Toshiba 32" (CE32C10) picture problem

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alsdock
Toshiba 32" (CE32C10) picture problem

I would like to repair my TV if possible. During the past year or so, the following symptoms occured:
1) green sceen (had to unplug to reset)
2) the picture image has been stretched vertically but would correct after 5 minutes.
3) symptom (2) would correct if I smacked the TV on the cabinet
Unfortunately the vertical is now distorted or rather flickers. It will not correct by smacking, just seem to flicker a bit more. When initially on, picture is OK but then begins to flicker (distorted) again and cannot correct. Sound is fine. Sometimes upper half of picture is fine. Any ideas? I am somewhat handy, but wouldn't hesitate to have a pro fix it if I felt uneasy about trying the task myself.


alsdock
Now when I first turn on the

Now when I first turn on the tv, the picture's great, but only for about 3 minutes. It then starts to loose it's vertical stability. If I shut it off and then on, it's still not good. It seems that only after it sits off for awhile does it have a good picture. Unfortunately, it doesn't last for more than a few minutes. Does anyone have an idea what this could be?

alsdock
does anyone have an idea what

does anyone have an idea what it could be or what you can suggest?

Matt Whitlock
Possibly a loose solder or

Possibly a loose solder or cold solder connection somewhere, or maybe a bad cap near the vertical IC, but if you can't find it, you'll want to contact a technician. Repairing a TV is not only extremely difficult if you don't know what you're doing, but dangerous as well.

If you try to do it yourself, we only ask that you practice extreme caution. TechLore is not liable for any injury you may sustain while digging around inside your TV.

alsdock
Thanks. I know that there

Thanks. I know that there are high voltages present and want to become educated before I attempt anything. Which is why I'm here. Since the set is approx 11 yrs old, I've been told that it's time to throw it away, but the picture is great until a few minutes pass. Then the vertical begins to go (horiz white line in the center then distortion).
I'm slowly learning that it could be either a poor solder joint and/or a few bad capacitors in the vert control. Based from other tips I've read pertaining to a 27" Toshiba, the 2.2uF caps tend to break down over time and during temperature fluctuations. Can you shed additional light on this subject?

alsdock
12/10/05 Update: Haven't

12/10/05 Update: Haven't done a thing yet. Took the back off and vacuumed the dust out and identified C305 (2.2mfd-50V), C342 1mfd-50V) and C308 (220 mfd-35V) caps as possible culprits from other sites and complaints, as well as poor solder joints. TV works good when cold but after warm up (15 min or so) is begins to distort again. After the usual smacking with a 50% success rate, I now learned to power off then on. The TV then works fine. Most times for a few hours. If it goes again, I unplug and replug and the problem is gone. My gut tells me it's the caps, but where can I get these? Since the repair shop wants about $190, I have nothing to loose but to try a last ditch efforts before it goes to the dump. Any other suggestions or how to get the parts or problem fixed?

alsdock
alsdock said: 12/10/05 Update

alsdock said: 12/10/05 Update: Haven't done a thing yet. Took the back off and vacuumed the dust out and identified C305 (2.2mfd-50V), C342 1mfd-50V) and C308 (220 mfd-35V) caps as possible culprits from other sites and complaints, as well as poor solder joints. TV works good when cold but after warm up (15 min or so) is begins to distort again. After the usual smacking with a 50% success rate, I now learned to power off then on. The TV then works fine. Most times for a few hours. If it goes again, I unplug and replug and the problem is gone. My gut tells me it's the caps, but where can I get these? Since the repair shop wants about $190, I have nothing to loose but to try a last ditch efforts before it goes to the dump. Any other suggestions or how to get the parts or problem fixed?

10/31/07 - Update:  Believe it or not, I still have this junker.  Since my last entry, I viewed the main circuit board and soldered any connections that looked suspicious.  It still acts up now and then, but a good "smack" usually gets the picture back in an excellent condition.  One think I've been doing that heps periodically is to remove the screw that secures the CB in place and place anothe thick screw alond the right edge so that when it's resecured, the CB is "bent" a little.  Perhaps there is a bad or open path or connection, but at least this works for awhile.  Does anyone know a way of how to identify a crack ir bad connection?  I've been doing this for awhile, but am now paying more attention towards a new purchase.  Any suggections are welcome.

 

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