I have the WD-62825 that is in the shop for repair. Thank god I have a service contract because they are sending the chassie back to mitsubishi for repair. I knew from reading here that this is best way to repair it and the tec at the shop agreed with me.This question is for the people that have had the chassie replaced.Have you had any more problems with it or have mine just begun.I have 2 more years on my contract.Thanks for all the info.
Hi Larry (or anyone else who might help or listen),
I have a WD-62825 also that is four years old and also has the blinking green light of death. Over the last few years, every time the power goes out I've had to unplug and plug it back it anywhere from 5 to 20 times and it would come back on... The other day bulb #2 "popped" and the red light turned on. I already had another bulb so I opened it up and replaced the bulb and then cleaned the filter... It hasn't turned back on since that bulb failed. Nothing but green light of death since...
I pulled the chassis out, replaced four 1000uf 16v caps on the Power board (two were bulged), replaced four of the same caps on the FMT board (three were bulged), and also replaced all four of the same caps on the DM board (all four were bulged), for a total of 12... Put it all back together - same problem...
In "testing" the switch on the lamp cover causes the yellow light so it appears to be working. Same for the filter cover switch, it appears to be working too. I pulled the lamp ballast out and it doesn't change anything, (light still blinks green so I'm wondering if somehow that is bad since it doesn't change) and also triple checked the connections to the lamp. When I disconnect the temperature sensors the yellow light also comes on and I am able to hit "Menu" and "Device" for five seconds and I get code 38 or 39 which is for the two temp sensors and it goes back to blinking green when connected. This is the only time I can get an error code, otherwise it just "ignores" me.
So I believe all of those items are working with the exception of the possiblity of the lamp ballast and I can't find anything in the service manual or anywhere else on how to troubleshoot it. In addition, if it makes any difference for the last few weeks the screen has been flashing or rolling, but it's intermittent and fast enough that it's not too noticable so I wonder if that has something to do with it?
I might try the power switch thing that I read in this thread, but would rather find the actual problem first if I could. Anyone that has more information on troubleshooting components to figure out what is wrong please let me know. My email is (edited out) if Larry is still kind and healthy enough to send me what he has with any other possible insights. (As of 01/06/09 Larry never responded...)
I called my local dealer who is very upset with Mitsubishi and he told me to call Mitsubishi to see if i can get them to pay for at least the parts because sometimes they will and sometimes the won't... Mitsu told me too bad... Needless to say, I'll try to fix my "investment" since I spent so much but I'm done buying Mitsubishi products and I'll be sure to tell all of my friends my experience.
They can add my name to any suit against Mitsubishi. They knew and know that these Dlp's are a piece of garbage. I got the green light of death as well
yea the ? is any one realy going to do it im all 4 it . i sent my chassie in and thay wanted my credit card # i hope thay go bankrup !!! i want to be in the law suit i still got my recipt u please let me know if anyone is heading up the law suit !!!!!
Hi Larry, it seems you are the saint who helps everyone with this blinking issue. Well, I am another soul that needs your help on this with my WD-62825.
Please email me at [email protected]. Thanks a bunch and have a blessed new year.
Well, I now feel like one of the lucky ones. I had purchased the 5-yr warranty for my 62825 and ended up with the blinking green light a few months ago. Finally called it in and the service company sent the whole chasis back to Mitsubishi. It took about 6 weeks to get it back but my tv has been working for just over a week now. I was worried that I would have a $5000+ paper weight. Good luck to all.
I have replaced all 35 of the 330uf and larger caps on all of the boards, and I still have the same blinking green LED. I was told by the service center in Canada that this all has to do with the DM board not booting. I am getting all of the proper power to the DM board, so the DM board itself is the issue. Replacement cost for a board swap is $635! Does anyone know what else on the DM board could cause this issue?
Out of the 35 caps I replaced, 30 were puffed. I also replaced 4 SMT caps (100uf) on the DM board that were puffed as well.
I inherited a 52825 with the BGLOD issue and decided to take a swing at repairing by replacing the caps. I replaced: The two 3300's and four 1000's on the power board, as well as four 1000's on the DM. Now I don't get a blinking green light, or any lights, I can hear the big transformer on the PS board buzz and no power to speak of. When I have the chassis fan hooked up, it turns sporatically. It seems by the way the buzzing gets louder and then quiet and the fan turns and stops, that the little bit of power going to the set is pulsing?
I had put it back together after just replacing the two 3300's and the problem began then, so I don't think it's related to the 1000's. I have also replaced the 3300's again just in case I bought a bad cap and it's the same. BTW, I am trying to run it with the chassis out of the set but all wires / cables hooked up.
With my limited electronics experience, I know that a buzzing transformer usually doesn't necessarily mean the x-former's bad but something down stream is messed up. What is going on?
As noted previously above, my 12 1000uf caps didn't fix my problem... I just got off the phone with PTS Corp http://www.ptscorp.com/ and they charge a $50 fee to check the DM board on the bench... If it's bad, they will repair it and send it back to me for $254.50 (flat fee but still MUCH cheaper than a new one)... All you have to do is package it up, mail it to them with all of your pertinent contact information and TV model inside the box (they fix all the boards if you have others in question) and they will call you when they receive it to get your credit card information.
Shipping address for anyone interested is:
PTS Corp
2000 South Liberty Drive
Bloomington, Indiana 47403
Pretty slick if you ask me... I'm going to send the Power board and the FMT board in too since I replaced capacitors on all three and they only charge $50 for each board if they are good so I can hopefully get my tv back soon...
Dis-A-Pointed said: Update... As noted previously above, my 12 1000uf caps didn't fix my problem... I just got off the phone with PTS Corp http://www.ptscorp.com/ and they charge a $50 fee to check the DM board on the bench... If it's bad, they will repair it and send it back to me for $254.50 (flat fee but still MUCH cheaper than a new one)... All you have to do is package it up, mail it to them with all of your pertinent contact information and TV model inside the box (they fix all the boards if you have others in question) and they will call you when they receive it to get your credit card information. Shipping address for anyone interested is: PTS Corp 2000 South Liberty Drive Bloomington, Indiana 47403 Pretty slick if you ask me... I'm going to send the Power board and the FMT board in too since I replaced capacitors on all three and they only charge $50 for each board if they are good so I can hopefully get my tv back soon... I'll let you all know how it all goes!
Disappointed to hear that as well. Thanks for the info, I might need to contact PTS. Could you please email me instructions how to replace the caps and pull the DM board out? My email is [email protected]. Thanks a bunch and good luck!
I think we are having the same problem with a Mitsu WD 52825. The fan is running but the timer light is flashing green. Can you please send whatever repair info you have? Thanks, Mike [email protected]
I've never heard from Larry, so it's possible his health problems may have gotten the better of him... I don't have specific pictures or instructions (although I did find some pictures on other websites) but I can direct you to the service manuals that are online. They aren't very detailed, but with some time, bravery, and patience you can take it apart and put it back together on your own (as long as you have somewhat mechanical/electrical instincts) as I did.
I replaced 35 radial caps ranging from 330uf to 1000uf and 4 100uf SMT caps. I still got the green light! Out of the 39 caps I replaced, 30 were puffed.
I received an email from a guy about how to perform a reset of the DM board, and it works!
Locate the DM board and remove the connector labeled "FC". Plug in your TV and wait for the hard drive fan to turn on, then off a few times and the LED will finally go out. Now, plug the "FC" connector back in, and go watch TV! The only gotcha is that if you remove the power from the wall, you have to repeat the procedure. You can put a toggle switch between the orange wire that goes into the "FC" connector. This way, you can remotely do the reset. The DM is still broken, but this bypasses whatever check is done to allow you to watch TV.
As i stated before in a earlier reply - I wish i found the power connector test
on the DM board before taking the chassis all the way apart and replacing all those good caps. this would of saved alot a time.
Lets see - spend more money and wait 6 months for somebody to preform a questionable fix or do the test. If it works all you have to do is install a simple switch that no one will see but you.
I'am still watching mine with no issue's to report
Suggestion - add a 500 watt UPS power supply to the AC power. This will protect
against power outages and power spikes.
Well, just my luck... As I was taking it apart to mail my boards to PTSCorp, I thought I would try this board "reset" mentioned above... I found the connector labled FC (it's on the FMT board which in E.D.'s original post described as a four pin connector under a bundle of wires on the board to the right of the DM which is exactly where I found it) disconnected it, and the BGLOD still won't turn off... Tried diconnecting it with power, without power, also tried KP on the DM board (same four pin connector with same colors from power), tried both at the same time, hit reset button, waited 30 minutes... Nothing but blinking green... So it apparently doesn't work for all of them (just like the 1000uf caps don't work for all of them)...
1.unit must be UNPLUNGED from AC power
2.disconnect the four pin connector on the FMT board
3.Apply AC power to the unit
The set should take around 1 min. to reset (you will hear the disk drive run then stop then run again then stop).
At this point verify that you DONT have the Flashing Green LED
Do Not unplug from AC power
4.CAREFULLY plug the four pin connector back in
verify that you DONT have the Flashing Green LED
5.turn the set ON
Did that...
Had the chassis with covers off sitting on a chair behind the TV...
10 (probably more) times...
Didn't work...
Like I said tried plenty of other combinations last night too...
Blinking green light never turned off no matter what I did...
Several hours later, I took the boards out and packed them up...
Oh well, hopefully PTSCorp can fix my boards...
Thanks for the tip, hopefully it will work for someone else...
i amhavng the same green blinking light problem on my wd-52825. can u please send me the instructions on how torepair the problem. my email address is [email protected]. Thank u
Hi Larry,
I am I have joined the club because I too have the green blinking light. The TV repair guy wanted $500 for repairs with only a 90 day guarantee and I decided no way. So here I am. looking for repair instructions. I too have the WD-62825. I have tried to take all the screws off the back to try and get a look inside but I can't even get the cover to come off. Any words of wisdom are appreciated
MY SET (WD62825) WAS WORKING FINE UNTILL I PRESSED THE SYSTEM RESET NOW THE GREEN BLINKING LIGHT.. LARY PLEASE SEND REPAIR INFO TO [email protected] THANKS PAL..
Well, I now feel like one of the lucky ones. I had purchased the 5-yr warranty for my 62825 and ended up with the blinking green light a few months ago. Finally called it in and the service company sent the whole chasis back to Mitsubishi. It took about 6 weeks to get it back but my tv has been working for just over a week now. I was worried that I would have a $5000+ paper weight. Good luck to all.
I have replaced all 35 of the 330uf and larger caps on all of the boards, and I still have the same blinking green LED. I was told by the service center in Canada that this all has to do with the DM board not booting. I am getting all of the proper power to the DM board, so the DM board itself is the issue. Replacement cost for a board swap is $635! Does anyone know what else on the DM board could cause this issue?
Out of the 35 caps I replaced, 30 were puffed. I also replaced 4 SMT caps (100uf) on the DM board that were puffed as well.
Thanks! i'll give them a call & see what they say.
I have a WD-62825 with the flashing green light.
Can I please also get instruction emailed to me explaining how to fix this.
Thanks
[email protected]
Hi Larry ?
I posted a request for the "fix" on the blinking green light for a WD-62825... and no response.. You do respond to these requests right? Thanks
Could you send me the info for the class action & the repairs on the Mits for the blinking lights. thanks- [email protected]
I have the WD-62825 that is in the shop for repair. Thank god I have a service contract because they are sending the chassie back to mitsubishi for repair. I knew from reading here that this is best way to repair it and the tec at the shop agreed with me.This question is for the people that have had the chassie replaced.Have you had any more problems with it or have mine just begun.I have 2 more years on my contract.Thanks for all the info.
Hi Larry (or anyone else who might help or listen),
I have a WD-62825 also that is four years old and also has the blinking green light of death. Over the last few years, every time the power goes out I've had to unplug and plug it back it anywhere from 5 to 20 times and it would come back on... The other day bulb #2 "popped" and the red light turned on. I already had another bulb so I opened it up and replaced the bulb and then cleaned the filter... It hasn't turned back on since that bulb failed. Nothing but green light of death since...
I pulled the chassis out, replaced four 1000uf 16v caps on the Power board (two were bulged), replaced four of the same caps on the FMT board (three were bulged), and also replaced all four of the same caps on the DM board (all four were bulged), for a total of 12... Put it all back together - same problem...
In "testing" the switch on the lamp cover causes the yellow light so it appears to be working. Same for the filter cover switch, it appears to be working too. I pulled the lamp ballast out and it doesn't change anything, (light still blinks green so I'm wondering if somehow that is bad since it doesn't change) and also triple checked the connections to the lamp. When I disconnect the temperature sensors the yellow light also comes on and I am able to hit "Menu" and "Device" for five seconds and I get code 38 or 39 which is for the two temp sensors and it goes back to blinking green when connected. This is the only time I can get an error code, otherwise it just "ignores" me.
So I believe all of those items are working with the exception of the possiblity of the lamp ballast and I can't find anything in the service manual or anywhere else on how to troubleshoot it. In addition, if it makes any difference for the last few weeks the screen has been flashing or rolling, but it's intermittent and fast enough that it's not too noticable so I wonder if that has something to do with it?
I might try the power switch thing that I read in this thread, but would rather find the actual problem first if I could. Anyone that has more information on troubleshooting components to figure out what is wrong please let me know. My email is (edited out) if Larry is still kind and healthy enough to send me what he has with any other possible insights. (As of 01/06/09 Larry never responded...)
I called my local dealer who is very upset with Mitsubishi and he told me to call Mitsubishi to see if i can get them to pay for at least the parts because sometimes they will and sometimes the won't... Mitsu told me too bad... Needless to say, I'll try to fix my "investment" since I spent so much but I'm done buying Mitsubishi products and I'll be sure to tell all of my friends my experience.
Thanks for listening...
Hi Larry, please email me the fix instructions as well...same blinking green light issue. I am EE and going to try this myself...
Email is [email protected]
thx in advance! Mike
Larry,
Any chance you can send me the fix for the WD-62825 Blinking Green Light problem?
I would appreciate it!
Thanks,
Pman
[email protected]
They can add my name to any suit against Mitsubishi. They knew and know that these Dlp's are a piece of garbage. I got the green light of death as well
yea the ? is any one realy going to do it im all 4 it . i sent my chassie in and thay wanted my credit card # i hope thay go bankrup !!! i want to be in the law suit i still got my recipt u please let me know if anyone is heading up the law suit !!!!!
Hi Larry, it seems you are the saint who helps everyone with this blinking issue. Well, I am another soul that needs your help on this with my WD-62825.
Please email me at [email protected]. Thanks a bunch and have a blessed new year.
Hi Larry,
I also have a wd-62825 that has just started the blinking light issue. Can you send me the repair instructions?
[email protected]
Thanks!
Andy
Well, I now feel like one of the lucky ones. I had purchased the 5-yr warranty for my 62825 and ended up with the blinking green light a few months ago. Finally called it in and the service company sent the whole chasis back to Mitsubishi. It took about 6 weeks to get it back but my tv has been working for just over a week now. I was worried that I would have a $5000+ paper weight. Good luck to all.
I have replaced all 35 of the 330uf and larger caps on all of the boards, and I still have the same blinking green LED. I was told by the service center in Canada that this all has to do with the DM board not booting. I am getting all of the proper power to the DM board, so the DM board itself is the issue. Replacement cost for a board swap is $635! Does anyone know what else on the DM board could cause this issue?
Out of the 35 caps I replaced, 30 were puffed. I also replaced 4 SMT caps (100uf) on the DM board that were puffed as well.
Hi folks!
I inherited a 52825 with the BGLOD issue and decided to take a swing at repairing by replacing the caps. I replaced: The two 3300's and four 1000's on the power board, as well as four 1000's on the DM. Now I don't get a blinking green light, or any lights, I can hear the big transformer on the PS board buzz and no power to speak of. When I have the chassis fan hooked up, it turns sporatically. It seems by the way the buzzing gets louder and then quiet and the fan turns and stops, that the little bit of power going to the set is pulsing?
I had put it back together after just replacing the two 3300's and the problem began then, so I don't think it's related to the 1000's. I have also replaced the 3300's again just in case I bought a bad cap and it's the same. BTW, I am trying to run it with the chassis out of the set but all wires / cables hooked up.
With my limited electronics experience, I know that a buzzing transformer usually doesn't necessarily mean the x-former's bad but something down stream is messed up. What is going on?
Update...
As noted previously above, my 12 1000uf caps didn't fix my problem... I just got off the phone with PTS Corp http://www.ptscorp.com/ and they charge a $50 fee to check the DM board on the bench... If it's bad, they will repair it and send it back to me for $254.50 (flat fee but still MUCH cheaper than a new one)... All you have to do is package it up, mail it to them with all of your pertinent contact information and TV model inside the box (they fix all the boards if you have others in question) and they will call you when they receive it to get your credit card information.
Shipping address for anyone interested is:
PTS Corp
2000 South Liberty Drive
Bloomington, Indiana 47403
Pretty slick if you ask me... I'm going to send the Power board and the FMT board in too since I replaced capacitors on all three and they only charge $50 for each board if they are good so I can hopefully get my tv back soon...
I'll let you all know how it all goes!
Disappointed to hear that as well. Thanks for the info, I might need to contact PTS. Could you please email me instructions how to replace the caps and pull the DM board out? My email is [email protected]. Thanks a bunch and good luck!
Hi Larry,
I think we are having the same problem with a Mitsu WD 52825. The fan is running but the timer light is flashing green. Can you please send whatever repair info you have? Thanks, Mike [email protected]
To everyone,
I've never heard from Larry, so it's possible his health problems may have gotten the better of him... I don't have specific pictures or instructions (although I did find some pictures on other websites) but I can direct you to the service manuals that are online. They aren't very detailed, but with some time, bravery, and patience you can take it apart and put it back together on your own (as long as you have somewhat mechanical/electrical instincts) as I did.
The service manuals available (for this TV and others) on this website are here:
http://www.techlore.com/group/2/list_downloads
Good Luck... ;-)
I replaced 35 radial caps ranging from 330uf to 1000uf and 4 100uf SMT caps. I still got the green light! Out of the 39 caps I replaced, 30 were puffed.
I received an email from a guy about how to perform a reset of the DM board, and it works!
Locate the DM board and remove the connector labeled "FC". Plug in your TV and wait for the hard drive fan to turn on, then off a few times and the LED will finally go out. Now, plug the "FC" connector back in, and go watch TV! The only gotcha is that if you remove the power from the wall, you have to repeat the procedure. You can put a toggle switch between the orange wire that goes into the "FC" connector. This way, you can remotely do the reset. The DM is still broken, but this bypasses whatever check is done to allow you to watch TV.
As i stated before in a earlier reply - I wish i found the power connector test
on the DM board before taking the chassis all the way apart and replacing all those good caps. this would of saved alot a time.
Lets see - spend more money and wait 6 months for somebody to preform a questionable fix or do the test. If it works all you have to do is install a simple switch that no one will see but you.
I'am still watching mine with no issue's to report
Suggestion - add a 500 watt UPS power supply to the AC power. This will protect
against power outages and power spikes.
Hmmm...
Well, just my luck... As I was taking it apart to mail my boards to PTSCorp, I thought I would try this board "reset" mentioned above... I found the connector labled FC (it's on the FMT board which in E.D.'s original post described as a four pin connector under a bundle of wires on the board to the right of the DM which is exactly where I found it) disconnected it, and the BGLOD still won't turn off... Tried diconnecting it with power, without power, also tried KP on the DM board (same four pin connector with same colors from power), tried both at the same time, hit reset button, waited 30 minutes... Nothing but blinking green... So it apparently doesn't work for all of them (just like the 1000uf caps don't work for all of them)...
Damn, Damn...
1.unit must be UNPLUNGED from AC power
2.disconnect the four pin connector on the FMT board
3.Apply AC power to the unit
The set should take around 1 min. to reset (you will hear the disk drive run then stop then run again then stop).
At this point verify that you DONT have the Flashing Green LED
Do Not unplug from AC power
4.CAREFULLY plug the four pin connector back in
verify that you DONT have the Flashing Green LED
5.turn the set ON
Did that...
Had the chassis with covers off sitting on a chair behind the TV...
10 (probably more) times...
Didn't work...
Like I said tried plenty of other combinations last night too...
Blinking green light never turned off no matter what I did...
Several hours later, I took the boards out and packed them up...
Oh well, hopefully PTSCorp can fix my boards...
Thanks for the tip, hopefully it will work for someone else...
i amhavng the same green blinking light problem on my wd-52825. can u please send me the instructions on how torepair the problem. my email address is [email protected]. Thank u
Hi Larry,
I am I have joined the club because I too have the green blinking light. The TV repair guy wanted $500 for repairs with only a 90 day guarantee and I decided no way. So here I am. looking for repair instructions. I too have the WD-62825. I have tried to take all the screws off the back to try and get a look inside but I can't even get the cover to come off. Any words of wisdom are appreciated
Hello,
I am also experencing the green blinking light on my Mistubishi WD-62627 (Feb 2006 Build)
If any one has any docs or info that might help, please email me at [email protected] ...
Also you can include me in any class action lawsuit out there for this issue... please email me!
Thanks, John
MY SET (WD62825) WAS WORKING FINE UNTILL I PRESSED THE SYSTEM RESET NOW THE GREEN BLINKING LIGHT.. LARY PLEASE SEND REPAIR INFO TO [email protected] THANKS PAL..
Well, I now feel like one of the lucky ones. I had purchased the 5-yr warranty for my 62825 and ended up with the blinking green light a few months ago. Finally called it in and the service company sent the whole chasis back to Mitsubishi. It took about 6 weeks to get it back but my tv has been working for just over a week now. I was worried that I would have a $5000+ paper weight. Good luck to all.
I have replaced all 35 of the 330uf and larger caps on all of the boards, and I still have the same blinking green LED. I was told by the service center in Canada that this all has to do with the DM board not booting. I am getting all of the proper power to the DM board, so the DM board itself is the issue. Replacement cost for a board swap is $635! Does anyone know what else on the DM board could cause this issue?
Out of the 35 caps I replaced, 30 were puffed. I also replaced 4 SMT caps (100uf) on the DM board that were puffed as well.
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