That is one of the worse manuals I have ever seen in my life. They have all sorts of things connected to nowhere in the manual. A buddy had one of these sets and we had a time getting the thing to work. The regulator is a JVC STR-G9656 and is available at the partstore.com or look up the number on line. DO NOT USE a cheap sub for this regulator IC, as it will blow up on you after a few days. Before applying power to the set, check the N502 photo-coupler IC, V501 transistor, and D504 all the way through D511. Good Luck and let us know how this repair turns out for you.
This is not something I can tell you or explain to you with the space I have here very easy. Your going to need to get someone to test these parts for you if you do not have a multi-meter with a diode function on it. If it does look at the instructions on how it works or there are alot of places online that shows and tells you how to test differant componets. To test a silicon diode such as a 1N914 or a 1N4001 all you need is an ohm-meter. If you are using an analog VOM type meter, set the meter to one of the lower ohms scales, say 0-2K, and measure the resistance of the diode both ways. If you get zero both ways, the diode is shorted. If you get INFINITY both ways, the diode is open. If you get INFINITY one way but some reading the other way (the value is not important) then the diode is good. If you use a digital multi-meter (DMM), then there should be a special setting on the Ohms range for testing diodes. Often the setting is marked with a diode symbol. Measure the diode resistance both ways. One way the meter should indicate an open circuit. The other way you should get a reading (often a reading around 600). That indicates the diode is good. If you measure an open circuit both ways, the diode is open. If you measure low resistance both ways, the diode is shorted. Another way is to take a diode you know is good and find which way you need to put the leads to get an Ohms reading. At that point, the positive lead is on the anode and negative lead is on the cathode (cathode is the banded end). This Info was borrowed from HERE. You should go there and learn about the differant diodes to test as well as transistors. To test capacitors, you should get an ESR capacitor meter. ESR is an abbreviation for Equivalent Series Resistance, the characteristic representing the sum of resistive (ohmic) losses within a capacitor. While ESR is undesirable, all capacitors exhibit it to some degree. Materials and construction techniques used to produce the capacitor all contribute to the component's ESR value. ESR is a frequency dependent characteristic, so comparison between component types should be referenced to same frequency.
That is one of the worse manuals I have ever seen in my life. They have all sorts of things connected to nowhere in the manual. A buddy had one of these sets and we had a time getting the thing to work. The regulator is a JVC STR-G9656 and is available at the partstore.com or look up the number on line. DO NOT USE a cheap sub for this regulator IC, as it will blow up on you after a few days. Before applying power to the set, check the N502 photo-coupler IC, V501 transistor, and D504 all the way through D511. Good Luck and let us know how this repair turns out for you.
Thnks for the part number.
I am doing this repair myself because the "repair shop could not find the part"
So how do I check the things you mentioned.
I know electronics, but I know nothing about TV's
I repair electrical systems on cars.
Please let me know.
Thanks
This is not something I can tell you or explain to you with the space I have here very easy. Your going to need to get someone to test these parts for you if you do not have a multi-meter with a diode function on it. If it does look at the instructions on how it works or there are alot of places online that shows and tells you how to test differant componets. To test a silicon diode such as a 1N914 or a 1N4001 all you need is an ohm-meter. If you are using an analog VOM type meter, set the meter to one of the lower ohms scales, say 0-2K, and measure the resistance of the diode both ways. If you get zero both ways, the diode is shorted. If you get INFINITY both ways, the diode is open. If you get INFINITY one way but some reading the other way (the value is not important) then the diode is good. If you use a digital multi-meter (DMM), then there should be a special setting on the Ohms range for testing diodes. Often the setting is marked with a diode symbol. Measure the diode resistance both ways. One way the meter should indicate an open circuit. The other way you should get a reading (often a reading around 600). That indicates the diode is good. If you measure an open circuit both ways, the diode is open. If you measure low resistance both ways, the diode is shorted. Another way is to take a diode you know is good and find which way you need to put the leads to get an Ohms reading. At that point, the positive lead is on the anode and negative lead is on the cathode (cathode is the banded end). This Info was borrowed from HERE. You should go there and learn about the differant diodes to test as well as transistors. To test capacitors, you should get an ESR capacitor meter. ESR is an abbreviation for Equivalent Series Resistance, the characteristic representing the sum of resistive (ohmic) losses within a capacitor. While ESR is undesirable, all capacitors exhibit it to some degree. Materials and construction techniques used to produce the capacitor all contribute to the component's ESR value. ESR is a frequency dependent characteristic, so comparison between component types should be referenced to same frequency.