Mitsubishi convergence IC's used in the differant models

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Larry Dillon
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I do not have that model of

I do not have that model of service manual.

eric claxton
eric claxton's picture
i am having convergance

i am having convergance problems on my ws 55809 is there a place u know tht will sell a repair kit for this prob thanks

jess31
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Larry, I have a Mitsubishi WS

Larry, I have a Mitsubishi WS-A65. Occasionally while watching, it will turn itself off. It will not power up for several minutes after this happens. Any suggestions?

Steve P
Steve P's picture
jess31 said: Larry, I have a

jess31 said: Larry, I have a Mitsubishi WS-A65. Occasionally while watching, it will turn itself off. It will not power up for several minutes after this happens. Any suggestions?

I also noticed an intermitent picture power cycle on my 50501, I took the front TV cover off and I found out that When the power don occured and I toggled the far left lamp feed wires that the picture came back on. On mine the Green power light always stayed on, even when the picture went out.

jess31
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The green power light goes of

The green power light goes of when my set does this

tagh
tagh's picture
I have WS-65311 but the same

I have WS-65311 but the same 2-2 error problem. I checked the fuses and notice only the 5 AMP F9A05 is open. I looked for the fuse here locally in Phoenix but all I could find was 4 AMP Littlefuse Pico II fast acting from FRY's Electronic. I paralleled one with the bad one of the board (with the help of couple of clips) and turned the TV on and it worked. After an hour, I tried to check the on and off switch so turned it off and then turned it again but it didn’t power up again.
I checked the fuse, was ok, I checked the other fuses, they all were alright. I touched the sink and was hot (both end, so both ICs were good). I checked the error code it was still 2-2. I let the sink cool down and tried the set half an hour later, no luck. I unplugged the TV and left it over night and plugged it in this morning and gave it a shot. It powered up. I turned it off and on couple of times, no problem.
Looks like when the sink is hot and then I turn the set off, it doesn’t turn on again unless I leave it for long time (unplugged). What do you suggest would be the problem?
Appreciate your comment.
Matt

tagh
tagh's picture
Hi

Hi
I have WS-65311 but the same 2-2 error problem. I checked the fuses and notice only the 5 AMP F9A05 is open. I looked for the fuse here locally in Phoenix but all I could find was 4 AMP Littlefuse Pico II fast acting from FRY's Electronic. I paralleled one with the bad one of the board (with the help of couple of clips) and turned the TV on and it worked. After an hour, I tried to check the on and off switch so turned it off and then turned it again but it didn’t power up again.
I checked the fuse, was ok, I checked the other fuses, they all were alright. I touched the sink and was hot (both end, so both ICs were good). I checked the error code it was still 2-2. I let the sink cool down and tried the set half an hour later, no luck. I unplugged the TV and left it over night and plugged it in this morning and gave it a shot. It powered up. I turned it off and on couple of times, no problem.
Looks like when the sink is hot and then I turn the set off, it doesn’t turn on again unless I leave it for long time (unplugged). What do you suggest would be the problem?
Appreciate your comment.
Matt

tagh
tagh's picture
Hi

Hi
I have WS-65311 but the same 2-2 error problem. I checked the fuses and notice only the 5 AMP F9A05 is open. I looked for the fuse here locally in Phoenix but all I could find was 4 AMP Littlefuse Pico II fast acting from FRY's Electronic. I paralleled one with the bad one of the board (with the help of couple of clips) and turned the TV on and it worked. After an hour, I tried to check the on and off switch so turned it off and then turned it again but it didn’t power up again.
I checked the fuse, was ok, I checked the other fuses, they all were alright. I touched the sink and was hot (both end, so both ICs were good). I checked the error code it was still 2-2. I let the sink cool down and tried the set half an hour later, no luck. I unplugged the TV and left it over night and plugged it in this morning and gave it a shot. It powered up. I turned it off and on couple of times, no problem.
Looks like when the sink is hot and then I turn the set off, it doesn’t turn on again unless I leave it for long time (unplugged). What do you suggest would be the problem?
Appreciate your comment.
Matt

Larry Dillon
Larry Dillon's picture
HOPE you did not cause any

HOPE you did not cause any more damage!!If you had read part of these threads you would know NEVER replace F9A04 or F9A05 untill you replace the convergence IC"S
GOOD LUCK Man

tagh
tagh's picture
Thank you Larry for your

Thank you Larry for your reply. I was watching a movie before receiving your email, so I turned it off to go for changing the IC. Do you suggest both ICs changed or just IC8C01 and STK392-110 or STK392-115?
Thanks
Matt

tagh
tagh's picture
Also Larry, do I need to

Also Larry, do I need to change the F9A04 fuse too although it's good (the multimeter bips to be continued)?
And where do you suggest to purchase? Is http://www.electronic-repair-kits.com/PICO%20FUSE.html a good place? But I don't see they have 10 AMP fuse F9A04 if I have to change that too (they have upto 7 AMP and mine on the board written 10 AMP).
Thanks
Matt

Larry Dillon
Larry Dillon's picture
If the fuse measures good,

If the fuse measures good, why change it? F9A04 AND F9A05 are 5 amp fast blow. I order mine from here http://www.bluestar-online.com/5_AMP_PICO_p/5%20amp%20pico%20fuse.htm

Larry Dillon
Larry Dillon's picture
UNless you want to re

UNless you want to re-engineer all the resistors in the circuit change it out with whats in there now!!! but do not forget the new heat sink compound on the back of the new IC's before you install them. Leave an e-mail there is something you should do also before you close up the set.

tagh
tagh's picture
Well, ok, it's written 125V

Well, ok, it's written 125V 10A on my board for F9A04 and for F9A02 and 125V 5A for F9A05 and F9A03, but if I don't have to change the F9A04 then I don't really care anymore what AMP it exactly is.
I just read it some where that using STK-150 instead would be better so wanted to get your openion on that. But no, just STK-110.
The website you metioned above looks like just have the fuses (I don't see the ICs there), besides, do you suggest I change both ICs or just the IC8C01?
I really appriciate your technical info.
Thanks
Matt

Larry Dillon
Larry Dillon's picture
Matt, YES, I read the same

Matt, YES, I read the same thing but Iam not an engineer and Mitsubishi spent hundreds og thousands of bucks designing this tv set and how long did it lasted the first time? why mess with something you know works just fine. now in a pinch like if They were out of stock for a period of time, I would use the sub replacement, but I ALWAYS use what comes out goes back in. Use one site to get the fuses and the repair kit site I gave you for the IC's

TexasJohn
TexasJohn's picture
Larry,

Larry,
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience with all of us. My WS-65511 has failed for the third time (First at 4 1/2 years old, + 2 weeks, now dead again at 5 1/2 years old). Press power on, light blinks for a few seconds, then goes out, set dead. I watched the tech replace the IC STK393-110 all 3 times before so figure it is same problem and am planning to replace it myself. Assuming failures are heat related, have you heard of anyone rigging a fan on the heatsink (like PC's use)? Any other comments or warnings?
Thanks again.

TexasJohn
TexasJohn's picture
Larry - I noticed the

Larry - I noticed the resistors R8C05 etc. - the 12 you mentioned that are 3.9 ohms 2 Watt Flameproof Metal 5% tolerance - are not listed in the Service Manual Parts Section. I thought it odd they would leave that part out. I found them on the schematics in SM part 2 which is very hard to read.
Best regards. John

Larry Dillon
Larry Dillon's picture
John, in the parts list I

John, in the parts list I think they are listed R805 etc,etc

TexasJohn
TexasJohn's picture
Larry,

Larry,
On my WS-65511, something is holding the chassis in besides the locks on each side. I removed the one screw (a) near center of back of board, but something is still holding it. Loose (slides) on right now, but seems to be something holding it on left (facing rear of set). Board will almost pivot at a point about 1 inch in from left side (between main chassis and HD tuner section (vertical board about 2 inches wide and 12 inches high).
Peering down, I see a screw head about this point but have not removed it as it is not identified in instructions or service manual. Does not feel like a short cable situation. Any recommendations?

Also, assuming failures are heat related, have you heard of anyone rigging a fan on the heatsink (like PC's use) or a peltier type cooler for the IC that fails?
Or a fan inside the cabinet somewhere?
Any other comments or warnings?
Thanks again.
John

Larry Dillon
Larry Dillon's picture
John , Look on page 22 of th

John , Look on page 22 of th service manual There ARE LEFT AND RIGHT CHASSIS LOCKS you take off also look on the boards there are a couple of screws to remove also.

TexasJohn
TexasJohn's picture
Larry,

Larry,
Thanks, but I know of the left chassis lock - it is not the problem. Screw C looks horizontal in SM; it attaches to some sort of flat cable, with a plate behind it. Maybe I will remove it to see what happens.
And go after the vertical screw behind it down low.
I admit one of them is likely the problem.

Any thoughts on the fan or cooling question?

Best regards,
John

Larry Dillon
Larry Dillon's picture
you can add a fan if you like

you can add a fan if you like but use a 12 volt fan and attach a 6 v dc power pack to it so it does not run at full speed. it will work fine and might help the ic's keep a little less hot so they might last a bit longer.

Daffy
Daffy's picture
I HAVE A MITSBISHI 55' REAR

I HAVE A MITSBISHI 55' REAR PROJECTION TV AND IM STARTING TO HAVE COLOR PROBLEMS MY SPIDER MAN RED IS LIKE MEDIUM BROWN MY GRASS ON THE BASEBALL FIELD IS NOT GREEN MORE LIKE DIRT COLOR. I REST THE CONVERGENCE TO FACTORY SETTINGS AND THIS DID NOTHING FOR ME THE PICTURE QUALITY IS GREAT STILL GREAT HD PICTURE JUST MY COLORS IS NOT RIGHT.. PLEASE HELP

Larry Dillon
Larry Dillon's picture
have you tried to take off

have you tried to take off the front screen and clean the mirrors and lens, or you might need to touch up the grey scale of the RGB drivers it is all explained in the service annual but I will need an e-mail address, and model numnrt

krisk71
krisk71's picture
I have a Mitsubishi WT-A42

I have a Mitsubishi WT-A42 with convergence problems. I have been reading everything here and I have the part numbers but I don't know where the IC's are on the circuit board or which circuit board it is. Can you please let me know? [email protected]

Larry Dillon
Larry Dillon's picture
they are mounted on the other

they are mounted on the other side of the large metal heat sink with the fins on it.I will send you all this info to your e-mail!

TexasJohn
TexasJohn's picture
Larry,

Larry,
I am writing up some notes about removing the Power Printed Circuit Board (PCB) from the set. My TV is a WS-65511 with V21 chassis.
Would it be helpful to send them to you if I do. E.g. From the REAR of the set, remove the ribbon connectors that connect the power PCB to the Terminal PCB on the left and the Main PCB on the right.
These connectors plug into the other PCBs, and have tiny ears to aid in lifting them up to disconnect them (on the other PCBs). 1 Left rear, 1 left front, 1 right front, 1 right center. Remove 2 wire connector xxx (not looking at the board at the moment) on right near rear. Remove 2 screws holding the metal cage on left center. Remove 3 screws holding large heat sink center towards front (screws are on front side of heat sink so hard to see). Etc.
I would need an email address to do so, or write me at john_sullivan -at- BMC.com so I can reply with a word doc when I finish my notes. My parts have not yet arrived, so I am spending time getting ready.

Nevarre44
Nevarre44's picture
Larry, I have a Mitsubishi vs

Larry, I have a Mitsubishi vs-45605, and I can turn it on and it will be fine until it warms up, and then it has horizontal lines going from top of the screen to the bottom. There is still a picture, but of course you cant watch it with the lines. The picture is kind of jumpy though. I know this problem has probably been addressed already, but I can't find the "exact" fix for it. I heard I could put a fan on it, so I set a fan behind the tv to see if it would prevent/stop the lines, and it did. Pictures would help me a lot on the fix too. I hope that helps, and any help would be appreciated. My email address is [email protected]

RansRods
RansRods's picture
Larry,

Larry,

I have a ws-65857 and every once in a while in the past year when its turn on usually cold the picture is convex fishbowl like and after a few minutes it will go away and perfect picture. What do you think the problem might be?

Thanks very much for your time,

RandRods

RansRods
RansRods's picture
Larry Dillon said: GOT AN E

Larry Dillon said: GOT AN E-MAIL ADDRESS?

Larry,

Email is [email protected]

 

Thanks

 

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