work in professional AV and am well acquainted with DLP technology, so today when the repair shop called and said the problem was a lamp failure AND a failed light engine I was shocked. I have sold DLP videowalls to utilities and highway authorities and one of the big selling features is the DLP's MTBF (mean time between failure) which is usually rated in tens of thousands of hours for 24/7 applications. Variable power level DLPs can give users lamp life ranging from 6,000-10,000 hours, but a commercial grade light engine costs much more that a consumer grade unit does.
At this point, having read all of the information about the light tunnel and bad adhesives I am curious if Toshiba has taken any sort of official position on some of the definite design shortcomings of this TV.
I also purchased an extended warranty and tomorrow I'm going to call the provider to ask if i can renew it. In my case the repair would have cost $800.00 if I hadn't gotten the warranty. Smart money!
Lastly, I think you are all to be commended for the great level of support you've shared. I used to be able to re-tube projectors, but when I looked into that cabinet the other day I had no desire to go any further...but now that I have Gobbeg's first rate tutorial I feel that if something bad happens again, I could fix it.
Cheers to all.
Bob Ohhhh
Tom,
Can you try that link? I tried to access it and got nowhere, but when i removed the /44NMH84 it brought me to a website for a couple that sells Cocker Spaniels. :) Cute dogs, but I don't think they are all that good with screwdrivers and I have pretty good evidence they are awful with a soldering iron.
Thanks,
Bob
Bob, I just gave the link a shot and got the file no problem, also went out via FTP and verified it was actually there (and not cached locally or something). If anyone else is having issues with this file, please let me know and I will investigate further (unzip and just post the PDFs or something).
Website is for my mom & dad's cocker spaniel breeding and show dogs (needless to say I ended up with one of them). I purchased the site space and the domain for them (they are retired), so I put a bunch of stuff up there too (behind the scenes) :)
Thanks Tom. I actually tried logging in from a different computer and found the link with no problems. Sorry my response took so long.
Thanks again. :)
I have had this tv for aprox 3 years. I am starting to get a green tint and the picture moved to the right side when I turn the unit on. I then proceed to turn the unit off wait 30 seconds, turn it on and it goes back to normal. Anyone have a suggestion as to what might be wrong? I am hoping it's just the bulb. Please help I would hate to get another set after only 3 years.
In my completly non-professional opinion, I would say that if you can turn it off and on and it "fixes' itself, the problem is not related to the mirrors (or other mechanical type issue). Movement of the picture on-screen doesn't sound like a bulb (the bulb will either be on, off or dim, not green, and certainly would not "realign" itself when turned off and on etc). "Sounds" like the light engine or a projection problem.
I would start another thread outside of this one (as this thread focused on mirrors that come loose and how to fix). You may get a better response. This thread does have links to service manuals and how to "take the tv apart" instructions, which may prove helpful.
Sorry mitchatwrk.
I have the 50inch toshiba DLP that just recently got the shadow at the top of the screen, about two inches from the top of the screen to the bottom of the shadow and goes all the way across the top. It is slightly wider at the right than at the left of the screen. Has anyone successfully used the totorial for the light tunnel repair on this size of TV? I would think its basically the same stuff, just a larger screen than the 44 inch shown in the tutorial. Any help??
I know you posted this a long time ago but I was wondering if you could send me a copy of the service manual, that would be awesome because I was hoping to repair mine and that would be very helpful. My email is [email protected]
The Manuals were posted earlier in this thread; here is the URL again:
http://www.chrisdicockers.com/44NHM84_SVM.zip
It's 15MB zipped...
Maybe a moderator can post all the links somewhere at the beginning of the thread :)
I have a 62hm195 Toshiba. I have the light engine problem. The light engine on this set has always been noisy, but a few days ago it decided to start screeching and the picture has gone to "black and white" and comes and goes. I bought this TV in 2005 and have already replaced two bulbs, neither one I have had to pay for. It will cost be around $1000 to replace and obviously I did not buy the extended warrenty, otherwise I wouldn't be as cranky! My question is this...is it worth repairing? Is this going to happen again in another couple of years? I had one repair guy tell me that more than likely that it would. If that is the case, without the extended warranty it would be better to buy another one with the warranty and move on, don't you think? Any and all comments would be apprecited. The big game for my husband and I is this weekend!! Doesn't it always happen that way!??
Well, assuming it is indeed the light engine and it costs $1000 to fix, and also assuming it will happen again (another $1000? parts availability in 2010?)...one can get a new Toshiba DLP 65HM167 for $2000 plus $299 3yr warranty (includes 1 bulb replacement) or $199 3 year warranty (no bulb) or $299 5 yr warranty (prices are from americanTV.com,and just as an example); and you get 1080p (vs 1080i/720p). I guess it's kinda your call (an extra $1300 plus tax and you are worry free for 5 yrs). I dumped mine and went plasma and lcd (panel) with warrantees...seems to me there are too many moving parts in the projection tvs to be reliable beyond 2 years (based on the various posts I have found). I'm sure I will eventually run into Plasma and LCD idiosyncrasies as well.
Hi everyone;
I just wanted to let you know that last month, one of the mirrors dropped and I had the shadow happen on the right side of the screen. I knew exactly what had happened thanks to this thread. However, I am not at all mechanically inclined, so I made some calls to local repair shops. I found a Toshiba authorized shop that would pick up the tv and repair it. It cost me $300. They didn't charge me for parts (ha, ha, the glue was all that was needed), just for labour. So, that's $750 invested in to this tv this year. It had better last.
I had the same problem, but I took it to the Toshiba authorized repair centre in Vancouver and got it fixed for just $160. It only needed a piece glued back in place. No parts and they fixed it in one day. So don't give up on your DLP too quickly. It may be fixable for a lot less than others have indicated.
Just checking in since this thread is still active. My repair of the light tunnel mirror using Elmer's Probond is holding up fine a year later.
Every year brings price reductions in TV technologies, including LCD, so if the DLP does get another problem I'm not sure I'll bother repairing it again unless it's a repeat of the mirror problem.
I considered gluing it myself, but was afraid of going in and damaging something. Clearly you didn't cause a problem. Can you describe how you got to the part which needed repair? The gluing part is pretty simple once you get there, but I would hate to damage some other part doing it. It would be good to know in case my repair fails. Thanks.
It's not easy to get to the part that needs fixing - you have to disassemble quite a chunk of the set to get there. The process is not trivial and takes some time, but is doable by anyone with a screwdriver and some careful organizing of parts.
My journey to the heart of the Toshiba is documented in a pdf that is referenced earlier in this thread back in July of last year. Tomolloy has posted it to a site and you can get to it if you go back to his July 11 post on page 3 of this thread. I tried to paste the link in here, but I can't get it to work for some reason.
Here is the link to the DIY fix it manual again:
http://www.chrisdicockers.com/Amateur%27s%20guide%20to%20fixing%20the%20...
My glue job [Loctite Extreme Repair] is still fully functional as well. I actually sold the TV about 1 week after fixing it since I had bought something to replace it, but my buddy who bought it states everything is performing flawlessly.
Wow, that is one amazing DIY fix it manual. If I learned one thing from it, it's to let a pro fix my TV. It really looks like a big job, but much appreciate the time and care that went into making this manual.
I'm a tv tech since 22 years.I'm sure your problem is the light tunnel.
It's a rectangular part which have 4 rectangular mirror(one on top,one on bottom,one at left side and one at right side(it form a square together).
this part it really easy to change.It's immediatly after the lamp and before the color wheel.
The true problem is the optical block (engine) is really hot and the glue of the mirror unglue and the mirror move and make obstruction to the light and make a shadow on the screen.
You just have to find the schematic on internet and find the dissasembly section.
it'a really easy to do.
if you have question send me a email. [email protected]
for 44nhm84 the part number is 72796068 (i take the number on the toshiba service website).
anyway when you remove the tunnel you will see one of the mirror is unglue.
i'm sure at 100% it's your problem.
After son in law replaced the lamp on their 50 inch Toshiba there has been a shadow in the lower right side when you are facing the t.v.. I wonder if the problem resulted when he laid the large t.v. on it's face to change the lamp. I don't know he did it that way as he just created a a lot of work for an easy job. so did he knock something loose doing it.
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