Mitsubishi "Blinking Green Light" Repair Procedure

This Article is written to provide assistance and step-by-step guidance in resolving the Mitsubishi "Blinking Green Light" issue. This failure is often referred to as the "Blinking Green Light of Death" or BLOG. A large amount of information is included in this Article, all of which will help you to both understand and repair the 'Blinking Green Light' problem.

Written specifically for the Mitsubishi 65" WS-65813, this article ALSO applies to other Mitsubishi models with the same 'blinking green light' issue.

The Mitsubishi 'Blinking Green Light' failure is common with many Mitsubishi models including the WS-65813, WS-48513, WS-48613, WS-55513, WS-55613, WS-55813, WS-65513, WS-65613, WS-65713, WS-73513, WS-73713 and others. This detailed repair procedure will assist, even the NOVICE, in the required repair process. Links are provided for downloading Mitsubishi Service Manuals and for recommended parts ordering. Circuitboard photos are also shown which provide a visual reference during the repair process.

I hope that this Article helps you to resolve your Mitsubishi "Blinking Green Light" issue.

Background

When I encountered the 'blinking green light' issue with my Mitsubishi 65" WS-65813, I called Mitsubishi's Customer Service Department. Following repeated promises to correct the issue, it soon became evident that they were both "dragging" their feet and not at all anxious to admit liability for this failure or to provide a timely repair of the television. After several phone calls to Customer Service, I sent a detailed letter to Mitsubishi Customer Service with a copy to Mitsubishi's President & CEO outlining my concerns and asking for a "good will" repair of my 65" Mitsubishi. After waiting about three weeks for Mitsubishi to assign one of their Authorized Repair Dealers to repair the unit, I repaired the television myself.

Mitsubishi Customer Service did not follow up on the issue and I never received a acknowledgement letter from Mitsubishi's President and CEO.

Repairing It Yourself

If you decide to repair the TV yourself, I recommend that you obtain a copy of the repair manual for your Mitsubishi TV from the Techlore website by going to Mitsubishi Service Manual. It will provide some direction, however it is technically written and may be difficult for the NOVICE to understand. If you are unable to locate the the service manual for your specific Model at the above Techlore link, you may need to purchase the service manual online at ServiceManuals.net.

If you decide to have a service technician do the repair, insist that the "DM" module is removed from the TV and ONLY the four 1000uF, 16V Capacitors (Caps) located on the DM Module are replaced. MOST techincians will INSIST on replacing the entire DM Module and not simply the capacitors. The cost is about $200 for a technician to replace the capacitors and $1000 for replacement of the DM Module. As you will read below, doing the repair yourself will cost less than $4.00 for the 4 Caps.

Overview

I repaired my Mitsubishi WS-65813 by replacing the four (4) DM Module 1000uF, 16V, 85C Capacitors. The basic tools and materials required were: Four (4) capacitors, soldering iron, rosin solder, wire cutters, phillips & flat-head screw drivers and pliers.

Repair estimates, from a local authorized Mitsubishi Repair Center, was between $800 - $1000 to replace the DM Module. My total out-of-pocket cost for replacing the four (4) capacitors was $3.50.

Replacement Parts:

Replace the original four (4) 1000µF, 16V, 85ºC capacitors on the DM Module with Radial Polarized, 1000µF, 35V, 105ºC Capacitors.

Description: Computer Grade Electrolytic Capacitors or High Temp Electrolytic Capacitors; Capacitance = 1000µF; Voltage = 35 V; Operating Temperature Range = - 20º C to + 105º C; Termination Style = Radial, Operating Hours = 10,000 Life Hours. The original DM capacitors are rated at 1000µF, 16V, 85ºC. Do not use capacitors with this rating to repair your Mitsubishi television, or else the same issue will reappear in 1-2 years.

The capacitors are available from several on-line electronics stores and possibly from a local television repair shop. I recommend that you use ONLY high temp Capacitors rated at 105º C, with a voltage rating of 35 V. Refer to the "General Information" section below for additional information about purchasing the capacitors from a online website.

If you decide to take on the repair project yourself, pay CLOSE attention to my "Lesson Learned" note; a copy of which is provided below. This was posted to TechLore on October 4th, 2007. See comments below.

Copied from a previous Techlore posting. Quite important:

October 4, 2007 3:30 PM

Lesson Learned: Larry, For your information and others, after replacing the 4 capacitors on the DM Module, I slid the DM circuit board back into the metal DM case and then inserted the entire unit into the main circuit board. This was working in the "blind" as it was impossible to verify a proper seat of the DM circuit board onto the mother board. The blinking green light was still present upon power-up of the TV. I again removed the DM module from the TV and this time I re-installed the DM circuit board onto the main mother board and THEN installed the DM metal case over the top of the circuit board. By doing this, I was able to ensure a proper connection of the DM board. Upon power-up the TV is UP and RUNNING.

A Few "Cautions"

  1. Keep yourself "grounded" when working with the circuit board. Static electricity will destroy electronic components.
  2. When replacing the Capacitors, press them "down" onto the circuit board as far as they will go, hold them down, solder into place and clip the excess terminal lengths flush with solder. Only by doing this will the metal shield (little silver box) slide down and over the circuit board during re-assembly. There is not a lot of clearance when doing this, as the 105C Capacitors are slightly longer that the originals. With minimal effort everything does fit back together.
  3. Use ONLY 105º C capacitors with a voltage rating of 35 V.
  4. Re-insert the DM circuit board into the Mother board; press virmly and ensure a proper seat of the DM board. Next, slide the metal case down and over the DM circuit board. Refer to my "Lesson Learned."

General Overview of Mitsubshi Power-up Cycle

Normal Power-up Sequence: During TV power-up, the green light blinks until the Digital Modulator (DM) has booted up and is in sync with the microprocessor. Once the two are in sync, the television will "turn on". A failure in this boot up process is indicated by the "blinking green light" continuing to flash and the television's failure to "turn on".

Problem: Continuous "blinking green light". Mitsubishi television will not "turn on"; no video and/or audio; no audible noise or sound from the TV. Blinking green light will extinguish ONLY by unplugging the Mitsubishi from its power source.

Basic Troubleshooting

  1. Press the "reset" button and hold for 10 seconds .... Does TV turn on and blinking green light turn to solid green.
  2. Unplug the TV from it's power source for various times, ranging between 5 minutes and 24 hours..... Does blinking green light continue upon plugging in the TV.
  3. Disconnect ALL devices from the TV; DVD, Tuner, Cable Box, unplug the TV for various duration times .... Does blinking green light continues upon plugging in the TV.
  4. Press Power and Menu buttons simultaneously and hold depressed for 20 seconds .... Does blinking green light continue to flash.
  5. Press Power and Display buttons simultaneously and hold depressed for 20 seconds .... Does blinking green light continue to flash.
  6. Insure that no front panel buttons are inadvertently stuck in an "engaged" position.

Diagnosis: If none of the above test resolve the issue, then the failure lies in one of the following:

  1. DM Module Capacitors have FAILED.
  2. DM Module is defective.
  3. EEPROM Board failure
  4. Power Supply failure.

Perform a Mitsubishi "error code" diagnostic check to assist in determining where the problem lies. Refer to your Owner's Manual for specific procedures on running this check. You may also read Mitsubishi Television Error Code Diagnostic Procedure which is posted on Techlore's website.

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General Information

For this repair you will need a Phillips screwdriver, a 15 or 25 watt soldering iron, a desoldering tool (recommended), and four electrolytic capacitors. For the optional fan replacement you need a PC cooling fan, zip ties, foam tape (or weather stripping) and a 12v AC to DC power adapter. Note: The cooling fan is not required provided you replace the capacitors with Caps having a 105c high temp rating.

I recommend replacing the original (bad) 1000µF, 16V, 85ºC capacitors with Panasonic 10,000 hour, Radial Polarized, 1000µF, 35V, 105ºC high temp capacitors. The Panasonic Part Number is EEU-EB1V102. The capacitors may be purchased from a local electronics repair shop or online at digi-key.com. The Digi-Key Part Number is P13126-ND.

If you require a soldering iron, I recommend Radio Shack's 15 Watt Soldering Iron, Part # 64-2051 or the 25 Watt Soldering Iron, Part # 64-2070. Radio Shack also has a desoldering tool, Part# 64-2060, which you may find helpful in removing old solder from the connections, without damaging the board. A basic 11 piece Electronic Tool Kit, Part # 64-2803A may also be of value. The cost for each of these tools is between $10 and $20. Similiar tools are also available from Lowe's, Home Depot or Wallmart.

This is a fairly simple repair for those with a little soldering experience.

Start by unplugging the TV. Disconnect the coax and digital audio cables and remove the rear panel.

Remove the plastic panel mounting screws and set the panel aside.

If you are going to install a fan, position it on the right side of the shield (as seen from the rear) and mark its outline with a pencil. It is easiest to install the fan with the shield removed from the TV, but by marking its mounting position first, you will avoid placing the fan on a part of the shield that has an obstruction. The DM guide partly covers the capacitors that need cooling and the metal tray under the CRTs also restricts fan placement.

Remove the four (4) screws that secure the DM Module. For the left side screw, it may be easier to pull out and set aside the PWB-DEMOD board. It is a small vertical card just to the left of the DM and has a broad copper grounding spring. This will simplify access to the left side DM shield mounting screws. See the pictures below:

Left side of DM Module

Front side of DM Module

Right side of DM Module

Unplug the USB and Firewire cables from the top of the DM, as well as the cable that runs from the front input jacks to the connector on top of the terminal board. Unscrew the grounding strap from the top of the doubler shield.

Remove the 2 screws in the plastic bracket that holds the DMÃ Module in place. After removing both screws, pry the plastic piece away from the support piece to which it is mounted.

The DM Module and the shield are removed vertically. In order for there to be enough clearance, the chassis needs to be pulled toward the rear of the TV. All the electronics are mounted on a tray that can slide back like a drawer to make servicing easier.

Remove the board slide, which is a narrow fiber board that stretches the width of the TV above the rear of the chassis and shields the light box from scattered light. It is held in place by a long black screw on either side of the TV. Use caution as the board may fall when the screws are removed.

Undo the wire ties on the cables going to the front of the TV. You will need slack in these wires as you slide the chassis out. You will also need to unplug some of the connectors on the shorter wires. Remove the screw (a) on the edge of the chassis and screws (b) on the xx813. See diagram below:

Release the chassis lock tab on either side of the chassis. The tray may be a bit hard to slide, so alternately tug on the left and right edges to rock the tray rearward. Go slowly in case you've missed freeing a wire bundle. Pay attention to the large red anode wires and other cables on the right hand side as they are clipped to the frame of the TV. Pull the chassis back until the DM shield will clear any obstructions above.

Remove the screws holding the DM shield. (Note: Do not use a power screwdriver on these screws as it is very easy to strip the threads.) There are two on top of the shield, two in the rear base, and one in the middle of the base on either side of the shield. The DM shield can be snug and hard to pull up. Gently rock the shield front and back while applying upward force. You may want to hold down the board below (DTV-TUNER) to avoid disturbing the ribbon connectors to the signal board. The DM itself also comes out straight up, but it is not nearly as tight.

Remove the DM Module by pulling it straight up (toward the top of the television). DO NOT pull it at an angle. The DM Module is connected to the circuit board by 4 sets of pins.

Once the pins are free from the onboard connectors, continue pulling straight up. There is a plastic guide that makes it necessary to pull the DM Module straight up and sliding it over the plastic guide.

With the DM Module removed and positioned, as shown in the photo below, remove the 2 screws located next to the USB and IEEE-1394 jacks and slide the DM circuitboard out of the metal case.

The next and most important task will be to carefully remove and replace the 1000µF, 16V, 85ºC capacitors with 1000µF, 35V, 105ºC capacitors.

CAUTION: Handle the DM circuitboard by the edges to avoid static damage. If you hold the DM with the components facing you and the external connectors on the left, you can find the capacitors in question in a cluster on the top right corner of the board.


Here is what a typical capacitor failure looks like:

The top of the capacitors shown above may only have a slight bulge, but they have indeed failed.

Desolder and replace all of the capacitors at the same time. When inserting the new capacitors, pay close attention to the polarity. The rear of the board has the positive terminal labeled and the longest lead is positive. The capacitor body has the negative terminal marked by dashes running down one side. All the capacitors have the same orientation:

Insert all four capacitors as close to the board as possible. The Panasonic capacitors are 4mm higher than the stock capacitors and there is very little extra room inside the shield. If properly installed, the DM Module case will fit over the DM board during re-assembly.

The picture below shows the underside of the DM board after the capacitors have been removed.

With the BAD capacitors removed, thread the new capacitor leads through the holes in the DM board. Ensure that you have the positive and negative leads on the capacitors threaded through the proper hole. With the capacitors in place, maintain pressure to firmly seat the capacitors against the circuit board and carefully solder each connection. It will help considerably if someone provides assistance during this very important soldering step.

Replace the original 1000uF, 16V, 85C capacitors with Radial Polarized 1000uF, 35V, 105C Capacitors.

If you are going to install a cooling fan, do so now. Once again, if you have used capacitors with a 105ºC temp rating, the cooling fan is not required or recommended. If installing the fan, stick some foam tape or adhesive weather stripping to each corner of the fan. This will minimize fan vibration noise and provide the fan with some clearance from the shield. The shield has a thin ridge that runs diagonally and prevents the fan from sitting flush, but the foam tape will allow the fan to straddle the ridge.

Place the fan on the pencil lines you drew earlier and secure two diagonal corners of the fan with small zip ties through holes in the shield. The zip ties are flat and their low profile will allow the shield to slide over the DM board without getting caught. You can run your fan from a 6v power supply to minimize noise, but test it first since not all PC fans will spin up with just 6v.

For individuals with the Mitsubishi WS-55859, WS-55909, WS-65869, WS-65909, WS-73909 or other Mitsubishi models with seven (7) of the 1000uF, 16V Capacitors on the DM Module instead of four (4), the two photos below may provide a visual orientation when looking at the DM Module circuit board. In this case replace all seven of the original capacitors with those having a rating of 1000uF, 35V, 105C.

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Re-Installation

Installation is the reverse of removal. The DM will slide down onto the four connectors at its base and there is a plastic vertical guide to ensure proper alignment of the board. Be careful not to bend the copper grounding springs that touch the connector end (rear) of the DM as it slides back into place. Carefully slide the DM shield back over the DM board and be careful not to snag the taller capacitors. Install the 6 screws that secure the DM in place. (Note that the two screws on the top of the DM shield are different from the other four). Plug the PWB-DEMOD card back in and ensure that its copper ground spring is touching the left edge of the DM shield.

Slowly slide the chassis back into the TV and be careful not to pinch any wires running to the front of the TV. The chassis should click as the release tabs lock into place. Secure the chassis with the long black screws. Reconnect all the wires you had removed and secure the excess slack back into the wire ties. Plug the USB and Firewire connectors back on the top of the DM and plug the cable from the front inputs back onto the top of the terminal board. Screw the grounding strap to the top of the doubler shield. Do not over tighten it as it is easy to break the threaded mounting plate on the shield. Install the DM rear cover and screws. Reconnect the coax antenna and digital audio cable back into the DM (if applicable).

Lastly, put the board slide back and remember that it could fall unless properly screwed in place. Double check all the connectors on the boards to be sure you haven't missed reconnecting anything. Install the rear cover of the TV and route the optional fan's power cable over the top of the rear cover to avoid pinching the cable.

Plug the TV back in and the front light should blink for about a minute as the DM boots. When the light has turned off, power up the TV and verify operation. If all goes well, your TV should boot in about one minute and there should be no more interference in the picture or OSD.

WS-65813 Advanced Troubleshooting

For those more technically inclined than most, you may enjoy the following. For the rest of you, IGNORE these checks.

  1. CHECK FOR 12 VOLTS DC (AC-OFF DETECT) AT PIN 3 OF PC9A21 IF MISSING REPLACE PC9A21 PART # 268P058020 ON THE POWER PCB.
  2. SHORT DETECT SHUTDOWN (PIN 13 OF IC700) CHECK FOR OPEN L902 PART # 351P155010 OFF Q904 C (15 V SUPPLY) ON THE MAIN PCB.
  3. SHORT DETECT SHUTDOWN (PIN 13 OF IC700) CHECK FOR SHORTED D913 PART # 264P722010 AND OPEN Z901 PART # 283P039020 (Z905 AND Z900 M.
  4. CHECK FOR BAD CAPACITORS IN DM MODULE.
  5. CHECK FOR 10 VDC AT PIN 5 OF IC502 OF LOW, CHECK IC503 PART # 270P704010 ON THE MAIN PCB.
  6. SUSPECT SHORTED WINDINGS OF T5A31 PART # 349P216010 ON THE MAIN PCB.
  7. SHUTDOWN AT POWER WITH SELF DIAGNOSIS ERROR 2 2. CHECK FOR LEAKY C9A60 470 PF 1000 V PART # 154P400030, PARALLEL TO D9A57 ON THE POWER PCB 2. SHUTDOWN AT POWER WITH SELF DIAGNOSIS ERROR
  8. CHECK FOR OPEN FUSES F9A04 AND F9A05 ON THE +24 AND -24 VOLT LINES. IF THE FUSES ARE OPEN THE CONVERGENCE OUTPUT CIRCUIT WOULD BE SUSPECT.
  9. SHORTED HORIZONTAL OUTPUT TRANSISTOR.
  10. COOLENT HAS LEAKED ON THE MAIN BOARD FROM THE CRT'S AND HAS DAMAGED THE MAIN BOARD BEYOND REPAIR.

Also, if the 24 volt B+ and or B- is missing from the convergence ICs, change both convergence ICs as well as the defective pico fuse in the power supply. This is most likely not a quicky type of repair. These are a few of my notes on this set from me and a few of my buds in the buisness. Good Luck and let us know how you made out with this set.

A Word of Caution

To all of you who may be attempting the capacitor fix on their Mitsubishi a word of caution. Modern circuit boards are easily damaged by static electricity. Tech's in the industry use grounding wrist straps when handling these boards. Simply walking across a room with the circuit board in your hand could damage it. Try to ground yourself to the metal chassis of the tv when touching circuits. Even though the TV is not plugged in it will equalize your electrical potential. Handle the circuit board carefully by the edges when taking it to your workbench. Try to ground yourself while soldering on the board. I bring this up after reading some posts that stated after changing out the caps they ended up with new or different problems. That's why you see new circuit boards shipped in the anti static special plastic bags.

This DM board communicates with the sets internal microprocessor. That's why if the set is working properly, and you first plug the set in, the light blinks and then stops blinking. When it stops blinking, that means the DM has booted up and is all in sync with the microprocessor and ready to go. If the set does not stop blinking, that is an indication that the DM has not booted up and communicated with the microprocessor. This is the basic explanation, as there is a lot more to it than this:

  1. Could be poor solder connections, the power coming to the DM board from the main power supply could be bad.
  2. The EEPROM could be bad
  3. The power supply or sweep power supply could have bad connections or swollen capacitors.

The first thing to do is check all of the plugs, connectors, and connections to and around the DM board. Next would be to check for other large capacitors on other boards with swollen tops. The next thing would be to start checking power supply upon switch on. But, first do the diagnostic test as explained in the service manual. Maybe it will point you in the right direction.

If you have taken the time to follow these advance trouble shooting instructions and the Blinking Green Light continues to be a issue, a service tech may be required to complete the repair.

I hope that this Article has provided guidance and assisted in the repair of your Mitsubishi's "Blinking Green Light" issue.

Speed

Resources

Mitsubishi Service Manual: Mitsubishi Service Manual

If you require additional assistance or advice, feel free to send me a private message.

Contact information for Mitsubishi Customer Service:

MITSUBISHI DIGITAL ELECTRONICS AMERICA, INC. (MDEA)
9351 Jeronimo Rd.
Irvine, CA 92618
Mitsubishi Consumer Relations
800.332.2119
Fax: 949.609.4900

President & CEO (July 2008)
President & CEO
Ikuo Morisada
Mitsubishi Electronics
9351 Jeronimo Rd.
Irvine, CA 92618

E-mail: imorisada@mitsubishi-tv.com

Comments

Larry Dillon said: oh man scary clowns remind me of that wcary clown in the movie with the big scary teeth try this:If picture is dark or goes dark intermittently with or without lines and or fuzzy picture or if the screen turns blue and the set shuts off, check IC9C25. Could be bad, or bad connections It is on the signal board. Right behind the input or what's called the terminal board. The IC is a BA09FP. This IC supplies 9 volts to the terminal board. Try re-soldering the three legs on the PC board first first. IC9C25 (9-volt regulator) part # 270P677030. BA09FP regulator from B&D Enterprises in Russell, Pa. http://www.bdent.com there are three terminals on this ic. there is one on the right and the left sides of the part. the middle lead has zero voltage on it because it is the ground leg of the chip. the one on the one side should have 9 volts the other side should have 12 volts on it. very common for this to have bad-solder connections if you are missing the 12v volts you have an open circuit between the low voltage power supply and the ic. If you have the 12 volts but no 9 volts the ic is bad!!!! GOOD LUCK!!!!! Larry Dillon.

Hi Larry, I found the IC and tested it. I did not get the 12 volts so I re-soldered the connections and still no 12 volts and inputs are still showing no signal. I am a rookie so I am not sure which circuit could be open between the IC and the power supply. I also noticed that the card reader on the front of the set is not working. When I select the card reader input the screen gets distorted flashing in a skewed manor.

While I was at it I replaced the 2 stk394-250 chips and re-aligned the convergence. That part looks good. So I got good colors and OSD menu working with no green blinking light, but I have no 12 volts on that IC9C25. Any ideas?

PS how's this for a scary clown pic? lol

the 12 volts on that ic is an input so it comes from the low voltage power supply look on the power supply block diagram. there may be a resistor or fuse-able resistor inline of the ic. the 9 volt is the output if you have the 12 volts there look on the signal board schematic or not sure if it is in the block diagram or not.
Larry Dillon.

Larry Dillon said: the 12 volts on that ic is an input so it comes from the low voltage power supply look on the power supply block diagram. there may be a resistor or fuse-able resistor inline of the ic. the 9 volt is the output if you have the 12 volts there look on the signal board schematic or not sure if it is in the block diagram or not. Larry Dillon.

I don't see IC9C25 on the power supply block diagram but I am suspecting F9A01 which is a 125V 10A fuse that leads to 12V to DM - It also connects to IC9A21 - Does this sound about right? I can send you the service manual if you want to glance at it.

-EB

ic9a21 is not located on the low voltage power supply but on the signal board and no i have just about every Mitsubishi manual ever printed but thanks.Larry. i am sorry but I do not have the time right now to look through the service manual and go through point by point, component by component. sorry.
Larry

Larry Dillon said: ic9a21 is not located on the low voltage power supply but on the signal board and no i have just about every Mitsubishi manual ever printed but thanks.Larry. i am sorry but I do not have the time right now to look through the service manual and go through point by point, component by component. sorry. Larry

No need for apologies Cool you have helped so many people here I can't imagine where you ever find the time. I can't find IC9C25 on any of the block diagrams in the service manual, but we know it's there! Right?

Anyway, I went back and tried grounding the black lead of my multimeter to the heat sink for the convergence chips and tested IC9C25 again. Having a better ground I got 12.53 volts on one side and 1.83 volts on the other side of the IC. So I ordered a new IC from Audio Lab of Georgia

www.audiolabga.com for $1.75 plus shipping, total $5.97. I should have it in a few days.

Thanks Larry!

if you have the 12 volts on one side and lower than 9 volts on the other then you made a great conclusion the ic is bad as I said before. I have found many of these ic's to be bad!!!!
Larry Dillon.

Hi Larry,

I have to say thank you as well. I can't believe your kindness. I seem to have the blinking green light of death as well. If you could send my the replacement guide for the capacitors, I would be extremely grateful. I am a newbie to this, but any help is better than none and I have nothing to lose.

My model is a WD-52725

My email is butters5407@yahoo.com

Thanks

Larry or Speed,

I have a mitsubishi diamond tv 65" 65813. I turned on my TV and have the same blinking green light problem as many others. I have unplugged and have tried the reset button which didn't work. Can you please send me the repair instructions along with the necessary parts? My e-mail address is jeffreykuehnel@aol.com. Thanks in advance for any help you or anyone else is willing to share.

jeffreykuehnel@aol.com

Larry or Speed,

I have a 65909. I had the infamous blinking green light. I have changed the capasitors and now when I plug it in, the light stops blinking after about 30 seconds. However, when I hit the power button it comes on for about 30 seconds, but then it shuts off and the green light starts blinking again.

I do not have anything hooked up to it (cable box or even a coaxial cable to the wall)

Thanks a ton,
Brandon

bhopper@bankfab.com

Larry or Speed,

I have the 65909. I had the infamous Blinking Green Light. I changed the capasitors and the blinking green light quits after about 30 seconds. However, when I hit the power button the TV comes on for about 30 seconds and then shuts off and the green light begins blinking again.

I have nothing hooked up to the TV. It is plugged into the wall and that is it.

Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Brandon

bhopper@bankfab.com

Larry Dillon said: if you have the 12 volts on one side and lower than 9 volts on the other then you made a great conclusion the ic is bad as I said before. I have found many of these ic's to be bad!!!! Larry Dillon.

LARRY IS THE MAN!!

Words can not express my gratitude for your help. I received the BA09FP (IC9C25) today and replaced the old one. It worked perfectly!! I was so amazed that such a small component was critical to the operation of this TV.

Without touching it with my hands, I used a tweezers to remove the old IC9C25 and to set in the new one. I tested everything including the card readers and the set is working perfectly. Larry, if you ever need anything at all, please feel free to email me and I will do for you what ever I can. I am an advanced flash designer and an expert in web graphics. I have been building websites for special applications for over 12 years. Streaming media is my specialty so anytime you need help let me know.

THANKS A MILLION!!

i guess you do not remember what i said to you before about the repair help?? it is too bad!glad to hear you fixed your own set and saved several hundred bucks!!
Larry ;>(

Hi Larry,
HELP!!!! I also have the dreaded green flashing light with my Aug 2002 built Mitsubishi WS55511. We only use the TV at our family holiday get together for about 20-25 hours a year so it isn't overused by anymeans. The store we bought it from in Decatur, Illinois was Team Electonics who we thought was very reputable at the time. About 2 years after we got it they went out of business and we couldn't find anyone else to work on it. Plus didn't want to shell out $800-1000 after initally spending over $3000 for it. ANYWAY, after seeing some of the posts I got enough couage last night to take the DM board out. None of the capacitors seem to be bulged to the naked eye. I plan on replacing them anyway, unless you think differently. Basically what is my next move? And what else should I do while I have it opened? Where do I get the capacitors? Thank you Larry for any and all help and information. Techlore is in my main bookmark area. Take care, Shooter (Dave) shooter1951@frontier.com

The best advice I can tell you is to go to tvrepairkits.com and order the blinking light kit for your model of set, the kit comes with the high temperature/ high frequency/long life 105 Celsius type capacitors (not those cheap Radio Shack caps) full easy to follow pictorial directions, AND free live on-Line tech assistance in case you run into a problem, all kits are shipped out within 24 hours in most cases, 2 to 3 day Priority mail. GOOD LUCK!!!this repair will save you several hundred bucks if you follow the instructions
Larry Dillon,

Hi Larry, 1st, many thanks for your expertise that you share on this site. I appreciate your time and contribution very much. Question, I've a Mitsubishi DLP with blinking green light, followed your great instructions and replaced all bad caps. Set powered up with blue screen and setup menu, but then shut down. On reset the unit indicated bad exhaust fan (red lights, 1 long 2 short)I did check ballast fan and it ran with pwr, the exhasust fan did not. I replaced the fan with cmptr 3 wire fan. The set will power up, but i do need to push reset to get it thru blinking green. It will power up, fan begins to run, but then shuts down and i get the blinking red light, 1 long 2 short. Any suggestion. Many thanks again for getting me this far. Mikerepair.

Larry,
Well, I took my DM board on my WS55511 into the shop Monday to have the 7 caps replaced. Tuesday I thought I would contact Mitsubishi customer service since I had read on some of the forums others with this problem had their warranty extended some. Well it must of been cloudy in the Philippines because the rep I talked to had a pretty bad disposition. After about 10 minutes of back and forth after he said I was out of luck he said he would kick my problem up to his superior to the next rung on the ladder. HOWEVER he would have to call me back when he got time. Wednesday the call came in. This guy after listening to my situation basically told me thanks for spending over $3 grand to buy a Mitsubishi set BUT NO CAN HELP!! He said there were NO reported PROBLEMS of bad capacitors with the model I had!! I told him POLITELY I could forward numerous posts on three different forums to VERIFY a problem!! AGAIN, Sorry WE CAN'T DO ANYTHING!! I WAS HOT!! To add insult to injury I got my DM board back today (with $80 less in my pocket), reassembled the set, AND AGAIN I HAVE THE BLINKING LIGHT!! I unplug the set for 2 hours, go outside to sit and cool down. Come back in, plug it in and STILL ALL I HAVE IS THE DAMN BLINKING GREEN LIGHT!! What can be done?? I hate to spend another penny on this thing!! Is there ANYTHING that I can do to get this thing turned on?? I feel like all I have is a 55" boat anchor!! I'LL NEVER BUY ANOTHER MITSUBISHI PRODUCT!!
Dave (Shooter)

sorry dave did you use the right capacitors? where did they come from? hope not radio shack!!!!!???? also check all the fuses on the dm as well the rest of the set please.

Larry, No the capacitors didn't come from Radio Shack. I had read where there was a problem with those and made sure the shop didn't use them. He assured me they already knew there were problems with their caps. I ask him to check the fuses on the DM board when I dropped it off on Monday. Today his son was working the front desk and I forgot to ask for sure if he checked them. i will have to waut until tomorrow to see if they are open on Saturday to ask. On another forum (can't remember now which one) someone with a ws55511 mentioned his problem with the green light was resolved by unplugging a small white plug on the controls. He mentioned there is also a longer black plug close to it so make sure you unplug the smaller one. He said the set would come on but you would have to use the front controls instead of the remote. I'm not sure where these plugs are at. When I remove the front speaker cover there are two black plugs, one smaller than the other. I tried unplugging that one but there was no power. Any idea what plug he was talking about? And does he know what he's talking about? Thanks again Larry, I do appreciate your time and effort. Regards, Dave

i think they are talking avbout the fc plug off of the dm, then unplug the set, plug it back in and see if the light stops flashing if it does try to turn on the set if it comes on plug back in that small fc plug.
Larry

Hi Larry, good to see you back on. Do you have any suggestions on my current issue. Did replace all capacitors you recommended for BGLOD, some did look bad, but now apparantly don't have power to the exhaust and ballast fans. Red light indicating such. on initial pwr up they did have blue screen and got menu, but then it shut down and only get this problem. the fans do get power initially but then shut down. I was going to check volts on pwr board like RobinH as it does supply pwr directly to the fans.
Thanks in advance for any of your help.
Mike melabarge@aol.com

Bhopper said:
Larry or Speed,
I have the 65909. I had the infamous Blinking Green Light. I changed the capasitors and the blinking green light quits after about 30 seconds. However, when I hit the power button the TV comes on for about 30 seconds and then shuts off and the green light begins blinking again.
I have nothing hooked up to the TV. It is plugged into the wall and that is it.
Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Brandon
bhopper@bankfab.com

Bhopper

 I fixed my BGLOD problem a couple of months back by changing the caps as prescribed by Larry.  However, yesterday I decided to install a new HDTV antenna and noticed during the install that when I had no input RF signal connected to the TV the blinking green light cames on for about 30 seconds and then the TV turned off.  Once I connected the antenna the TV started working properly again. 

You said that "I have nothing hooked up to the TV".  If you haven't done so already, you may want to hook uo your cable box, satellite box, ar antenna as it appears that, at least in my case, the set searches for an input signal and if it doesn't find one will generate the dreaded blinking light scenario.  I also get the blinking light for about 30 seconds after any power failure. 

Just a suggestion.  Good Luck!!!

Speed , Add one more success story to the growing list, The first try with the 35V Caps failed due to lack of room to position them in the WS65909 daughter board. I ordered the 25V 12X21 mm size Caps and they fit just barely and the TV has risen from the dead. I cannot tell you how much your help here has been to me, quick responses to m questions. All I can say is Thank You very much. For all those out there with this problem, there is hope , trust yourself , follow Speeds instructions to the letter, and you too will be enjoying that HD once again.

Yea with the help from my instructions he published!!!!! It would have been better to use the 1000uf@16volts @105 Celsius as if you used the 85 type caps and not the 105 Celsius type they will blow out the dm board within a month or so as it is not the voltage that needs to be changed and not the voltage that makes them go bad.but they get hot because they are on all the time as the DM never shuts off.it will last longer if you install a small PC fan onto the DM. glad it all worked out for you man!!
Larry Dillon

Well I guess I should be glad that he also indicated that they be the higher Temp 105C, Knowledge is always one mans inventive discovery, Its the teachers that relate the info and help Students understand the prinicples of applying that knowledge no matter where they learned it. His help as a teacher (IE putting up with my continual questions as to exactly what each step was about and why) His very quick response to my E-mails greatly assisted me in my endeavors. So you may have published the info, he learned it to a level of professionalism. Given that I read no less then 10 articles on the same issue on different Blogs and posted a question here, of which only Speed responded. ( ? ) why didnt you respond to it first ??. His was indeed the help I needed and got. Next time maybe you'll respond too. I still thank him for his help, By the way thanks for posting the info for everyone who has learned it so well.

Mr. Dillon, First let me say Thanks, with your help I was able to once again get my Mit 65 Tv working again. I've followed your instructions and replaced all 4 caps; However #1. There is video once again but no Audio from the TV (short term solution: I now route cable box audio directly to my surround sound system). #2 when I place the DM board back within the metal case, the tv does the BGLD again and never resets. I am now watching the Tv without the metal case-surround protecting the DM board. #3 Is this a bad thing to do? Model WS-65313 (i think, I'll re-confirm the model #)

Thanks, Art
Philly_pa@hotmail.com

you really should unplug the set and reinstall the metal case around the DM!!!!!
Larry D.

May I ask, where did you get the capacitors from???
Larry D.

Larry Dillon said: May I ask, where did you get the capacitors from??? Larry D.

Arrow Electronics. I ordered the Panasonics.

 Art

Were they the high temp 105 Celsius types??

Yes, I ordered the high temp Caps. Used the part numbers listed throughout this forum. Not sure why DM board works outside of metal case and not inside. I purchased extra caps, should I redo?

Howdy,

Great advice, my question is convergance chips is 392-250a the same as 392-250 chip?

Thanks Ray

Many replys on this topic. I have a WD-52527 with the same blinking green led. I have removed the chassis and power board to gain access to the DM board. I was looking for the Jamico caps that I have heard are the most common cause of this. However, I only see one small Jamico cap roughly in the middle of the board, not a cluster. I do see some larger caps on the power board. None of them are swollen, but I realize that may not matter. Just looking for a little guidance. Maybe I should just replace them all? I can post a pic of the board if that will help.

Larry Dillon said: if you have the 12 volts on one side and lower than 9 volts on the other then you made a great conclusion the ic is bad as I said before. I have found many of these ic's to be bad!!!! Larry Dillon.

Hey Larry, my ws65713 has a fuzzy and grainy  picture. I Checked and rechecked all the convergence alignment and pain-stakingly re-aligned everything but still have a fuzzy picture. All the colors look good but the text letters are rough around the edges and the horizontal seems to be abnormaly large.

Any suggesions?

sorry without a photo of the problem I cannot tell
Larry Dillon.

Ray, those are most likely aftermarket or china made IC'S you do NOT want to use those in your set,The best advice I can tell you at this point is to go to tvrepairkits.com and order the complete convergence kit for your model of TV set, no need to search and order multiple parts from different sources and pay multiple shipping fees! The kit comes with original Sanyo STK IC'S , not those cheap aftermarket or china made IC'S full pictorial directions, the thermal paste, resistors, the correct Pico fuses, AND free live on-Line tech assistance in case you run into a problem with the repair. They ship out 2 to 3 day Priority mail, the next day in most cases GOOD LUCK!!!
Larry Dillon.

Speed/Larry,

You have obviously helped a lot of people and I'm hoping you can help me. I have a WD-52725 and am experiencing the same blinking green led problem. The problem has been getting worse to the point where the tv will not work. I look at the techlore manual download for the WD-52725 and see reference to a DMD but that is about it. First, does my tv have the same capacitors you have stated needs to be replace? If so, how many should I be looking for? Is the manual you referred to at the servicemanual.net different (better with more diagrams and descriptions) than what I downloaded from techlore and would you recommend me getting it? Will my DM board look like the one skyboss found in this WD-52527? Appreciate any insight you can give me before I open up the set. Thanks & Cheers.

no no on that model there are caps on the DM, FMT, and the power supply boards.
Larry D.

Hi,

Hi,

This thread has been very informative, but I haven't found anything about my green light issue.
I have an ws-65819. About a week ago I turned it on and it immediately went off.
I did some research and did a code check and it threw a 2, 4 code.

Some additional research led me to believe I had bad convergence chips and or resistors.
So I got replacements (sanyo stk) and put them in. Checked the resistors and picos on that board all ok. Upon turning it back on, same thing. Light on, light off. Code 2, 4.
My last resort tonight will be to check the pico fuses on the PWR pcb,
Are there any other suggestions?
Hate to lose this TV - 7 years just doesn't seem right with such little usage...

thanks!
R

jm_jyuzef said:

reduck,

It is a vertical deflection failure. http://www.techlore.com/forum/thread/19407/Mitsubishi-WS-65813-Blinking-Green...

I did see that. Still need to get back to the last 2 Pico fuses. I'm scratching my head since everything is checking out good so far...
yea, I know, it will probably be the last fuse I check..

thanks,
R

Can anyone help, was just given a ws-b55, it has the dreaded blinking light I have been reading about. I will try changing the caps in the dm unit. any other tips if this fails.

Hi,

Hi,

I have a Mitsubishi 65813. I have the blinking green light issue. I got the four high temp 35V capacitors, replaced the bulging ones, checked all my solder connections, and put everything back together making sure the DM was seated correctly. Result: I still have the blinking green light.

Can anyone help? It seems the TV will not budge from its current state. I can do testing, run routines, try any error code checks you like, but please give me some options. I tried putting the unit into Error Check mode (pressing the MENU/DEVICE at the same time for a minute). No response. The green light continues to flash the same way.

My TV has been in pieces for two days now. I can include pics of anything you request. I am very good at following instruction and will report back findings ASAP. I am in PST.

Thanks,

-Kirk

UPDATE: In checking fuses, I found one of them missing! It was a chip fuse on the back of the DM. The two F9B02 were there and checked out, but the solo F9B00 just had two empty squares where the chip used to be attached! Well, I looked around the floor and found it! It looked a bit damaged, so I will replace it tomorrow (I hope I can find it). To make sure that was the only issue, I *TEMPORARILY* bridged the circuit. Plugged the DM back in and attached all cables....voila...green light stopped blinking! I hit power and the TV came to life. I never thought that would happen again. I quickly shut it down and unplugged it.

I hope that this helps others in their efforts. These surface mounted chip fuses are tricky. They can be easily knocked off. I'm not even sure how I am going to attach the new own. There are not posts. It looks like it is glued to the CB.

UPDATE; UPDATE:

I got a 4A 125V pico fuse from Frys Electronics. Trying to find a chip fuse is impossible locally and trying to find a pico fuse locally was almost impossible. If you really want to replace the chip fuse, you can go here:

http://ultimate.partsearch.com/Part/Mitsubishi/Mitsubishi/WS55511/Mitsub...

I think the pico fuse will be fine. I had to manipulate it a little to make the contacts work, but the TV fires right up and all seems to be fine. We'll see how it goes.

SIDE BENEFIT:

I noticed over the past year or more that there were diagonal lines that would rolls across the screen. It would not happen all the time (most of the time it did) and it would pulse at different rates. Now that I replaced the capacitors, the lines have stopped! It is amazing that the picture looks so much better. I am amazed. I guess it makes sense. If the DM capacitors were failing (or starting to fail), maybe the image would be affected. It was annoying, but I just got used to it. Now that it has stopped, boy, what a difference. It looks so much better in 1080i.

Just thought I would share this with people that may have failing capacitors. The lines may be a sign that the capacitors are starting to fail.

I had the blinking problem and changed the 7 capacitors. My power went out and it happened again. I am going to try and change them again, is this nessary or could it be something else? I am also going to install a surge protector just in case. Do you have any recomendations on where to get the caps. and what brand is better? I have model # ws65869 e-mail twelvegauge2@verizon.net

twelvegauge said:
I had the blinking problem and changed the 7 capacitors. My power went out and it happened again. I am going to try and change them again, is this nessary or could it be something else? I am also going to install a surge protector just in case. Do you have any recomendations on where to get the caps. and what brand is better? I have model # ws65869 e-mail twelvegauge2@verizon.net

Based on my TV (65813), I only had four.  You should ALWAYS have a surge protector on ANY sensitive electronic device.  I even have my Power Conditioner plugged into a UPS.  Computers expect it.  Look inside your TV...basically 2-3 little computers running, and I dare say more expensive than a computer these days.  In reading this article, I grabbed these from DigiKey (www.digikey.com).  They sent them right away.  I actually ordered eight in case I messed up the four.  Good thing too, since I actually redid the install with the second set of capacitors since I had to lay them down.  Here are the part details:

Replacement Parts:I recommend replacing the original (bad) 1000µF, 16V, 85ºC capacitors with Panasonic 10,000 hour, Radial Polarized, 1000µF, 35V, 105ºC high temp capacitors. The Panasonic Part Number is EEU-EB1V102. The capacitors may be purchased from a local electronics repair shop or online at digi-key.com. The Digi-Key Part Number is P13126-ND.

 

 

We have a Mitsubishi WT46809 It was working fine and this morning I turned it on and it shut right back off. The green light will come on and stay on for about 2 seconds and then power off. Nothing shows up on the screen. We held the input and menu buttons down and it blinks 2 times stops 2 times stops 2 times stops etc. Anyone have any idea what is wrong and how we can fix it????

Thanks

Hi larry, I have a mitsubishi WD-62527 rear projection 62" TV. It was manufactured in Oct of 2005. A few years ago there was a power surge and the surge protector failed and the TV got hit. It has the blinking green light and I have researched over the internet to try to find the problem and fix it myself but i haven't had any luck finding a repair manuel or other instructions that match the model. But i have seen similar models with the same problem with the green light and the bulging capacitors. So im pretty sure thats the problem. I received some instructions a year or two ago and i was told that the TVs were similar so i decided to take a crack at it. i took the TV apart and pulled out the DM boards. But the pictures i was sent in the instructions were still different and i have not removed any of the boards from the cage and it was been just sitting in another room ever since and i haven't really done anything with it. In the mean time i have managed to somehow lose the instructions i was given and i am now trying to find another and hopefully for the right model. If you have any information on this TV model any of it will help greatly.

I also scrolled through the comments that have been posted and you have said not to use the radio shack capacitors because of a temperature thing. where would you recommend getting some caps other then from the manufacturer.

playert73193@msn.com

Ed

WD-62527 said:  If you have any information on this TV model any of it will help greatly.
I also scrolled through the comments that have been posted and you have said not to use the radio shack capacitors because of a temperature thing. where would you recommend getting some caps other then from the manufacturer.
playert73193@msn.com
Ed

Hi Ed,

 I would suggest you look at the first three pages of this thread (I posted a comments a few days ago on a similar issue).  It tells you the procedue and where to get the parts.  Get them from Digi-Key.  They are cheap and they send them to you quickly.

 Good luck,

 -Kirk

This is an update on my blinking green light problem. THANK YOU for suggesting tvrepairkits.com, I sent for the seven caps put them. The set works great.

I cant thank all of you enough for sharing this information. I just followed all of the procedures and WALA!! My WS65869 is up and running again after sitting for nearly a year... thank you all who have shared with this information..

Happy Holidays

John

I've got a question, I had the green light of death. I did the fix and every thing works great. The problem I have now is when I view over the air HD it will revert back to the green light of death.I can unplug it to reset it and I'm good but can't use HD on the TV. Any Thoughts????????????

Hi Larry:
I was wondering if you could give me some advise? I just got a Mitsubishi 73

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