This is for model numbers WS55859, WS65869, WS55909, WS65909, WS63909. You can get a free copy of the service manual at TechLore's Technician's Corner located in the resources tab on the home page or click HERE. This will give you an idea on what needs to be done for the other models as the tools and procedture is the same. The different models do have different IC's to see what IC each model has go to this TechLore Forum Discussion.
First, it is very important that you have some soldering experience working on solid state printed circuit boards, and that you know too much heat from the soldering iron will most likely ruin the PC (printed circuit) board. If this happens, it can be a very difficult repair. The boards are no longer available for these sets from Mitsubishi, so I cannot stress enough - if you have no soldering experience, let a pro assist you in this repair.
One more very important thing to remember and NOT DO!! If the convergence is way out or cannot be adjusted by the customer controls, do not go into the service menu and try to adjust the convergence. It will only make it very difficult to adjust the set after it has been repaired. The service menu adjustments are to make MINOR drifting alignments, as over time, the adjustments may drift a bit due to part tolerance changing.
For the information below I am using the Adobe Reader Eight (8). If the page numbers do not match up as I have explained, then you will need to upgrade to the newest version of Adobe Reader. You can download it here.
Next, let’s get together the equipment you will need to work on this puppy. You will need:
- A #2 Phillips screwdriver to first remove the backboard in the rear of the TV set as described on page 10 of the service manual.
- A small soldering iron with a desoldering bulb to remove the solder on the pins of the IC’s. I recommend an inexpensive one from Radio Shack. It is a 45 watt type, item number 64-2060.
- A small amount of rosin core solder to re-solder back in the new convergence IC’s. You can get that at Radio Shack also. The item number is 64-017.
- Heat sink compound or thermal paste. The item number is number is 55014135.
- You also might wish to pick up a small amount of solder braid to assist you in cleaning up the area around the un-soldered pins of the convergence IC after you remove it. It is very important to make sure you have no solder splashes or bits of solder lying around or across any of the adjacent circuits.
- ONE (1) STK393-110 convergence Amp IC. I recommend getting those from here. The reason I recommend this distributor - I have ordered many of IC’s (for a lot less money), but they are not original Sanyo IC’s. Yes, these IC’s in this Mitsubishi set is made by Sanyo. Many of the less expensive IC’s are not original and the aftermarket types made in China. I have heard also that some parts distributors buy factory reject IC’s and sell them as good original IC’s. That being said, it 's up to you if you want to be back in your set several months down the road because of another convergence problem. Play it safe, and stay original.
- A small multimeter or DMM (digital multimeter) and know how to use it. You can get the five (5) amp pico fuses if you need them from here.
Next, (and this is a very important step) - MAKE SURE THE TV SET IS UNPLUGGED FROM THE WALL SOCKET!! This may seem a bit redundant, but I cannot count how many times I have seen technicians rush into a job and forget to unplug a set from the wall.
Now let’s get into the set! First remove the back board by removing 20 or 21 screws from the back board of this set. This is described on page ten (10) of the service manual. Next, remove the left and right speaker grill covers as well as the center part of the TV set in the front. These simply pull off so do not be afraid to pull on them a little, side to side, until they come off.
Next, take off the front board by removing six (6) screws. This is all on page nine (9) of the service manual. Now, remove three (3) screws securing the entire chassis in the rear of the set as described on page fifteen (15) of the service manual. Unclip the two (2) chassis locks in the front of the TV set as the locks are shown on the front of the chassis on page 16 of the service manual. Slide the chassis out toward the rear of the unit and slide upwards to access the bottom of the printed circuit board.
Look at page sixteen (16), towards the bottom of the page. There, right in the middle of the power board (the board in the middle part of the chassis), notice the large metal block with fins on it. On that block, which is called a heat sink, is a line that says IC8C01 & IC8C02 conv. Outputs. That is a mistake in this service manual. There is only one (1) Conv. output IC in this set and it is marked IC8C01.
You want to first locate the two (2) pico fuses on the main power supply board. If one or more of these are not bad, your convergence IC is most likely not the problem with the set. This is not always the case, maybe the IC opened up and not shorted, therefore blowing out the fuses. However, I have not seen this condition very often.
The fuses are marked ON THE BOARD, as F9A04 and F9A05. They are located next to or near a large transformer labeled on the board as T9A50. They do not look like regular glass fuse, but more like resistors. Measure for a short or full continuity across both of them. If one or both are bad, DO NOT simply replace them, the IC is bad, and replacing them will cause further power supply damage. Fuses do not blow in this set unless there is a problem. My experience has been, "if a fuse or two are bad, find out why it blew." These are 5 amp pico fuses, and can be ordered from the link that I have posted above. These pico fuses control the plus and the minus 24 volts to the convergence IC.
Be sure to check the resistance of several feedback resistors. They are labeled on the PC board as R8C05, R8C06, R8C13, R8C14, R8C21, R8C22, R8C29, R8C30, R8C37, R8C38, R8C45, and R8C46. These resistors are flameproof and are 3.9 ohm resistors@ two (2) watts. The other resistors in this convergence circuit that sometimes will burn up are labeled on the board as, R8C07, R8C15, R8C23, R8C31, R8C39, and R8C47. These resistors are also the flameproof type. The values of these resistors are 150 ohms @ three (3) watts. Also, if you have the plus and minus 24 volts on the power supply but not on the convergence IC pins numbers 10, 12, 13, 15, 16, and 18, check the two coils labels on the board as L8C01 and L8C02. If one or more of these cols are bad, replace C8C05, and C8C03. They are 1000uf@50 volts.
The next thing you want to do is to carefully remove all of the solder on the convergence output IC pins. Make sure each pin is free to move around inside of the hole. Unscrew the two screws that attach the IC to the heat sink and remove the IC from the printed circuit board and the heat sink. Sometimes the silicone thermal paste dries up and you have to pry off the IC, but it will pop off. Do your best to scrape off any large amount or clumps of old thermal paste on the heat sink. It does not have to be shiny clean though.
Make sure all of the pins of the new IC are all lines up, and straight. It makes the re-install easier. Apply a liberal coating on the back side of the new IC, not too much as it will get all over the place. Just enough to coat the back side of the new IC. Now, insert the IC back into the board and making sure all of the IC pins go straight into the holes, and do not bend or short out against each other.
Carefully solder each pin at a time on the board, watching and being careful not to short or bridge any solder on to the adjacent pins or circuit pads. Double, no triple, check your soldering job. Clean up any excessive solder flux with a cue tip and alcohol.
Reinstall the chassis and make sure that any plugs you disconnected are back into their proper connector. Double check every plug and connector by hand, not by sight, for loose or shifted connections.
Plug in the set and see if you did your job correctly. If the set will not come on, check the pico fuses again. If one or more are bad again, the IC is bad, or there is a short across one of the pins. If the set comes on, but the convergence is way out, you may have a bad feedback resistor or two. If you messed with the convergence before you replaced the IC, you may need a pro to assist you in making the final convergence adjustments.
Good luck and be carefull!
Comments
Larry,
Larry,
I don't know where you get the time for your excellent input to the forums.
Good work.
Robert
Another Very nice article by
Another Very nice article by Larry, this will help many people keep these great sets working.
will most likly be my last
will most likly be my last ass I was and just had just diagnosed with a malignant brain tumor just had surgery on SAturday
T. niht. ithanks aagin for those kind words
LarryDillon
So sorry to hear about your
So sorry to hear about your sad news. I have only read your TV service posts for the last few weeks but it appears that you are an "old dog" at this TV game.
Back in the 70's when the first Asian microwaves appeared on the market, sensitive microwave radiation meters were made available for service as there was very little leakage to measure compared to the primitive North American manufactured products.
A lot of jokes were made about "lead underware" when working near the American made microwave products. Similar jokes were made about the TV techs with their heads stuck inside TVs trying to see or hear arcing and hissing from HV components. I wonder if some of the jokes should have been well heeded warnings.
I believe some of your most important comments to the users with problems were regarding the possible serious damages and dangers involved with service of consumer electronic equipment.
Good luck to you Larry. Good work. I already had a list of things I wanted to ask you.
easyab
Larry, best wishes on your
Larry, best wishes on your recovery. I hope you are able to get back to your normal schedule, and write many more articles in the future. You have that rare combination of knowledge, the willingness to share it, and the ability to communicate it.
with gods will I ill or ure i
with gods will I ill or ure i hav just insttllled a A frear voice eecocnition proggy, but links are not don ell with hi poggy, but we will see how it work out. I was hopoing to toadd many mny Mitsubishi model number for the mithubishi repair guidesline before 6 months if the voice recognition program works out.
XLNT!!
XLNT!!
I am a big fan of the Mitsubishi WS series crt rear projectors, but still sorting through the differences in the models on upscaling and screen specs. 1080i and upconverting dvd player standard dvd's are outstanding.
Your repair/maintenance posts have helped me and many others save these sets.
Good luck with the voice recognition, I bet it will be a big help with the writing.
Larry old Buddy I hope you
Larry old Buddy I hope you get better.:)
The world would not be the same without your sense of humor and your great technical knowledge.
Easy to understand tips on repairs and great explanations of how things work are the best.
I worked with you and still IM regulary through Techlore and other sources now that we live in different states.For almost 30 years now since we met in the 1980's in Queens, New York.
Big Screen TV's were just taking off and already you knew how to service them.
I really enjoyed troubleshooting with you and sharing both our ways to find a solution to whatever problem a set could throw at us and we fixed it.
Good luck buddy.
Your friend ,
Don
Thats by pal Don the bet
Thats by pal Don the bet fishin buddy ever
This is a first. Great
This is a first. Great article. I have Mitsubishi Model 55511 of which I'm going to use this article on. Needless to say, I'm a bit apprehensive about it. But like I said, this is my first tme.
To tell you a little bit about my television. It is a 55" Mitsubishi, Model 55511 It plays fine except it has red background shadows, like I'm watching it in 3-d. The blue and green are fine.
Could use a little advice.
Thanks,
fldivall
[email protected]
Larry, I have read a number
Larry, I have read a number of the blog entries about the "green light" problem I am having. can you please send me a copy of the instruction file (with pictures) that could fix the problem show me how to take out the DM board, find the bad parts, and show me where to get replacements parts. I know a guy who is handy with solder and could fix me up. i have a mitsubishi ws-65813.
Thank You,
Dave
[email protected]
Good info you provide Larry.
Good info you provide Larry. I downloaded a service manual for a VS-60707. Looks like I will be able to use it with my VS-60705. I know the IC's are diff. Thank you for providing the IC part numbers also.
Thanks to Larry Dillons
Thanks to Larry Dillons article "Replacing Convergence IC on a Mitsubishi set". I was able to repair my television like brand new.
Thanks for the article Larry Dillon
ok I replaced two pico fuses
ok I replaced two pico fuses and now it turns on but I cannot get the colors right with the crosshairs so I took the board out and found r8c29 and r8c30 bad replaced them and I worked for 10 sec. and their bad again and will not turn on do I need to check r8c26 and c8c23 or replace ic chip
you need to replace the
you need to replace the convergnce IC first.
Larry Dillon said: you need
Larrry i replace ic chip set comes on but now i have two red cross hair
http://www.mediafire.com/?zindrzuxdwy
http://www.mediafire.com/?zyzzmymttul
i upload two file of what the screen looks like
i ger code 12 which is no error
can anynoe tell me where to
if you replaced the fuses
if you replaced the fuses before you replacd the IC's you proably blew the fuses again and or blew out some resistors., never ever replace he fuses without first replacing the IC's first!, I thought I made this clear in the article?
Larry Dillon said: if you
I got it working i bought a bad ic chip took it back today and they replaced it
Thanks for the help
great news! you fixed it and
great news! you fixed it and saved yourself several hundred bucks!
Larry,
Larry,
Sunday my WS 55859 picture went out but I could still hear sound. On Monday the screen was sort of garbled and no sound. By Tuesday, I'd turn it on and nothing would happen and after like 5 seconds, the screen would turn blue for a second then it would shut itself off and the green light would blink. Is this the IC convergence issue? Any help is much appreciated.
thanks,
Scott
Larry,
Larry,
I've read numerous posts regarding the IC going bad in Mitsu stes. I have a WT-42311 that has since turned itself off and refuses to come on. I get the dreaded 2-2 error code. I've ordered the replacement ICs from the place you recommend. Now, I have read that other components need to be replaced as well. Could you tell me what pico fuses, transistors, caps, etc I should replace and where to get them? It would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance and I hop you are feeling better.
Jeff
hey guys,
hey guys,
just picked up a WS-55907 with bad convergence around the perimiter and an awful bowtie shaped picture. after reading a few posts i was sure it was the convergence ic's. i replaced the stk's with sanyo originals and powered up to test. no change at all. i checked all my soldier joints and looked for any blown pico fuses and checked all the resistors, every thing looks fine.
also when its powered up and i press the menu button the entire screen turns grey without any menu at all.
thanks for your time
-matt
p.s.
anyone have a service manual for the ws-55907?
[email protected]
hey guys,
hey guys,
just picked up a WS-55907 with bad convergence around the perimiter and an awful bowtie shaped picture. after reading a few posts i was sure it was the convergence ic's. i replaced the stk's with sanyo originals and powered up to test. no change at all. i checked all my soldier joints and looked for any blown pico fuses and checked all the resistors, every thing looks fine.
also when its powered up and i press the menu button the entire screen turns grey without any menu at all.
thanks for your time
-matt
p.s.
anyone have a service manual for the ws-55907?
[email protected]
They do not "look" fine you
They do not "look" fine you have to test them for continuity and all the resitors listed in the repair doc.
sorry, I meant that the pico
sorry, I meant that the pico's tested good and the first group of resistors measured 149-148 ohms and the next group measured 2.6-2.8 (is that normal for a V17?) ohms. I haven't metered the transformers yet (i'm a little shy of poking aruond with the set powered up)
Larry-
Larry-
nevermind that part about 2.6-2.8 ohms, i just checked them and they are measuring 3.6-3.9. i dont know how i got the original values. never the less, i got up the nerve to measure IC8C01 and IC8C02 while powered up and there is only 24v on pins 10 and 12, nothing on 13,15,16 and 18. could this be bad caps on c8c05, c8c03, c8c20, and c8c18? also what is the procedure for testing the coils at L8C01 and L8C02?
As is i appreciate all your help and information, i couldn't have gotten this far without you!
Thanks
The coils you check for
The coils you check for continuity, the pico fuses under the heat sink are probably open or bsd.
I'm sure I checked all the
I'm sure I checked all the picos on the power board and the coils checked ok. do you have the location numbers for the fuses in question?
I thought I included those in
I thought I included those in the HOW to do article.
well it looks like my signal
well it looks like my signal board is the issue (blue CRT leak). i'm gonna try to trouble shoot it, otherwise I'll be giving pts a call
Hi Larry,
Hi Larry,
Thanks for your hard work maintaining this site.
I have a red convergence problem on a Mitsubishi WS-55511. Thought it was a classic case of the Sanyo IC going out. In your how-to article however you note that "(i)f one or more of these (pico fuses) are NOT bad, your convergence IC is most likely not the problem with the set" (emphasis mine). That's my case. Picos and resistors test out fine. Anything I should look at before pulling out the Sanyo IC? Really don't want to do that if its not likely the problem. Thanks in advance for your time. AJ.
Dear Larry Dillon, I need
Dear Larry Dillon, I need your help
My Sony projection TV KP-46WT500 has a convergence problem.
After I install two new IC STK392-560 and changed one of my yellow Pico Fuse (PS5001,5amp,90V, ordered from partstore.com, They sent me a green pico fuse) on the G-Board, I plugged back all the plugs and turned the TV on and I saw sparks.I can still see the TV, but the convergence problem still continues. I turned off the TV and turned it back on and the sparks were on a different location. So I check my new Pico Fuse and it blown out. I need help. What is the problem with the sparks and the convergence?
Dear Larry Dillon, I need
Dear Larry Dillon, I need your help
My Sony projection TV KP-46WT500 has a convergence problem.
After I install two new IC STK392-560 and changed one of my yellow Pico Fuse (PS5001,5amp,90V, ordered from partstore.com, They sent me a green pico fuse) on the G-Board, I plugged back all the plugs and turned the TV on and I saw sparks.I can still see the TV, but the convergence problem still continues. I turned off the TV and turned it back on and the sparks were on a different location. So I check my new Pico Fuse and it blown out. I need help. What is the problem with the sparks and the convergence?
ould you please email me the
ould you please email me the instructions to fix the caps on the dm board for the Mitsubishi WS65513 ? I really would like my tv to work again and read your other forums and it seems you have the answers!! thanks!!
Christian
I have been reading the
I have been reading the various posts relating to the convergence probles people are having and the replcing of the IC's as a solution, but I think my problem is different. Over the pas several months my VS-50707 has been loosing brighntess and the color is washing out. i have to run the brightness at 100% tobe able to get any sort of decent picture. Any suggestions?
Thanks
Max
thanks sooo much for the
thanks sooo much for the information and , as an update my ws555111 would not turn on and had no blinking light! i followed the instructions in the article "DIY-Repair-Replacing-Convergence-IC-s-on-a-Mitsubshi-TV-Set/ it worked perfect !!! thanks again
Hey Larry!
Hey Larry!
I read your DIY manual for the mutsubishi convergence problems. Do you think it would work with my WS-65905 tv? maybe some parts are not on the same place as u wrote, because that is for other models, but if I have a service manual, I should be able to fix it...right?
Thank you for the answer in advance!
Balázs Tóth
Hi Larry and everyone else,
Hi Larry and everyone else,
My roommates and I (like many others) have a WS-55907 with a convergence problem. It started out as an intermittent problem that would only show up after the TV had been on for a few minutes (parts heating up and ceasing to make good contact?) and manifested as a misalignment of the red channel. After watching the TV for a few minutes, the red would just "pop out" of alignment. Whacking the side of the TV actually fixed the problem temporarily, but it would usually pop back out in a minute or two. Opening up the back of the TV and poking at the large convergence IC heatsink fixed the problem, so we figured it must be a loose solder joint. We removed that board and re-flowed all the joints on each IC. Upon putting the board back in and reconnecting everything, we found that the problem had gotten even worse - all three channels now appear dramatically out of alignment. Are the convergence ICs likely at fault, or might another component(s) need replacement?
Thanks very much in advance for any help anyone can offer!
Larry,
Larry,
Do you have a service manual for a Mitsubishi VS-45609. I'm have the same convergence problem. I have a new convergence IC but I need to know what resistors to check on this model.
Thanks
Kenny
Hey Kenny Redfearn, just
Hey Kenny Redfearn, just wondering if you were from Elwood?
And Larry has posted the chip info in this link. http://www.techlore.com/forum/thread/18547/Mitsubishi-convergence-IC-s-u...
tvrepairkits.com, go here for
tvrepairkits.com, go here for the correct ic's and parts/kits you need for you convergence problem,BTW
The best advice I can tell you at this point is to go to tvrepairkits.com and order the complete convergence kit for your model of TV set, no need to search and order multiple parts from different sources and pay multiple shipping fees! The kit comes with original Sanyo STK ICÂ’S , not those cheap aftermarket or china made ICÂ’S full pictorial directions, the thermal paste, resistors, the correct Pico fuses, AND free live on-Line tech assistance in case you run into a problem with the repair. They ship out 2 to 3 day Priority mail, the next day in most cases,
Larry Dillon
06Busa said: Hey Kenny
No Im from Kansas. I bought the kit but have no clue where the fuses and resistors are located. The service manual is no help. Right now I'm waiting for a responce back from the guys at tvrepairkits.
I JUST GOT A WT 42-413 AND
I JUST GOT A WT 42-413 AND THE RED WAS GIVING A 3-D LOOK TO THE TV PULLED THE FRONT PANEL AND SAW THAT ONE OF THE CONVERGENCE IC WAS LOOSE WIGGLED THE HEAT SINK THEN THE SET TURNED OFF TOOK IN HAD THE IC SOLDERED BACK IN PLACE BUT STIL HAVE NOTHING I WAS ABLE TO PULL CODE 22 CAN YOU HELP !!!!!!
Larry,
Larry,
I was hoping you could help with my Mitsubishi 55413; I was watching the unit last week when all of the sudden the bottom of screen became "warped" with distorted colors. I wasn't sure what was happening but soon realized that it was the TV and not my cable box. I decided to turn the set off for a while ... unfortunately it won't turn back on now! After a bit of reading I was able to run the built in diagnositic -- it returns a code "22". I was hoping this was Convergence IC issue (as the initial symptom seemed to agree), however I really want to make sure the $50 I spend in parts is going to fix the problem (else I'll put the money towards a new TV). Hence, I started reading through your threads (and HOWTO guides); I checked all the resistors and fuses and found no issues. I physically removed (de-soldered) the two Convergence ICs, turned the set on and unfortunately observed the same behavior (turns on then off -- code "22" returned from diagnostic). I was hoping that if indeed faulty, removing the two Convergence ICs would prevent the "short circuit protection" from kicking in. The only other thing I notice is a slight "clicking" upon pressing the power button; I was able to trace the sound to the back (i.e. that which sits next to the back of the set) of the power board (right-most board as viewing interior from the back). Not sure if this is normal or not. Any ideas/suggestions is greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
JS
Hi JS,
Hi JS,
Sorry to say my friend of 30 years and colleague passed on last week from his Cancer.
As was his nature he tried to help others right to the end.
Being retired now from big screen TV repair since 2004 I could ask around to some of my friends still in the business but perhaps another expert on the site can help you out.
I must contact the Webmaster and let him know of Larry's passing.
He was only 54.
Don
Don,
Don,
I am truly sorry.
Regards,
JS
Ok, help please. I have
Ok, help please. I have replaced both 5a. pico fuses, both STK392-570 IC . Checked the resistors. The first time i found 1 bad pico. replaced it. Then blew the other. So , i replaced both pico's and the IC's . Now the same problem. Comes on, then right back off. But it did not blow either fuse. Im sure my soldering points are tight and clean. What next ? I double checked again before submitting this. Thanks
It is very possible you have
It is very possible you have a leaky CRT in the set and the fluid has dripped onto the signal board.
If you find any of the three tubes leaking you can clean the board and after look to see if it is a two sided connection type using tiny griplets from top to bottom that may need resoldering or hand wiring.
A leaky CRT problem can be fixed without replacing the tube by simply running your own duct or gutter like on your house so the fluid drains in a safe place.
That's how the factory does it .
Can you give me the model # of the set if these ideas don't solve your problem.?
I have the Model 55859. The
I have the Model 55859. The reset button is flashing green. We have pushed the reset button, pushed and held for 10 sec, unplugged for 10 minutes, held reset button in and plugged back in and tv will not come on. Any ideas. It is a 2002 model. We have it on most of the day, everyday. What do you think?
Thanks for any help out there,
Boyd
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