Mitsubishi WD 62725 Status Light

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YevKazim
YevKazim's picture
Mitsubishi WD 62725 Status Light

I have the WD 62725, and I now am getting an intermittent error.  Soemtimes this occurs while watching TV, where the TV just shuts off, and other times the TV wont turn on the next day after being off overnight.

The symptom is that the Status Light will flash green repeatedly.  From reading other posts on other models, it seems like this could be a DM board.  Is this the case, and can someone share some info on the repair for me.

Thanks,

Larry Dillon
Larry Dillon's picture
Yev, have you got any

Yev, have you got any experience repairing TV sets or working on printed circuit boards? Can you solder? I will send you some documents on repairing the TV set, if indeed this is the problem, but you will need to have the know how of working on printed circuit boards. You will need to leave an e-mail address so I can send you the info. Good Luck

HAPPY
HAPPY's picture
Im an electrical engineer who

Im an electrical engineer who regularly builds and repairs scientifc instrumentation, so I feel pretty comfortable with any solder work.

My email address is yevkazim@hotmail.com

I appreciate any help you can give me.  I bought an extended warranty with my TV, but they appear to not be honoring it (ie they have conveniently lost any record of me in their system).

Larry Dillon
Larry Dillon's picture
Do you have proof that you

Do you have proof that you bought the warranty? If you do, go to the store and show the proof to the manager. If that does not work, send a letter to the State Attorneys office. I will of course send you the documents if you wish to do this yourself. Good Luck

taz
taz's picture
Larry - I have a WD-52725. 

Larry - I have a WD-52725.  My TV shuts off at varying frequency (anywhere from more than an hour from when it was first turned on to less than one minute).  It's had a surge protector on it since I bought it - tried replacing the bulb - no help.  Any advice you can provide would be great.  If you need to send me a file, my e-mail address is:

hancock.lain@gmail.com

I can do repair work on circuit boards if needed - thanks for the help.

Regards,

Lain

rolo
rolo's picture
Larry,

Larry,

I need some help getting my dmboard out of my wd-62725. The email you sent did not match the back of my tv. Do you have a guide for pulling the board?

Mike  mmanns@gmail.com

Kachnina
Kachnina's picture
Larry,

Larry,

I have a Mitsubishi WD-52725 bought in 2004. The local TV Repair shop (Certified by Mitsubishi) is clueless.  The Green Blinking Light then self shut-down is more common now than ever. It's happening every week instead of once every month to 2 months. I've seen in other similar forum strings that you have a file that may help. I have engineer friends than can do the soldering for me if I'm not up to the task. Can you send the file to me?

Streakerdt@comcast.net

Larry Dillon
Larry Dillon's picture
I just sent out the files you

I just sent out the files you all needed for your TV sets. Good Luck

hellfish
hellfish's picture
Hey Larry I think I'll move

Hey Larry I think I'll move over to this thread since these folks have similar sets to mine.  My TV  also experienced intermittent blinking light issues requiring resets before finally not responding to resets at all.  Just to recap...

I have a 62525 DLp that has the blinking light of death.  I opened the set and removed the DM board.  Replaced 4 1000uF 16V 105C caps; noticed 2 bad caps on the TERM-2 board.  Relaced those as well. Put it all together and I still have the blinking light issue.  Reopened the chassis and checked the fuses.  All fuses (little white surface mounts) check out with a meter.  I believe I checked the power supply fuse (A05) although it looks very different than the other fuses.  I reassembled taking care with those silly ribbon cable connectors.  I still have the blinking light issue.  The boot sequence is: Power applied; relay click; fan on; blinking light.  Does not respond to diagnostic keypress.  So my questions are...

Is there a chance that my firmware is corrupt and thereby causing the boot problem?

Are those ribbon cable connectors problematic?  Can it be an issue there?

I left the TV on last night and checked it this morning.  The chasis appears to be cooler than what I remember when it was within the TV and it was working.  None of the surfaces are hot--just barely warm in some locations.  Can I test the chassis plugged-in to the wall for power but not wired into the TV?  Can I harm the chassis testing the voltage levels with the chassis still assembled?

Any ideas?  Thanks in advance!

hellfish
hellfish's picture
My search for a solution to

My search for a solution to my TV problem has led me many places.  Finding this board is extremely difficult and expensive!  I did find a nugget of hope though.

PTS (800-844-7871) will repair your DM board for $175.00+shipping.  I asked what this $175 covers and they said they will repair the board as long as it does not have damage caused by liquid or burns.

Now the question is--am I sure it is the DM board?

HTH!

Curt1950
Curt1950's picture
mzorola said: My search for a

mzorola said: My search for a solution to my TV problem has led me many places.  Finding this board is extremely difficult and expensive!  I did find a nugget of hope though. PTS (800-844-7871) will repair your DM board for $175.00+shipping.  I asked what this $175 covers and they said they will repair the board as long as it does not have damage caused by liquid or burns. Now the question is--am I sure it is the DM board? HTH!

wow .. considering i find that if your unable to fix the board yourself ....... service techs want $650 to come out and repair the board ........... sounds like a good price to me .. i paid 350 yesterday for the IC and 2 .. 5 amp pico fuses .............  didn't find this board till today .. lol .......... owell, up and running here

hellfish
hellfish's picture
Larry,

Larry,

What advice do you have concerning the DM board.  I will check the voltages coming from the power supply (since it seems unusually cool).  Any other suggestions?

Thanks!

hellfish
hellfish's picture
All,

All,

I was thinking about investing in a good DMM.  I was looking at the ExTech 520 or the ExTech 470.  Which do you recommend.  They run about $130+/-.  Gotta be better then the $20 DMM I am using right now.  Seeing on how I am going to delve deeper into this set I thought I might get a better DMM.

Thanks!

Larry Dillon
Larry Dillon's picture
The 520 I have not seen, but

The 520 I have not seen, but i have heard it out performs some of the top makes and brands of DMM's

hellfish
hellfish's picture
I just don't know what is

I just don't know what is more important.  The 470 can only rate caps to 100uf but it has an IR thermometer, the 520 does 1000uf caps but has a corded temp sensor.  Price is very close.

Curt1950
Curt1950's picture
Ya know .. wish I.d of paid

Ya know .. wish I.d of paid more attention ..   ( do know my paying a tech to get my set up and runnin' same day is better than all this time tryin' to fix it ) ........................  as my tech told me name of database he subscribes to that names OEM / Model / problem and fix ............... 

 I asked him, what did you do .. decide one night you wanted to repair big screens and sat down with a manual and schematic ........ and he said no .......  I just subscribe to this database of problems and fixes ..............  he punches in oem, model and looks for problem you called him about .............. and walla .........

don909
don909's picture
I have a WD-62725 with a

I have a WD-62725 with a problem slightly different from most postings I have seen. When I turn it on it powers up ok but automatically goes to a checkered pattern screen. the pattern has small rectangular checkers on it that alternate light blue and dark blue. I can not get any of the menus to display through the checkers. When I switch input devices it goes blank for a second and then returns to the checkered pattern. There are no error or flashing lights at all. When I hold down the menu and device buttons for a diagnostic check the code I get id 1-2......"no errors detected". Does anyone have suggestions of what to check? Could this be a DM board with bad caps minus the blinking green light? Any help is appreciated.

Thank you

Larry Dillon
Larry Dillon's picture
Don, I have never seen your

Don, I have never seen your problem. I doubt if the DM board is bad,. It could be the digital processor board or maybe the power supply. Good Luck

don909
don909's picture
Thanks Larry

Thanks Larry

I posted in another thread and found it is likely a FMT board

"MOtvGuy
Moderator
Today at 11:59 PM
IIRC, that honeycomb pattern is due to a bad FMT board. "

I also found two other instances of this on another forum so I'm ready to head down that route.

Any idea how to get a new FMT board? I have the service manual and have taken the electrical chassi out. Just need a new board if it is possible to get.
Don

hellfish
hellfish's picture
All,

All,

I am about to test the power on my power board.  My question is this.  I see the test areas on the board on the "cold" side.  Where do I find the ground for the cold side?  I found the ground on the Hot side.

Use the link below to see the power board for my mits 62525.

http://www.zorola.com/mits/PowerBoard62525.JPG

Any ideas where to find this ground?

Larry Dillon
Larry Dillon's picture
Don, there should be a part

Don, there should be a part number in the service manual you have for the FMT board. Good guess on the board though. Good Luck

Larry Dillon
Larry Dillon's picture
mzorola, this is really where

mzorola, this is really where experience comes to play. Any capacitor's negitige terminal in that SAME circuit should be fine, but look at the scematic first to be sure!

don909
don909's picture
Larry,The part number is

Larry,
The part number is 930B924003 but I have heard rumblings that Mits will only sell to technicians....any truth to that? I have found no sources for that part number on the internet which I thought was odd.

Thanks again.

hellfish
hellfish's picture
Don909,

Don909,

Have you tried calling PTS?  They fix boards for a flat rate of $175 and sell boards as well.  They had a DM board in stock for sale.  The number is on this thread.

Larry Dillon
Larry Dillon's picture
Don, this is true but go to

Don, this is true but go to ptscorp.com, look up the telephone number(toll free) and ask them for the info. Good Luck

hellfish
hellfish's picture
Larry, Anyone,

Larry, Anyone,

I was looking over the power board and everything looks pretty good.  I did identify about 6 caps that are kinda puffy--not blown but just a little bulged on the top in the areas betwen the scored lines.

I did notice something irregular.  There are about 8 components that look the same.  They are:

C9A10 189P185090 C-CER - AC250V E2200P-M

I don't know what they are and how to test them.  Two of the eight are discolored.  Their jacket (they have a soft plastic cover) are brown/burned looking.  You can see them in the picture I posted at http://www.zorola.com/mits/PowerBoard62525.JPG -- look at about the 7:00 position and you will see the components right above the large cap but below some blue components.

Any advice?  What is that component?

hellfish
hellfish's picture
In reference to the part I

In reference to the part I listed above--I think it is a ceramic capacitor.  2200pf AC250V.  What I don't know is what does the -M stand for?

Anyone out there confirm my guess?  Anyone know what that -M stands for?

Larry Dillon
Larry Dillon's picture
Those blue components are

Those blue components are called resistors, and the capacitors you are referring to are ceramic capacitors. Those usually do get discolored but I highly doubt if they are bad. These capacitors most of the time go across the Diodes to stop spikes and noise on the DC lines. Have you tried calling PTScorp.com and see if they will rebuild this board for you? Go to their website and get the toll free telephone number.

hellfish
hellfish's picture
FYI:

FYI:

Here are the components available at PTSCORP for the Mits 62525 DLP TV.

Item Line Brand Chassis Description Model OEM Status
939P978010 73MI MITSUBISHI   PWB-PWR LAMP RMD WD62525 939P978010 AVA
935D776001 73MI MITSUBISHI   PWB-CONTROL WD62525 935D776001 AVA
935D775001 73MI MITSUBISHI   PWB-FRONT WD62525 935D775001 AVA
935D774001 73MI MITSUBISHI   PWB-PREAMP WD62525 935D774001 AVA
934C121001 73MI MITSUBISHI   PWB-E2P WD62525 934C121001 AVA
934C118001 73MI MITSUBISHI   PWB-TERMINAL 2 WD62525 934C118001 AVA
934C117001 73MI MITSUBISHI   PWB-TERMINAL 1 WD62525 934C117001 AVA
934C116002 73MI MITSUBISHI   PWB-DM WD62525 934C116002 AVA
930B924002 73MI MITSUBISHI   PWB-FMT WD62525 930B924002 AVA
930B923002 73MI MITSUBISHI   PWB-SIGNAL WD62525 930B923002 AVA
930B921002 73MI MITSUBISHI   PWB-POWER WD62525 930B921002 AVA

Larry Dillon
Larry Dillon's picture
The power board is the one

The power board is the one you are showing in the picture. It could be the only trouble, but call ptscorp and ask them what type of charge is it to exchange the board and if they can tesy your board to make sure it is bad, and for how much.

hellfish
hellfish's picture
Called PTS today.  The power

Called PTS today.  The power board is a flat rate of $92 or so to repair.  DM Board is flate rate of $175 to repair.  No exchanges are available.  If the board is OK and no repairs are required there is a $50 bench fee.

Not a bad deal.  I will send in both the DM and Power board.

I'll keep you'all posted on how it goes.

PS.  To add to this tragedy--my 2 year old found a sharpie and wrote all over the front, sides, and back of the Mits!  I hope I can get it off of the front shield!

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