Hey,I had a convergence issue where the blue wouldn't move in either direction, pulled board and replaced Stk392-120 with Stk394-160 (Sanyo) I also replaced 6 of the 6.8ohm resistors due to the fact they were discolored, they still read good in the circuit (3.4ohm). I carefully inspected all the solder points and saw no issues, and carefully replaced all cables, upon attempting power-up, got nothing, no noise, no red led on power switch nothing. Checked fuse in back, and it is good. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
the 20 volt power supply is shorted, either the +20 or -20 that will prevent the tv from comming on.
Someone on another board suggested that stk394-160 are bad subs from stk392-120's. I removed 120's from the unit. Could this be the issue. If so, have I fried all kinds of stuff by having the wrong ic's in place?
The 4 blink is the issue, the 160 is not a recommend replacement that is true. You should use stk392-180's or the original number. I suppose the ic's could be loading down the 20 volt line, although i have not looked at the schematics to see if the same 20 volt that supplies the vertical is the same that supplies the convergence ic's.
I'm not sure what a 4 blink is? I have ordered brand new STK392-120's like the ones that came out of the circuit, my bad for not double checking the cross-reference myself. I guess it will be trial by fire, put the new 120's in and double check the associated resistors and fire it up. On a scale of 1-10 10 being runs like a top, what do you rate my chances of putting the 120's in the the darn thing working? My concern is that even though I didn't smell smoke after applying power with the wrong IC's in place,I most likely complicated an easy problem...by introducing new problems. Thanks!
It's fixed! I put new stk392-120's in, and as a precaution replaced all 12 6.8ohm resistors. On a Philips unit don't sub stk394-160 for original stk392-120!