Sony Trinitron KV-35S26. Wont turn on. 1998

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Sony Trinitron KV-35S26. Wont turn on. 1998

Got the TV for free. The lady said it just stopped working one day. No noises, just quit.....she said. I opened it up and the power fuse is good. I pulled the power supply board out and inspected the back. Everything looks Ok with no testing.

 I know this is not much to work with, but I was hoping someone good point me in the right direction. Going to pull out my meter tonight and do some testing.


Thanks a lot,


Check the horizontal output

Check the horizontal output transistor first , if it shorted suspect the transistors in the in the power supply also being bad and there is a fusible resistor that opens as well . If all are bad look for loose connections in the horizontal section that could have made this run hot and shorted them out . James

I checked the power supply by

I checked the power supply by checking the largest capacitor on the was at 160 VDC. I read on a post this is how to determine if the power supply is good or not. Is that accurate? If not, what is a better check?

I then pulled out the HOT and it has faulted. I have not checked anything else yet. I want to resolder the Horizontal circuit...but I dont know how to find/trace that circuit. Have not found a wiring/service manual for this set yet.

Thanks for the help,


Does your set have board with

Does your set have board with the Letter G on it ? It is a board about 10" x 4" , it is a power supply . There are two different ones. One has a IC601 & R607 and the other has Q601 & Q602 & R607 suspect these if you have the G board in your set along with the horizontal transistor you've found to be bad. In most cases the main fuse will be good . Also look for loose contacts in the horizontal section as they might have made your set run hot. James

Yes I read that in another

Yes I read that in another post. I did not check then. I did check them now and yes the 2 transistors are shorted and the resistor is open. I do not know enough about electronics yet, but what causes these to short? I am an electrician and I understand the heat issues. What causes the transistors to fail and nothing else? (except that fusible resistor).

Thanks for any tips/hints or advice.

So I guess just because I had the 160VDC did not mean that board was good.


I am ordering parts in the

I am ordering parts in the next couple of days. Anything else i should be checking for?



The HOT - 2 transistors -

The HOT - 2 transistors - fusible resistor sounds like you have it all . The only other thing to check would loose connections in the horizontal section and the vertical IC . This should do it . Good luck , James

Let me know if/when you get

Let me know if/when you get this working and what it took.
I just started having the same problem with my KV-35S24.
I hear the click but no picture shows up on the tube.

well, the one place i order

well, the one place i order parts from has the 4 transistors(semiconductors) and the fusible resistor as a repair kit for sony's. That, along with the above responses lead me to believe that that should be the only problems/parts....and they are EASY to replace.

Mine did not even click though. I had nothing. If you have not done so by now, post a question, the help on this site is great.


Thanks for the info. I most

Thanks for the info. I most certainly will post. I want to take a picture of my power supply board that I've pulled out and see if someone can point me to the the right parts to check. I don't know what the "HOT 2 transistors" are but I did locate the R607 but don't see an IC601, just a hole in the board where that marking is.

How much did the report kit cost?

Here are the blinking codes I

Here are the blinking codes I found online here. I've also found that you can order a complete G Board (power supply) part no. A1316399A for the KV-35S42 at for $116.25. Something to think about if you KNOW the problem is on that board.

Unit is dead, No blinks - Problem in the standby power section. Might check fuse, R607, Q601, IC601, R612 and VDR601 (should show open).

Continuous blink once a second, no pausing - No reply from the jungle IC301 (data bus is busy, shorted to ground, or held high), IK video path is defective. I have found no such part in the Service Manual for KV-35S42.

One blink - not used for the self-diagnosis

Two blinks - B+ over current protection (OCP), the unit goes into standby mode then displays the 2 blink fault. This could be a short in the power supply of any of the circuits.

Three blinks - B+ over voltage protection (OVP), the unit goes into standby mode then displays the 3 blink fault. This is also a problem in the power supply circuit, check T603 and R672.

Four blinks - No vertical Deflection (V STOP), Screen goes to a single horizontal line then the video signal muted. Check IC1509, Q1505

Five blinks - AKB circuit (automatic kine bias), the timer/standby indicator blinks for about 30 seconds then goes to the self-diagnosis function. Something is wrong with the video. Check video out, Q705, 732, 761 and other components on the C board, also check Q218, 219, 220 on the A board. In addition, unit could be in IK blanking, try turning up screen slightly.

Six blinks - No Horizontal (H STOP), no raster, goes to the blinking self-diagnosis function immediately. Check C515 & 516 and the jungle IC, IC206.

Seven blinks - High voltage shutdown. The high voltage has exceeded 33k and the unit goes immediately into safety shutdown. Check power supply regulation and horizontal circuits.

Eight blinks - Problem with the audio (AUDIO), unit goes to standby and blinks the self-diagnosis code. Check IC406 audio amp, PS401, and 402. On some projection models of Sony TV sets, this code means that T8005 (fly back transformer), or the associative components in the high voltage circuits are defective on the D board.

Nine blinks - Replace D 6116 and D 6301 on the "G" board, do not resolder as this will fix the problem temporary. This could also be a Panel Module Error or Thermal Error. If it is intermittent 9 blinks, meaning sometimes the TV comes on and other times you get flashing, then change the switching regulator on the "G" board or check connections. Make sure the regulator is -12 or -13 (negative).

Ten blinks - Check Q8014 and Q8013 for shorts, leakage, or bad solder connections on the "D" board. If the transistors are bad, check R8051 and IC8005, also on the "D" board.

The repair kit for the parts

The repair kit for the parts I need is about $8 plus $12 shipping. I am trying to buy the parts locally though. Sorry i did not respond earlier. Did not notice your post on the 27th.


I ordered my parts from acme

I ordered my parts from Just installed and seems to be working so far. about 40 min's in.

There are 2 transistors on the power supply board. They are screwed to aluminum heat sinks. They are black with 3 "legs" (leads) off of them.

There is also a larger transistor on the main board that is also screwed onto a heat sink.


Put in new parts and worked

Put in new parts and worked great.....for a few days. I did not resolder the HOT circuit. I could not find any help on what the circuit consisted of. i am going to post a new topic to try and get some info on it.

I know I should have tried to find the reason the parts faulted in the first place. I will have to now.

Thanks, Brad

change the horizontal and

change the horizontal and vertical oscilator IC's in the power section

truly appreciate the response

truly appreciate the response dude, but is that what caused my parts to fail again? i want to order new parts but want to make sure I get all i need in 1 order as it is $15 s/h every time. Also I am total newbie can you give me an idea what they look like? trying to find them. don't even know what they are. I am Googling now, so I will like figure it out soon enough. thanks again.


Q502 is mounted on the heat

Q502 is mounted on the heat sink next to the flyback transformer . IC561 is mounted on the heatsink kinda in the middle of the board by itself .

Thanks going to check right

Thanks going to check right now, will post results.

also make sure all heated

also make sure all heated components solder is checked for dry or just suspicious soldering and resolder any sspected areas

the fault for the horizontal

the fault for the horizontal would be because of a capacitor( possibly a mylar also),resistor and an inductor on the horizontal ouput ic and the capacitors you replaced could have already failed , those big capacitors are hard to tell if there going bad without putting them in a circuit with an oscilloscope to see if there is the dc leakage in them right away or after a while
what happen when it went out last time?

I have not replaced any

I have not replaced any capacitors yet. The first time it quit I did not own the tv yet. This time it quit and so far i have found the same parts to fail. 1-Horizontal output transistor, 2-tansistors on the power supply board along with a fusible resistor on that board as well.

It did make a bit of a "wow"? sound when I would turn it on. Like power surging or dipping? It would do that when I turned it on but worked good other than that. I knew something would go. It did not sound right.

I don't know what the horizontal output ic is. So I won't find the correct capacitor,resistor and inductor you mentioned without some more info. I will try to figure more out. I have kinda put it on the 'backburner' for now as I have a ton of fixing to do in the garage. So please add anything you feel may be of use as I do check back often.

Thank you for the help.


the horizontal output IC(

the horizontal output IC( transistor) will be in the high voltage circuit on a heat sink
this will cause other components to act up and fail then end up failing itself
and this is usually caused by a faulty cap and or resistors
here is an exaple of a horizontal output which I think you already replaced , so there is something causing the horizontal to blow , which could be a mylar , electrolytic and resistor that break down under hot conditions( thermal breakdown )
keep me updated on your findings and I'll assist as best as possible , without having a schematic, do you have one for it ? or close? also whats the chassi # ?

Thanks for clarifying that

Thanks for clarifying that the IC is the transistor. I was confused when I was looking. I seen the HOT right were you said the IC should that makes sense. Which is good.

What about the vertical oscilator IC's you mentioned earlier?
How about IC561 jsf2323 mentioned? How do I test that? Do I need to?

I don't mind removing and testing parts, I just don't know which ones yet. Should I be looking for hot spots on the board? There are some of those. There are a couple of resistors and a cap by the flyback where the plastic is discolored. There is also a few diodes and other things in the region of the HOT that has the plastic dicolored. And also around the area of the two transistors I replaced on the power supply (G)board.

I am going to check on the cost of caps. if they are not too much I would replace them as I can not test them properly. Same with resistors etc. When I know which ones I should do.

Model: 35S26
Ser. A908003

Not sure if this helps. If not where do I find the chassis number?

I appreciate your willingness to stick through this one with me repairdude, even though I don't know much yet.


Oslerspark, What is the

Oslerspark, What is the latest with your Sony KV35S26 TV? I had the same problem- no power, lost picture and sound. It was on one day and then shut off on its own with a slight burnt smell. It was manuf. in 1997, but same model as yours. Nice TV! Heavy, but I just hate to junk it. I downloaded a service manual from and bought the Sony repair kit 80-113 from Pulled the G board (power supply) and replaced both Q601 and Q602 transistors (called converters on the schematic). Also replaced the fusible relay R607. Plugged in- heard the usual sound when you plug this unit in, but then slight smoke from G board and won't power up at all- dead again. Where should I go to next? I read earlier on your post about checking the horizontal output transistor? I may need to replace this as well? Any help is appreciated! Thanks

you need to check for a short

you need to check for a short to ground ( look out for components like inductors in circut that will read a short but are not ) , bad solder connection , and check the fuses and standby circuit now that its dead , make sure no components are in backwards or are less of value ,check the horizontal circuit for bad components and find out what just burnt out and smoked , and check the path of components thru there to make sure nothing else is bad

I have not forgot about this

I have not forgot about this thread. I have not done anymore work on it yet though. I lost intrest a bit and have not made time for it. I will yet. Yes you should check the H.O.T. likely bad.


Thanks guys for the response.

Thanks guys for the response. I apperciate your tips repairdude. Brad, I'm with you on the time factor. I'm not sure how much more I will be able to devote to this. I'll keep you posted if I find out any more!

TV is working! There were

TV is working! There were some bad connections on the power supply board, the H.O.T. was bad. I did end up taking it to a repair shop and they repaired and replaced those items along with Q601, Q602 transistors, and R607 fusible resistor. Apparently I ordered the wrong repair kit. I was unable to replace the H.O.T. as it was not the right one. Overall I was pleased and they treated me fairly. Thanks Repairdude for your help, you were right on. Brad, Good luck with yours I suspect its a similar problem.

Good news for you windrider.

Good news for you windrider. Mine sits waiting for me to pay it some attention. With winter here though, my snowmobile and son's hockey have pretty much taken my time(and money, lol).

thanks for the update.


Where can i get a schematic

Where can i get a schematic diagram with part listing for sony kv-35s26


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