Mitsubishi "Blinking Green Light" Repair Procedure

This Article is written to provide assistance and step-by-step guidance in resolving the Mitsubishi "Blinking Green Light" issue. This failure is often referred to as the "Blinking Green Light of Death" or BLOG. A large amount of information is included in this Article, all of which will help you to both understand and repair the 'Blinking Green Light' problem.

Written specifically for the Mitsubishi 65" WS-65813, this article ALSO applies to other Mitsubishi models with the same 'blinking green light' issue.

The Mitsubishi 'Blinking Green Light' failure is common with many Mitsubishi models including the WS-65813, WS-48513, WS-48613, WS-55513, WS-55613, WS-55813, WS-65513, WS-65613, WS-65713, WS-73513, WS-73713 and others. This detailed repair procedure will assist, even the NOVICE, in the required repair process. Links are provided for downloading Mitsubishi Service Manuals and for recommended parts ordering. Circuitboard photos are also shown which provide a visual reference during the repair process.

I hope that this Article helps you to resolve your Mitsubishi "Blinking Green Light" issue.

Background

When I encountered the 'blinking green light' issue with my Mitsubishi 65" WS-65813, I called Mitsubishi's Customer Service Department. Following repeated promises to correct the issue, it soon became evident that they were both "dragging" their feet and not at all anxious to admit liability for this failure or to provide a timely repair of the television. After several phone calls to Customer Service, I sent a detailed letter to Mitsubishi Customer Service with a copy to Mitsubishi's President & CEO outlining my concerns and asking for a "good will" repair of my 65" Mitsubishi. After waiting about three weeks for Mitsubishi to assign one of their Authorized Repair Dealers to repair the unit, I repaired the television myself.

Mitsubishi Customer Service did not follow up on the issue and I never received a acknowledgement letter from Mitsubishi's President and CEO.

Repairing It Yourself

If you decide to repair the TV yourself, I recommend that you obtain a copy of the repair manual for your Mitsubishi TV from the Techlore website by going to Mitsubishi Service Manual. It will provide some direction, however it is technically written and may be difficult for the NOVICE to understand. If you are unable to locate the the service manual for your specific Model at the above Techlore link, you may need to purchase the service manual online at ServiceManuals.net.

If you decide to have a service technician do the repair, insist that the "DM" module is removed from the TV and ONLY the four 1000uF, 16V Capacitors (Caps) located on the DM Module are replaced. MOST techincians will INSIST on replacing the entire DM Module and not simply the capacitors. The cost is about $200 for a technician to replace the capacitors and $1000 for replacement of the DM Module. As you will read below, doing the repair yourself will cost less than $4.00 for the 4 Caps.

Overview

I repaired my Mitsubishi WS-65813 by replacing the four (4) DM Module 1000uF, 16V, 85C Capacitors. The basic tools and materials required were: Four (4) capacitors, soldering iron, rosin solder, wire cutters, phillips & flat-head screw drivers and pliers.

Repair estimates, from a local authorized Mitsubishi Repair Center, was between $800 - $1000 to replace the DM Module. My total out-of-pocket cost for replacing the four (4) capacitors was $3.50.

Replacement Parts:

Replace the original four (4) 1000µF, 16V, 85ºC capacitors on the DM Module with Radial Polarized, 1000µF, 35V, 105ºC Capacitors.

Description: Computer Grade Electrolytic Capacitors or High Temp Electrolytic Capacitors; Capacitance = 1000µF; Voltage = 35 V; Operating Temperature Range = - 20º C to + 105º C; Termination Style = Radial, Operating Hours = 10,000 Life Hours. The original DM capacitors are rated at 1000µF, 16V, 85ºC. Do not use capacitors with this rating to repair your Mitsubishi television, or else the same issue will reappear in 1-2 years.

The capacitors are available from several on-line electronics stores and possibly from a local television repair shop. I recommend that you use ONLY high temp Capacitors rated at 105º C, with a voltage rating of 35 V. Refer to the "General Information" section below for additional information about purchasing the capacitors from a online website.

If you decide to take on the repair project yourself, pay CLOSE attention to my "Lesson Learned" note; a copy of which is provided below. This was posted to TechLore on October 4th, 2007. See comments below.

Copied from a previous Techlore posting. Quite important:

October 4, 2007 3:30 PM

Lesson Learned: Larry, For your information and others, after replacing the 4 capacitors on the DM Module, I slid the DM circuit board back into the metal DM case and then inserted the entire unit into the main circuit board. This was working in the "blind" as it was impossible to verify a proper seat of the DM circuit board onto the mother board. The blinking green light was still present upon power-up of the TV. I again removed the DM module from the TV and this time I re-installed the DM circuit board onto the main mother board and THEN installed the DM metal case over the top of the circuit board. By doing this, I was able to ensure a proper connection of the DM board. Upon power-up the TV is UP and RUNNING.

A Few "Cautions"

  1. Keep yourself "grounded" when working with the circuit board. Static electricity will destroy electronic components.
  2. When replacing the Capacitors, press them "down" onto the circuit board as far as they will go, hold them down, solder into place and clip the excess terminal lengths flush with solder. Only by doing this will the metal shield (little silver box) slide down and over the circuit board during re-assembly. There is not a lot of clearance when doing this, as the 105C Capacitors are slightly longer that the originals. With minimal effort everything does fit back together.
  3. Use ONLY 105º C capacitors with a voltage rating of 35 V.
  4. Re-insert the DM circuit board into the Mother board; press virmly and ensure a proper seat of the DM board. Next, slide the metal case down and over the DM circuit board. Refer to my "Lesson Learned."

General Overview of Mitsubshi Power-up Cycle

Normal Power-up Sequence: During TV power-up, the green light blinks until the Digital Modulator (DM) has booted up and is in sync with the microprocessor. Once the two are in sync, the television will "turn on". A failure in this boot up process is indicated by the "blinking green light" continuing to flash and the television's failure to "turn on".

Problem: Continuous "blinking green light". Mitsubishi television will not "turn on"; no video and/or audio; no audible noise or sound from the TV. Blinking green light will extinguish ONLY by unplugging the Mitsubishi from its power source.

Basic Troubleshooting

  1. Press the "reset" button and hold for 10 seconds .... Does TV turn on and blinking green light turn to solid green.
  2. Unplug the TV from it's power source for various times, ranging between 5 minutes and 24 hours..... Does blinking green light continue upon plugging in the TV.
  3. Disconnect ALL devices from the TV; DVD, Tuner, Cable Box, unplug the TV for various duration times .... Does blinking green light continues upon plugging in the TV.
  4. Press Power and Menu buttons simultaneously and hold depressed for 20 seconds .... Does blinking green light continue to flash.
  5. Press Power and Display buttons simultaneously and hold depressed for 20 seconds .... Does blinking green light continue to flash.
  6. Insure that no front panel buttons are inadvertently stuck in an "engaged" position.

Diagnosis: If none of the above test resolve the issue, then the failure lies in one of the following:

  1. DM Module Capacitors have FAILED.
  2. DM Module is defective.
  3. EEPROM Board failure
  4. Power Supply failure.

Perform a Mitsubishi "error code" diagnostic check to assist in determining where the problem lies. Refer to your Owner's Manual for specific procedures on running this check. You may also read Mitsubishi Television Error Code Diagnostic Procedure which is posted on Techlore's website.

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General Information

For this repair you will need a Phillips screwdriver, a 15 or 25 watt soldering iron, a desoldering tool (recommended), and four electrolytic capacitors. For the optional fan replacement you need a PC cooling fan, zip ties, foam tape (or weather stripping) and a 12v AC to DC power adapter. Note: The cooling fan is not required provided you replace the capacitors with Caps having a 105c high temp rating.

I recommend replacing the original (bad) 1000µF, 16V, 85ºC capacitors with Panasonic 10,000 hour, Radial Polarized, 1000µF, 35V, 105ºC high temp capacitors. The Panasonic Part Number is EEU-EB1V102. The capacitors may be purchased from a local electronics repair shop or online at digi-key.com. The Digi-Key Part Number is P13126-ND.

If you require a soldering iron, I recommend Radio Shack's 15 Watt Soldering Iron, Part # 64-2051 or the 25 Watt Soldering Iron, Part # 64-2070. Radio Shack also has a desoldering tool, Part# 64-2060, which you may find helpful in removing old solder from the connections, without damaging the board. A basic 11 piece Electronic Tool Kit, Part # 64-2803A may also be of value. The cost for each of these tools is between $10 and $20. Similiar tools are also available from Lowe's, Home Depot or Wallmart.

This is a fairly simple repair for those with a little soldering experience.

Start by unplugging the TV. Disconnect the coax and digital audio cables and remove the rear panel.

Remove the plastic panel mounting screws and set the panel aside.

If you are going to install a fan, position it on the right side of the shield (as seen from the rear) and mark its outline with a pencil. It is easiest to install the fan with the shield removed from the TV, but by marking its mounting position first, you will avoid placing the fan on a part of the shield that has an obstruction. The DM guide partly covers the capacitors that need cooling and the metal tray under the CRTs also restricts fan placement.

Remove the four (4) screws that secure the DM Module. For the left side screw, it may be easier to pull out and set aside the PWB-DEMOD board. It is a small vertical card just to the left of the DM and has a broad copper grounding spring. This will simplify access to the left side DM shield mounting screws. See the pictures below:

Left side of DM Module

Front side of DM Module

Right side of DM Module

Unplug the USB and Firewire cables from the top of the DM, as well as the cable that runs from the front input jacks to the connector on top of the terminal board. Unscrew the grounding strap from the top of the doubler shield.

Remove the 2 screws in the plastic bracket that holds the DMÃ Module in place. After removing both screws, pry the plastic piece away from the support piece to which it is mounted.

The DM Module and the shield are removed vertically. In order for there to be enough clearance, the chassis needs to be pulled toward the rear of the TV. All the electronics are mounted on a tray that can slide back like a drawer to make servicing easier.

Remove the board slide, which is a narrow fiber board that stretches the width of the TV above the rear of the chassis and shields the light box from scattered light. It is held in place by a long black screw on either side of the TV. Use caution as the board may fall when the screws are removed.

Undo the wire ties on the cables going to the front of the TV. You will need slack in these wires as you slide the chassis out. You will also need to unplug some of the connectors on the shorter wires. Remove the screw (a) on the edge of the chassis and screws (b) on the xx813. See diagram below:

Release the chassis lock tab on either side of the chassis. The tray may be a bit hard to slide, so alternately tug on the left and right edges to rock the tray rearward. Go slowly in case you've missed freeing a wire bundle. Pay attention to the large red anode wires and other cables on the right hand side as they are clipped to the frame of the TV. Pull the chassis back until the DM shield will clear any obstructions above.

Remove the screws holding the DM shield. (Note: Do not use a power screwdriver on these screws as it is very easy to strip the threads.) There are two on top of the shield, two in the rear base, and one in the middle of the base on either side of the shield. The DM shield can be snug and hard to pull up. Gently rock the shield front and back while applying upward force. You may want to hold down the board below (DTV-TUNER) to avoid disturbing the ribbon connectors to the signal board. The DM itself also comes out straight up, but it is not nearly as tight.

Remove the DM Module by pulling it straight up (toward the top of the television). DO NOT pull it at an angle. The DM Module is connected to the circuit board by 4 sets of pins.

Once the pins are free from the onboard connectors, continue pulling straight up. There is a plastic guide that makes it necessary to pull the DM Module straight up and sliding it over the plastic guide.

With the DM Module removed and positioned, as shown in the photo below, remove the 2 screws located next to the USB and IEEE-1394 jacks and slide the DM circuitboard out of the metal case.

The next and most important task will be to carefully remove and replace the 1000µF, 16V, 85ºC capacitors with 1000µF, 35V, 105ºC capacitors.

CAUTION: Handle the DM circuitboard by the edges to avoid static damage. If you hold the DM with the components facing you and the external connectors on the left, you can find the capacitors in question in a cluster on the top right corner of the board.


Here is what a typical capacitor failure looks like:

The top of the capacitors shown above may only have a slight bulge, but they have indeed failed.

Desolder and replace all of the capacitors at the same time. When inserting the new capacitors, pay close attention to the polarity. The rear of the board has the positive terminal labeled and the longest lead is positive. The capacitor body has the negative terminal marked by dashes running down one side. All the capacitors have the same orientation:

Insert all four capacitors as close to the board as possible. The Panasonic capacitors are 4mm higher than the stock capacitors and there is very little extra room inside the shield. If properly installed, the DM Module case will fit over the DM board during re-assembly.

The picture below shows the underside of the DM board after the capacitors have been removed.

With the BAD capacitors removed, thread the new capacitor leads through the holes in the DM board. Ensure that you have the positive and negative leads on the capacitors threaded through the proper hole. With the capacitors in place, maintain pressure to firmly seat the capacitors against the circuit board and carefully solder each connection. It will help considerably if someone provides assistance during this very important soldering step.

Replace the original 1000uF, 16V, 85C capacitors with Radial Polarized 1000uF, 35V, 105C Capacitors.

If you are going to install a cooling fan, do so now. Once again, if you have used capacitors with a 105ºC temp rating, the cooling fan is not required or recommended. If installing the fan, stick some foam tape or adhesive weather stripping to each corner of the fan. This will minimize fan vibration noise and provide the fan with some clearance from the shield. The shield has a thin ridge that runs diagonally and prevents the fan from sitting flush, but the foam tape will allow the fan to straddle the ridge.

Place the fan on the pencil lines you drew earlier and secure two diagonal corners of the fan with small zip ties through holes in the shield. The zip ties are flat and their low profile will allow the shield to slide over the DM board without getting caught. You can run your fan from a 6v power supply to minimize noise, but test it first since not all PC fans will spin up with just 6v.

For individuals with the Mitsubishi WS-55859, WS-55909, WS-65869, WS-65909, WS-73909 or other Mitsubishi models with seven (7) of the 1000uF, 16V Capacitors on the DM Module instead of four (4), the two photos below may provide a visual orientation when looking at the DM Module circuit board. In this case replace all seven of the original capacitors with those having a rating of 1000uF, 35V, 105C.

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Re-Installation

Installation is the reverse of removal. The DM will slide down onto the four connectors at its base and there is a plastic vertical guide to ensure proper alignment of the board. Be careful not to bend the copper grounding springs that touch the connector end (rear) of the DM as it slides back into place. Carefully slide the DM shield back over the DM board and be careful not to snag the taller capacitors. Install the 6 screws that secure the DM in place. (Note that the two screws on the top of the DM shield are different from the other four). Plug the PWB-DEMOD card back in and ensure that its copper ground spring is touching the left edge of the DM shield.

Slowly slide the chassis back into the TV and be careful not to pinch any wires running to the front of the TV. The chassis should click as the release tabs lock into place. Secure the chassis with the long black screws. Reconnect all the wires you had removed and secure the excess slack back into the wire ties. Plug the USB and Firewire connectors back on the top of the DM and plug the cable from the front inputs back onto the top of the terminal board. Screw the grounding strap to the top of the doubler shield. Do not over tighten it as it is easy to break the threaded mounting plate on the shield. Install the DM rear cover and screws. Reconnect the coax antenna and digital audio cable back into the DM (if applicable).

Lastly, put the board slide back and remember that it could fall unless properly screwed in place. Double check all the connectors on the boards to be sure you haven't missed reconnecting anything. Install the rear cover of the TV and route the optional fan's power cable over the top of the rear cover to avoid pinching the cable.

Plug the TV back in and the front light should blink for about a minute as the DM boots. When the light has turned off, power up the TV and verify operation. If all goes well, your TV should boot in about one minute and there should be no more interference in the picture or OSD.

WS-65813 Advanced Troubleshooting

For those more technically inclined than most, you may enjoy the following. For the rest of you, IGNORE these checks.

  1. CHECK FOR 12 VOLTS DC (AC-OFF DETECT) AT PIN 3 OF PC9A21 IF MISSING REPLACE PC9A21 PART # 268P058020 ON THE POWER PCB.
  2. SHORT DETECT SHUTDOWN (PIN 13 OF IC700) CHECK FOR OPEN L902 PART # 351P155010 OFF Q904 C (15 V SUPPLY) ON THE MAIN PCB.
  3. SHORT DETECT SHUTDOWN (PIN 13 OF IC700) CHECK FOR SHORTED D913 PART # 264P722010 AND OPEN Z901 PART # 283P039020 (Z905 AND Z900 M.
  4. CHECK FOR BAD CAPACITORS IN DM MODULE.
  5. CHECK FOR 10 VDC AT PIN 5 OF IC502 OF LOW, CHECK IC503 PART # 270P704010 ON THE MAIN PCB.
  6. SUSPECT SHORTED WINDINGS OF T5A31 PART # 349P216010 ON THE MAIN PCB.
  7. SHUTDOWN AT POWER WITH SELF DIAGNOSIS ERROR 2 2. CHECK FOR LEAKY C9A60 470 PF 1000 V PART # 154P400030, PARALLEL TO D9A57 ON THE POWER PCB 2. SHUTDOWN AT POWER WITH SELF DIAGNOSIS ERROR
  8. CHECK FOR OPEN FUSES F9A04 AND F9A05 ON THE +24 AND -24 VOLT LINES. IF THE FUSES ARE OPEN THE CONVERGENCE OUTPUT CIRCUIT WOULD BE SUSPECT.
  9. SHORTED HORIZONTAL OUTPUT TRANSISTOR.
  10. COOLENT HAS LEAKED ON THE MAIN BOARD FROM THE CRT'S AND HAS DAMAGED THE MAIN BOARD BEYOND REPAIR.

Also, if the 24 volt B+ and or B- is missing from the convergence ICs, change both convergence ICs as well as the defective pico fuse in the power supply. This is most likely not a quicky type of repair. These are a few of my notes on this set from me and a few of my buds in the buisness. Good Luck and let us know how you made out with this set.

A Word of Caution

To all of you who may be attempting the capacitor fix on their Mitsubishi a word of caution. Modern circuit boards are easily damaged by static electricity. Tech's in the industry use grounding wrist straps when handling these boards. Simply walking across a room with the circuit board in your hand could damage it. Try to ground yourself to the metal chassis of the tv when touching circuits. Even though the TV is not plugged in it will equalize your electrical potential. Handle the circuit board carefully by the edges when taking it to your workbench. Try to ground yourself while soldering on the board. I bring this up after reading some posts that stated after changing out the caps they ended up with new or different problems. That's why you see new circuit boards shipped in the anti static special plastic bags.

This DM board communicates with the sets internal microprocessor. That's why if the set is working properly, and you first plug the set in, the light blinks and then stops blinking. When it stops blinking, that means the DM has booted up and is all in sync with the microprocessor and ready to go. If the set does not stop blinking, that is an indication that the DM has not booted up and communicated with the microprocessor. This is the basic explanation, as there is a lot more to it than this:

  1. Could be poor solder connections, the power coming to the DM board from the main power supply could be bad.
  2. The EEPROM could be bad
  3. The power supply or sweep power supply could have bad connections or swollen capacitors.

The first thing to do is check all of the plugs, connectors, and connections to and around the DM board. Next would be to check for other large capacitors on other boards with swollen tops. The next thing would be to start checking power supply upon switch on. But, first do the diagnostic test as explained in the service manual. Maybe it will point you in the right direction.

If you have taken the time to follow these advance trouble shooting instructions and the Blinking Green Light continues to be a issue, a service tech may be required to complete the repair.

I hope that this Article has provided guidance and assisted in the repair of your Mitsubishi's "Blinking Green Light" issue.

Speed

Resources

Mitsubishi Service Manual: Mitsubishi Service Manual

If you require additional assistance or advice, feel free to send me a private message.

Contact information for Mitsubishi Customer Service:

MITSUBISHI DIGITAL ELECTRONICS AMERICA, INC. (MDEA)
9351 Jeronimo Rd.
Irvine, CA 92618
Mitsubishi Consumer Relations
800.332.2119
Fax: 949.609.4900

President & CEO (July 2008)
President & CEO
Ikuo Morisada
Mitsubishi Electronics
9351 Jeronimo Rd.
Irvine, CA 92618

E-mail: imorisada@mitsubishi-tv.com

Comments

did you use the right caps? double check both ends of the plugs and connectors that go to the DM Module
Larry D.

Nursejolee, what is the problem with the set????

Hi Larry- great thread!
Does this still happen on the newer models?
has it been corrected by mitsubishi?
thanks, Trish

Yes it does involve the new models. Mine just came out of the box and the green light started blinking instantly. no reply from anyone yet this company manufactures junk.

My husband and I took apart our mitsubishi 52725 and replaced all the bulging capacitors and some extras as recommended by all the threads. We tested all the connections and put it back together. Still blinking green light!!! I hate the blinking green light!!!! I've tried holding in the reset and nothing. We took it apart and rechecked everything once again. We surrended and went out and bought a new tv. But this old piece of f%&@#%g sh$t is in my living room and we are sort of determined for one last go on it. Any suggestions???

did you get the 4 caps inside the DM board??

nursejolee, take back the set if it is new sound like if it just came out of the box it is a defect
Larry Dillon

David 59, great to hear we could help you my friend!!!!!
Larry Dillon

Larry Dillon said: did you get the 4 caps inside the DM board??

Yes, we got all 4 on the DM board and replaced all the others on the two other boards as well with your recommended digikey ones.   We put it all back together and nothing.  Upon opening up again and testing with multimeter we noticed a 330uF 16V 105deg blown as well.   We are going to get some more replacement capacitors and try some more magic.    Any other tricks recommended?  email: debra_igo@yahoo.com

Hi DBombs

Sorry to hear of your frustrations. I had the same problem, but it turned out to not only be the caps, but also a inadvertently knocked off a surface mounted chip fuse on the DM board. If you just want to junk it, there are green ewaste places that will pick it up for free. In San Jose, Frys has a flier that shows who to call. Just roll it out and that's it.

If you have an ohm meter, you can still find out if it is possible to salvage and maybe even sell.

Here is a summary of all the extra information I was able to gather from the forums in one location:

Keep in mind that you will probably only need to change out the capacitors. I had more to do since when handling the DM board, I inadvertently knocked off a surface mounted chip fuse on the back of the board. I know everyone says this, but be very careful when handling the board. The board is durable, but things like these fuses are small and can get knocked off very easily. Also, when pulling the shelf with all the boards out, many of the wires are so tightly placed and coiled, that you really need to take your time and trace everything. I had to pop out five harnessed wires regularly when I was testing the unit. I had to untwist the plastic “twist ties” and unravel the wires so as not to break any of them or disconnect them. The last thing you want to do is to yank out a wire from under the tubes and try to figure out how you are going to fix that problem! Anyway, take your time and make sure you don’t yank anything too quickly. Also, in my unit, there were three screws on the right side in the front that hold the tray in place. Stay focused and keep the faith. It took me a full weekend to do since I was learning in the process, but now I think I can break it down and pop it back together in about 15 min. Best of luck. I did have to lay the capacitors down on their side since they are a lot taller than the originals. Just be careful.

Use: 105C Caps. DO NOT use Capacitors from Radio Shack.

Panasonic 35V Caps: http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=P13126-ND
Size/Dimension: 0.492" Dia x 0.984" H (12.50mm x 25.00mm). They cost $0.96 each. Order an extra set since they are so cheap….I did and I am glad I did.

Be very careful of STATIC electricity ... Keep yourself GROUNDED.

It is acceptable to install the Caps at a Angle in order that they fit.
1. Ensure that the Polarity is CORRECT on the Caps.
2. Ensure that the Cap leads are not touching (shorting) against anything.
3. Check that ALL leads are properly soldered; NO COLD solder joints.
4. Carefully inspect bottom of DM circuit board around soldered leads to ensure that you did NOT tear the surface while soldering. Excessive heat or solder iron pressure against the board may cause damage.
5. Clip ALL excess leads flush with solder joint after soldering.
6. Install the DM without the shield cover and press FIRMLY to seat. Check operation of TV WITHOUT cover ... If TV works, then install cover shield over DM.

Check continuity of certain key fuses on the Main Board: the two Pico fuses F9A04 and F9A05; both are rated at 125V 5A.

Check continuity of certain key fuses on DM board: F9B00 125V 4A .. 1 each; F9B02 125V 4A .. 2 each

Replacing the caps on my WS 65513 fixed mine. The caps looked perfect with no bulge but I replaced them anyways and it fixed it. My TV would shut off by itself and the light would blink. Selftest showed no codes. If I unplugged it overnight it would work fine again until it would just shut off again and I would have to unplug it again. Also slide the whole bottom tray out before unscrewing the DM modules bottom screws as it makes access to them ten times easier. The Mitsubishi service manual tells you to do it this way as well. Thanks Speed for your time making this post and saving my hundreds!!!!!!!!!

I have the WD-52527 with the blinking green light. My set will come on but when I try to change device input the screen turns blue and eventually shuts off. All other menu functions work correctly. I can watch TV as long as I don't change from the coax input. Is this the same problem? If so, does anyone with this model have experience doing the CAP fix?

thanks, great thread

I replace the capactitors on my Mitsu, but unfortunatley when I power up the TV goes on for a few minutes then shuts down. I found his thread after the capacitor change and am worried because I used RadioShack parts. I am not sure what is wrong, I jsut want my TV back. Any advice.

CWilliams1 said:
I replace the capactitors on my Mitsu, but unfortunatley when I power up the TV goes on for a few minutes then shuts down. I found his thread after the capacitor change and am worried because I used RadioShack parts. I am not sure what is wrong, I jsut want my TV back. Any advice.

I don't know if the Radio Shack part is the problem, but everyone on this thread says to avoid the Radio Shack parts.  Order from Digi-Key.  It takes about 3 days and costs $5.  Make sure you angle the capacitors correctly so the cover can go over the board and the new capacitors.  Sorry, but cut your losses and get the right parts.

Ive got the dreaded blinking light on my WS-65813.

This happened a few years ago, but it was under warranty and I didnt bother to research. Guy came out, swapped boards and I was good to go.

It is now 5 months out of warranty. Ive done soldering before, I work on computers, thought what the hay.

I pulled the DM board and what do I see? Bulged caps.

So now Im just hunting for a place locally, I have 2 leads. If I cant find them I will get them online and post my results then.

After months of debating whether to dump this in the trash, 3 estimates at over $850, I decided to call Mitsubish customer relations and complain. End result, they are covering the cost of the parts for repair and I only have to pay $200 for the labor. Small price to pay to get my TV back to being more than an expensive stand for my small TV.

Travis H.The best advice I can tell you is to go to tvrepairkits.com and order the blinking light kit for your model of set, the kit comes with the high temperature/ high frequency/long life 105 Celsius type capacitors (not those cheap Radio Shack caps) full easy to follow pictorial directions, AND free live on-Line tech assistance in case you run into a problem, all kits are shipped out within 24 hours in most cases, 2 to 3 day Priority mail. GOOD LUCK!!!

KVS666-The best advice I can tell you is to go to tvrepairkits.com and order the blinking light kit for your model of set, the kit comes with the high temperature/ high frequency/long life 105 Celsius type capacitors (not those cheap Radio Shack caps) full easy to follow pictorial directions, AND free live on-Line tech assistance in case you run into a problem, all kits are shipped out within 24 hours in most cases, 2 to 3 day Priority mail. GOOD LUCK!!!

Larry Dillon said: KVS666-The best advice I can tell you is to go to tvrepairkits.com and order the blinking light kit for your model of set, the kit comes with the high temperature/ high frequency/long life 105 Celsius type capacitors (not those cheap Radio Shack caps) full easy to follow pictorial directions, AND free live on-Line tech assistance in case you run into a problem, all kits are shipped out within 24 hours in most cases, 2 to 3 day Priority mail. GOOD LUCK!!!

Larry, could you please tell me where to find on the DM board the 2 SMD pico fuses that need to be changed on the Mitsubishi 52725.

Thanks.

Well, I found a local repair shop that had the 35v 105 degree caps, replaced them put the DM board back in, and......blinking green light still. Sigh.

TravisH said:
Well, I found a local repair shop that had the 35v 105 degree caps, replaced them put the DM board back in, and......blinking green light still. Sigh.

Follow the steps I outlined above.  You shoudl check the three chip fuses on the DM board.  As I mentioned, I knocked one off by mistake and even though I installed the capicitors correctly, the circuit was open since the fuse was missing, causing the blinking green light to continue.

Check the fuses...

How do you check the fuses? Ive see it mentioned but nothing that I can remember to test for them being bad or even removal. They seem like surface mount parts. Any tips?

TravisH said:
How do you check the fuses? Ive see it mentioned but nothing that I can remember to test for them being bad or even removal. They seem like surface mount parts. Any tips?

You need an ohm meter.  It has two probes that send a small current through it.  If there is continuity (i.e., the fuse is not blown), it usually sounds a beep.  This tells  you current is flowing through the fuse.  If it is open, you'll know.  You can check any type of fuse (e.g., tube, pico, chip, what ever).  Just touch the ends of the fuse with the probes.  Surface mount parts (e.g., chip fuses) have exposed connections on both ends.  Make sure they are still attached to the board, and if they are, test them.  There is no way to easily order or obtain chip fuses.  I had to turn a pico fuse into a chip fuse.  Basically, I made little feet out of the wire and attached it to the terminals. Pretty crazy, but it works.

I need to get ah Ohmeter. The last one I had I lost in my last move.

Littlefuse.com seems to have fuses available. I dont want to order from TVRepairkit as I already have the caps. and fuses wont cost much, just would need to know which ones to buy if I needed to replace them. $35 for 4 caps and 2 fuses is extremely excessive in cost.

TravisH said:
Littlefuse.com seems to have fuses available. I dont want to order from TVRepairkit as I already have the caps. and fuses wont cost much, just would need to know which ones to buy if I needed to replace them. $35 for 4 caps and 2 fuses is extremely excessive in cost.

Go to Radio Shack and get an ohm meter.  $15 or so.  Return it if you don't want it when you are done.  Locate all the fuses I listed above in my long message.  If they are all in place (especially the chip fuses), get the ohm meter and test them.  The fuses ran me about $8 for five (the picos come in a tube).

Good luck!

VICTORY IS MINE!!!!

I decided to pull the board again and this time install it without the shield to verify it was seated properly as mentioned way above after rereading many posts in the thread.

I plugged her in, 30 seconds to 45 seconds later the light stopped blinking. Then BAM, I hit power and everything is golden again! I will carefully reapply the shield without removing the board, then replace the screws tomorrow. Im so happy!

Larry Dillon said: i guess you do not remember what i said to you before about the repair help?? it is too bad!glad to hear you fixed your own set and saved several hundred bucks!! Larry ;>(

I have gone over my emails and read all my posts and your replies several times. I can not find anywhere, anything you might have said to me about the repair help. I think you got me confused with someone else.

 

Ugh... TV (WS-65513) is STILL dead on me. Died over a year ago, and just haven't had the time to look at it since April. I'm never home. I still have 8 capacitors left that I got from Arrow, and I am HOPING that I just REALLY SUCK at soldering, and that is the problem. Just soldered on new ones for the 3rd time last night, and it was a no-go. All the chip fuses are still on the DM board... F9B00 - F9B02. Painting the whole house next weekend, so house is empty right now, but my dad is going to look at it to see if he can solder it next weekend after painting... I can only hope that fixes it.

are they the 1000uf!!!@16 volts and the 105 Celsius caps? make sure you make sure you install them properly there is a plus and a minus on all capacitors!!
Larry D.

Yeah, I am pretty sure they are the correct ones. I have the specs listed on page 3. I will list them again here.... Perhaps I am just confused, but in response to my earlier post, you said to make sure that they are 1000MFD caps.

1000MFD=1000uF, correct?

Either way, the ones I have are the same exact ones shown in the pictures on page 2 of the article, and I know 100% that they are installed in the correct direction. They match the pictures, with the positive edge in the hole that is circled, and the negative edge (gray stripe) in the hole near the side of the circuit with the bold edge. The only thing I can call into question is my ability to solder.... which is, IT SUCKS. That's just my opinion.

http://www.arrow.com/
Manufacturer: Panasonic
Part No: EEU-EB1V102

Type : Electrolytic
Capacitance : 1000uF
Voltage : 35VDC
Tolerance (+ or -) : 20%
Packaging : Bulk
Mounting Style : Through Hole
Construction : Radial
DCL : 3uA
Ripple Current : 586mA
Operating Temp Range : -40C to 105C
Failure Rate : Not Required
Lifetime : 10000
Product Diameter (mm) : 12.5mm
Product Height (mm) : 25mm
Product Depth (mm) : Not Required
Product Length (mm) : Not Required
Lead Spacing (nom) : 5mm
Lead Diameter (nom) : 0.6mm

Not sure where to post this. I have bought a new LCD tv. I have taken my Mitsubishi ws-65611 apart, I have DM Module and the rest of the set minus chassis sitting in a spare room. Got the convergence fixed a year and a half ago, while the technician had the set at repair shop, drop solder or flux on red lens (has a red hue on left side but not enough to bother my wife, but pissed me off) any way not sure what to do with it. Looks like alot of people are needing parts. Maybe we can work something out. I am sure the wife would like the spare room back.

Kevin Sears

KevinS said: Not sure where to post this. I have bought a new LCD tv. I have taken my Mitsubishi ws-65611 apart, I have DM Module and the rest of the set minus chassis sitting in a spare room. Got the convergence fixed a year and a half ago, while the technician had the set at repair shop, drop solder or flux on red lens (has a red hue on left side but not enough to bother my wife, but pissed me off) any way not sure what to do with it. Looks like alot of people are needing parts. Maybe we can work something out. I am sure the wife would like the spare room back. Kevin Sears

You'll probobly get a good response posting it on Craigslist in your area.

Thanks to "Speed" and Larry on this site for sharing. I just fixed my WS-B55 by replacing 7 caps on the DM power board. I used Digi-Key P13121-ND 25V 1000uf capacitors. The recommended caps were too tall for my model. I also had to angle the leads because the new caps are larger in diameter than the originals. Hope this helps the next guy!
cfg

laurismith said:

I have a Mitsubishi model wd 62627. I also have the blinking green light. The light will blink for a minute or so and go out. I can then turn the tv on. When I try to use any of the buttons on the tv or the remote, they don't work. Within a couple of minutes the tv will turn itself off and the blinking green light will start again. It will blink for a couple of minutes and go out. I can then turn the tv on and the buttons and remote don't work......this continues on and on. I took out all of the parts inside the tv looking for the dm module (having read the article posted above). I purchased the capacitors (1000uf 35v 105c) ahead of time, I cannot find any circuit board that has a cluster of 4 or 7 of these capacitors. The inside of my tv is not the same as the one(s) mentioned in the article. I have found clusters of 640uf 35v 105c and two lone 1000uf 16v capacitors, but nothing like what I was looking for. All the capacitors on every board I inspected looked fine. Please help, I don't know what I am looking for or what to replace when I find it. I have inspected every connection and cleaned out a lot of dust! The set is still doing the same thing. email ajsc16@live.com I already have a copy of the service manual and have all the boards out and ready to work on, just need some guidance. Thanks

I have a WD-62527 with the blinking green light problem.  I was sent the V24 chassis repair guide but it does not look anything like that.  Could someone send me the one that goes with my TV?  The s/n number is 108735 if that helps and thanks in advance.  lynngibson40@yahoo.com

I have read all these replies and its good info, but i replace my capasitors in my ws-65513 in the dm, and still the BLOD. I dont want to burn anymore omoney on this pos any ideas , or should i try the tvrepairkits stuff., oh and there are 4 white wires hanging off my processor is that normal??

not sure what you mean by that?
Larry D.

oh btw where did you get the 4 capacitors from and what was the value of the caps. you replaced??
Larry D.

i put in 35v 1000 120 capasitors, yes they were from the shack, i order them cause the store here didnt carry them. I have 4 white wires hanging off what looks like a processor or somthing right in the front of the middle board, there is a wire at each corner? do u know if thats right? 2nd= my light is still blinking, 3rd= i do not have a manual i bought the tv very cheap and thought i could fix it, but i dont want to spend a ton of money if it wont ever get fixed. 4th= i read in a another web site to replace the 9v regulator, should i? if so were is it?...... thnks for the help.... i can upload pic of my board if it will help

I have a WS-55513 that has already had a green light fix a year ago. Now my picture is going all crazy after it is turned on for about a minute. The picture is normal at first and then it gets squiggly lines that look to be horizontal across the screen. If I turn it off and then right back on it will get fuzzy faster each time. My friend who fixed this tv last time says it sounds like it is a thermal problem concerning a horizontal regulator???, not an exact quote. He directed me to this website because he is not very sure what is going on with it and wanted me to ask if anyone had any ideas of what to replace? Thanks

sounds like the 9 volt regulator the IC9a50 regulator chip common fault with these Mitsubishi sets go to the site of tvrepairkits.com go to the contact us button and leave a message and ask sales for the 9 volt regulator ic leave the message for Ed or click herehttp://www.tvrepairkits.com/xcart/home.php?partner=larry and then go to the contact us button ask for the IC 9A50 chip that should take care of the problem you have. GOOD LUCK
Larry Dillon

Sounds good. I will let everyone know how it works.

Hi Larry,

Some time ago you diagnosed my wd62725 that it either needed a new bulb and if that didn't work then a new ballast. I got the new bulb and that didn't work. Well I sent the tv to the garage for sometime and finally gave in and ordered a ballast. I installed it last night, and like always nothing goes quite right. Now, the amber light under status, just blinks continuesly when i plug the set in. Did I do something wrong, or did something get damaged while it sat in my garage. It was however in a safe place and well covered. What do you think?

Thanks

Tim E

if the amber bulb is now blinking or just on, means the lamp door is not secured properly, or that it is not instalkl right. or look and check the larger and the smaller caps on the power supply board as well as the FMT board.
they might have sighns of swelling at the tops of them.
Larry

Hello,
I have a ws 65611 and it is blinking a 2-2-2-2 code. What does that mean and can anybody give me pointers on a DIY job or recommend a repair shop in southern cali? thanks. panerainy@gmail.com

Speed

I tried to email you privately but it kept freezing and would not let me-strange.Anyway your article was how we fixed our tv today.THANKYOU! Now we have a new problem!We pushed the power button on and it depressed into the tv-can't get it to pop out or work.Question:to get to it do you have to go in thru back of tv or is there a way to remove front cover? My husband said"Ask that guy-he knows everything!" so do you know how to help us?

Thankyou!

Kim :)

no you need to remove the function button board from the rear of the set. the board unplugs so take out the board as per the service manual and look at the board is the board cracked?is the small tact switch that the button makes contact with? perhaps the button assembly where all the push buttons are all attached broken? most of these are considered cosmetic parts and are no longer available. but if the button is jammed in the switch remove it so the switch is no longer depressed and then you should be able to use the remote to turn on your set!!
Larry Dillon.

Hi Guys,

I also have the dreaded blinking green light on my Mitsubishi wd52527. The light turns on and off like clockwork. Do you think anyone can help me with this?

Thanks.

20benny00@sbcglobal.net

Thank you Larry-the tv was given to me so I do not have a service manuel.Is there a way to download the manuel from a site?
I am so glad this site exists!You rock!
Thanks
Kim

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