I suspect the high voltage circuit and/or the sweep circuitry has gone Bad. Repairs of this kind are typically in the $300 to $500 area. For a set of this size and over the age of 8 years I would not advise spending any significant money on it. Why? Because, due to the law of averages, there are other components that are likely near failing and so you fix it and low and behold a few days/weeks later it fails again. Soon, with a second or third repair bill, you have invested as much money as it would have cost to buy a new set. You have heard of those who get their set fixed only to have it break down again in a few days. The customer is quick to blame the repair shop for shoddy work when in reality it is that the set has, among its thousands of internal components, developed a failure of another component of the same age or manufacturing source. So, I would be very cautious in fixing it unless you are technically gifted and want the challenge of fixing it by yourself, and taking the chance on how much longer it will go before going out again. Bottom line? Pioneer stuff is good; but they, like all the rest, don't last forever.
Let us know if you have further questions and please also keep us informed of the repair progress
Larry, you helped me with my Mitsubishi WS-55813 and it works like a charm now. I have a Pioneer Elite Pro 119 and it no longer powers up. There's a red LED that stays on. When you hit the standby/on button, the tv comes on and immediately goes off. I was given information that this set is infamous for cold solder joints. So I was going to pull the power/deflection board and look for/repair any cold solder joints. Do you have any information like the factory service manual on this unit, or a similar one? Also any tips that might prove useful? My thanks in advance.
My set is doing the same as Groovyfingers, I was told it night be the power supply? Do you have a place to start to see if it can be fixed cheap, before i throw it away?
Groovyfingers and Brian, I am sorry as I do not have any info on this unit for you. You could go in and look at the capacitors and see if you find any tops of the capacitors that are swollen. Do you have an exact model number of the Pioneer? If you give me that, I will look around and see what info I can find on this TV set. Good Luck.
The best i can come up with would be the service manual. They have if for a download HERE. When you get the manual, send it to my e-mail address and I will see what i can do for you.
Based upon a conversation with a Pioneer service center, the problem seems to center around what is called a :deflection assembly" otherwise known to us as a power suply module. Defective convergence ICs can also cause this. (STK 392-180) The deflection assembly runs about $450. Your choice as to whether you want to spend that kind of money. BTW the part is still available.
I have seen that where the stk will pull down the ps, and prevent the tv from coming on. with the pioneers.Been away doing the Christmas thing, i will keep checking back in but i will probably will not post as much until after Christmas.Marry Christmas Everybody!!!
I'm looking at 3.1 Overall Wiring Diagram, pages 18 & 19. The Convergence Assy. appears to be plugged into the Tuner-Video Assy. Would you just unplug it from the Tuner-Video Assy, or disconnect plugs "B", "C", and "R" going to the Power Supply, or both/neither? It would be great to focus on either the Convergence Assy or Power Supply, and this would give me a direction to go.
Larry Dillon said: Groovyfingers and Brian, I am sorry as I do not have any info on this unit for you. You could go in and look at the capacitors and see if you find any tops of the capacitors that are swollen. Do you have an exact model number of the Pioneer? If you give me that, I will look around and see what info I can find on this TV set. Good Luck.
I don't know much, that's obvious. Searched and found out that STK's are a power amplifiers. Correct me on that if I'm wrong. zapdbf stated that an STK can fail and pull down the power suppy, preventing the set from coming on. I'm assuming these would be in the audio assy, or do they populate the entire set?
The STKs are the convergence ICs and are rather large black parts attached to even larger heatsinks. As I stated in an earlier reply, these can cause the problem as well. These STKs are about $25 each. Hope this helps,
dans_repair_service said: Based upon a conversation with a Pioneer service center, the problem seems to center around what is called a :deflection assembly" otherwise known to us as a power suply module. Defective convergence ICs can also cause this. (STK 392-180) The deflection assembly runs about $450. Your choice as to whether you want to spend that kind of money. BTW the part is still available. Dan
I thought that was just a part number, now I see your reply correctly. Thank you for your info.
Hi guys. I also have a Pro-119 with exactly the same problem. I called a local repair guy who told me that it was most likely the convergence board or the power/deflection board, but also suggested that I might not want to spend $500 or more to get this set fixed. I'd like to see if there's something I can do to nurse the set back to health for at least a little while longer, and would like also to further isolate the problem to one board or the other. Can anyone comment on groovyfingers' question about how to disconnect the convergence board posted 12/20? This sounds like a great test as long as it won't fry anything.
I also read that someone noticed a red led on the power board comes on. They thought this was to indicate a problem. This red led come on in my set also for the 1 second before it shuts itself off. Does anyone know if this is really an error indicator, and if so, anything about what kind of error it's indicating?
Larry Dillon said: Yeppers, I spoke to someone tonight that recommended to disconnet the convergence IC's and see if the set stays on.
This is what I did. With the set unplugged, and poking around with one hand, I removed three screws that mount the convergence assy to the drawer. This board is on the left side of the drawer as you are sitting in back of the tv, looking to the front of the tv. Two screws are on the outer edge, closest to you. One is up at the front, towards the tv front. You have to really pull the drawer out a ways to get that one. Then I pulled the convergence assy off the lower board and removed three small plugs that are marked with lens colors (red, green, & blue). Don't mix these up! With the convergence assy out of the mix, I plugged in the tv, and powered it up. Green light on for about 15-20 seconds then a pop in the speakers, and it was red again. Powered it up a second time, and the green on interval shortened, another pop, and back to red. This continued until it was as before, green for a second, then red. I thought at first I had found the problem, until it went from green to red the first time. With my luck, I've got two problems, the convergence assy and the power supply assy. Larry, or anyone, can you chime in and comment? Was this a valid test? What is your take on what I found?
No you do not want to disconnect the red, blue, and green plugs, the power cable on the convergence board is what you need to disconnect, and do not run the set for any period of time if the set does come on. You want to disconnect the plug marked G3 on the convergence board. That is the plug where the plus and minus convergence voltages comes in on.
Larry Dillon said: No you do not want to disconnect the red, blue, and green plugs, the power cable on the convergence board is what you need to disconnect, and do not run the set for any period of time if the set does come on. You want to disconnect the plug marked G3 on the convergence board. That is the plug where the plus and minus convergence voltages comes in on.
Both G3 and G7 are on the bottom of the convergence assy and plug into the tuner/video assy. I can't just unplug G3. Would it be valid if both G3 and G7 are unplugged? I'll try this when I get home, leaving G4, G5, & G6 plugged in (convergence yokes). Tell me what you think.
Larry Dillon said: Yeppers, that is a valid test I would think.
If the set stays on, would it then stand to reason that the STK's are defective on the convergence assy? And replacement would cause the board to live again?
Thanks to all for the commentary above. I tried unplugging the convergence board (leaving the R G and B connectors attached). The set continued to shut itself off immediately. I'm going to remove the power board, dust it off, check the caps, and examine the solder joints with a magnifying glass. I may just touch them all up with an iron. Any other suggestions? I'll let everyone know what happens.
It worked! I removed the power/deflection board and started touching up solder joints. I did about half of the board -- all the connections on the left side as viewed from the component side. Most of them had that dull, cold solder appearance, but that could just be 10 years of exposure. I found one that might have been bad on the small connector (6 or 7 pins) closest to the front of the set (P3?), but I can't be sure that was really it. For all I know, the flexing involved in the process of removing and replacing the board may have re-connected something. In any case, it's working for now...who knows for how long.
Thanks to everyone for your help, advice, opinions, thoughts and guidance. I'll check back periodically in case anyone has any questions that I can help answer....and of course when it breaks the next time. Thanks again, and good luck to all.
This thread is great, I have precisely the same problem.
I just replaced the flyback transformer, as apparently that's a source of much problem, and again, the TV would switch on then go back off...I almost want to throw a brick at it.
So would you suggest following the same steps? I don't have a service manual, let alone an owner's manual, to even follow. I'm feeling quite lost!
I suspect the high voltage circuit and/or the sweep circuitry has gone Bad. Repairs of this kind are typically in the $300 to $500 area. For a set of this size and over the age of 8 years I would not advise spending any significant money on it. Why? Because, due to the law of averages, there are other components that are likely near failing and so you fix it and low and behold a few days/weeks later it fails again. Soon, with a second or third repair bill, you have invested as much money as it would have cost to buy a new set. You have heard of those who get their set fixed only to have it break down again in a few days. The customer is quick to blame the repair shop for shoddy work when in reality it is that the set has, among its thousands of internal components, developed a failure of another component of the same age or manufacturing source. So, I would be very cautious in fixing it unless you are technically gifted and want the challenge of fixing it by yourself, and taking the chance on how much longer it will go before going out again. Bottom line? Pioneer stuff is good; but they, like all the rest, don't last forever.
Let us know if you have further questions and please also keep us informed of the repair progress
Larry, you helped me with my Mitsubishi WS-55813 and it works like a charm now. I have a Pioneer Elite Pro 119 and it no longer powers up. There's a red LED that stays on. When you hit the standby/on button, the tv comes on and immediately goes off. I was given information that this set is infamous for cold solder joints. So I was going to pull the power/deflection board and look for/repair any cold solder joints. Do you have any information like the factory service manual on this unit, or a similar one? Also any tips that might prove useful? My thanks in advance.
I was hoping to clean the lenses and mirror on this unit if I can get it working. That's why the request for the manual.
Larry,
My set is doing the same as Groovyfingers, I was told it night be the power supply? Do you have a place to start to see if it can be fixed cheap, before i throw it away?
Brian
Groovyfingers and Brian, I am sorry as I do not have any info on this unit for you. You could go in and look at the capacitors and see if you find any tops of the capacitors that are swollen. Do you have an exact model number of the Pioneer? If you give me that, I will look around and see what info I can find on this TV set. Good Luck.
Back sticker has this info-
Pioneer
Projection Monitor Receiver
Model Pro-119
AC 120 volts
60 hz
280 watts
their address and statement of origin (Made in USA...)
S/N SEPT006443US
May 1996
Hope this helps.
Let me see what i can come up with on this.
The best i can come up with would be the service manual. They have if for a download HERE. When you get the manual, send it to my e-mail address and I will see what i can do for you.
Based upon a conversation with a Pioneer service center, the problem seems to center around what is called a :deflection assembly" otherwise known to us as a power suply module. Defective convergence ICs can also cause this. (STK 392-180) The deflection assembly runs about $450. Your choice as to whether you want to spend that kind of money. BTW the part is still available.
Dan
Yeppers, I spoke to someone tonight that recommended to disconnet the convergence IC's and see if the set stays on.
I have seen that where the stk will pull down the ps, and prevent the tv from coming on. with the pioneers.Been away doing the Christmas thing, i will keep checking back in but i will probably will not post as much until after Christmas.Marry Christmas Everybody!!!
I'm looking at 3.1 Overall Wiring Diagram, pages 18 & 19. The Convergence Assy. appears to be plugged into the Tuner-Video Assy. Would you just unplug it from the Tuner-Video Assy, or disconnect plugs "B", "C", and "R" going to the Power Supply, or both/neither? It would be great to focus on either the Convergence Assy or Power Supply, and this would give me a direction to go.
My model is the PRO-119
Sounds like the same as groovyfingers
Also, what is an stk? I believe that ps is power supply.
I don't know much, that's obvious. Searched and found out that STK's are a power amplifiers. Correct me on that if I'm wrong. zapdbf stated that an STK can fail and pull down the power suppy, preventing the set from coming on. I'm assuming these would be in the audio assy, or do they populate the entire set?
The STKs are the convergence ICs and are rather large black parts attached to even larger heatsinks. As I stated in an earlier reply, these can cause the problem as well. These STKs are about $25 each. Hope this helps,
Dan
I thought that was just a part number, now I see your reply correctly. Thank you for your info.
Hi guys. I also have a Pro-119 with exactly the same problem. I called a local repair guy who told me that it was most likely the convergence board or the power/deflection board, but also suggested that I might not want to spend $500 or more to get this set fixed. I'd like to see if there's something I can do to nurse the set back to health for at least a little while longer, and would like also to further isolate the problem to one board or the other. Can anyone comment on groovyfingers' question about how to disconnect the convergence board posted 12/20? This sounds like a great test as long as it won't fry anything.
I also read that someone noticed a red led on the power board comes on. They thought this was to indicate a problem. This red led come on in my set also for the 1 second before it shuts itself off. Does anyone know if this is really an error indicator, and if so, anything about what kind of error it's indicating?
This is what I did. With the set unplugged, and poking around with one hand, I removed three screws that mount the convergence assy to the drawer. This board is on the left side of the drawer as you are sitting in back of the tv, looking to the front of the tv. Two screws are on the outer edge, closest to you. One is up at the front, towards the tv front. You have to really pull the drawer out a ways to get that one. Then I pulled the convergence assy off the lower board and removed three small plugs that are marked with lens colors (red, green, & blue). Don't mix these up! With the convergence assy out of the mix, I plugged in the tv, and powered it up. Green light on for about 15-20 seconds then a pop in the speakers, and it was red again. Powered it up a second time, and the green on interval shortened, another pop, and back to red. This continued until it was as before, green for a second, then red. I thought at first I had found the problem, until it went from green to red the first time. With my luck, I've got two problems, the convergence assy and the power supply assy. Larry, or anyone, can you chime in and comment? Was this a valid test? What is your take on what I found?
No you do not want to disconnect the red, blue, and green plugs, the power cable on the convergence board is what you need to disconnect, and do not run the set for any period of time if the set does come on. You want to disconnect the plug marked G3 on the convergence board. That is the plug where the plus and minus convergence voltages comes in on.
Both G3 and G7 are on the bottom of the convergence assy and plug into the tuner/video assy. I can't just unplug G3. Would it be valid if both G3 and G7 are unplugged? I'll try this when I get home, leaving G4, G5, & G6 plugged in (convergence yokes). Tell me what you think.
Yeppers, that is a valid test I would think.
If the set stays on, would it then stand to reason that the STK's are defective on the convergence assy? And replacement would cause the board to live again?
Thats a great ending! If that's what happened?
No, I was just projecting. That is, asking an opinion.
Thanks to all for the commentary above. I tried unplugging the convergence board (leaving the R G and B connectors attached). The set continued to shut itself off immediately. I'm going to remove the power board, dust it off, check the caps, and examine the solder joints with a magnifying glass. I may just touch them all up with an iron. Any other suggestions? I'll let everyone know what happens.
Good Luck Gary. Have you tried calling PTScorp.com yet and see if they rebuild these types of boards?
Hi Larry and all...
It worked! I removed the power/deflection board and started touching up solder joints. I did about half of the board -- all the connections on the left side as viewed from the component side. Most of them had that dull, cold solder appearance, but that could just be 10 years of exposure. I found one that might have been bad on the small connector (6 or 7 pins) closest to the front of the set (P3?), but I can't be sure that was really it. For all I know, the flexing involved in the process of removing and replacing the board may have re-connected something. In any case, it's working for now...who knows for how long.
Thanks to everyone for your help, advice, opinions, thoughts and guidance. I'll check back periodically in case anyone has any questions that I can help answer....and of course when it breaks the next time. Thanks again, and good luck to all.
Great news Gary! You can get lucky sometimes with these thing. Maybe just a bad connection on the board.
This thread is great, I have precisely the same problem.
I just replaced the flyback transformer, as apparently that's a source of much problem, and again, the TV would switch on then go back off...I almost want to throw a brick at it.
So would you suggest following the same steps? I don't have a service manual, let alone an owner's manual, to even follow. I'm feeling quite lost!
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