Hello all,
I'm not too sure of the history of this set as it was just given to me broken. When I asked what went wrong, all I got was "it doesn't work." I don't have the money to have a Tech look at it, so I'm on my own here. I'm looking at a WS-55511 that powers up for 3 secs, then powers down. This can be done with the front panel and the remote. The only blinking light is within the first 70 secs. of plugging it in. And I was told that was normal.
After getting the error codes, it came up with "22" (Short Protect) . The DM board is fine. I examined all the boards and the CRT's for obvious shorts/leaks, blown fuses/links and came up empty.
I have the servie manual and have checked most of my voltages and seem to think the problem is in the power board.
I have "some" experience with PCB's.
Any ideas on where to start looking for short?
First thing to check on this set would be the Horizontal output transistor. There is also a couple of diodes that go bad in the horizontal sweep correction circuit. Next would be in the main power supply. make sure the set will start up and the power supply is shutting down because of an internal short, or is it the power supply itself? Check and disconnect the plus and the minus voltages from the convergence board, and see if maybe one or both of the convergence IC's did not short out. Did you check the DM board inside yet? How do you know it is good? There is a 3300 mfd @ 16 volts I think that goes bad in this model also. Good Luck capacitor in the main power supply that also goes bad a lot i this set.
What was your fix? I have the same promblem with a 65"?
I ended up checking the Convergance circuit (very large chip (approx. 3"x1") w/ a huge heatsink). The two green Pico fuses were open. I replaced the conv. chip and the 2 fuses. The set works great. Easy fix.....$20 worth of parts.
Larry,
I got the identical problem from my WS-55511. Do you know the location of convergence IC and 2 pico fuses? Sorry for duplicating the topic from the other forum. Just try to remind you about the failure signature of this problem.
Thanks,
Jason
hello i'm looking for a little help fixing my mitsubishi ws 55511 the blue convergence is off to the left about two inches and sometimes there is two of them and i can not get them to allign i am fair at electronics and would like anyones help to fix this problem
Larry I posted this perhaps in the wrong forum is it possible it is the converance IC"SI don't want it to get worse I am now into the repair for $500 bucks,is there alink that explains the service adjustmnts in a laymans terms I ordered bothth thr service manuals any help or sugestions from anyone are appreciated:
Larry the continuing saga of my ws55859,it now has a geometry distortion on the right side of the screen in advanced conversation the right side is narrower up and down and distorted than the left side,if you recall I had to have the signal board replaced,the tech finally got the tv back together ,but I may have changed something service menu I shouldn't have if you recall the red was totally distorted as it turned out the red lens had been bumped and had to be adjusted,there is about a 1/2"green and red bar in the bottom right hand corner of the screen is there a way to reset everything to default not just convergance ???any suggestion or help are appreciated,this has been a journey from a leak from the gun onto the board to replacing the caps to a month in the shop to find a used board to a moved red lens, picture is getting better and AM I getting a big screen education,Thanks so much for eveything Larry Happy Holidays!!!!!
Can I see a pictures of what problem you are having now please?
Hi Falcon, As luck would have it, my 55511 came down with the same illness yesterday. I did some searching and am glad I found this thread.
I'd appreciate any details you might have on how you fixed the problem. I'm a EE and can read the schematics, solder, etc.
Here are some specific questions:
What was the part number for the Convergence circuit you replaced?
Where did you buy the parts?
What was the part number of the two pico fuses you replaced - and where are they in the set? Where on the schematics?
Thanks for any assisstance you have time for. I'm not looking forward to paying a service tech.
jt
All the parts I replaced were on the same board.
The Conv. chip part number is STK393-110 (Very large single chip on a large Heat sink.)
The Pico Fuses on the board are labled F9A01 through F9A06. 01 and 02 are LF251 10A. 03 through 06 are LF251 5A. On the schematics, they are right after the Main and Standby Transformers. From what I remember....they are right under one another around the middle of the board. If you look at the board, you should see their lables. They're geen and look similar to resisters. Take them out one by one and look for an "open". I think it was 04 and 05....but not sure.
As for where I got them.....I can't remember.
Just Google the part numbers.
Good luck and keep us updated
I hope you have a solder sucker.....really helps
Looking back in my e-mails I found where I got my parts - http://www.bluestar-online.com/
Thanks for looking it up! I ended up ordering from www.acme-sales.net. They had the STK393-110 for $21.99 and the pico 5A fuses for $0.59 each. I got enough to blow some extra fuses and for a 2nd failure some time down the road. Now my fingers are crossed that this will resolve the issue...
I hope that IC is an original Sanyo and not an aftermarket part or a reject, or you will be replaceing the IC again before you know it. By the price, it certainly sounds like an after market part.
They promise "genuine Japanese parts" and the catalog item for the STK393-110 says "Sanyo." I called them and they seemed reputable. Lowest price I found with the "genuine" promise. We'll see when they get here. I hope there is a marking on the device that lets me know that they are really Sanyo.
Below is from the website:
STK393-110
Back in stock!
Sanyo integrated circuit
$ 21.99
ACME Enterprises of Orlando 1-800-575-9833
TV Parts - Stereo Parts
Genuine Japanese Transistors and ICs
Proud to be a NESDA Corporate Member
Genuine Japanese Transistor, IC, and TV Parts Specialists
OEM-Quality TV Parts - World-Class Service - Fast Delivery - Great Prices
FREE SHIPPING AND HANDLING on orders over $50
Ok, cool. Also do not forget the heat sink compound.
I just had my convergence fixed It cost me 488.00 I guess that is ok I have a year gurantee on it. I'm wondering if there should be a fan on the back of tv set. My brother has a fan on his 42 inch rear projection that ia controlled by a thermastat. I also have WS55511. The picture has never been better.
No you do not need a fan in your set. The other 42 inch set is probably newer and has a bright lamp that gives off a lot of heat. Your set has three picture tubes and they do not give off even a quarter of the the heat the lamp will.
THANK YOU!
A big thanks for your help here on this forum. I received the new parts for my Mits WS-55511 yesterday, pulled the board out, removed the old parts, checked the resisitors and diodes to make sure everything else looked ok, installed the new parts, put it all back together and wha-la, it works! In fact, the color looks better than it has in quite some time. Cost me about $50, but I bought duplicate parts to protect me from myself... %)
I scribed a line around the STK393-110 on the heatsink before removal, based on someone's suggestion in the past, so I could line the new one up before installation.
I took the time to hone the back of the STK393-110 part and heatsink to ensure a good, close fit and better heat transfer. The back of the STK393-110 was definitely not flat. It was slightly concave, so the middle would not have fit snuggly had I not performed the honing.
Installation of the fuses was straight forward, but I installed the STK393-110 a little unconventionally (in my opinion). First I reinstalled the board back in the chassis with the fuses replaced, then I mounted the STK393-110 to the heat sink with as little grease as I could get away with and still cover the back of the part, then carefully put the STK393-110 leads through the board as I installed the heat sink back on to the board. After mounting the heatsink and making sure the part leads all lined up - and that I hadn't missed any of the pins, I flipped the chassis forward (removed the the set) and soldered the part in place from underneath. Cleaned up residual flux with a swab or two of rubbing alcohol.
Also thought that the inside of my set looked like it had been worked on before - or maybe upgraded before it had been sold to me? Weird. I bought it new from Ultimate Electronics here in Plano, TX.
Thanks again for building my confidence that I could do this fix. Makes me feel real gooood!
Hi Guys,
My TV ws-55511 has the same blinking problem. I replaced 7 capacitors in the DM Power board and it does not fix the problem. I found this thread about IC and pico fuses. Can you show me where to find the IC and pico fuses. Any pictures, that would be great.
Thanks for all your help.
Hi txp,
What error code did the TV give you? Make sure it's 2-2 before implementing this fix.
Yes, the error is 2 2, repeated 5 times.
I hope this will solve my problem. Any details info on how to find it, remove, order, solder, tricks and tips are appreciated.
Thanks
txp
I am sorry but there are not tricks and tips to every problem out here on these TV sets. I wish I had time to do the pictures and arrows on every single problem these sets had. You will need to know now how to read circuit flow using the schematic diagram I'm afraid, and start troubleshooting the different power supplies and deflection circuits. I really wish repairing these puppies were that simple all the time. If you have no solid state repair experience. it might be best to call in a pro to assist you in the repair. Good Luck.
I hate to add to this problem but where are these components located? I have a model that has 7 capacitors on the DM ( which I replaced) and now have the "on for 3 seconds" problem. I haven't seen a parts layout for this board or any pictures for reference. Any new posts that address these concerns would be greatly appreciated. I have a hot soldering iron ready to take off the next component since I am now throwing darts at the problem. Sorry for the lack of technical references but I work on two-way radios but hate to trash my 5 year old TV if it is a fix that might just take a little work. I did download a few "free" manuals for the WS-55511 but they seemed limited to block diagrams and a few flow charts mainly to guide or remind someone who knows what they are looking at.
Does anyone know the Mitsubishi component number on the board for the IC with part number: STK393-110? There seems to be a few IC's on the board unlike a radio powered by the good old Motorola 68-HC11; simple microprocessor that controls the whole thing, but then again radios don't receive Comcast in HD either.
Thanks to all of the people on this forum helping others out.
Jim
You will need to check the small fuses in the power supply for the plus and the minus 24 volt lines in the power supply and see if one or more or open. If they are, replace the convergence IC STK393-110 BEFORE you replace the blown fuse.
My tv has had the chip and fuses replaced ; however, I now have a 4 wire connector that can't find it's home. It looks like it is coming down from the light area and has R-Br-Y-Bl wires in it.
I hate to say but I don't remmeber if it was connected or not. It also has a D Y on the connector in sharpie. I continue to hunt for where it goes, but hate to rip everything apart again. Anyone have any ideas for the WS-55511 from about 5 years ago?
Also, when replacing the IC, I found many of the pins had disconnected from the IC itself. They were still soldered in but that was all, like they had fallen out of the chip.
Thanks in advance forany help.
Jim
I have Mitsubishi VS 45608, which has a smilar problem. When I push the power button, it doesn't turn on. After a couple second, I heard a clicking, and the set seems turn itself off. The self diag code is 2 3. My servie manual says it is horizontal defelction issue. But the manual doesn't mentio any more about diagnostics and fixes. Please help.
No the manual does not go into repair, they assume that the person looking at the service manual is a tech who knows how to troubleshoot the different circuits in this set. You probably have bad capacitors, a bad flyback transformer, a defective high voltage distribution block or perhaps the HOT is bad, There could also be simple solder connections in the sweep power supply that are bad. On this model I have looked at my records and found that all the above plus many other things have caused this problem. Nothing common, OR specific.
I had a similar model and i found that i had the two blow pico fuses, ( F9A04 & F9A05 ) they are int he center of the 3 boards and they look like little green resistors, if they are blown then its a problem in the convergence circuit somewhere.
yes it is and if you do not replace the convergence IC before you replace the fuses, you WILL burn out several resistors and possibly the power supply. It is not just a blown fuse!
I have the old integrated circuit chip removed from the printed circuit board and am ready to install the new STK-393110 IC chip from a OE manufacturer. My question is do I need to use flux with the .022 diameter rosin core solder that I have? This solder is 62/36/2 is this acceptable for this application?
Yes ACME is a GOOD company to Buy STK's from I buy from Them Like there Free Shipping and I get the parts the next Day Because iam only about 100 miles from them Like MCM to when they run the Big Sales
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