I just got a Sony KP53HS10 a couple of days ago, and was told it blinks 5 times pauses then 5 more. The previous owner figured it was the Flyback transformer based on advice he received.
I put in the new replacement Flyback, yet connecting the wires was impossible, in part because I'm sure the flyback is the wrong one. Its labeled "8-598-824-10 1-453-338-21" while the OEM part is "1-453-285-11". Also it has 3 wires (Black/White/Red), and the OEM one has 2 red wires.
All it did was arc out, and it sounded like a taser, but I quickly unpluged it. and I've taken that Flyback out. I've found a identical flyback online, but I'm not sure its even the flyback anymore. I may try to get the old flyback in, and not splice the wires but connect them inside the components.
According to the service manual, 5 blinks
Video out abnormality detection 5 times
Video out, IC7101, 7201, 7301 and others in C board circuit. <------- I have the CRT's out and I can replace these no problem and their only $5 each
Q510,516,524 (A board)
TIMER/STANDBY LED blinks approx. 30 seconds,
and then blinks for the self diagnosis.
5 : AKB 000
Now, I knew the TV was discharged when I started, and I learned, after possibly 'tasing' myself
how to discharge the High voltage. And I can take any board or part out, and for $20 I'd think replacing the IC 7101-7103 chips is within my capabillities. However I'm learning that blink codes are not as accurate as I'd hoped they were. That and the fact I could have cooked something with improperly wiring the Flyback, has me leaning toward getting a tech to work on it.
I got the TV for free, so paying a couple c notes would be worth it, but I'd like to do whatever I can myself.
I have all the diagrams for the TV, and it honestly looks more straight forward then I would have guessed before I started.
If anyone can make any suggestions or has any advice I would greatly appreciate it.
I would not use the word "tasing" that implies that the voltage/current levels involved will not stop your heart. Inside this tv it will!. The transformer is much more powerful than a tazer. Never splice the wires together, you cannot insulate it enough to prevent arching. Btw if your problem is akb error it is not the flyback, it is a problem with one of the crt's. Akb is sensing that one of the tubes are not putting out enough cathode current. This is a common problem when the set gets older. There are 2 main reasons for an akb problem, 1. a shorted video dirver, or 2. bad crt. Given that the set is 8 years old it could be the crt.
Thanks for the reply, and actually a taser can stop your heart. It really doesnt take much, I've had a few electrocardioversions unfortunatly. I also seen my friend get zapped twice with 50K Volts, from a main power-line which supplied 20k homes with power, and somehow survived.
I wonder if it still could be the IC's 7101/3 or Q510,516,524 (A board), as the manual suggests? Can you tell me how I could check the 'video driver'? Also I'd imagine if even one of the CRT's is toast its not worth repairing?
Again, thanks for the info.
try to adjust the screen voltage, if you can get the set to stay on, then most likely one of the tubes are bad. Put your meter on each of the screen leads going to the neck modules, adjust all three so that the voltage is identical on all three crt's, within 1 volt of each other. the set may come on. If i remember correctly if you just enter service mode the akb error is ignored and the set will stay on. that will give you time enough to adjust the screen. then shut off the set and see if it will come back on. the voltage is somewhere around 150-170 volts. get it close and if it stays on. you have a weak crt.
Ok, I'll give that a try. I put the old flyback in and it will stay on for 2-4 mins, then the video cuts out and it displays 5 blink code. I can shut it off for as little as 15 seconds and turn it on.
Everytime it turns on, it blinks and the screen is black. After around 15-20 blinks the video turns on.
I have to get the original remote from the guy, but I have a sony universal. Yet it woudn't let
me access the convergence menu since it has no "display" button.
The picture is perfect from light up, to black out. Your voltage suggestion sounds very likely, since I could see that triggering the TV's protective measures of code 5.
I'll first have to read through the manual to figure out how to adjust the voltage per tube.
I know there is some kind of multidial board in the middle of the tubes, which receives a direct wire
from the Flyback. I'd think thats how you adjust the voltage, yet it seems kinda hairy to get my
fingers in there with it on. I could always adjust with no juice, and read after.
Is replacing tubes on a similar age projection TV ever done,
or is it impractical with $1k LCD's out now? The picture on this TV is so sweet
I think it could be worth it.
The screen adjustment is under the front cover, remove the front of the tv, then a pannel under that. that is where you will find the controls.
Zapdbf, your my hero. Its been working flawlessly since I adjusted the screen dials. I tried to use the voltmeter, but I wasn't clear to where to get the "150-170" Volts. I took one off the HV and cooked my main voltmeter and nearly cooked myself. I tried then to read at the C boards and the main voltage from the dial was over 500, and the Voltage on the smaller colored wires was around 250 V.
So I just adjusted the 'screen' dials to just above the lowest point the display would show. I.E I turned each
dial down until the screen went blank then up till it went on, then the middle of the 2 points. It's even stopped
blinking the 5 error code all together now. It still blinks around 15 times before the video starts
but that maybe normal. Either way I'm enjoying the big screen life for as long as I can, thanks to your
advice.
Thanks again.
P.S- I've worked on lots of electronics and even some High voltage components. I took a college class
on electricity, yet I was suprised to learn just how dangerous CRT's are and how extraordinarily high
the voltage gets. I always protect myself redundently, but I did all the wrong things when it comes
to safety on this TV. I.E arcing HV.
Hi,
Have a smimilar problem with the KP-53HS10. Unit turns on and has a red screen with either convergence or retrace lines ( they are only at the top).
The classic 5 blinks is present and it will run this way till the cows come home. Do you think it is the STK ic problem as it is a SONY? This was a free set, like the KP51WS500 was ( and is working great I might add). I have a 16 year old PIONEER (SD-P5071)sd widescreen which has outlasted these by far with no service issues.
Well, came back from vacation on 8/8/08 ( 1 year aniversary of my father's death) and decided to take a good look at the KP-53HS10. Pulled front access to the HV adjustment block for tubes and turned the Red drive slightly up and BINGO! good picture. It was a little red in the whites so I proceeded to go into service mode ( Display,5, vol+, power) and scrolled to the RDRV and turned it from 36 to 25. Set looks great in HD and SD modes ( did a full convergence in service mode as well). I did notice this model and the 61" were discontinued for the next year when only a 16x9 version was available. Larry, do you know if the only diffrenece between the 53" to the 61" is the upper screen section ( ie: same chassis)? I would like to get a 61" of it only means changing cabinets.
Hi everyone, I found this site searching an answer to a DIY repair on my Sony KV-40XBR800 Tube HDTV. My repair involves the 6 led blink shut off problem, and I am in the process of changing two IC's on the D-Board. As I was beginning this repair, I slid out the component tray, and accidently disconnected the "white wire from the C-Board (?) behind the yoke. This white wire comes from the Flyback. On the Flyback, there three(3) wires coming out. One red thicker gauge wire going to the CRT, one red smaller gauge wire going the C-Board behind the yoke, and one white wire that I think goes to the C-Board as well. I just can not find where this white wire is suppose to connect to. I'd greatly appreciate any and all help in this matter.
playdoh,
Where is the screen dials and do you have a step by step procedure? Do you need to replace any parts like the flyback transistor or the IC chips that you have mentioned on these thread? Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
WOW- I am NOT very technically endowed.....
6 blinks when turned on
then randomly SHUTS OFF- PICTURE ONLY
5 blinks follow
On/Off the only solution I have come up with, and it is frustrating as hell - as there is just NO consistency to the problem! AAARG
ANY HELP??? I brought this thing a LOONG way not to have it work right!!!
THANKS Derek
I have a Sony kp-53hs10 also and was experienceing the 5 blinks with audio and no picture. A friend came over and adjusted the three knobs under the front cover. Now I have picture again and the Cable input displays pictures. However, None of the other componet inputs will work. Any suggestions?
I had the 5 blink problem. pulled off the front cover and adjusted the 6 knobs until the screen was clear and quit shutting on and off. then i turned the unit off, unplugged it and turned it back on. all blinking lights have gone off. this website is great. thanks guys for all your help!
I have a KP53HS10 rear projection tv. When I turn it on it makes a clicking sound before the picture tube warms up. When the picture appears and the clicking stops the picture skips and looks like it needs the horizontal hold adjusted. I can't find the controls for that if there is such a thing on this one. It also appears that 2 bulbs have burned out and need to be replaced. Any suggestions as to where to pick them up? I bought the TV about 8 years ago for $100 so I am not looking to spnd too much on repairs, however if I can replace the bulbs I may have a new Tv for another decade. Thanks and Aloha!