Set won't turn on. Relays click, then 10 seconds later the red LED starts blinking. Tried 4 hour hard reset. Still experiencing same problem. Called Philips they more or less told me to go pound sand. TV is 2 years old and just out of 2nd year warranty. Called authorized repair and they told me about $700.00 to fix. Is it worth fixing this model.
Based on the info provided, I'd say yes. A new plasma display would cost you at least another 2500 bucks. One way or another, I don't believe you've recieved adequate value from your investment.
I'd try calling Philips again, they shouldn't tell you to pound sand. You've spent a great deal of money on a Philips TV, and you're getting the cold shoulder. When you call them again, try to make your way up the call center ladder. You may actually get someone who cares.
Still, don't assume they'll pay to fix it. Warranties end when they end, and you've probably had several option to buy an extended from them or your dealer. Unless you bought it from an unauthorized dealer; if you did you may as well not bother.
If you decide to fix it, make sure you shop around for a service quote. Not every servicer will be the same price, so take your time and find one who:
1. is authorized to do the work.
2. will do the job to your satisfaction.
3. not overcharging you.
4. will warranty the work they do for at least 90 days.
As long as you do that, you should be fine. Good luck.
Same thing happened to my TV. The red LED is on (the remote cannot turn the tv, there is no green light). I replaced batteries several times. The remote works fine with my old Magnovox SDTV set and the cable box. The problem started a week ago, but I was able to turn the TV during the week only after clicking the remote a few dozen times and moving anything that can possible interfere with the infrared signal away, disconnected the cable box, moved the computer further away etc. Twice, the TV turned on after I put my Mac asleep and woke it up. It's incridible! Usually it took 15-20 mins to turn the tv on before today. Today it took 2 hrs to turn the set on, but only after I moved my SDTV Magnavox (Philips' old marketing name) and turn on the dvd player at the same time. Looks like Philips has a huge design flaw - you can only turn the set on using the remote, although for the first 22 months I had this tv, it worked beautifully - the quality of picture etc. is superb.
Unfortunately there is only one authorized repair service in Manhattan (NYC), so it's difficult to shop around.
The tech guy from that service ran some computer diagnosics on the tv and told me that the Power Supply Panel (part #312235721442) is failing and needs to be built up or completely replaced ($900 to a $1000) plus labor (Sears sells it for $1072). He took the part to the shop to determine if it's repairable. I'll find out in a few days.
My question is, how do I know if what the repairman told is true -- that power supply panel is really failing and it's not something simpler like a broken circuit which would cost $20 to replace? They are in the business to make money. Any advice?
The $1000+ is a lot of money, but what other choice do I have? My warranty has expired and I can't just throw the set away and get a new one.
I thought Philips was a good investment that should last at least 5 years, not 22 months.
db1234 or ROC, do you have any updates on this thread? Did either of you get your panel repaired?
-Slick
I too have similar symptoms with my Philips 32FD9954. If i heat up the heatsink of the MOSFET (using a hair dryer) then the set can be turned on. I already replaced the MOSFET (STY34NB50) and several electrolytic caps but still the same. In the heatsink, other than the MOSFET, are also other parts like the high voltage bridge diode pack and a transistor like package (TO-220) that is a diode - looks like a temperature sensor.
I found a nearly identical schematic (http://www.eserviceinfo.com/downloads.... Maybe you could also take a look and try to analyze the problem, seems it's really on the protection circuit.
[email protected]
I have solved the Power Supply problem on my philips plasma. If somebody still interested on fixing theirs, just email me at valerio.v(at)gmail.com
Hi Valerio V,
I'm glad you were able to fix your power supply problem! I'm also glad you're willing to help others, it's folks like you that make TechLore a great community to be a part of. Of course, rather than making folks e-mail you, why not whip up a quick article about how you fixed your problem? That way it will be easier to for folks to find the information, and you'll undoubtedly help a lot more folks.
To submit an article to TechLore, click on the "post new article" link under "Articles" in the nav bar at the top of the screen. If you have questions or would like help writing something, adding images, etc., that's what I'm here for. You can reach me via e-mail at editor (at) techlore dot com.
Thanks for being a part of the TechLore Community!
thanks for the suggestion. I'll make a separate article on it. I wasn't sure who are still keeping track on this thread since it was alreay a few months back that people were discussing.
Basically, to fix my power supply problem, i have replaced most capacitors (mylar and electrolytic) on the PRECONDITIONER stage, except the large high voltage capacitors. And even replaced the MOSFET, thinking it was this.
After somebody on a different thread said something about the voltage measurement on different stages, it struct me and I did a block by block voltage check.
To cut the chase, i replaced the MC34067P (PWM Controller) and it did the trick. I have put back the original MOSFET. So the changes in my power supply board were the IC plus a couple of electrolytic caps near that IC.
Now i'm watching back TV and computer (media center) on my plasma!!!!
I have this model. My problem is that the monitor will not respond to the InfraRed remote control. I put the monitor in SDM ( Service Diagnostic Mode ) and now I cannot get it out. It needs the remote control to exit SDM. This is very frustrating, ARGH.
I have replaced the three caps (even though I pulled and tested them and they were fine), and I have the service manual / schematics and every single voltage I measured is fine.
I have error codes, 12,72,4,9,30. The 72 code is low voltage on Va, but Va measures fine. This is a real mystery.
These are complex monitors. They have alot of computer hardware inside, like I2C buses, and considerable circuitry to detect faults from one section or another.
I finally became frustrated and dumped the thing. There is a RS232 port on the monitor that is supposed to be used to diagnose issues but I could not locate the software Philips intended to utilize this feature. I suspect it was an authorized service center only sort of thing. If I located such software I might have been able to get mine out of SDM. I might have actually been able to use the monitor via the RS232 port.
Dealing with Philips is frustrating. Now I read that as of Oct. 31, 2008 they have vanished from North America as an entity. Terrible situation for people owning these Philips things.
picked up a model#ftr9955 flat tv box with model#32fd9954/17s the man didn't give me any cables or remote said the power was going into tv and box but wasn't getting anything can you steer me in the right direction to find cables and have this unit serviced thanks
hello i have a phillips 32fd9954/17s when i turn it on it clicks no pic. blue relay on power supply board flickers any thoughts?
tengo un 32fd9954/17s altratar de activarlo se prende el led en color verde destella la pantalla y luego empieza el led pasa a rojo intermitente y la pantalla en negro. podria alguien ayudarme a solucionqarlo? gracias.
I too have the same issues with my unit. LED remains red and won't click over to green, and TV will not come on. After reading this thread, I used a hair dryer on the unit and not sure if it is coincidence, but the unit finally responded to the remote and came on. I'm leaving it on and I'm going to further investigate replacing the MC34067P (PWM Controller) that Valerio V mentions above. If anyone has updated info on this, please respond to this thread.
I have the exact service manual for this if anyone wants it. Just add a comment, and I will get an email.
yes please, I have my unit for more than 3 years now. Winter works fine, but Summer hardly can turn on. It does response to reomote, and indicator turns to green, but NO PICTURE!!!.. gotta fixed for 3 times, stil same issue in summer. Now it is summer in Australia, and my unit is not working again... Please send me your service manual, I might ask the guy to fix it by following your service manual.
Here is the file:
[url=http://www.filefactory.com/file/a067210/n/FM23_AC_FM24_AB_FM33_AA_pdf]Do... FM23 AC, FM24 AB, FM33 AA.pdf from FileFactory.com[/url]
Good Day All, Just purchased this unit used from a friend of mine, He hasnt used it in a while, close to a year, It Works, and i see images totally fine on the TV screen. The Problem is the sound doesnt work.
I can hear it VERY Faintly if i rest my head against the set, but Thru ALL types of Audio Output, NOTHING will project the sound.
Im not technology expert, so i need Serious help on what it could be. Hopefully Its something i can DIY?
Thanks for the help in advance.
I finally decided to throw mine away. Feels good!
I've just inherited one of these Philips screens with similar sounding symptoms - I'm going to have a go at replacing the MC34067P chip as per Valerio V's post (I was very happy to see you can buy them for $0.90 Australian!) I've had a look at the circuit board, and none of the Electrolytic caps look physically damaged, so I'm assuming they're ok... does that sound right?
Just wondering if anyone else has had success lately with their repair attempts?
Hey all,
I just purchased this tv from a garage sale. The lady said it works but the only thing that came with it was a power plug. When I plug it in the red light just stays on. How do I hook this unit up to digital cable/ps3?
Its model 32fd9954/17s
PLease pray to jessus regarding this matter
I have a Phillips 42FD9934/17S that was purchased in 04'. Within the past year I had the same problems with it flickering on and off right as you turn it on. Sometimes it would take a few hours of sitting before it would even turn green. Ever since about a week ago it would not turn on at all. I opened up the rear and did not find any capacitors that looked swollen or abnormal. I found the MC34067P chip on the power supply module. Took a heat gun to it, along with everything on the power supply board. Turned the power on, BOOM HOUSTON we have A RED LIGHT! Used the remote and BOOM HOUSTON we have a GREEN LIGHT AND AND the SCREEN IS ON!...... Put all 25+ screws on in the rear, hung it on the wall... Now nothing... Same thing again... Dead... Why is this?? Should I really consider taking it off again and heating up, seeing how long it will stay on? I don't know what to do here and would hate to buy a new TV. This is ridiculous. Please help SOMEONE!!!!!
So, I finally got round to replacing the MC34067P and I thought it had fixed the problem... but it turns out, it was only working because it was a really hot day! Grrr. I guess my next move will be to replace some of the electrolytic caps near the chip...